02-03 Bose 6CD changer Audio cutout fix!!
#81
More info: I still have the audio cutting in and out, kinda like a scratched cd. This happens only when the cd player is being used. The cd player goes back to working normally when the car has been on for a little while. This leaves me to question if the problem of the driver side speakers not working at all to be related to the Bose headunit.
#82
Wrong Cable
The cable finally came in today......
And it is not the freaking cable we need
I won't bore everyone with how pissed I am.
Check out this link if you want pics of the stupid cable that has no use.
http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/Index.html
I will start this conversation up again with Clarion and attempt to get the right part.
As before I will keep everyone posted. (only at my website so I won't spread this thread anymore than it already is.)
And it is not the freaking cable we need
I won't bore everyone with how pissed I am.
Check out this link if you want pics of the stupid cable that has no use.
http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/Index.html
I will start this conversation up again with Clarion and attempt to get the right part.
As before I will keep everyone posted. (only at my website so I won't spread this thread anymore than it already is.)
#83
Originally Posted by gfxhil
Is there a way to set presets with the steering wheel controls? As of now my button 1 is set to the default, I think 87.9, I would like to change it if at all possible.
#84
Originally Posted by 02SilverMax
As before I will keep everyone posted. (only at my website so I won't spread this thread anymore than it already is.)
I'm SO close to buying an aftermarket, it's not even funny - but I'm not in a hurry to have my car broken-into.
Somehow, the BLOSE is cheap insurance in that category -- hmmmm, i wonder why?!!
Thanks for doing this and keeping us all posted!
gr
#85
My HU only cuts out VERY rarely, just like a scratched cd. it's not too often, will this fix solve my problem? I might just purchase the factory extended warranty while I still have the chance-will that cover this problem?
#86
my head unit was so bad, that it not only cut out but the entire left side would cut in/out. i said screw it and went for the upgrade to a high-end mp3 pioneer hu. it's pretty easy - i found instructions online. i had to buy the following:
-steering wheel control adapter
-a resistor to put in line w/ the wiring for my steering wheel control adapter so i can keep 'trip' button
- pac adapter to use the bose speakers/wiring
- internal antenna adapter
- wiring harness
- mounting bracket
all that cost me about $120 when buying from ebay. i bought a scosche (sp?) bracket before, it's a piece of )(*@#$ i had to buy another one last-minute from circuit city. for the steering wheel controls, you have an IR receiver (looks like a little nipple), i had to drill a hole in my bracket and route the receiver through it so it can transmit the signal.
at the end of the day, i ended up w/ a very clean install, and very clean sound, without worrying about if the stupid bose box is going to crap out after fixing it.
-steering wheel control adapter
-a resistor to put in line w/ the wiring for my steering wheel control adapter so i can keep 'trip' button
- pac adapter to use the bose speakers/wiring
- internal antenna adapter
- wiring harness
- mounting bracket
all that cost me about $120 when buying from ebay. i bought a scosche (sp?) bracket before, it's a piece of )(*@#$ i had to buy another one last-minute from circuit city. for the steering wheel controls, you have an IR receiver (looks like a little nipple), i had to drill a hole in my bracket and route the receiver through it so it can transmit the signal.
at the end of the day, i ended up w/ a very clean install, and very clean sound, without worrying about if the stupid bose box is going to crap out after fixing it.
#88
Originally Posted by Sari
There is one thing I would like to add for anyone else who is planning on doing this. When Reinstalling the rubber mounts, I noticed it's a real PITA getting the CD player into the little hole. I mixed soap and warm water and applied it to the mount using a Q-tip being very carefull not to get it anywhere but the mount. This made it much easier to reinstall properly.
#89
Ok, just put everything back in. The good news if that the number 1 button works now. The bad news is that the left speakers still don't work, guess it might not have been HU related. There was a label on the unit that said that it was "remanufactured" and the ribbon on the last circut board had a special piece of tape holding it down. I took a few pics during the attempted fix and can post them later.
Also, my AM/FM tuner doesn't seem to work now. Could that be due to the fact that my battery was disconnected so long? I'm hoping it will start to work again after driving around. Also I lost all of my seat memory settings and the clock is a few hours back. Any other battery related things that I should be aware of?
Also, my AM/FM tuner doesn't seem to work now. Could that be due to the fact that my battery was disconnected so long? I'm hoping it will start to work again after driving around. Also I lost all of my seat memory settings and the clock is a few hours back. Any other battery related things that I should be aware of?
#91
New Cable
I have been spun 180° from the terrible service at Hermans (one month waiting and 8 different dates promised for a part that was on "Backorder")
And have now been helped by the friendly people at Pac Parts that even sent diagrams to ensure I am getting the part I need.
I highly recommend dealing with Pac Parts, service was incredible
Don't waste you time, (I already did) just don't bother with Hermans
So with me off my soapbox, the correct part number (for the PN2432DA) is 039-1957-01 and Clarion has over 4000 in stock so shouldn't hear any "Backorder" crap.
The cable runs around $4.
Here is one of the diagrams they sent to confirm the part.
There was no updated part number from Clarion so it must be the same cable. (no improvements)
Since the cable has not been improved, I really recommend cutting out the side panel like I show on my site if you don't want to be going back in to fix it again.
I believe this closes this issue for me. If something changes I will update, if not.....
Good luck to all attempting this fix.
PEACE
And have now been helped by the friendly people at Pac Parts that even sent diagrams to ensure I am getting the part I need.
I highly recommend dealing with Pac Parts, service was incredible
Don't waste you time, (I already did) just don't bother with Hermans
So with me off my soapbox, the correct part number (for the PN2432DA) is 039-1957-01 and Clarion has over 4000 in stock so shouldn't hear any "Backorder" crap.
The cable runs around $4.
Here is one of the diagrams they sent to confirm the part.
There was no updated part number from Clarion so it must be the same cable. (no improvements)
Since the cable has not been improved, I really recommend cutting out the side panel like I show on my site if you don't want to be going back in to fix it again.
I believe this closes this issue for me. If something changes I will update, if not.....
Good luck to all attempting this fix.
PEACE
#94
Thanks for all the good info!!
I followed all the instructions and it's FIXED!! BOY, does it sound good now! The left channel was going out and sounded really muffled now it sounds FANTASTIC! It almost seems like even the rest of the stereo has a better connection, I don't know if it's my imagination or not, it sure seems like everything sounds better now!
That ribbon connector in mine was only inserted about 1/3 of the way on each end, which means 70% of it wasn't even on the contacts on BOTH ends! I wasn't sure what would happen if I pushed it all the way in, since it was said that you should leave it partly exposed. I pushed it in 90% of the way and left about 10% exposed.
I thought about cutting part of it out like suggested, but after looking it over, it didn't seem like the ribbon would be affected where it was so I decided not to do it.
I had a HELL of a time with those screws on the harness that holds the heating/cooling unit and stereo!! I couldn't budge them! I wasn't sure how to go about it using a ratchet, but rigged up a perfectly fitting phillips head with my vice grips for leverage and STILL couldn't move ANY of them! Then I thought if I had an impact screwdriver that might break them loose, so I headed to the store to get one before I stripped one them and would have REALLY been pissed!
I got it and it worked GREAT!! So if you can't budge them, get an impact screwdriver, it'll do the trick! It even took me 6-8 whacks just to get them moving!! MY GOD... What did they put those things in with anyways!?
Also... I didn't need a soldering iron for anything!! I found the 3 screws that imjd mentioned and that did the trick! Thanks!
It took me about 5 hours, which includes going to the store to get the impact screwdriver, having to reassemble parts of the stereo because I SKIPPED the "MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE CDS!!" HOLY CRAP!!! I couldn't believe that! Finally got them ejected. I almost wonder if you even have to eject them, because when I got down to the crucial area, it almost seemed like it wouldn't have made a difference. I could be wrong... I was starting to lose it after all those minor setbacks! That wasn't bad considering I had no idea what I was getting into, no repair training, and I rarely play with electronics. I only do it when it's mostly mechanical and don't have to worry about checking the electrical currents.
But bottom line... Good instructions, good tips, and thanks to everyone who figured all this stuff out! BIG THANKS to ESPECIALLY CHRIS!! And also thanks to imjd and sari, who saved me a LOT of hassle and time! Those damn little rubber cushions would've DEFINITELY been a B*tch without the soap and water!
That ribbon connector in mine was only inserted about 1/3 of the way on each end, which means 70% of it wasn't even on the contacts on BOTH ends! I wasn't sure what would happen if I pushed it all the way in, since it was said that you should leave it partly exposed. I pushed it in 90% of the way and left about 10% exposed.
I thought about cutting part of it out like suggested, but after looking it over, it didn't seem like the ribbon would be affected where it was so I decided not to do it.
I had a HELL of a time with those screws on the harness that holds the heating/cooling unit and stereo!! I couldn't budge them! I wasn't sure how to go about it using a ratchet, but rigged up a perfectly fitting phillips head with my vice grips for leverage and STILL couldn't move ANY of them! Then I thought if I had an impact screwdriver that might break them loose, so I headed to the store to get one before I stripped one them and would have REALLY been pissed!
I got it and it worked GREAT!! So if you can't budge them, get an impact screwdriver, it'll do the trick! It even took me 6-8 whacks just to get them moving!! MY GOD... What did they put those things in with anyways!?
Also... I didn't need a soldering iron for anything!! I found the 3 screws that imjd mentioned and that did the trick! Thanks!
It took me about 5 hours, which includes going to the store to get the impact screwdriver, having to reassemble parts of the stereo because I SKIPPED the "MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE CDS!!" HOLY CRAP!!! I couldn't believe that! Finally got them ejected. I almost wonder if you even have to eject them, because when I got down to the crucial area, it almost seemed like it wouldn't have made a difference. I could be wrong... I was starting to lose it after all those minor setbacks! That wasn't bad considering I had no idea what I was getting into, no repair training, and I rarely play with electronics. I only do it when it's mostly mechanical and don't have to worry about checking the electrical currents.
But bottom line... Good instructions, good tips, and thanks to everyone who figured all this stuff out! BIG THANKS to ESPECIALLY CHRIS!! And also thanks to imjd and sari, who saved me a LOT of hassle and time! Those damn little rubber cushions would've DEFINITELY been a B*tch without the soap and water!
#98
I finally got around to doing this after months of procrastinating. About 2.5 hours start to finish, and it works great !! Thanks much Chris.s
Also want to thank IMJD for the "alternate" method - although I ended up not even messing with the right side Dampers. I was able to tilt the mechanism up enough to reseat the cable without removing the entire assembly.
re: the HVAC/Stero bracket bolts - Start by TIGHTENING the screws a tad first. Seems counterintuitive, but it will break the screw free so you can then loosen them without stripping.
Also want to thank IMJD for the "alternate" method - although I ended up not even messing with the right side Dampers. I was able to tilt the mechanism up enough to reseat the cable without removing the entire assembly.
re: the HVAC/Stero bracket bolts - Start by TIGHTENING the screws a tad first. Seems counterintuitive, but it will break the screw free so you can then loosen them without stripping.
#99
new problem with this BOSE POS
Like most of you, I had the cutting-out problem with the Bose system. I went through 2 units before my waranty ended. Theny I had the do the chris.s fix. It worked- I had sound from the driver's side.
Now I have a new problem. CDs seem to skip like crazy or just stop playing. Funny thing is- it seems to happen on tracks at the beggining and end of CDs, but not on the middle tracks. This happens on any CD, and has nothing to do with scratches. It seems to get better sometimes and then worse, and is NOT associated with hitting bumps or anything. It will happen when the car is just idling.
I am wondering if I somehow messed up the laser alignment... anyone else have this problem (or a solution)?????
Now I have a new problem. CDs seem to skip like crazy or just stop playing. Funny thing is- it seems to happen on tracks at the beggining and end of CDs, but not on the middle tracks. This happens on any CD, and has nothing to do with scratches. It seems to get better sometimes and then worse, and is NOT associated with hitting bumps or anything. It will happen when the car is just idling.
I am wondering if I somehow messed up the laser alignment... anyone else have this problem (or a solution)?????
#100
Originally Posted by gbwillner
Like most of you, I had the cutting-out problem with the Bose system. I went through 2 units before my waranty ended. Theny I had the do the chris.s fix. It worked- I had sound from the driver's side.
Now I have a new problem. CDs seem to skip like crazy or just stop playing. Funny thing is- it seems to happen on tracks at the beggining and end of CDs, but not on the middle tracks. This happens on any CD, and has nothing to do with scratches. It seems to get better sometimes and then worse, and is NOT associated with hitting bumps or anything. It will happen when the car is just idling.
I am wondering if I somehow messed up the laser alignment... anyone else have this problem (or a solution)?????
Now I have a new problem. CDs seem to skip like crazy or just stop playing. Funny thing is- it seems to happen on tracks at the beggining and end of CDs, but not on the middle tracks. This happens on any CD, and has nothing to do with scratches. It seems to get better sometimes and then worse, and is NOT associated with hitting bumps or anything. It will happen when the car is just idling.
I am wondering if I somehow messed up the laser alignment... anyone else have this problem (or a solution)?????
I have some homemade CDs that are not even specifically made for music that are made by Sony that work just fine and have never skipped. Then I have some made by TDK that are supposed to be made for music that DO skip occasionally, so who knows what the difference is.
Most of the time, it doesn't skip so I can live with it.
My CD player is still working GREAT after 9 months, so far so good!
#101
Originally Posted by runningman
It's possible it could be the type of CD you're using, because I've had the same problems with some of the CDs I use, but not the others. It doesn't happen all the time though, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.
I have some homemade CDs that are not even specifically made for music that are made by Sony that work just fine and have never skipped. Then I have some made by TDK that are supposed to be made for music that DO skip occasionally, so who knows what the difference is.
Most of the time, it doesn't skip so I can live with it.
My CD player is still working GREAT after 9 months, so far so good!
I have some homemade CDs that are not even specifically made for music that are made by Sony that work just fine and have never skipped. Then I have some made by TDK that are supposed to be made for music that DO skip occasionally, so who knows what the difference is.
Most of the time, it doesn't skip so I can live with it.
My CD player is still working GREAT after 9 months, so far so good!
Anyone else have a clue?
#102
Hey Guys, im looking to pay someone to fix this for me. I hadnt heard back to a PM i sent to the poster who was offering this service.
I may tackle it myself on a weekend, but im not that good w/ electronics and small parts.
I took a trip this weekend and the radio is at a all time low for sound quality (litterally every bump would change the sound)
Looking for some help to get this permantly fixed.
In the bethlehem/Allentown/Philly/Jersey area of PA if it matters.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.
Or maybei should just try it myself?
Thoughts?
I may tackle it myself on a weekend, but im not that good w/ electronics and small parts.
I took a trip this weekend and the radio is at a all time low for sound quality (litterally every bump would change the sound)
Looking for some help to get this permantly fixed.
In the bethlehem/Allentown/Philly/Jersey area of PA if it matters.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.
Or maybei should just try it myself?
Thoughts?
#103
Originally Posted by psu711
Hey Guys, im looking to pay someone to fix this for me. I hadnt heard back to a PM i sent to the poster who was offering this service.
I may tackle it myself on a weekend, but im not that good w/ electronics and small parts.
I took a trip this weekend and the radio is at a all time low for sound quality (litterally every bump would change the sound)
Looking for some help to get this permantly fixed.
In the bethlehem/Allentown/Philly/Jersey area of PA if it matters.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.
Or maybei should just try it myself?
Thoughts?
I may tackle it myself on a weekend, but im not that good w/ electronics and small parts.
I took a trip this weekend and the radio is at a all time low for sound quality (litterally every bump would change the sound)
Looking for some help to get this permantly fixed.
In the bethlehem/Allentown/Philly/Jersey area of PA if it matters.
Let me know if anyone has any suggestions.
Or maybei should just try it myself?
Thoughts?
But i think this fix only fixes the left speaker cut out.
I am did this on 2 stereo last weekend.
I can do it for you if you want to.
No fix is permanent, the cable will get ruined with time.
I am in CA
PM Me
#104
Originally Posted by Dan5.5
Its not that hard to fix.
But i think this fix only fixes the left speaker cut out.
... ........
No fix is permanent, the cable will get ruined with time.
I am in CA
PM Me
But i think this fix only fixes the left speaker cut out.
... ........
No fix is permanent, the cable will get ruined with time.
I am in CA
PM Me
do a more permanent/infinit job sorta say?
I just want this thing to be fixed for good. (a longer time than what im imagining the do it your self reconnect will do)
#105
Originally Posted by gbwillner
Thanks for responding- it's NOT the type of disk. It happens on burned disks as well as purchased disks. It seems to happen all the time now, but fluctuates on how many tracks will actually play. All CDs will actually play- but some will have more affected tracks than others.
Anyone else have a clue?
Anyone else have a clue?
Let me know if you try the above and have the same results. I'm going to try the instructions shown in this thread to at least remove and re-install the HU to try to tighten up the mounting.
hyper
#106
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,766
This does not only fix left side cut outs.. Mine would cut out the whole system, it would act like the cd was skipping. On warmer days it would just be muffled, as if the treble was turned all the way down. The only problem with the write up is that it leaves out screws you need to take out, doesn't tell you how to put it back together, etc. You must have basic skills to be able to do this but it is not hard at all. The only hard part is removing the initial screws that hold the headunit to the mounting brackets. The best thing to do is to tighten them to break them loose. I still ruined half the screws trying to get them out.
#107
Impact Screwdriver!!
If you want to break loose those screws holding the stereo in the main brackets, get yourself an impact screwdriver! I couldn't budge them until I got one. It works great and you won't mess up your screws!
#108
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,766
That didn't work for me, I had to use a real impact. After I broke about 5 bits I finally got them all out. Plus I didn't like having to bang on the radio so much. I just practically stood on the impact to get as much weight as possible on it, and hit it lightly.. tightening first to break loose.
#109
housecor's service
Just a FYI for some of you who may have been in the same boat as me.
I dealt with the 02 Bose cutout on and off for around 2 years. i bought the car used i couldnt get it covered under a warranty.
I found this thread a while ago but don't do that well with electronics and small parts. I checked out carstereohelp and ebay (people actually do this fix on ebay now, thats how wide spread the problem is). There really wasnt a good solution as far as matching a fair price with a service that seemed trustworthy.
I took a shot with maxima.org member housecor (his post is in this thread on page 2 offering his service). I could not have been more pleased. He had great communication and really made me feel comfortable about mailing my $600 factory HU cross country to a complete stranger.
The results were great. He fixed the HU and had it mailed back to me with 2 days of recieving it. I just got back from a long trip with all of the things that normally messed the HU up (bumps, bends, traintracks, rumblestrips, etc.) The unit is working perfectly.
In no way did he ask me to post this here. I just know how uncomfortable I felt about sending my HU to a stranger and would of felt better had i read something like this. If anyone else is considering paying someone to fix their HU, I had a really good experience with HouseCor. If you have any question, send him a PM.
Best Regards
I dealt with the 02 Bose cutout on and off for around 2 years. i bought the car used i couldnt get it covered under a warranty.
I found this thread a while ago but don't do that well with electronics and small parts. I checked out carstereohelp and ebay (people actually do this fix on ebay now, thats how wide spread the problem is). There really wasnt a good solution as far as matching a fair price with a service that seemed trustworthy.
I took a shot with maxima.org member housecor (his post is in this thread on page 2 offering his service). I could not have been more pleased. He had great communication and really made me feel comfortable about mailing my $600 factory HU cross country to a complete stranger.
The results were great. He fixed the HU and had it mailed back to me with 2 days of recieving it. I just got back from a long trip with all of the things that normally messed the HU up (bumps, bends, traintracks, rumblestrips, etc.) The unit is working perfectly.
In no way did he ask me to post this here. I just know how uncomfortable I felt about sending my HU to a stranger and would of felt better had i read something like this. If anyone else is considering paying someone to fix their HU, I had a really good experience with HouseCor. If you have any question, send him a PM.
Best Regards
#111
Chris.s is a PIMP!!!
Thanks for the write up. I did the fix and it worked great. I found that I didnt have to remove half the bumpers and springs or de-solder by removing the 3 little screws holding the board. But I guess IMJD beat me to that one. I jumped right into the tutorial without reading the whole thread but fortunately I figured out the shortcut.
Oh, and maybe some eye protection when putting the 2 screws back in with the unit upside down. It might suck to lose one of those screws in your eye. I almost found out the hard way.
Thanks again Chris
Thanks for the write up. I did the fix and it worked great. I found that I didnt have to remove half the bumpers and springs or de-solder by removing the 3 little screws holding the board. But I guess IMJD beat me to that one. I jumped right into the tutorial without reading the whole thread but fortunately I figured out the shortcut.
Oh, and maybe some eye protection when putting the 2 screws back in with the unit upside down. It might suck to lose one of those screws in your eye. I almost found out the hard way.
Thanks again Chris
#112
Thanks guys
I’m Glad that the write up is helping some of you who stuck it out with the stock system. Mine has still been going strong since the write up, no cutouts/fading at all.
Sorry if the write up is not the shortest method or 100% complete for that matter, it was a last minute decision to take some pics while fixing someone else’s HU.
This should not only resolve just left speaker cutout, before I did this I had both left and right occasionally go out. I have not had a problem since. For those of you having CD reading problems (the ribbon problem is NOT related to CD reading), I would recommend cleaning your laser/prism during the tear down. There should be hundreds of write ups on this topic. Basically tear down the laser assembly as much as possible and gently clean all glass surfaces with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Thanks again to everyone who is trying to improve on this write up.
Chris
I’m Glad that the write up is helping some of you who stuck it out with the stock system. Mine has still been going strong since the write up, no cutouts/fading at all.
Sorry if the write up is not the shortest method or 100% complete for that matter, it was a last minute decision to take some pics while fixing someone else’s HU.
This should not only resolve just left speaker cutout, before I did this I had both left and right occasionally go out. I have not had a problem since. For those of you having CD reading problems (the ribbon problem is NOT related to CD reading), I would recommend cleaning your laser/prism during the tear down. There should be hundreds of write ups on this topic. Basically tear down the laser assembly as much as possible and gently clean all glass surfaces with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Thanks again to everyone who is trying to improve on this write up.
Chris
#113
Bose HU Display Problem
Hi guys,
I have a different problem, but did not see a post for it so I will try here (hope you do not mind).
BTW, I also had the left cut-out problem and used Chris.s write-up(THANKS A LOT!) to fix it. It worked for a half a year or so and now I ordered the new cable to fix it "more permanently". Also, I did break a screwdriver and two bits on the HU screws, lol.
Now on my other issue - when I turn the headlights on, the light on my bose HU display comes off. Turn off the headlights and all is fine. You know how when you turn on the headlights the displays dims somewhat? I think those dimmed lights are not workin on my HU display. The AC display works just fine in both modes. This started happening a couple of months ago, so I figure that now I am taking apart the HU again for the cable, so I might try to deal with this as well. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
I have a different problem, but did not see a post for it so I will try here (hope you do not mind).
BTW, I also had the left cut-out problem and used Chris.s write-up(THANKS A LOT!) to fix it. It worked for a half a year or so and now I ordered the new cable to fix it "more permanently". Also, I did break a screwdriver and two bits on the HU screws, lol.
Now on my other issue - when I turn the headlights on, the light on my bose HU display comes off. Turn off the headlights and all is fine. You know how when you turn on the headlights the displays dims somewhat? I think those dimmed lights are not workin on my HU display. The AC display works just fine in both modes. This started happening a couple of months ago, so I figure that now I am taking apart the HU again for the cable, so I might try to deal with this as well. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
#115
Well thanks Chris.s I did the fix and it worked. Following your instructions to the T until i got to the last board. Then I used IMJD's instructions to ge to the ribbon. As for the bracket screws, I used a ratchet with a long extention and an 8mm socket so I could put my phillip bit into then press hard and turn....
THANKS
THANKS
#118
Mine cuts out CD playing or not, radio . Now that it's cold, I have to drive to work listening to the engine rather than any music as it takes about 25 minutes to come to, and the HU is blank and the only button that works is the volume and 'mode' (band change/CD/AM/FM). Once the car sits out in the sun, the volume and channel change work, but other than that
Maybe I'll give this a whirl.
Maybe I'll give this a whirl.
#119
If you bring your car to a dealership under warranty to fix this you have so stress the issues. They had my head unit for a damn month and it still wasn't right.
If I'm dying to hear stereo sound in my car with CD playback I have to tap on my CD player for the left speaker to kick in
If I'm dying to hear stereo sound in my car with CD playback I have to tap on my CD player for the left speaker to kick in
#120
Sorry to bring up a good ole useful thread but I can't seem to get the unit out of my dash.. Is the trick to pull out the ac vent above the radio first? So just tug at the top of it and the rest will be cake?
I'm just weary of breaking clips and whatever else is behind there.
I'm just weary of breaking clips and whatever else is behind there.