Kruppa

iTrader: (1)

I finally got a check engine light after 2 years with the car.

P1320 - Ignition Signal

So now I'm in the market for some new ignition coils...I should have known it was coming with the horrible gas mileage I've been getting. Anyways, I obviously don't want to buy all six if it's not needed, so does anybody know how/where(any stores) to see which coil(s) need replacement?

I replaced my spark plugs about 8 months ago, so they should be all set.

I looked in the FAQ, Install, and Check Engine Light stickies and didn't see any write-up for changing the coils either. Does anybody have one for a 2000? Thanks guys.

Blihz

I'm also wondering this .. if anybody knows.. ?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I would replace all 6 with the updated Grey Dot ones, infact someone is selling them in the 5th gen for sale forums.
I had the 3 rear non updated ones in my car for about 3 weeks and it ran decent, no CEL's. I just replaced them with the updated ones and the car is much smoother.
Remove the Nissan 3000 TwinCam cover, you will see the 3 front coil packs. Remove the connector and bolt to each and pull out hte coil pack. Install new coil pack and tighten bolt and snap in connector. For the rear, you will see them inbetween the gaps in the manifold. Take off the connector and bolt and remove the coil pack. Install new coilpack and tighten bolt and snap in connector.

FusionAcid

iTrader: (1)

yes, replace all 6. the only way to check it through a voltmeter/ohmeter. BUT, the coil are usually okay because they are cold. They get messed up when they are in use/driving because the coils get extremely hot.

short answer, replace all 6 with the newer version. I bought them from twllin on this .org through ebay like 1 year ago. work perfect. knock on wood!

Nissan should issue a massive recall on those, everyone gets throws this SES code sooner or later.

Blihz

Thanks!

Btw, is there a particular check engine light code that accompanies this problem or is there a variety of different ones?

(if you know them specifically, the description (ie, not just the number) of the code would be helpful).

Thanks

Kruppa

iTrader: (1)

I just checked the front 3 coils during my lunch break because they are easy to get to. Removing each one caused the engine to noticeably flutter, so I'm assuming that it's one of the rear 3 that are the issue of course because they are such a pain to get to.

Bensmax00

the only way u can tell which coil to replace is --when you pull codes that there is a misfire code for a certain cylinder--like if you get the 1320 code as well as a p0301 then u know that the cylinder number 1 coil is bad--you'll get a p0301-p0306 the last digit is the cylinder #--if you get a p0300 doesnt to much help as that is multicylinder misfire

WVmax

I'm getting all of mine replaced. (I explained why in another thread "2k coils.")I ordered them from Dave B. and just got them in today. Just one question, (I'm not very carsmart). 3 of the coils are different from the other 3. Is this the difference of the back 3 vs. the front 3? Anyone know the part numbers for these right off hand?

Ephraim

iTrader: (15)

it should be in the stickies. also i had one go bad and my CEL didnt come on till a month after i had been having symptoms.

ChromeSE5

iTrader: (3)

i think i diagnosed a failing coil once... or it could be in my head... but i removed each coil and whatever one sounded like crap i replaced. It worked haha.

seemymaxima

how do you know if you have the updated coils i have 2001 maxima runs fine so far

go-max

Another thread on this suggested that the problem is not really with the coils but the insulation around the coils that breaks down and lets the electricity escape. Seems to be correct, I did as they suggested and wrapped some high temp electrical tape from Home Depot around mine about 3 months ago and no more light.

jjames

did you wrap the tape around the entire coil, or just the top (square) part?

go-max

Yes, just wrapped tape around the top square portion. I wrapped about 2 layers thick. I checked them last week and the tape is holding up good, not peeling off or melting.

jjames

ok...first of all, if this works, i'm guessing some people are going to be a little cheesed off.

b. i'll be trying it today.

4. if it works, i am lmao.

Kruppa

iTrader: (1)

suppose you do correctly fix the problem with the ignition coils whether it be a new coil or the tape thing just mentioned, how long will it take for the light to turn off?

jjames

i would imagine that you'd have to disco the battery to get the light to go off, no? my light will flash at certain times. if this fixes the problem, the flashing should at least stop. i should have this done today. i'll report back.

woosh

Try this link
Ignition coil test

Bensmax00

if you guys are talking about the ses light--if the light flashes that is a big problem--it means that there is something that is going to ruin the Cat. mostly the ses light is for emissions control. and is basically to protect the cat. so if it flashes then it usually means a rich misfire(too much unburned fuel getting to the cat) but not all the time---also the lite will go off when the vehicles SRT(system readiness test) drive has been completed for that system--these are the tests that have to be complete for a smog test---when it completes that test and there are no faults then the light will go out.

woosh

As far as I know, a flashing SES means multiple codes are stored, they have to be read to know what they are, could be anything.