Free Sts........
07-17-2006, 10:00 AM
#81
Play with my balls
Thread Starter
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,542
^ Never tried that or heard of it being tried. I know that this works so I stick with it. Still has not given me any issues, 100% perfect.
On a side note- A couple of weeks ago, sloppymax came over and helped me with the install of my ES Shifter bushings. This not only is a helpful mod, but one of the best I've ever done on this car. The shifts are very very pronounced. You are either in it or you're not, and once you're in, there's no getting out.
A buddy of mine with an M3 drove my car last week and he absolutely loves my shifter feel setup. He has a short shifter as well, and says that mine is shorter, tighter, and almost impossible to miss. Just wanted to give an updated review of my experiences with this sts mod along with the ES bushings.
Happy shifting!
On a side note- A couple of weeks ago, sloppymax came over and helped me with the install of my ES Shifter bushings. This not only is a helpful mod, but one of the best I've ever done on this car. The shifts are very very pronounced. You are either in it or you're not, and once you're in, there's no getting out.
A buddy of mine with an M3 drove my car last week and he absolutely loves my shifter feel setup. He has a short shifter as well, and says that mine is shorter, tighter, and almost impossible to miss. Just wanted to give an updated review of my experiences with this sts mod along with the ES bushings.
Happy shifting!
07-17-2006, 10:22 AM
#82
I would not recommend using a shoulder bolt on this type of modification. Being in manufacturing, a shoulder bolt's weak point is where the shoulder (no thread) meets the threaded end. Although not in automotive application, I've seen shoulder bolts shear and render a unit unusable.
As Deckdout2 have posted, use the 8mm bolt (Grade A or Grade 5) and use a thread locker (Loctite).
As Deckdout2 have posted, use the 8mm bolt (Grade A or Grade 5) and use a thread locker (Loctite).
07-17-2006, 10:37 AM
#83
Originally Posted by NisMoN00B
I would not recommend using a shoulder bolt on this type of modification. Being in manufacturing, a shoulder bolt's weak point is where the shoulder (no thread) meets the threaded end. Although not in automotive application, I've seen shoulder bolts shear and render a unit unusable.
As Deckdout2 have posted, use the 8mm bolt (Grade A or Grade 5) and use a thread locker (Loctite).
As Deckdout2 have posted, use the 8mm bolt (Grade A or Grade 5) and use a thread locker (Loctite).
10-14-2006, 12:38 PM
#84
Originally Posted by raidwolf
i think what that previous poster was saying was, is it ok to just drill right thru the body and secure the bolt (regardless if it's fully threaded or not) with a nut on the other side? or do you really have to drill/tap halfway thru?
I would like to know this as well.
07-08-2007, 07:36 AM
#85
Sorry to bump an old thead but anyway, I created myself quite a problem trying to do this mod. The freakin tap broke off in the drilled hole! I'm just wondering how easy is it to take this part that I drilled into off the tranny. I imagine that it goes down into the trans a ways but I don't know for sure. Someone know if its easy to remove the part that you drill into?
Figured I'd update this... I used one of these for my predicament. http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm Great tool! I also figured I'd say mention that the bolt came loose twice and I was stuck in one gear. I got a longer bolt and use some thread locker and hopefully it will stay in place.
Figured I'd update this... I used one of these for my predicament. http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm Great tool! I also figured I'd say mention that the bolt came loose twice and I was stuck in one gear. I got a longer bolt and use some thread locker and hopefully it will stay in place.
07-08-2007, 02:56 PM
#88
Originally Posted by 02Maximan
Not sure if I'm reading you correctly. You say its easy for most people to remove this part off the tranny OR its easy for most people to buy a STS? 
Originally Posted by soonerfan
for most people...its seems to just be easier to buy a STS
03-10-2008, 08:51 PM
#95
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Atlanta/Athens
Posts: 62
I can't get to mine to look at this for myself.. how thick is this metal?
Like the others, I'm just making sure I have this understood correctly before I do it. You say to drill only halfway into the metal, thread it for a 8mm threaded bolt, and then screw the bolt in as far as it will go w/ locktite? So, that bolt will be only a few mm into the metal correct? Seems like it would pull out! But you guys have had no problems.. so what do I know??
Again, I can't get to mine w/ the stock airbox, but I will probably take it out Thursday when I have to take the intake collector off to replace my spark plugs..
Like the others, I'm just making sure I have this understood correctly before I do it. You say to drill only halfway into the metal, thread it for a 8mm threaded bolt, and then screw the bolt in as far as it will go w/ locktite? So, that bolt will be only a few mm into the metal correct? Seems like it would pull out! But you guys have had no problems.. so what do I know??
Again, I can't get to mine w/ the stock airbox, but I will probably take it out Thursday when I have to take the intake collector off to replace my spark plugs..
03-10-2008, 09:22 PM
#96
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS MEMBER - OWES PEOPLE MONEY
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 3,468
This is a MUST DO mod on your 6spd 5.5 gen. It is easy and will cost you less than 12 bucks if you don't have the tools, less than 2 bucks if you do!
If you don't mind moving your shifter forward a minute amount (about 1/2 inch), you can drill into a hunk of steel that is about 1/2 inch thick to mount your cable in.
I went to lowes and bought a drillbit+8MM thread bit set for $4.96, a hand drill (to tap the threads) for $4.96, and a 8MM bolt + washer for about $1.38.
First, open the hood and pull the cable off the shifter while it's in neutral, then use a sharpie to mark the closest you can bolt the cable to the transmission.
Next, move the shifter into 1st gear so you can get at it with the drill easier, and drill the hole about 7/16ths of an inch deep, then use the hand drill to thread the hole.
Finally, put some blue loctite on your 8mm bolt, put your washer on top of the shifter cable bushing, and tighten down your bolt with your fingers. Now just make it good and snug with your wrench or rachet and boom, your short shifter is complete!
It took me a total of about 25 minutes and shortened my throws by around 50%.
edit: If you have the stock airbox, you only need to losten a few bolts to take out the airbox and get to the shifter cable. It's alot easier than it looks.
If you don't mind moving your shifter forward a minute amount (about 1/2 inch), you can drill into a hunk of steel that is about 1/2 inch thick to mount your cable in.
I went to lowes and bought a drillbit+8MM thread bit set for $4.96, a hand drill (to tap the threads) for $4.96, and a 8MM bolt + washer for about $1.38.
First, open the hood and pull the cable off the shifter while it's in neutral, then use a sharpie to mark the closest you can bolt the cable to the transmission.
Next, move the shifter into 1st gear so you can get at it with the drill easier, and drill the hole about 7/16ths of an inch deep, then use the hand drill to thread the hole.
Finally, put some blue loctite on your 8mm bolt, put your washer on top of the shifter cable bushing, and tighten down your bolt with your fingers. Now just make it good and snug with your wrench or rachet and boom, your short shifter is complete!
It took me a total of about 25 minutes and shortened my throws by around 50%.
edit: If you have the stock airbox, you only need to losten a few bolts to take out the airbox and get to the shifter cable. It's alot easier than it looks.
Last edited by sparks03max; 03-10-2008 at 09:25 PM.
05-12-2008, 05:22 PM
#100
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 168
Whoo hoo....what a great mod. Cost me $20 in parts and about 30 minutes in time.
Couple of notes, I couldn't find the 8MM drill and tap set so I ended up getting a 5/16x1 bolt and the 5/16 drill and tap set. Worked perfectly if you have problems finding the metric. I agree with the above poster that said this is a must do mod....makes shifting much smoother for me because the rpms don't drop as far while trying to row that 10" between 2nd and 3rd ;-) 6500 powershift to 3rd was quick with no crunch.
Thanks Deck!
Couple of notes, I couldn't find the 8MM drill and tap set so I ended up getting a 5/16x1 bolt and the 5/16 drill and tap set. Worked perfectly if you have problems finding the metric. I agree with the above poster that said this is a must do mod....makes shifting much smoother for me because the rpms don't drop as far while trying to row that 10" between 2nd and 3rd ;-) 6500 powershift to 3rd was quick with no crunch.
Thanks Deck!
06-06-2008, 04:36 AM
#101
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 96
Okay, I'm totally lost now. I thought the rod with the rubber sleeve on it was the one you moved. I thought you unscrewed the bolt then moved it and that bushing/washer closer to that post. Am I wrong? Do I have to drill through the post? I don't remember, but I think when I looked in my bay there was nothing connected to the post. Can someone clarify please?
01-11-2009, 09:12 AM
#104
I didn't want to start a new thread for info that has already been covered. So I went to church, spoke to the pastor and learned how to resurrect old threads.
I did the free STS today, (took me almost 2 hrs) back surgery bothering me. I did a dry run shifting the gears while parked and I thought I had did something wrong. I could not believe how close the gears are now; especially reverse. Then when I drove it; I'm still warm and fuzzy sitting here thinking about it. If you have a 6 speed, go out and DO THIS MOD, TODAY!!!! You will be pleasantly surprised.
ps: Hope the resurrection bit didn't offend.
I did the free STS today, (took me almost 2 hrs) back surgery bothering me. I did a dry run shifting the gears while parked and I thought I had did something wrong. I could not believe how close the gears are now; especially reverse. Then when I drove it; I'm still warm and fuzzy sitting here thinking about it. If you have a 6 speed, go out and DO THIS MOD, TODAY!!!! You will be pleasantly surprised.
ps: Hope the resurrection bit didn't offend.
01-11-2009, 01:01 PM
#105
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Jersey (Near Philly)
Posts: 511
I only had the car a week and I can't wait to do the Mod. I shortened the throw on my Integra shoifter to almost nothing and the shifting on the new Max makes it feel like a School bus.
The way we did it on the Integra was to lengthen the shaft on the shifter below the pivot point. That's what the aftermarket STS ones did also.
It's freezing out so the Mod will be waiting until spring.
Thanks for the good stuff.
The way we did it on the Integra was to lengthen the shaft on the shifter below the pivot point. That's what the aftermarket STS ones did also.
It's freezing out so the Mod will be waiting until spring.
Thanks for the good stuff.
04-01-2009, 06:20 AM
#106
Forgive my posting to an old thread...
...but my sincere thanks goes out to Deckdout2, Brian Catts and other contributors to Maxima.org regarding this STS modification. This mod, accompanied by new ES bushings, was one of the most fun changes I've applied to my car in recent years.
If you own a 5.5 6MT, you simply HAVE to do this mod, or have it professionally done at a street-pro shop. You won't regret it.
Thanks, everyone!
...but my sincere thanks goes out to Deckdout2, Brian Catts and other contributors to Maxima.org regarding this STS modification. This mod, accompanied by new ES bushings, was one of the most fun changes I've applied to my car in recent years.
If you own a 5.5 6MT, you simply HAVE to do this mod, or have it professionally done at a street-pro shop. You won't regret it.
Thanks, everyone!
04-16-2009, 09:27 PM
#107
Did it yesterday!!
Broke the 1st drill bit when I was drilling the pilot hole (about 1/2" into it). Luckily, it did not get lodged and I was able to fish it out with needle nose. After that it was smooth sailing. I wanted to so something different, so I got a long 8MM lag bolt and cut it about an inch above the surface where the cable bolts in. I then drilled a small hole through the bolt so I could stick the retainer clip through it. I figured this way the cable can pivot easier without being bolted down and with absolutely no chances of coming off. Also no need for threadlocker.
Broke the 1st drill bit when I was drilling the pilot hole (about 1/2" into it). Luckily, it did not get lodged and I was able to fish it out with needle nose. After that it was smooth sailing. I wanted to so something different, so I got a long 8MM lag bolt and cut it about an inch above the surface where the cable bolts in. I then drilled a small hole through the bolt so I could stick the retainer clip through it. I figured this way the cable can pivot easier without being bolted down and with absolutely no chances of coming off. Also no need for threadlocker.
04-17-2009, 04:33 AM
#108
Did it yesterday!!
Broke the 1st drill bit when I was drilling the pilot hole (about 1/2" into it). Luckily, it did not get lodged and I was able to fish it out with needle nose. After that it was smooth sailing. I wanted to so something different, so I got a long 8MM lag bolt and cut it about an inch above the surface where the cable bolts in. I then drilled a small hole through the bolt so I could stick the retainer clip through it. I figured this way the cable can pivot easier without being bolted down and with absolutely no chances of coming off. Also no need for threadlocker.
Broke the 1st drill bit when I was drilling the pilot hole (about 1/2" into it). Luckily, it did not get lodged and I was able to fish it out with needle nose. After that it was smooth sailing. I wanted to so something different, so I got a long 8MM lag bolt and cut it about an inch above the surface where the cable bolts in. I then drilled a small hole through the bolt so I could stick the retainer clip through it. I figured this way the cable can pivot easier without being bolted down and with absolutely no chances of coming off. Also no need for threadlocker.
However, I've been getting sensitive lately to the very small extra force you need to apply to get into gear. It makes sense... reducing the pivot distance, reducing the leverage, and increasing the need for force. And it's almost imperceptible.
I mentioned this to my local Nissan shop, and they suggested I swap my tranny fluid for Redline MT-90. I'm almost due for new transmission fluid anyway, so that's tee'd up.
04-17-2009, 04:56 AM
#109
One of my firends did this back when this thread was created and recently his bolt came out. As a suggestion, I reccommend finding a washer large enough to go over the bushing, then putting the bolt back in with a lockwasher. The purpose of the large washer is so the lockwasher has something to lock onto besides the rubber/polyurethane. Of course it did go ~6 years before this happened so to each their own.
04-17-2009, 05:43 AM
#110
I like what roderiques did with the cotter pin. That was pretty clever.
I had my mechanic do this mod. He tapped and drilled all the way through the plate, then cut a bolt to the proper length. The shank at the top of the bolt was bumped out so you can torque it down without compromising the bushing, which is relatively free in the shank.
I had my mechanic do this mod. He tapped and drilled all the way through the plate, then cut a bolt to the proper length. The shank at the top of the bolt was bumped out so you can torque it down without compromising the bushing, which is relatively free in the shank.
04-17-2009, 06:29 AM
#111
Play with my balls
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,542
One of my firends did this back when this thread was created and recently his bolt came out. As a suggestion, I reccommend finding a washer large enough to go over the bushing, then putting the bolt back in with a lockwasher. The purpose of the large washer is so the lockwasher has something to lock onto besides the rubber/polyurethane. Of course it did go ~6 years before this happened so to each their own.
Yes, it finally happened. After all this time, my bolt finally backed out. Luckily, it was still stuck in my polyurethane bushing so all I had to do was put it back in the hole and tighten it down.
Here's what happened......Driving down a 2 lane highway, and decided to go on a little spirited run. Started in 2nd, and threw it into 3rd, hit the top of 3rd gear and slammed it into 4th, at the end of 4th went to sling it into 5th, and that's where she went limp. I knew it was still in gear because my RPM's were still holding steady, but my shifter went limp and I could move it all around with my foot off everything. I couldn't even get out of 4th if I wanted to. So I drove/coasted to the next gas station and shut her down. Popped the hood and noticed what had happened. After hunting down the proper tools, put the bolt back in and is as good as new.
Mind you that this is the 1st time it's happened since I started this thread and performed this mod. I've been slamming gears since, on the street, at the track, and auto-x over this many years. I don't have lock-tite on the thread nor any other locking washers of any sorts. I think it's pretty impressive to have lasted this long under these aggressive conditions, and by aggressive I mean "almost" on the daily. I don't plan to do anything at this point, maybe put a lock washer or something on it, but it's the least of my concerns right now. Maybe I'll make it a permanent stay when the motor gets swapped out. Other wise I'll just be carrying on.......
04-17-2009, 06:37 AM
#112
Would this friend be me, you're referring to?
Yes, it finally happened. After all this time, my bolt finally backed out. Luckily, it was still stuck in my polyurethane bushing so all I had to do was put it back in the hole and tighten it down.
Here's what happened......Driving down a 2 lane highway, and decided to go on a little spirited run. Started in 2nd, and threw it into 3rd, hit the top of 3rd gear and slammed it into 4th, at the end of 4th went to sling it into 5th, and that's where she went limp. I knew it was still in gear because my RPM's were still holding steady, but my shifter went limp and I could move it all around with my foot off everything. I couldn't even get out of 4th if I wanted to. So I drove/coasted to the next gas station and shut her down. Popped the hood and noticed what had happened. After hunting down the proper tools, put the bolt back in and is as good as new.
Mind you that this is the 1st time it's happened since I started this thread and performed this mod. I've been slamming gears since, on the street, at the track, and auto-x over this many years. I don't have lock-tite on the thread nor any other locking washers of any sorts. I think it's pretty impressive to have lasted this long under these aggressive conditions, and by aggressive I mean "almost" on the daily. I don't plan to do anything at this point, maybe put a lock washer or something on it, but it's the least of my concerns right now. Maybe I'll make it a permanent stay when the motor gets swapped out. Other wise I'll just be carrying on.......
Yes, it finally happened. After all this time, my bolt finally backed out. Luckily, it was still stuck in my polyurethane bushing so all I had to do was put it back in the hole and tighten it down.
Here's what happened......Driving down a 2 lane highway, and decided to go on a little spirited run. Started in 2nd, and threw it into 3rd, hit the top of 3rd gear and slammed it into 4th, at the end of 4th went to sling it into 5th, and that's where she went limp. I knew it was still in gear because my RPM's were still holding steady, but my shifter went limp and I could move it all around with my foot off everything. I couldn't even get out of 4th if I wanted to. So I drove/coasted to the next gas station and shut her down. Popped the hood and noticed what had happened. After hunting down the proper tools, put the bolt back in and is as good as new.
Mind you that this is the 1st time it's happened since I started this thread and performed this mod. I've been slamming gears since, on the street, at the track, and auto-x over this many years. I don't have lock-tite on the thread nor any other locking washers of any sorts. I think it's pretty impressive to have lasted this long under these aggressive conditions, and by aggressive I mean "almost" on the daily. I don't plan to do anything at this point, maybe put a lock washer or something on it, but it's the least of my concerns right now. Maybe I'll make it a permanent stay when the motor gets swapped out. Other wise I'll just be carrying on.......
This is exactly why I did it my way. Knowing my luck, that would have happened to me a lot sooner than DEckdout's
04-17-2009, 11:20 AM
#113
Rochester, the Redline MT-90 will make a world of difference for you especially when it gets really cold during the winter months. Every car I've owned since 1996, I've filled them with Redline.
04-17-2009, 01:06 PM
#114
I've used MT-90 for like 3 years now. When I first got it for the stock shifter (which I still use) it took the notchiness of the stock feel out and feels ALOT smoother. I plan to do this mod with perkman if he sees this and is interested in it. Because reading through this all looks like 2 people is better then one. Anyone have pictures of all the required tools. I know there is a list in a few posts but as far as which loctite stuff and bushings. Rodrigues just did something different so maybe what pieces you used bud? Either way looks like a cheap easy mod to increase the shorter shift. Nice work and after 6 years of driving hard it finally came loose. Not bad anyway.
Last edited by Tippy Toes; 04-17-2009 at 01:06 PM. Reason: perk man doesnt have manual so guess I cant do this mod with him
04-17-2009, 02:30 PM
#115
Dude, your avatar image... can't focus, forgot why I was here...
