Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ-U)

[y2kse]

Found this on a Ford site. And I quote...

"Under the Magnusson-Moss Act, aftermarket equipment that improves performance does not void a vehicle manufacturer's original warranty, unless that warranty clearly states the addition of aftermarket equipment automatically voids the warranty or that the aftermarket device is the direct cause of the failure. The easiest way to check this is to look in your owner's manual under "What is not covered." Nonetheless, Dealers receive less compensation for warranty work than regular service rates and some have tried to deny warranty service. Under Magnusson-Moss Act a dealer must prove, not just vocalize, that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before they can deny warranty coverage. If they cannot prove such claim-or proffer a questionable explanation- it is your legal right to demand compliance with the warranty. The Federal Trade Commission (202-326-3128) administers the Magnusson-Moss Act and monitors compliance with warranty law."

This is one of the clearest explanations of Magnusson-Moss that I have ever read. Don't be pushed around by your Service Manager.

Credit: SG01MaxSE

Source: Painting Stock GXE Hubcaps...help!

[guchi]

I came up with this list since I had problems knowing what fits and how close to stock the tire is with differences in speedometer reading. Did not find a complete list on the board so here is my list...

Why so many, many of them have different or extra results others don't have and may be helpful for people looking for different things.

Upgrade tire calculator with links to TireRack:
http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/tire.html

Tire and Wheel Upgrade Calculator ProgramS:
http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/tirewheel.html

VERY GOOD Tire Size Comparisons:
http://www.dsm.org/tools/tiresize.htm

Calculates tire dimensions and speed differences:
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html

Tire Size Calculator Program:
http://www.sgmotorsports.com/tiresize.htm

Quick Tire Sizing:
http://members.aol.com/agspeed/tiresize.htm

Tire Size Comparator Program [free download]:
http://cat.cc/tiresize.htm

Gear Finder Program:
http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/..._gearfindb.htm

Palm-Freaks Tire Sizing:
http://www.cb-racing.com/palm_TireSizeCalc.htm

Transmission Gear Calculator [demo download]:
http://www.performancetrends.com/tg.htm

This is a program, written by Chris in Pascal, for DOS, that takes care of figuring out the little formulae that we sometimes need to know. It will calculate the following -

1. Compute Engine Displacement, given bore and stroke dimensions
2. Compute carb requirements, given engine displacement and expected level of performance
3. Convert metric tire size to inches
4. Compute RPM for a given speed, given tire size and gearing.
5. Compute top speed in given gears, given tire size and gearing.

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/misc/carstuff.shtml

Another quick tire sizing with speedometer reading:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

<b>Pretty cool Drag Racing Analyzer Program [Demo-Download]:</b>
http://www.performancetrends.com/Dra...20Analyzer.htm

~ SHIFT_enjoy~

[y2kse]

Spark plugs have two jobs. 1) To produce a very high temperature spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture as quickly as possible. 2) To fine tune the temperature of the combustion chamber. Number 2 is the "heat range" of the plug.

Most plugs do this just fine, with each manufacturer being a little different in their specifications (i.e. a heat range of "5" in an NGK is not the same as a "5" in a Bosch). There are equivalency tables, but don't expect them to be too accurate.

So I'll just concern myself with Number 1. To create a spark, we must produce so much voltage across the air gap that the air becomes ionized (the molecules split apart and the electrons fly willy-nilly). This creates very intense heat, hopefully plenty to ignite the compressed air/fuel mixture, and the plug has done it's job (#1).

The shape of the plug electrode is important. The sharper the electrodes (both of them!) become, the easier it is to ionize the air between them. If I take two smooth brass balls of 3" diameter and put 10,000 Volts across them, I can get a spark to jump when I push them to within about 0.125" of each other. If I take two long, sharp needles pointed at each other, that same 10,000 Volts will still spark when they are 1.5" apart! (For the technically minded: this can easily be seen from Gauss' law if you compare E between the extremes of either two point charges or two equally spaced infinite parallel planes).

There is also another good reason for sharp points: "unshrouding" the spark. Imagine that we put a big flat plate over the tip of the ground electrode, thus shrouding the spark from the combustion chamber. The spark would still happen, and the mixture would probably still ignite, but the burn would have to go out, around the plate, and back in to the center of the combustion chamber, resulting in piston rock and detonation. We'd much prefer that the burn happen in a very smooth, ideally hemispherical manner to produce a smooth pressure curve inside that chamber. By keeping the electrodes sharp, we unshroud the spark as much as possible, allowing the maximum contact between the spark and the air/fuel mixture, making it ignite more easily and the burn spread more smoothly.

So it would seem that the sharper the electrodes, the better. This would be true except for two caveats having to do with heat. The very hot spark emanates from the electrodes at their tip. If this tip is very sharp, it will get extremely hot because there is so little metal to heat and there is not enough area to conduct that heat away. Think of it this way - if you unbend a paperclip and hold it's tip in a blowtorch, the tip will glow red hot in seconds, but you'll still be able to hold the relatively cool end. Now take a short piece of rebar and do the same thing. Long before the rebar gets red hot, you will have dropped it and will be sucking your thumb to quell the big, burned blister that is popping up. Why? Because the rebar had lots of metal volume to heat and plenty of area to conduct that heat to your hand, whereas the paperclip had neither. So the paperclip end got much much hotter in much less time. The paperclip is like a sharp tip and the rebar is like a fat tip (if you didn't get that already).

So, the caveats:

Caveat number one: Too sharp a tip will melt the electrode. If the temperature of the tip reaches the melting point of the metal that it's made of - you can kiss it goodbye. Here are the melting points of some commonly used metals (Celsius):

Zinc == 420
Aluminum == 660
Copper == 1083
Steel == 1400-1500
Platinum == 1772
Iridium == 2410

This problem is mainly concerned with the volume of metal at the spark tip - if the temperature even instantaneously reaches the melting point, some of that metal will disappear. You can see that Platinum and Iridium coated plugs can withstand significantly higher temperatures, and thus can have sharper tips than their steel or copper counterparts. To add insult to injury, if some of the metal does disappear from a very sharp tip, then you've actually opened up the spark gap some. To prevent that from happening, we have to start with a wider tip, such that any small amount that is eroded will not change the size or geometry of the tip by too much.

Caveat number two: Too sharp a tip will create a "hot spot" in the combustion chamber. Even if you don't reach the melting point of the metal, you can still get it glowing hot. If that tip is still glowing red hot when the next compression stroke comes about (two full engine revolutions since the last spark) that residual heat can actually ignite the air/fuel mixture before the spark is supposed to occur. This is pre-ignition. It generally creates even more heat - leaving the spark plug even hotter than the last time thus repeating the cycle until you melt a piston. Ouch!

To avoid this, we want a wide area near the tip to conduct as much heat away from the tip as possible. Here are some of the thermal conductivities of some commonly used metals (Watts / centimeter*Kelvin) :

Zinc == 1.16
Aluminum == 2.37
Copper == 4.01
Steel == 0.70 - 0.82
Platinum == 0.716
Iridium == 1.47

You can easily see why Copper is the metal of choice for the core of the spark plug. It's just about the best thermal conductor on earth. Occasionally, you still find plugs with an aluminum core - stay away!

So, what we want is the sharpest tip possible such that it does not melt the electrode nor does it stay so hot as to cause pre-ignition. Let's break it down:

Bare Copper

They have a low melting temperature and the tips will vaporize away - they have a very wide tip so each little bit that disappears will not change the gap size greatly, but they still must be inspected often to make sure there is sufficient electrode material left. They are great for very hot running engines which must avoid pre-ignition at all costs since the wide tip will not stay hot(high boost forced induction and nitrous engines come to mind).

Platinum

Platinum plugs are usually constructed similar to copper plugs except that they have a thin coating of Platinum sputtered onto the electrode tips, about 0.010" thick (a human hair is about 0.005" thick). Because of the high melting point of Platinum, the tips can be made significantly sharper without fear of the gap changing shape. But the copper core is still sufficient to whisk the heat away fairly quickly. These are great all-around plugs, particularly for use on NA engines, and they should last a very long time. Very high heat engines should probably not use them because the sharper tips may not conduct enough heat away to prevent pre-ignition under adverse conditions.

Iridium

This is the new guy on the block. They are much like platinum plugs just with iridium in place of the platinum. Because of the extremely high melting point of iridium, they can have very sharp tips without risk of melting and they should last a very long time. These would be best for high-rpm NA engines where the sharpest tip is needed for the best spark, but there is little danger of pre-ignition.

Strange electrode geometries

For the most part - don't buy it. Splitfire (one of the originators) is undergoing all kinds of lawsuits for false claims. I won't go into detail here, but if you think about the Gauss' law thing (sharp points vs. brass balls) you really can't get any better a spark than between just two sharp points, and you're also increasing the shrouding of the spark with more or bigger electrodes.

An exception to this is retracted gap plugs ("surface-fire"), which are a lifesaver if you have severe detonation or plug-piston clearance problems, but they take a very powerful ignition to spark (no sharp points!) and they don't often get a good clean burn going.

Other tips

** Disregard any BS about the electrical difference of the metals - the micro-ohm difference in 0.010" thickness of Copper vs. Iridium means exactly squat when there is a huge air gap equivalent to tens of mega-ohms of resistance right there in series with it.

** When installing plugs in an aluminum head, always use a very thin (I mean thin!) coating of anti-seize compound so you can get them out later. Some plugs have zinc or cadmium plated threads, this generally helps a lot, but still use the anti-seize. Iron heads don't have this problem as much, but a little anti-seize doesn't hurt.

** Always use a calibrated torque wrench (or the precise owner's manual instructions) to tighten your plugs. Over- or under-tightening is probably the most common cause of spark plug failure.

** Buy from a reputable manufacturer that will allow you to return or exchange the plugs if you have a problem with them, many "store brand" plugs are made very cheaply, and I've seen the ceramic separate from the metal more times than I care to think.

** Always, always, err... always check the gap. Don't ever assume that the gap is correct. Do it with new plugs and every time you check your plugs. It only takes a second and it saves a lot of trouble later. In the same vein, make sure the plug in the box is what the box says it is - I've gotten the wrong plug in the right box before.

** Learn to read your plugs. Not really about plugs at all, but about what's happening in your combustion chamber. After all, the plugs are right there to witness it!

[Source: http://www.automotivearticles.com/ge...e&articleid=18]

[studman]

The results are in.

What's the purpose of a pressurized gas tank?

[Igor911]

Here is DaveB's new phone number: 1-888-254-6060

Give him a call if you need any OEM nissan parts. He is a great parts guy and gives unbeatable prices!

Many ORG members order parts from Dave.

[Y2KevSE]

Maxima sighting in N. metro Atlanta. -->

Credit: Max_Gator

[MetaOrbit]

Everything anyone ever wanted to know about Automotive lighting. Includes HID specific questions and answers as well.

Automotive Lighting FAQ:

http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com/

[jjs]

FYI...

installing Indiglo Gauges please help

[IceY2K1]

Also, what does OCTANE of fuel really mean.

Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition

[studman]

If your airbag light is on (or flashing)... try this. By the way, use a stopwatch to count.... the timing must be accurate in order for it to work.

1) Turn IGNITION on (but don't start car)
2) After the AIR BAG warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, turn IGNITION off within 1 second.
3) Wait 4 seconds
4) Turn IGNITION on (but don't start car)
5) After the AIR BAG warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, turn IGNITION off within 1 second.
6) Wait 4 seconds
7) Turn IGNITION on (but don't start car)
8) After the AIR BAG warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, turn IGNITION off within 1 second.
9) Wait 4 seconds
10) Turn IGNITION on (but don't start car)
11) Wait 3 seconds
12) Turn IGNITION off
13) Wait 2 seconds
14) START Car (the light may be blinking slower than before)
15) Wait 3 seconds
16) Turn IGNITION off
17) Wait 3 seconds
18) START Car

The light should be gone unless the problem remains. Try it again if it fails. If it still remains on, you'll need to visit a dealer to have the problem looked at.

[studman]

This is how to reset all the stored SES/MIL codes in the ECU, as well as resetting all the learned settings in the ECU. Note that it takes between 100 and 200 miles AFTER the reset before the ECU will adapt to your driving style.

This procedure is also helpful in retrieving the stored error codes without the use of an ODB-II scanner. Just follow steps 1-4 and the SES light will flash with a code. The code will be 4 digits long. A "0" is ten flashes. The SES light will pause between digits. If there are multiple codes stored, the SES light will flash the first code, then second, then third... and repeating again at code number 1.

!!!!!WARNING...Make sure the engine is NOT running...WARNING!!!!!

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp

[limsandy]

PIAA Wiper Blade refill will fit into 2002-2003 Maxima. As such, you don't have to buy the whole wiper blade mechanism, just the refills/rubber thing. For my 2002 SE, the driver's side wiper needs to be 26" long and the passenger side needs to be 17" long.

Where to buy, you might ask? I bought mine at www.optauto.com


~limsandy

[irish44j]

For the 2k (and 2k1 I think) owners....here is the part you are looking for if you need a new MAF (or want to carry a spare, as I do). I think there are alternate part #'s as well, but this is what I got. It includes the plastic tube piece and the sensor, and cost just over $100 from the dealer.

[studman]

This procedure works for 2002-2003 vehicles, but may also work for 2000-2001 vehicles.

Here's how to read the error codes and to reset the TCM. Please use a stopwatch for accuracy.

Please NOTE that you DO NOT START THE CAR in any step other than step 2. Serious injury or death could occur from not following the instructions exactly.

1) Move shifter to Park
2) Start engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature (please do this in an open-air environment, so as not to risk serious injury or death)
3) Turn key to the OFF position
4) Wait 5 seconds
5) Turn key to the IGNITION position, but do not start car
6) A/T CHECK light should come on for about 2 seconds
7) Turn key to the OFF position
8) Turn key to the ACC position
9) Press and hold the accelerator pedal to the floor (100% WOT)
10) Press brake pedal and move shifter into Drive (D)
11) Turn key to the IGNITION position (DO NOT START THE CAR)
12) Wait 3 seconds
13) Move shifter to 2nd gear
14) Release gas and brake pedal
15) Move shifter to 1st gear
16) Press and hold the brake pedal
17) Press and release the gas pedal
18) The A/T CHECK light should flash ON and OFF - Refer to the chart below for explanation of the flashes. Depending on the sequence and timing of the flashes, you can determine what problem, if any, the TCM is reporting.
19) After discovering what the problem is, put the shifter in Park and turn off the car
20) When you turn on the car, the TCM will be reset. You may need to reset the ECU to clear any SES codes that are stored.

-----------------------

Scenario 1) All judgement flickers are the same = Everything is OK
Scenario 2) 1st judgement flicker is longer than others = Revolution sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 3) 2nd judgement flicker is longer than others = Vehicle speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 4) 3rd judgement flicker is longer than others = Accelerator pedal position sensor (or throttle position sensor) circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 5) 4th judgement flicker is longer than others = Shift solenoid valve A circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 6) 5th judgement flicker is longer than others = Shift solenoid valve B circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 7) 6th judgement flicker is longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid valve circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 8) 7th judgement flicker is longer than others = Torque convertor clutch solenoid valve circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 9) 8th judgement flicker is longer than others = A/T fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or TCM power source circuit is disconnected
Scenario 10) 9th judgement flicker is longer than others = Engine speed signal circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 11) 10th judgement flicker is longer than others = Power train revolution circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 12) 11th judgement flicker is longer than others = Line pressure solenoid valve circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 13) 12th judgement flicker is longer than others = CAN communication line is damaged
Scenario 14) The light stays off = Park/neutral (PNP) switch, 3rd position switch, closed throttle position signal or wide-open throttle position signal circuit is shorted or disconnected
Scenario 15) The light flickers at steady pace, but goes from lighted to dim to lighted (and keeps repeating) = Battery power is low, battery has been disconnected for a long time, or battery is connected conversely

DISCLAIMER: I have not in any way tested this procedure. Please use extreme caution when performing this procedure. I am in no way responsible for damage to or damage caused by you or your vehicle while performing this procedure. This information is for educational purposes only, and should be used at your own discretion and risk.

[IceY2K1]

So, are Stillen Headers worth it? Do they yield the advertised gains?

Everyone that wants to know....

STILLEN HEADERS....the bomb or poop?

READ THIS~~~>
intake quickie sorry for another one

[IceY2K1]

Brake fluid comparison for Dry/Wet boiling point and cost:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Br...Comparison.htm

[01SE02SER]

2001 Maxima SE 20th Anniversary Edition
Differences From The Regular 2001 SE:

Cosmetic:
- '20th Anniversary Edition' badge on the trunk lid
- Anniversary Edition aero body kit
- Anniversary Edition floor mats
- Anniversary Edition keys
- Anniversary Edition 'Maxima' door sills
- Anniversary Edition pedals
- Anniversary Edition shifter
- Bronze-tinted headlights
- Engine cover ('Nissan' version of the Infiniti I30 cover of that year)
- One extra available 'exclusive' exterior color for that year: Majestic Blue
- Polished version of the 2000/2001 17" alloy wheels

Performance:
- Muffler from the Infiniti I30 of that year
- 227HP vs 222HP of that year
- Limited slip differential

Comfort:
- Perforated leather interior

[ZIPPIN]

It costs between $80.00 and $100.00. Call DAVE.B or search for it....

[UMD_MaxSE]

I got ripped of by Maxx Tuning...

transmission fluid leak. NEED HELP

[studman]

Service Engine Soon (SES/MIL/CEL) Error Codes and Descriptions

!!!!!If the code is BLUE, click on it for the thread/link to more information!!!!!!

Here is a list of the error codes for the 5th Generation Maxima (USA) and their descriptions:

P0011 - IVT Control (Bank 1)
P0021 - IVT Control (Bank 2)
P0031 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Heater Low Voltage (Bank 1)
P0032 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Heater Low Voltage (Bank 2)
P0037 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Heater Low Voltage (Bank 1)
P0038 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Heater Low Voltage (Bank 2)
P0051 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Heater High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0052 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Heater High Voltage (Bank 2)
P0057 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Heater High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0058 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Heater High Voltage (Bank 2)
P0100 - Mass Air Flow Sensor
P0101 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0103 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P0105 - Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0107 - Absolute Pressor Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0108 - Absolute Pressor Sensor High Input
P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor
P0112 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0120 - Throttle Position Sensor
P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P0125 - Insufficient Engine Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0127 - Intake Air Temperature Too High
P0128 - Thermostat Malfunction
P0130 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1)
P0131 - Front O2 Sensor (Lean) (Bank 1)
P0132 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0133 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1)
P0134 - (2000-2001) Front O2 Sensor High Input (Bank 1)
P0134 - (2002-2003) Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1)
P0135 - Front O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1)
P0137 - Rear O2 Sensor Low Input (Bank 1)
P0138 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0139 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1)
P0140 - Rear O2 Sensor High Input (Bank 1)
P0141 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1)
P0150 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 2)
P0151 - Front O2 Sensor (Lean) (Bank 2)
P0152 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2)
P0153 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2)
P0154 - (2000-2001) Front O2 Sensor High Input (Bank 2)
P0154 - (2002-2003) Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2)
P0155 - Front O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 2)
P0157 - Rear O2 Sensor Low Input (Bank 2)
P0158 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2)
P0159 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2)
P0160 - Rear O2 Sensor High Input (Bank 2)]
P0161 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 2)
P0171 - Fuel Injection System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 - Fuel Injection System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0174 - Fuel Injection System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0175 - Fuel Injection System Too Rich (Bank 2)
P0180 - Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor
P0181 - Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor Circuit Range / Performance
P0182 - Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor Low Input
P0183 - Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor High Input
P0217 - Coolant Over Temperature Enrichment Protection
P0221 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0223 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0226 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P0227 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0228 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfired Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfired Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfired Detected
P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfired Detected
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfired Detected
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfired Detected
P0325 - Knock Sensor
P0327 - Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0328 - Knock Sensor Circuit High Input
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase) Circuit (Bank 1)
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor (Phase) Circuit (Bank 2)
P0400 - EGR Function (Close)
P0403 - EGR Volume Control Valve Circuit
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0440 - EVAP Control System Small Leak
P0441 - EVAP Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 - EVAP Control System Small Leak Detected (Negative Pressure)
P0443 - EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
P0444 - EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Open
P0445 - EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit
P0447 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit Open
P0450 - EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor
P0452 - EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 - EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0455 - EVAP Control System Gross Leak
P0456 - EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak (Negative Pressure Check)
P0460 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Noise
P0461 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range / Performance
P0462 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit
P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve
P0506 - Idle Speed Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0507 - Idle Speed Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P0510 - Closed Throttle Position Switch
P0550 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit
P0600 - A/T Communication Line
P0605 - Engine Control Module (ECM)
P0650 - Malfunction Indicator (MIL) Control Circuit
P1065 - ECM Power Supply Circuit
P1102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P1121 - Electric Throttle Control Actuator
P1121 - ABS / TCS Control Unit Performance
P1122 - Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem
P1124 - Throttle Control Motor Relay Circuit Short
P1126 - (2000-2001) Thermostat Function
P1126 - (2002-2003) Throttle Control Motor Relay Circuit Open
P1128 - Throttle Control Motor Relay Circuit Short
P1130 - Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P1143 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring (Bank 1)
P1144 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Rich Shift Monitoring (Bank 1)
P1146 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Minimum Voltage Monitoring (Bank 1)
P1147 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Maximum Voltage Monitoring (Bank 1)
P1148 - Closed Loop Control (Bank 1)
P1163 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring (Bank 2)
P1164 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Rich Shift Monitoring (Bank 2)
P1165 - Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch
P1166 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Minimum Voltage Monitoring (Bank 2)
P1167 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Maximum Voltage Monitoring (Bank 2)
P1168 - Closed Loop Control (Bank 2)
P1211 - ABS/TCS Control Unit
P1212 - ABS / TCS Communication Line
P1217 - Engine Over Temperature
P1223 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input
P1224 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P1225 - Closed Throttle Position Learning Performance Problem
P1226 - Closed Throttle Position Learning Performance Problem
P1227 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input
P1228 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P1229 - Sensor Power Supply Circuit Short
P1320 - Ignition Signal
P1335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
P1336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS) (COG)
P1401 - EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402 - EGR Function (Open)
P1440 - EVAP Control System Small Leak
P1444 - EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P1446 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Closed
P1447 - EVAP Emission Control System Purge Flow Monitoring
P1448 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Open
P1456 - EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak (Positive Pressure Check)
P1464 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Ground Signal
P1490 - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve Circuit
P1491 - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve Circuit
P1564 - Automatic Speed Control Device Steering Switch
P1572 - Automatic Speed Control Device Brake Switch
P1574 - Automatic Speed Control Device Vehicle Speed Sensor
P1605 - A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
P1706 - Park / Neutral Position Switch
P1800 - VIAS Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Open
P1805 - Brake Switch
P2122 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P2123 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P2127 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input
P2128 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
P2135 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P2138 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
U1000 - CAN Communication Line
U1001 - CAN Communication Line

[ZIPPIN]

Y pipe

[mjk]

Originally Posted by snair2

I didnt want to read everyones posts, but edmunds states that the 5th gen maxima does a 0-60 in 7.8sec and "quarter mile in 15.9 seconds at 89 mph (.4 seconds and a whole mile-per-hour slower)."

http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/compa...1/page011.html

automatic tranny 5th gen 3.0L

[IceY2K1]

Car&Drivers' "BO