I had P0171 and 0174, bank 1&2 lean....took it to the dealer and had it fixed with a new MAF and an ECU update/reprogram under my x-tended warrantee...cost me $100 and its all set now.
When the light came on I had it scanned...and only had the P0171 code. I reset it just to pass inspection and it came back on the next day (of course). By the time I took it in to be fixed (about 3 months later) I had both codes...by then I had the rough idle/cold starts/loss of power thing. All due to the MAF.
I too was thinking injector, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc... but was very glad to hear it was only the MAF.
I have the rough idle/cold starts/loss of power thing, from all the previous posts it looks like the MAF could be the problem. The car runs better when the cel is on but still not very good.
I had P0171 and 0174, bank 1&2 lean....took it to the dealer and had it fixed with a new MAF and an ECU update/reprogram under my x-tended warrantee...cost me $100 and its all set now.
Well, in another thread, I've said that I've pulled P0174 (Too lean bank 2). I've had the hesitation, etc. I stopped by the dealer and they said it would be $75 to troubleshoot the problem, and then after that, see if the problem is covered under my extended warranty (I have the top warranty, elite). So, what exactly was your $100 toward? Deductible? Are you saying the MAF is covered under warranty? Thanks.
Yes, I paid my $100 deductible from my extended warrantee and they replaced the MAF, and reprogrammed the ECU afterwards. At the time I had 71258 miles on the car, so the x-tended warrantee came in handy. I had the CEL scanned at my Dad's shop...got the P0171. I don't think I told the dealer that though, I just said that I had rough idle at cold starts, and less power in the mid/upper RPMs....also had some pinging which is what worried me most....now its all gone due to the MAF replacement. By the time I brought it to the dealer, I had P0174 as well and the cold starts/rough idle turned into stalling, and the power loss and pinging became worse...my MAF wasn't reading correctly, so I wasn't getting enough fuel (I think) to the motor. $100, all set now.
Thanks for the great info, jmal. My car has just over 75,000 miles on it, so it sounds like it's the exact same problem. I'll take it to the dealer, make sure that's the problem, and, hopefully, it should be covered under my warranty (5-yr/100,000 mile).
I had the same problem in my wifey's 2k Max with 130k miles for a few months now with Bank2 running lean. Starts and surges until warmed up, then runs okay, but not great. Reading through all comments in the forums, I just couldn't start throwing part$ at it hoping for a fix.
I discovered that when the coil packs get weak, the car will ping and clatter even with high octane fuel and octane boost, so I replaced them. Fixed the pinging, but still hesitates and surges in the mornings and now will not exceed 4500 RPM willfully. No codes now and I'm frustrated as heck after dropping $509 on new coil packs.
I then swapped the MAF sensor for a known good working sensor from a friends tool drawer and VOILA... it ran like a rocketship compared to before.
After that, I had the computer fuel map reset to default by a Nissan mechanic buddy of mine. The fuel was at 108% before and this resets it to 100% to learn driving habits all over again. We took it for a test drive and got those new Bridgstone Potenza Pole Position front tires nice and toasty. WOW, my power is back.
It would have cost me $260 labor and $940 parts to fix at the stealership and I still think it would have been worth it. If you don't want to drop $400 on a MAF, get one from a salvage yard, try it in a good working car, hnag on to it or keep it for one of your friends that has the same year Max. $20 is better than paying $400 for a MAF. I got mine for free and will get to return the favor to someone the same way some day.
Now I just need to fix that clunking sound in the front passenger area. Next Thread.
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