Coby099

Hey guys,
I changed my front struts and still have the same bang noise everytime I hit a pot hole or bump. What else could it be?????????????????????? Please help!

goldmaxNYC

could it be the link?

Coby099

What do you mean - could it be the link - I was wondering maybe there is something wrong with my springs???????

PaulyPoTz

iTrader: (3)

i jus had the same problem took it to a mechanic told me it was my struts...chnaged my struts...same ****t...took it to nissan n i needed a front engine mount and 2 new strut mounts it could be any of them personaly if u dunno wat ur doin take it to a mechanic n tell him to check your mounts for the struts if he dunno ur best bet ..sorry to say is the dealer...by the way i needed new wheel bearings a rear hub and my front end alighnment...banged me out for $1900...good luck

Barc

iTrader: (2)

Read what I wrote in the following link. It seems to have helped those who have had this problem, including myself.

http://f.maxima.org/showthread.php?p...03#post3435703

Good luck!

Coby099

Thanks Guys,

everyone has there own opinion of the situation , I dont know whom to listen to????? I am so confused - Maybe its my spring.... I am talking about the front right one.????

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

you had a banging noise and the dealer put in 2 new struts, 2 new strut mounts, engine mount, rear hub, and new bearing????? Sounds like the dealer had no idea how to fix it so they just replaced anything they felt like replacing.....since you were paying

Surprised they didn't sell you some blinker fluid while they were at it.....

Epacy

iTrader: (6)

They should have sold him an english book as well while they were in the process of working him over.

Trance Artur

iTrader: (2)

It sound's like the stablizer links.

Sly

The OE stabilizer end links are trash. After living with the knocking noise for a few years I finally changed them, only for the new ones to go bad too after a few months. For the $50+ I spent on the replacements I could've gotten high quality heim joints that wouldn't start to get loose so quickly. That's the next step.

BTW, it's fairly easy to diagnose bad end links. Just jack up the front of the car (both sides), take the wheels off, and push up and down on the stabilizer bar. If there's ANY looseness in any of the link joints, no matter how little, chances are that's the source of the clunking noise if you know your struts are good.

SCT.MAX

I'll bet it's the links. I had the banging noise in the front. The links are easy to change, though I had to cut the lower bolt on the right one cause it was stripped, and after I did it, the noise was gone. Just did it three weeks ago. RockAuto.com has MOOG's (manuf.) for about twelve bucks each (right and left are different). If using Rock, use discount code 229735222964 for 5% off till July 1st. (anyone can use this for anything). Nissan wants about 20.00 and 36.00 (right and left). The reason I went with non-Nissan was that except for the right and left facing different dirrections I couldn't figure out why the different prices. Besides the fact that the OEM links both went bad so early (replaced each a week apart and turns out both had been making noise).

Coby099

I guess I will go to my mechanic and ask to check out the front links? Is that correct? and ask him if they need to be replaced right? How much do you think it will cost me to change the links and have them tigher so that I dont hear that bang noie everytime I hit a bump... THanks guys - you guys are the best -

jgosses

My recently acquired 2000 GLE has a severe "clunk" in the right front ( pass side ) noticed especially on a DC pothole. A VA dealer replaced the sway bar links but this has not resolved the problem, they also tend to blame everything on "aftermarket struts" and generally seem incompetent. Any other ideas or things I should check? Car has 59K

SCT.MAX

My guess is that the links take a pro about an hour for both sides. If they use the MOOG brand parts and charge alittle markup, the total should be somewhere in the area of 100.00 (65.00 labor and 35.00 links). I would suggest the MOOG's as they are less expensive and as you have read, the OEM's may well be crap. And yes, of course we are talking about the front.

Now of course I just went ahead and replaced mine without any kind of testing or checking because I was doing the work myself and if the noise was still there, I only spent about 25.00 to find out. If there is a way to check them, it may be worth it to do that first but it seems you spent quite a bit at guesses already and there isn't much left (?).

Coby099

I really dont know what to do about my front passenger clunck noise... I know if I go to the dealer he is going to bullsh*t me about everything and I'll bet that the clunck noise will still be there. So you guys say my best bet is to change the links.... I already put new struts....

goldmaxNYC

i told you its the links in the very beggining of the post

saxart

I replaced the passenger side link when trying to fix my clunk and it wasn't the fix. Local shop disconnected the sway bar and still got the "clunk".

Long story short, I now have 4 new struts sitting in my trunk waiting to be installed.....

Sigh...

Coby099

You see the post below yours... The guy changed his linked and it wasnt the fix... one person tells me one thing and another person tells me another.. put urself in my shoes and youll go crazy..... cause you dont know who to listen to. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Ghase

iTrader: (12)

Guys change the strut mounts and strut bearing, that should take care of of the right side cluncking noise.

goldmaxNYC

heh durrr how can i see what he posted ..if i posted before him
just playin..
i know what u mean thou..
i was in same position when i had a noise on my left side... blah blah blah it it was the wheel bearing.

Coby099

I guess Ill change the right strut mount and see what happend! Thanks - anyone else with some wisdom?

CRBWS6

iTrader: (1)

i am experiencing what sounds like hitting the bump stop in the front when i go over bumps during cornering. it is only on the compressed side i.e. the outside wheel relative to the direction of the corner. since i only have the H&R drop, i didnt think it could actually be bottoming out. the response here on the .org was to not trim the bumps for the lesser drops (H&R, Maxspeed).

so, is the stab link sound similar to the sound when the car bottoms out on the bump stop?

Ghase

iTrader: (12)

Guys a update to this problem, today I changed my springs along with the strut mount, strut bearing, and cut the bump stops (the end links were done 5 months back). The car is alot quieter now but it still has alittle noise from the passenger side. The next thing I will try do next is to change the stabilizer bar bushing, hopefully that will do the trick. Stay tuned

Teufelhunden

iTrader: (8)

i guess i have the same problem. after installing my progress and agx, a week later, my driver side strut is making noise. sounds like the something is loose down there, every time i go over a bump. cant really pin point it, sounds like the same problem as cobys. i guess ill try to change the links, hope that works. anyone else had this problem after installing springs?

Coby099

I will change the strut mount and bearing and let you know how it goes... I hope it fixes the problembecause that noise is getting crazy and annoying everytime I drive , makes it feel very uncomfortable ride, stayed tuned

Rube0023

iTrader: (1)

Where did you guys purchase the strut mount & bearing? Is it one piece (bearing and mount) per side?
Thanks

Coby099

I didnt purchase it yet.... but I will go to the dealer to get it... I found out that the strut mount is $48 each and the bearing is $24 each ..... I will go on saturday to pick them up probably.....

Ghase

iTrader: (12)

Order it from Pinnacle Nissan, it like half price over their, $22 for the mount and $11 for the bearing. I would also suggest you change the stabilizer bar bushing too. For the simple fact this is the only thing on the front that I haven't change, and it only $6 over there at Pinnacle, it maybe in fact the problem on our cars.

Pinnacle website is www.nissanparts.org

itdood

Not sure if this can help. I had this problem on a different car.

The stabilizer (sway) bar was mounted to the firewall with 2 busings.

There's a split in the bushing so it can be placed on the bar.

When the bushing got a little wear, the bar began to push through the split and and it would bang into the firewall when I hit a bump.

Does the stabilizer in the Max mount on the firewall or area near it? Try replacing those busings, can't hurt because it's easy to do and they should be really cheap. Put some lithium grease on the new ones to make them last longer.

Coby099

Hey thanks for the letting me know where I can get ti cheaper.... So i will get the mount and the bearing for now , maybe Ill get the stabiler bar if its only 6 bucks and my mechanic install of it. thanks , stayed tuned

Ghase

iTrader: (12)

I guess your talking about me. Your welcome but just like itdood said, stabilizer bar bushing are easy to do and they should be really cheap. I will buy the bushing today and put them on. We all must find this problem.

boondoxmax

iTrader: (1)

I Had That Problem On My 02 Max.....end Links Suck

hunt364

I swapped the struts for HP blues and still had the same problem. I took it up the street to a friends front end shop and he took it for a test drive. When we came back he popped the hood, pressed the front end down and diagnosed the problem. It was the upper strut mount (part#54320-AU701). I was trying to save money and did not put new strut mounts on, so, needless to say I have to break down the front end again and pay another $70 for an alignment. Hope this helps save you the headache it caused me.

Malecki2k3

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem,already changed the strut ,stabilizer links and bushings.The wheel bearing next after my conversation with Housecor.