5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
View Poll Results: What kind or rotors to change to???
Cross-drilled
13.37%
Drilled slotted
16.57%
Slotted
32.85%
Oem
37.21%
Voters: 344. You may not vote on this poll

Those who have changed your rotors...

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Old 02-21-2007, 08:36 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by ghost
alright fellas I just installed front/back cross-drill/slotted rotors with dura last ceramic pads cause those are the only ones I could find over the weekend and I was inpatient. I have two questions, 1. I've search every where I could think of "yahoo images, cardomain, here" and I've seen people put rotors facing both ways as far as the holes/groves go, can't figure which way is right way. 2. Since this was my first time doing brakes I notice that the new pads did not have the metal thingy where the stock hooked up on the clip from the caliper, is this normal? I hear the pads rubbing when Im driving at slow speeds on the freeway by the wall and I think is because they are not retracting back like I think they should plus I see some dust which I know is normal considering that the groves would remove more pad as oppose to blank rotors. Here's a pic of my rotors, I swapt the front rotor to look like the back ones "ones painted blue" I forgot to take pics of the front ones after I swapt em. I'm planning on getting hawks but they're on special order, gotta wait like 3-4 days.

ARE THOSE YOUR oem CALIPERS PAINTED?
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:24 AM
  #122  
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Chinese rotors, $30.00 each, OEM pads. 175000KM driven, 3rd set of rotors and pads.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:07 PM
  #123  
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Drilled & Slotted from R1 Concepts, WOW! Unbelievable difference...wish I had done this upgrade long ago.
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:13 AM
  #124  
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Yeah i had mine for a min and its been wonderful! some people dont like the sound.....but i think it sounds kinda cool when i slow down.....sounds like a plane coming to a stop hahahha.
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:53 PM
  #125  
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cross drilled they crack. Slotted or OEM are good!
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:15 PM
  #126  
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no all cross drilled rotors cracked....depends on what cheap company you go with...even the mercedes has cross drilled that come factory from the dealer and i've seen them last awhile.

I love my rotors....they stopped better than the power slot's i had.
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:42 AM
  #127  
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No option for this in the poll, but I just installed Brembo blanks & Hawk HPS pads. They seem to grab really hard...much better than OEM. I really don't see any reason to pay extra for slotted/drilled. I'm willing to bet 99% of the people who pay for them do it strictly for looks.
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:02 AM
  #128  
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well i guess i'm in the that .1% category, cuz i only paid 180 bucks for ALL 4 slotted/cross drilled rotors WITH brake pads and never had a problem. no warping, hardly any break dust.

True, people pay for looks....but why not have the performance too? and for only 180 bucks for all 4 rotors AND brakes? They work awesome and they grab like their's no tomorrow!
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:02 PM
  #129  
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For rotors, Frozen rotors are best having been through a nitrogen freezing cycle. This is what nascar uses because the technology really works. These are easy to put on and marked for left and right side. HPS performance pads finish up this setup. The frozen rotors have instructions on how to break in and seat the pads as well as properly heat cycling them... $116 tirerack.
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:18 PM
  #130  
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^^ im running standard powerslot slotted premium rotors.......im gonna try the cryo rotors for the fronts next time around
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:00 PM
  #131  
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wow.. . haven't seen this thread in awhile.

To refresh; i have Stillen/Brakepros xdrilled (brembo manufacture) rotors at all 4 corners w/ Hawk HPS pads.

NO Cracking whatsoever.
NO warpage that I can discern. Any vibration that i have in the suspension is from some Tire Cupping and a bent rim I'm living with.
and according to my local shop last week, It seemed like I had plenty of life left on the front pads!

I installed this setup quite some time ago; I think around 65-70k on the ODO, and I'm currently at 124k. Almost 60k on the whole setup and apparently i have significant pad life left. with the amount of heavy braking I do, I am still impressed that it's lasting this long.

Braking performance has declined, but I firmly believe it's because I'm still on my original Shocks, which is probably limiting the effectiveness of acceleration and handling as well.
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:13 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by makavelisk
I have had brembo cross drilled and slotted in the past and they are pointless. They do not make the pad wear less or help you stop quicker. They are for looks unless you upgrade from stock and go bigger then you will notice a difference. For instance the new 05 corvette comes with drilled rotors if you get the upgraded packed and GM says that they do not improve performance they are just looks. The only thing that I noticed on drilled rotors is that they tend to crack by the holes if you are in constant traffic.
I say that you had crappy everything to begin with.
I had brembo drilled and slotted with ceramic pads and stopping was incredibly easy and faster (my old 2000 baby). Even jacking the brakes at 120 I could stop with ease. Try that with stock and see what happens. I've warped my rotors doing that only twice.
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:10 AM
  #133  
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Why is everyone so worried about brakes? It is the the GO pedal you need to worry about...
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Old 05-10-2007, 02:14 PM
  #134  
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How do you kno if you need new pads/brakes? When I brake, the brakes squeak for a good 2-3 seconds and then stop....do i need new pads?
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Old 05-10-2007, 02:45 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by JimmyH
Why is everyone so worried about brakes? It is the the GO pedal you need to worry about...
well if u can't stop doing a buck twenty.....hope u have a nice funeral and RIP...not to mention it takes twice as much force to stop an object with enough built up momentum, as opposed to accelerating the same object's speed......
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Old 05-10-2007, 04:26 PM
  #136  
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Power is nothing without control.
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:01 PM
  #137  
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yea stopping is always good...
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Old 05-11-2007, 07:12 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Trurida18
well if u can't stop doing a buck twenty.....hope u have a nice funeral and RIP...not to mention it takes twice as much force to stop an object with enough built up momentum, as opposed to accelerating the same object's speed......
I drive fast, but I drive responsibly. 165k and stock brakes have always been just fine for me. I admit I hit 120 once or twice, but not very smart in a Maxima.

Originally Posted by dblock75
How do you kno if you need new pads/brakes? When I brake, the brakes squeak for a good 2-3 seconds and then stop....do i need new pads?
Sometimes squeak/squeel is just inherent to disc brakes, nothing you can do about it. If you are down to the limiters, you will know. It is horrible screeching when you brake. If you go too long, horrible screeching whenever you are moving.

A tip: if you do your own brakes, apply disc brake quiet to the BACK of the pads (side facing away from the rotor) before you install. This will stop 99.5% of squeeling. If you dont, tell the shop to apply it. Some shops do anyway.
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Old 05-11-2007, 09:22 AM
  #139  
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new OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads

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Old 05-20-2007, 10:07 PM
  #140  
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these rotors are good:
 
Old 05-20-2007, 10:08 PM
  #141  
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:19 PM
  #142  
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i also like performance of powerslot rotors:
 
Old 05-22-2007, 04:16 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Project323
Whoa. Those are nice. What rotors are those? and did you need a extra bracket of some sort to make the caliper fit?
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Old 05-22-2007, 04:33 PM
  #144  
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By the way, I know it's been mentioned that 6th gen calipers fit on 5.5 gens with no modifications or additions. I didn't find the answer to whether they can fit directly on a 2k with after-market wheels. (I know they don't fit behind the stock 2k wheels)

edit: Nevermind.. I got it.
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