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Old 10-24-2004, 03:12 AM   #1
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Upgrading to stronger 2k1 MAF?

I'm planning to add an aftermarket intake to my 2k2 pretty soon. And I know 2k2's have the weakest MAFs out of the 5th gen...so my question is....if i blow my MAF with the aftermarket intake, is it possible to upgrade mine to say a 2k1 MAF (strongest from what I heard)? and if so, how would it work? I'm pretty sure it's not a direct bolt on part becuz if it was, then all the 2k2 owners who blown their MAFs would pop in a 2k1 MAF and call it a day....but i know thats not the case becuz I heard most people just buy another replacement 2k2 MAF and bolt it right back up....

so how does it work? is it difficult to install a 2k1 MAF onto a 2k2 maxima and MAKE IT WORK?
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Old 10-24-2004, 05:15 AM   #2
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From what I understand, it will work, but you will be driving around with an SES all the time.
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Old 10-24-2004, 10:06 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven88
I'm planning to add an aftermarket intake to my 2k2 pretty soon. And I know 2k2's have the weakest MAFs out of the 5th gen...so my question is....if i blow my MAF with the aftermarket intake, is it possible to upgrade mine to say a 2k1 MAF (strongest from what I heard)? and if so, how would it work? I'm pretty sure it's not a direct bolt on part becuz if it was, then all the 2k2 owners who blown their MAFs would pop in a 2k1 MAF and call it a day....but i know thats not the case becuz I heard most people just buy another replacement 2k2 MAF and bolt it right back up....

so how does it work? is it difficult to install a 2k1 MAF onto a 2k2 maxima and MAKE IT WORK?
My understanding is that the 2k2/3 MAF has temperature compensation, and the 2K1 does not. The temperature compensation is in the form of a wire on the outside of the MAF assembly (but still inside the tube) which is easily removed with pliers and transfered to the 2K1 MAF. Works great with no SES light.
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Old 10-24-2004, 01:04 PM   #4
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Jaws - Really? do you have a 2k1 MAF on your 2k2? And when i transfer that temperature compensation thingy, do I have to solder it onto the new 2k1 MAF? lemme in on all the details..
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Old 10-25-2004, 12:06 AM   #5
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bump 1223435
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Old 10-25-2004, 12:38 AM   #6
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Ok, here is the difference. The 2k/1 maf has a separate IAT sensor (like the 4th gens) and the 2k2/3 have one built into the MAF itself. Do yourself a favor and go get an AM600 meter (they dont break as easy). Ive had the same one for 53xxx miles on my 2k3 and I have had an intake since 12 miles. I have an extra one I could sell you. PM for more info.
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:48 AM   #7
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So the AM600 meter you are talkin about is a direct bolt on for my 2k2? If no, then what would i have to do to make it work?

I would buy that extra one off you, but the thing is.....I don't have an intake yet....and I prob won't until like a month later....and that also doesnt necessarily mean my MAF will blow with that aftermarket intake.....I just know its WEAK but that won't guarantee that it will make mine blow.....so yeah thats why its pointless for me to buy one right now...
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Old 10-25-2004, 04:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
Ok, here is the difference. The 2k/1 maf has a separate IAT sensor (like the 4th gens) and the 2k2/3 have one built into the MAF itself. Do yourself a favor and go get an AM600 meter (they dont break as easy). Ive had the same one for 53xxx miles on my 2k3 and I have had an intake since 12 miles. I have an extra one I could sell you. PM for more info.
Whats the AM600 meter? I have an aftermarket Intake on right now... I had it a year ago and i took it off when my MAF blew... so i might be interested in what you are selling if its much stronger than the MAF i have...

hit me up sometime man... eastsidetunedmaximadriver@yahoo.com
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Old 10-25-2004, 04:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven88
Jaws - Really? do you have a 2k1 MAF on your 2k2? And when i transfer that temperature compensation thingy, do I have to solder it onto the new 2k1 MAF? lemme in on all the details..
It does not require soldering, it just clips in. 15 sec job. The 2k1 MAF is available from Jerry Rome Nissan for $79 with the discount code "Maxima".
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:04 AM   #10
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the AM600 is the 2k3 MAF, and its a direct replacement.
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
the AM600 is the 2k3 MAF, and its a direct replacement.

The BIG difference is the AM600 is over $400 and the 2k1 MAF is $79.
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:48 AM   #12
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Call Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan and order the new 2k1 meter for around $110. Then transfer your existing IAT thermisitor over to the new 2k1 MAF and re-install it. You'll basically have the AM600 MAF once you move the thermisitor over.
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studman
Call Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan and order the new 2k1 meter for around $110. Then transfer your existing IAT thermisitor over to the new 2k1 MAF and re-install it. You'll basically have the AM600 MAF once you move the thermisitor over.
I got one from Dave Burnette it was $83.86 and from Jerry Rome Nissans it was $79, take your pick.
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Old 10-25-2004, 10:29 AM   #14
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So wait....you guys are confusing....I can buy a 2k1 maf but I must transfer my old IAT sensor from my blown 2k2 MAF onto my 2k1 MAF?

But why bother with that when you just said I'll basically have an AM600 if I just transferred my old IAT? I mean couldn't I just buy an AM600 and call it a day? Why hassle when its direct bolt on....

Is it really 400 dollars? From what I read on the .org...the dealers will try to sell you the WHOLE KIT which costs $400 dollars.....but in reality you only need the MAF housing or something.....which alone is $100 dollars.....correct me if i am wrong...
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Old 10-25-2004, 10:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven88
So wait....you guys are confusing....I can buy a 2k1 maf but I must transfer my old IAT sensor from my blown 2k2 MAF onto my 2k1 MAF?

But why bother with that when you just said I'll basically have an AM600 if I just transferred my old IAT? I mean couldn't I just buy an AM600 and call it a day? Why hassle when its direct bolt on....

Is it really 400 dollars? From what I read on the .org...the dealers will try to sell you the WHOLE KIT which costs $400 dollars.....but in reality you only need the MAF housing or something.....which alone is $100 dollars.....correct me if i am wrong...
Yes you can get a 2k1 MAF and transfer the sensor or you can buy the AM600.

However the 2k1 MAF is $80 and the AM600 is approx $400. With the discount the prices are a bit cheaper.

Here is what you can buy and the prices.

For the 2k1 there are 2 MAF's available.
22680AD201 $424.73
226802Y001 $90.11 (This is the one that requires the sensor transferred.)

For the 2k2 there are 2 MAF's available
226806N201 $424.73
22680-AM600 $424.73

For the 2k3 there is 1
22680-AM600 $424.73
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Old 10-25-2004, 12:17 PM   #16
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The 22680-6N201 sensor for the 2002 has been discontinued from the factory, but may still be available from Nissan's regional warehouses. The 22680-AM600 is the only "new order" sensor for the 2002 and 2003. It continues to be above $400.00.

Because of the price, most people order the 2000-2001 sensor and move the thermisitor from the 2002-2003 MAF over to it. This saves you over $300, but requires 5 extra minutes of your time to install it.
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Old 10-25-2004, 12:19 PM   #17
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You can find the AM600 in junkyards for well under $150
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:18 PM   #18
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The 2k1 MAF is different from the 2k?? what makes it stronger than a 2k if so?
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Old 10-29-2004, 09:41 PM   #19
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Same question, how is 2k1 sensor stronger?

I blew my 2k2 sensor couple days ago and today got the 2k1 maf from Jerry Rome for $79,
The size of 2k1 is bigger than 2k2 one, i did transfer the thermistor (soldering it not required but i did it anyway), hooked everything back in place, reset the ECU and everything is working fine, took car for a spin, checked the ecu for any pending codes there were none.

Thank you guys i just saved myself over 300 bucks.

Also seems like the power output is back to normal, before the maf failed it felt sluggish, and idling wasn't very smooth.
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Old 10-29-2004, 09:47 PM   #20
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Finally something better in a 2k1 than 2k2 or 2k3
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Old 10-29-2004, 10:39 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abakalen
Same question, how is 2k1 sensor stronger?

I blew my 2k2 sensor couple days ago and today got the 2k1 maf from Jerry Rome for $79,
The size of 2k1 is bigger than 2k2 one, i did transfer the thermistor (soldering it not required but i did it anyway), hooked everything back in place, reset the ECU and everything is working fine, took car for a spin, checked the ecu for any pending codes there were none.

Thank you guys i just saved myself over 300 bucks.

Also seems like the power output is back to normal, before the maf failed it felt sluggish, and idling wasn't very smooth.
1 - How did you know for sure it was your MAF - I thought I was having MAF problems this summer in my 2k2 - when it was really hot, the car would "stutter" during acceleration while driving in stop & go traffic. Now that it's cooled down some, I don't have the problem at all.

2 - I'm thinking I'll wait until spring and it sounds like I'll probably get the 2k1 - what does this thermistor line look like so I'll know what I'm doing.

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-30-2004, 04:34 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steven88
So wait....you guys are confusing....I can buy a 2k1 maf but I must transfer my old IAT sensor from my blown 2k2 MAF onto my 2k1 MAF?

But why bother with that when you just said I'll basically have an AM600 if I just transferred my old IAT? I mean couldn't I just buy an AM600 and call it a day? Why hassle when its direct bolt on....

Is it really 400 dollars? From what I read on the .org...the dealers will try to sell you the WHOLE KIT which costs $400 dollars.....but in reality you only need the MAF housing or something.....which alone is $100 dollars.....correct me if i am wrong...
Have you checked your current MAF to see which one it is? My 2K2 came with the AM600 MAF (just like the 2k3's). I've had an intake for well over a year and no problems....
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Old 10-30-2004, 04:48 AM   #23
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Well how do you check what MAF I have?
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Old 10-30-2004, 06:03 AM   #24
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The number is written on the housing.

You can also check your manuf date, up until 11/01 they used the old one and from 12/01 on they used the AM600.



Thermister clips in here.

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Old 10-30-2004, 08:03 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtholmanmax
1 - How did you know for sure it was your MAF - I thought I was having MAF problems this summer in my 2k2 - when it was really hot, the car would "stutter" during acceleration while driving in stop & go traffic. Now that it's cooled down some, I don't have the problem at all.

2 - I'm thinking I'll wait until spring and it sounds like I'll probably get the 2k1 - what does this thermistor line look like so I'll know what I'm doing.

Thanks in advance

I didn't know it was MAF up until it blew, i got the check engine and engine wouldn't rev past 2400 RPM, when i pull the codes i found out that it was maf.

In your case it could be something else and not the MAF sensor, usually when sensor fails the check engine light would come on.
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Old 10-30-2004, 02:27 PM   #26
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What I don't understand is why Nissan charges so much more for the 02-03 MAF just becasue it includes the temp sensor. That sensor itself doesn't cost $300, its just a little thermister what gives?
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Old 11-02-2004, 01:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
What I don't understand is why Nissan charges so much more for the 02-03 MAF just becasue it includes the temp sensor. That sensor itself doesn't cost $300, its just a little thermister what gives?
In Jime's pictures above, you will see the entire MAF housing, then the sensor itself. When you buy the 22680-AM600 from Nissan, you'll get the entire housing with the sensor (1st picture). When you buy the 2k1 sensor from Nissan, you'll only get the sensor (2nd picture). So when they add the $300 in price, they are not only adding the thermisitor, but the plastic tube that the sensor sits it, a piece of screening, and a 4-sided circular seal that sits around the groove just outside of the seal.

I'm not sure if you've noticed the prices lately, but that 4-sided circular seal (about 75mm in diameter) isn't easy to come by, so they import it from some outside country. When you add Nissan's 200% markup to that part, then figure in assembly time to integrate the seal into the plastic housing, plus assembly time to install the MAF sensor into the plastic housing, it completely justifies the extra $300 in cost.

Man... you gotta love Corporate America.
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Old 11-02-2004, 02:09 PM   #28
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Actually when you get the $79 one you do get the entire MAF housing, I just received my second one. This is what it looks like. This one got broken during shipping so I just transferred to the old housing.

The instructions that come with this 2k1 sensor says the following:

"The airflow meter assembly must be replaced as a complete unit. Do not remove the element and transfer to the old body."

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Old 11-02-2004, 02:43 PM   #29
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Good info on this thread... thanks guys...

I've had a Berk intake on for around 1000 miles now and have had no problems so far... but if I do, I'll know I won't have to spend $424.73 on an AM-600....
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