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08-28-2009, 08:02 PM
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#161
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfear13
^^Interesting, I had similar results, of playing for a while with the side being cut off, and then it would turn on by it self, but only until I hit the next bump on the road, worked only for a few seconds.
Trying to order the ribbon cable from Pac Parts: IBBON CABLE, 45P (J101 TO J1) Part Number: 039195701
The price of the cable is $4.88 and the shipping is $11.50 lol (shipping sucks!)
Going to be doing this fix as soon as the new ribbon cable arrives, will definitely post feed back (so far everyone has positive responses, which is great). Really hope I wont have to solder anything, although it doesn't seem difficult.
Just one question: How hard was it to removing the HU from the center console and a few steps after that? Any special tools needed? (except for a wide range of small Philips drivers)
Thanks to everything in this thread, you guys are awesome!
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I'm guessing you got the part number from here?
http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/BoseFix.htm
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08-29-2009, 02:11 PM
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#162
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1
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Is there anyone in the NYC area that would be interested in doing this for a fee? I'm totally gonna break something trying this myself.
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08-30-2009, 10:18 AM
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#163
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlappyWhite
Is there anyone in the NYC area that would be interested in doing this for a fee? I'm totally gonna break something trying this myself.
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I'm in NYC, and if I do mine successfully, I'll try to help you out.
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09-08-2009, 05:58 AM
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#164
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfear13
I'm in NYC, and if I do mine successfully, I'll try to help you out.
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Can't wait to hear the outcome of your work. 
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10-02-2009, 06:49 PM
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#165
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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Hey, finally got around to do the fix, everything worked out great, no more cut out.
I've simply replaced the ribbon cable with a new one, and the cd player along with everything else is working as it should.
The whole fix took about 2.5 hours, including taking out the HU from the car. Getting the mounting brackets off was tough; I had the proper Philips but was only able to take out 1 screw out of 8. So I reached for the drill, using the same size Philips bit, I was able to get them off in seconds. No soldering was needed, just took out the side daughter board by removing its 3 mounting screws and the whole cd assembly comes apart. The rubber dampers was quite difficult to put back on, I've used the q-tip with some soapy water, didnt take more than 5 minutes.
So far so good, thanks to Chris's awesome write up and IMJD's side board info for no soldering, and everyone who contributed to the fix.
I am located in brooklyn and if anyone needs some help with the left speaker cut out, shoot me a PM and I'll help you out.
Thanks
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10-12-2009, 10:35 AM
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#166
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3
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I pulled the unit out of the dash yesterday and then ran into a wall on the very first step of the fix. Those screws holding the audio units to the metal placeholders just will not come out of the sides. Anyone else have this problem and figure a way around it? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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10-12-2009, 10:47 AM
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#167
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjhz77
I pulled the unit out of the dash yesterday and then ran into a wall on the very first step of the fix. Those screws holding the audio units to the metal placeholders just will not come out of the sides. Anyone else have this problem and figure a way around it? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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Yea man, make sure you don't strip them. I used a drill with a Philips tip. I put the unit on the floor and pressed down on the drill as hard as I could, press the button slowly to keep the rpm low and it will come out easy. Once I used the drill, it took seconds to get them all out.
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10-12-2009, 12:01 PM
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#168
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfear13
Yea man, make sure you don't strip them. I used a drill with a Philips tip. I put the unit on the floor and pressed down on the drill as hard as I could, press the button slowly to keep the rpm low and it will come out easy. Once I used the drill, it took seconds to get them all out.
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-I used a ratchet. worked like a charm.
__________________
Performance Mods
| Cattman Headers | Cattman 3" Catback | Fastcat | JWT Pop-Charger | NWP Spacers |
| 350z Injectors | Transgo HD-2 & DR Mod| BC Racing Coilovers |
"These pretzels are makin' me thirsty"
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10-13-2009, 05:38 AM
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#169
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjhz77
I pulled the unit out of the dash yesterday and then ran into a wall on the very first step of the fix. Those screws holding the audio units to the metal placeholders just will not come out of the sides. Anyone else have this problem and figure a way around it? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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I read that is the hardest part of the repair. A few guys went to Home Depot and picked up a T handle screwdriver for more torque. I woud try a drill or a ratchet with the phillips head bit first to save a trip to the store.
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10-13-2009, 05:39 AM
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#170
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfear13
Hey, finally got around to do the fix, everything worked out great, no more cut out.
I've simply replaced the ribbon cable with a new one, and the cd player along with everything else is working as it should.
The whole fix took about 2.5 hours, including taking out the HU from the car. Getting the mounting brackets off was tough; I had the proper Philips but was only able to take out 1 screw out of 8. So I reached for the drill, using the same size Philips bit, I was able to get them off in seconds. No soldering was needed, just took out the side daughter board by removing its 3 mounting screws and the whole cd assembly comes apart. The rubber dampers was quite difficult to put back on, I've used the q-tip with some soapy water, didnt take more than 5 minutes.
So far so good, thanks to Chris's awesome write up and IMJD's side board info for no soldering, and everyone who contributed to the fix.
I am located in brooklyn and if anyone needs some help with the left speaker cut out, shoot me a PM and I'll help you out.
Thanks
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Thanks for the write up. Did the replacement ribbon cable feel any different than the original? Thicker and sturdier?
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10-13-2009, 06:44 PM
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#171
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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It fit nice and snug, solid fitment. The cable is Clarion and one to one in appearance with the original.
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10-13-2009, 07:29 PM
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#172
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfear13
It fit nice and snug, solid fitment. The cable is Clarion and one to one in appearance with the original.
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Thanks. I plan on doing it this weekend and reusing the old one like the others but may swap it out in the spring for a new one if it acts up again over the winter.
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10-13-2009, 08:57 PM
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#173
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Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TallTom
I read that is the hardest part of the repair. A few guys went to Home Depot and picked up a T handle screwdriver for more torque. I woud try a drill or a ratchet with the phillips head bit first to save a trip to the store.
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I tried this over the weekend and failed.
First I tried a regular screw driver, no go. Then onto a ratchet with a phillips head. I actually chipped the phillips head. It was made by Husky too. Not some no name brand. I tried the tightening and loosening method as well. No go!! At this point, I was genuinely pissed off, and decided to drill through them. My drill bit broke upon impact with the screw. WTF....
Its weird though because the two screws holding the automatic climate control were easy to screw off. Only the 4 holding the stereo with a biatch.
I guess 7+ years of being tightly screwed did them in for good.... 
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10-14-2009, 08:11 PM
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#174
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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The 2 screws holding the climate control are screwed into plastic groves, whereas the HU is metal on metal =/ There was only one screw that I had to Tighten and then unscrew with the drill, the rest came out butter.
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10-21-2009, 10:57 AM
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#175
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3
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I finally got the screws out using an impact driver and proceeded through the whole fix. Everything went well until I plugged the unit back in and tested it. No lights, no sound, nothing. (The AC unit works fine) I tried all buttons, etc... and got no reaction from the audio unit.
Is there a fuse that may have blown since I accidentally plugged it in with battery connected? Otherwise, I am assuming I'm up a creek without a paddle here.
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10-25-2009, 06:56 PM
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#176
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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Oh man thats not cool. Are you sure you did everything correctly assembly wise and didnt ruin anything inside? I'm trying to think where you went wrong, for me the tedious part was the daughter on the side, those 2 screws that are kinda hard to get to but I have all the tools so it wasnt all that bad. I'm not sure what you did wrong, I didnt unplug the battery when I removed or installed the unit, I also drove the car without it.
I dont know what to tell you man, you can go back inside and see if you missed anything or take the car to the dealer and say power went out but dont mention that you opened it up and everthing. =[
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10-26-2009, 08:43 AM
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#177
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Leavenworth, KS
Posts: 1,083
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Well it was fun while it lasted but I'm sorry to say that my cd is cutting out again. I first did the fix in Dec of 07 and now 22 months later the same problem has returned. I fixed it with a brand new ribbon and since it only lasted just short of 2 yrs I guess I'm gonna go aftermarket.
__________________
2010 SV, Premium/Tech pkg in Crimson Black, 51,600 miles - dual panel roof - rear spoiler- backup camera- power rear sunshade - billet oil cap - 9.3 GB Music Box - Bluetooth - iPod control - paddle shifters- NAV w/touchscreen - rain sensing wipers - Sirius XM radio - steering wheel controls - Racingline strut bar...more 2 come: visit my site www.cardomain.com/ride/4024807/2010-nissan-maxima-sv Also in the stable: 69 Mercury Cougar - cruiser, showcar, donut maker
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10-26-2009, 10:19 AM
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#178
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SE PA
Posts: 2,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxgig
Well it was fun while it lasted but I'm sorry to say that my cd is cutting out again. I first did the fix in Dec of 07 and now 22 months later the same problem has returned. I fixed it with a brand new ribbon and since it only lasted just short of 2 yrs I guess I'm gonna go aftermarket.
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This feedback is very important and interesting.! Thanks Maxgig. As I allways wondered if there was a life to this fix and if it would reappear later.
Once again I would like to point out in my car on long trip a solid connection is typically established.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prophecy99
I havent gotten around to doing this. I kinda got used to it over time.. as it is just cds anyway. I am thankful these things have the tapes though!
Note: I have noticed during long trips.... the electrons build up enough at the broken connections to find a way to bridge the gap and actually create a full connection! and 30mins into a trip and the cutouts are eliminated. I had tested it a few times now.
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__________________
02 VQ35DE GLE__-_\:._.:/_-___sold_91 VG30E GXE
[FSTB /H&R /Illuminas /LTB Stage II /5mm+23mm Spacers /6th Gen BBK /NWP Intake Spacers /17° Timing /Hayden 404 ATC /Blehmco Grounding Kit /Stillen F/R Lips /18" Exel RH-5 Gunmetal /Smoked Sides /30% /Taillight Vinyls /Eyelids /PIAA]= DONE
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10-26-2009, 12:22 PM
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#179
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11
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Thanks for this procedure, did it this week-end and it it sounds great, no more cut out. Besides not only was my cd playing only on the right side, the quality was so bad you could baery hear anything other than noise (somehow the radio worked well on all speakers...). Now the CD sound quality is amazing, so thanks again for the write-up!
I also soldered a TRS connector (3 wires only, right, left and Ground) as on the picture below (altough he has more than 3 wires) in hope to use my mp3 player using the tape player, did anyone try this out, I can't get the thing to play, pressing the tape button while the mp3 plays does nothing.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiforums
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11-09-2009, 12:50 AM
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#180
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Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 97
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I have 2002 I35 with a Bose stereo and I'm experiencing the same CD cutting out/skipping issue as most people with the same stereo unit. From reading the posts above, it seems that a loose ribbon is responsible for the annoying CD skipping issue that i am experiencing. I am just wondering if it's possible to use liquid tape stuff to secure the ribbon in place so it will not wiggle or come loose thus causing the annoying CD skipping issue.
Is this ribbon also responsible for the sub woofer cutout problem too? Or is it a completely another problem?
Thanks!
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11-09-2009, 07:37 AM
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#181
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Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Brooklyn / Long Island
Posts: 209
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the ribbon cable is not loose at all, its pinned dowm tight. The connection is worn out because its pinned hard, your best bet for the cut out is to reset it or replace the cable
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11-09-2009, 08:06 AM
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#182
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: CornLand
Posts: 1,622
Points: 11,425, Level: 70 |
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I just bought a cheapo tape adapter with headphone jack, and use that with my mp3 player.
The audio quality isn't great, but it works good enuff for me. 
I pulled the dash apart, and ran the wire under the console and up thru the cupholder, so it stows away when I'm out of the car.
Now if someone could come-up with a fix for the 5.5gen subwoofer....I could actually tolerate the mediocre sound quality of my Blose Stereo!!
gr
__________________
"As with the Christian religion, the worst advertisement for Socialism is its adherents". ~George Orwell
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04-25-2010, 08:36 AM
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#183
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,769
Points: 11,404, Level: 70 |
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12-29-2010, 01:28 PM
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#184
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Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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My Repair Went to Pieces After a 1 Year & a half or so!
Just checked back in after about FOUR years! Still have the same 2003 Maxima... Car runs GREAT... No problems, No repairs, Never have had it in the shop for ANYTHING!
BUT... The lousy CD player went back to losing the left channel after about a year and a half of working good. Then probably about a year ago or so, CDs starting stopping, skipping, doing all kinds of whacked out stuff, along with the left channel fading in and out!
I'm going to see if I can find a compatible player that I can just switch out, without having to do any rewiring, or having to replace parts.
Luckily, I listen to various radio shows most of the time, BUT... That still SUCKS when I feel like listening to a CD!
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02-20-2012, 03:55 PM
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#185
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Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 35
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Thanks for the great How-To! I have been living by smacking the HU for two years now, and I finally gave up. I followed your instructions and everything was like butter! It took me an hour and a half, and it gave me a chance to clean the lens in the process! My 100K Maxima is back to 100%!!!! Thank you so much!!!
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04-04-2012, 03:42 PM
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#186
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Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4
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Hi is there anyone in Southeast Florida that did this fix and will like to do it again? I'm willing to pay for it. Email me at mannytavarez@hotmail.com
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12-13-2012, 05:47 PM
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#187
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Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 11
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ha ive been looking trough this... my 2002 se is having cutout problems but I'm not sure if I wanna replace this ribbon thing on the board wouldn't it just be better to throw in a double DIN touch screen?
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12-13-2012, 06:05 PM
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#188
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 703
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I certainly think so. It's not for everyone though.

__________________
2002 SE: NWP BOP, NWP 5pc IM Spacers, JWT Pop Charger w/R2C Filter, JWT Alminum Flywheel, JWT Stage 1 Clutch, OBX Headers, Cattman Fast Cat and 3" Cat Back

Malo Periculosam Libertatem Quam Quietum Servitium
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12-16-2012, 09:50 PM
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#189
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Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 11
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I finished the ribbon a couple days ago the hardest part was getting off those dang bracket screws i ended up taking a impact wrench to them just apply ALOT of pressure on that screw or you'll strip them like i did one... wasnt fun to drill that sucker out though 
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12-19-2012, 09:48 AM
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#190
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SE PA
Posts: 2,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusxMaxima
I finished the ribbon a couple days ago the hardest part was getting off those dang bracket screws i ended up taking a impact wrench to them just apply ALOT of pressure on that screw or you'll strip them like i did one... wasnt fun to drill that sucker out though 
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yeah that was the hardest for me also, I ended up buying a corded drill so i could put all the pressure needed to break them free
I have to do this again, since it started back a year later and now I even have CD ERR F3 which no one knows about.
__________________
02 VQ35DE GLE__-_\:._.:/_-___sold_91 VG30E GXE
[FSTB /H&R /Illuminas /LTB Stage II /5mm+23mm Spacers /6th Gen BBK /NWP Intake Spacers /17° Timing /Hayden 404 ATC /Blehmco Grounding Kit /Stillen F/R Lips /18" Exel RH-5 Gunmetal /Smoked Sides /30% /Taillight Vinyls /Eyelids /PIAA]= DONE
(MY CARDOMAIN)Eagles Bleed GREEN
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12-21-2012, 07:21 PM
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#191
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Junior Member

Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 29
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01-10-2013, 11:48 AM
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#192
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Newbie - Just Registered

Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
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can anyone upload or send me the pdf plz,i got this problem too,thanks a lot!
crazyboylukai@yahoo.com.cn
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01-11-2013, 06:09 PM
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#193
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Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 33
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I can't get the link to directly connect. Can someone please forward updated link please?
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01-11-2013, 06:09 PM
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