Scanner to clock unit wiring write-up
Now here is what the back of the clock unit looks like. If you look closely, you will see that EVERY wire is labeled and tells you what it is. All you have to do is hook it up to the correct corresponding wire.
Now this shows an exact picture of the wiring I have done. The RED wire from the SCANNER connects to the Yellow/Red wire. The YELLOW wire from the SCANNER connects to the Green Wire (The picture shows me splicing a black wire, that is because I had to extend the original yellow wire from the scanner.) The last wire left on the scanner is BLACK, that I just grounded to the sunroof bolt under the sunglass holder. No need to extend that wire all the way down to the clock unit for NO reason.
This will work and is the correct way to wire the scanner. It will blink or do whatever pattern when the car is off or armed. When the car is turned on, the scanner turns off.
Hope this helps and solves everyones problems. Simple install, but I think some of you got confused. Now everyone can have knightrider style SCANNERS.
Black-out chrome window trim
I used a product manufactured by
TRIMBRITE Products . It's kinda like a vinyl tape with adhesive that's flat black in color. It comes in a roll 1 3/8 in. X 20 ft. The item/product number is T-9005. It's made specifically for blacking out chrome window trim. It's relatively easy to apply, if you have patience, because you'll have to cut the tape, cuz it's too wide. The most difficult areas to do are around the front window (side mirror) and the rear door window. The curves are too sharp for the tape to bend around, so it must be cut into two or three pieces to make it around.
Installation directions:
1. Apply only at temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16-27 degrees Celcius).
Note: Do not apply to a hot surface or in direct sunlight.
2. Clean application area thoroughly. For application over pre-painted moldings, remove all paint elements first, exposing the base metal surface.
3. Cut tape oversize to the length of application area.
Note: From personal experience, I recommend that you leave approximately 0.5 millimeter extra around the edges. I installed mine in the summertime, and since it's black and subjected to heat and direct sunlight, I found that it shrinks less than 0.5 millimeters over the course of a few months. I have some very small gaps, but they can't be see from the side of the vehicle, unless you're a few feet away and looking directly down at the seams.
4. Slowly remove backing paper as you apply. Carefully rub firmly into molding contours or over edges.
Note: Avoid creases or bubbles in film.
5. Trim excess tape with a knife or razor blade. Repeat as required.
Note: Be careful not to cut too deeply into the window trim or rubber moldings, as the razor will easily cut through them.
6. Do not wash vehicle or subject it to abuse for approximately 48 hours.
7.
Good Luck & Enjoy Your Tight Ride!!!
If you have any additional questions, feel free to PM or email me.
PA, Philly, South Jersey, Delaware, DC caravan to the meet
00-01 HID Conversion
H4 HID Kit w/o beam correction.(MUST)
Silicone Sealant
3M Moulding Tape
Two (2) Balloons
Philips Screwdriver
Before Proceeding, Understand Everything:
Remove Factory Fog Lights. Be careful to remove fog light plug or cut harness so you keep both ends of the harness.
Disassemble fog light unit. Remove H3 bulb, and bulb clip.(Small Philips.)
H4 HID Kit w/ metal rings or H4 HID kit w/ injection molded base.
*Please becareful when inserting the HID burner, as the H3 opening is tight, and the HID capsule will be a tight fit, and take care not to break the ceramic shield.(I broke 3 in this process.)
VERY IMPORTANT:
Look at the back of the housing, how the inner part is round. You must shave a little off the 3 prongs to hold the HID burner in place in the housing. To view the position of the ceramic shield, face the lens side towards you and rotate til you can see the ceramic shield, which should face down. Adjust accordingly so you don't make contact w/ the housing.(The housing will melt if the ceramic rests on the plastic housing part.)
The HID burner should be snug against on the "perch" where the H3 Bulb clip was.
As you position the HID burner, be very careful.
Once in place, use silicone to seal the HID burner in place, and let dry for a few hours.
Cut a Balloon to fit the back of the housing, and add a bead of silicone to seal the deal.
Make a cut in the middle of the balloon, and wrap the balloon around the HID Burner base.
Optional: The "cap" on the back of the factory fog light can be used as a "lock ring" on top of the balloon to ensure 100" sealing. You must cut off the rear of the "cap" so it remains flush.
INSTALLATION:
Attach the HID plug to the HID Burner Base, to ensure fit.
Use 3M Moulding Tape on the underside of the HID Ballast.(3 Strips should be used) Place the tape on the opposite side of the power input and HID output on the bottom.
HID Ballast in first and route plug through the right side of the Fog Light "cage" (Driver as well as Passenger side.)
Attach the HID plug to the HID burner base.
Insert the fog light housing, make sure to line up the alignment dowels.
THE HOUSING WILL PRESS AGAINST THE BACK OF THE FOG LIGHT "CAGE."
You must add some pressure to get the 10mm screw on the bottom of the housing. Once that is in, the wiring harness should be spliced in, and FOG FUSE MUST BE CHANGED to 30A~!(Located under the dash on the left side.)
Please test to ensure wiring was done correctly, correct if needed.
Mount Ballast on top of Fog Light "cage"(Please clean the top part w/ rubbing alcohol) as it will press against the metal bumper reinforcement.
The pattern on the floor will be wide, and pattern on the wall will be bright as well as the sides.
Even w/ HID Headlamps, HID Fog lights will light the sides even more, and any space that is not covered by HIDs in the headlamps in front will be covered.
-Please don't blind friends who drive in front w/ your HID Fog lights. They will cause alot of glare.
Credit: yo_its_ok
Knocking sound when I turn right.
Proper headlight aiming procedure
Here is a website that will help you aim your headlights correctly for any car. The key is what the website says about having the car 25ft from the wall and aiming it on the wall correctly. But remember the key also is to be on a level ground, even the slightest amount of unlevel ground will make it so the headlights are off.
http://www.autooptiks.com/aiming.html
This can be done on the 2K2 hids by turning the white plastic nut on the back with a 8mm wrench. On the 2K-2K1, there is a small metal nut on the back that need to be turned.
Dixit
Stillen RSB Additional Comments
When installing a Stillen RSB on a 5th gen:
The 2001 and 2002 has a different ABS line cover than the 2000.
You will notice the Blue Bracket from stillen does not fit over the ABS line holder because of a small tab sticking out.
Your Options (Choose one):
1. Remove the whole abs bracket, Stillen said this was ok as the blue brackets were designed to protect the ABS line
2. Cut tab off (Use a dremel or tin snips)
3. Bend nub down with a mallet(what I did incase I want to return to stock)
4. Get abs holder from 2000
**the ABS line should go BEHIND the blue brackets. Stillen cut a grove for the ABS wires to fit. Also make sure you follow the directions on how to install the bolts to prevent brake line rubbing**
Email me if you need more info!
Stealth running lamps
Eliminates the AMBER running lamp filament on the 1157 bulb used for a 2K-2K1 headlamp, but still uses the blinker filament. This mod makes the headlamps only produce white light until the blinker is activated, which looks better in my opinion especially with clear front corners.
1)Remove the bulb/socket from the headlamp housing.
2)Remove the bulb from the socket.
3)Place SMALL piece of black electrical tape over
ONE "knub"(small contact on bottom of bulb).
4)Reinstall bulb into the socket.
5)Turn on hazards(or blinker with keys in ignition). If it flashes reinstall bulb/socket into the headlamp housing, if not, remove bulb from the socket and move the electrical tape to the other "knub".
More spring/strut swap information
These instructions were posted earlier by Punkdork. I have copied his steps and added a few of my own notes for further detail and a few comments by ArcticMax after his experience. I did swapped struts and springs with Tokico and H&R. I did most of the project myself, and it is possible. I did part of it with a buddy of mine who ditched me after about an hour. It would have been much easier had he hung out, so find a friend for this one or plan to spend the day with your car in the air.
For rear:
- Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- Remove the trunk liner.
- There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat. There is a metal guard over the bolts...don't bother trying to remove the guard...it will require removing a lot of crap you don't want to remove.
- Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center. This process is a huge pain-in-the-***, but not nearly as hard as tightening the bolts later.
- Remove the large bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). At this point, the strut will fall, so hold on to it.
- At this point, you should loosen the top hat bolt (DO NOT REMOVE). Once the spring has been compressed, the top hat will rotate the entire strut rod, and if you haven't loosened the bolt it will be a PIA to get off later.
- Compress the spring.
- Remove the top hat mechanism.
- If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
- Do steps above steps in reverse. After attaching the top hat mechanism, spin down the bolt a bit (the strut rod will begin spinning with the bolt), once you decompress the spring you will be able fully tighten the bolt much easier.
For front:
- Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift).
- Remove the front wheels.
- Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut.
- Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut. They are 14mm
- Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). The bolts are 19mm and the nuts are 17mm. It will be easier to do this with a break bar and wratchet combination.
- Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3).
- Remove the strut assembly from the car.
- Compress the spring.
- Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt). Watch yourself as you remove the center bolt as the top coil on the spring will likely "pop" up as soon as the bolt comes off...it can catch you off guard and be dangerous if you're not ready for it.
- If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
- Do above steps in reverse. I was unable to reattach one of the brake lines, however the lines seem adequately held by the two clips.
Note from ArcticMax: Keep in mind, when replacing the strut assembly that the trailer arms can be moved up and down to help align the bolt at the bottom of the assembly behind the rotor. Don't struggle with it too long...just push up or down on the rotor or trailer arm and the bolt hole will move for you.
Enjoy.
00-03 shift console install on 00-01 MT only
Email me for questions or if the links don't work.
2K2 Shift Console Install Pics
Installing 2K2 shift surround console on 2K-2K1(M/T ONLY)
Parts Required: $78.xx + shipping includes console with shift boot, silver ring, and ashtray/ashtray light. Call David Burnette(Nissan Parts Guru) (888)254-6060.
Tools Required: (1)Philips and (2)Slot screw drivers.
Remove OLD console:
1) Put gear shift in 4th gear and remove shift knob.
2) Remove ashtray liner.
3) Remove PHILIPS screw(inside bottom of the ashtray).
4) Grab
REAR portion of shift boot hole and pull upward till snaps let go.
5) Grab sides of
FRONT portion of shift boot hole and pull upward till snaps let go.
6) Slide the console down and back to clear the front lip.
7) Unsnap the
3 electrical connectors:
- Cig. lighter and ashtray light are simple.
- Hazard button has a push button snap on the
drivers' side white portion of the connector.
8) Remove OLD console.
Install NEW console:
1) Unsnap the Hazard button on the OLD console and push it out the
FRONT side of the console.
2) Push it through front side of the NEW console and secure the snaps.
TRICKY Part: Removing the cig. lighter
3) Pry upward with the 2-slot screw drivers on the North AND South tabs of the BLACK plastic piece, while pushing the METAL piece of the cig. lighter from backside through the frontside of the console until removed.
4) Unsnap BLACK plastic piece.
5) Install the BLACK plastic piece
FIRST into the NEW console.
6) Slide the metal piece from frontside into the BLACK plastic piece on the NEW console.
7) REVERSE the installation steps used to remove the OLD console.
Note: The 2K1 Anniversary Edition pedals and shift knob are also available from Dave B.. Feel free to email questions or comments. Thanks.
Q&A Thread
How to recognize VIAs issues - 00-01s only
Look guys - there are only a few ways to establish if you have a vias problem (that I know of). The threshold is - do you have a power loss problem that you can feel ABOVE 5K RPMS? That is the only time VIAS makes any difference. If so, this is what you do:
First, is to determine if the VIAS APPEARS to be functioning from the engine compartment. To do that, locate the actuator and the rod that moves the flaps inside the vias. It is located under the rectangular black box on the driver's side of the intake manifold. You will see a copper colored piece of metal that comes out of the Variable intake and then turns so that it points to the front of the car. You will need to look UNDER the box. When you hit 5k, that piece is pulled up by the actuator. You can visibly see it move. Best way to test is to just push on the throttle under the hood and rev it up until it the valve moves. If it never moves (and you get to 5k) you've definitely got a problem. If it does move, Nissan will tell you that you don't have a problem.
Second, VIas is only a factor after 5k rpms. So, find AN IDENTICAL maxima to test against. You can't test against Legends. Also, it is very hard to test against other cars when you are modified. If you've got mods, the other guy should have the same mods. Roll each other in 3rd gear (don't bother with 1 and 2) and you should be even until 5k rpms at which time the car without the problem begins to walk away and continues on into 4th.
Third, disable your VIAS system and drive around - do you notice the difference above 5k. If no difference, then you've got some kind of VIAS problem. If you feel a difference there is nothing wrong with your VIAS.
My solution to pillar pods..
Credit: Max_Gator
Installing AE MT pedals on 00-01
As for the difficulty on installing the AE pedals, they are a PITA until you figure out how.
The EASY part:
---------------
The gas pedal/arm is a complete unit and you simple push with your fingers from the back side of the cable until the plastic retaining snap comes through and the pedal is released. Unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the spring/plate and intstall the new pedal.
The PITA part:
----------------
Slip off the brake and clutch(if 5-speed) covers. Slide the top part of the AE cover onto the pedal. Then use a VERY small flat head screw driver to slowly pry the remaining rubber lip around the edges of the pedal. I tried to use grease, heat, and finally I just had to pry to get them on.
I thought the gas pedal was going to be the hard part and the covers were going to be like 5 mins, boy was I mistaken.
Removing condensation from side markers
Start with obtaining some desiccant. You can obtain some online at
SafetyCentral,
Dessicare, or
Desiccant City to name a few. You can do it one of two ways:
Non-heating method
If you don't want to put your clear sidemarker in the oven, then obtain silica based desiccant. Put the sidemarker(s) in a small plastic storage container with tight fitting lid and place a few packets of the silica desiccant within the container or pour the dessicant directly into your marker and set aside for a few days. Check on the markers after two days and if more time is required (depending on the atmospheric conditions in your locale) then check daily or every other day until the moisture is gone.
Heating method
This procedure requires the use of heat to remove the moisture. Set the oven to about 110 degrees Farenheit and place some clay based desiccant within a pie pan and cover the pan with foil. Fill the pan with enough to cover the bottom, and maybe just a little bit more. Set this pan aside. Place the clear sidemarker(s) on top of a cookie sheet and place it in the oven for about 30 minutes. At this time check to see if the moisture is gone. If it is not, put it back in the oven and check the markers in 15 minute intervals until the moisture is gone. Once you see it dissappear, or become less within the sidemarker, take the marker(s) out of the oven and put the marker(s) into the pie pan and cover with the foil. Any of the moisture within the marker(s) should be absorbed by the desiccant. If after this, you still see moisture, repeat this procedure, except in 15 minute intervals and not 30 minutes like the initial drying.
After removing the moisture
After you have removed the moisture (and cooled the markers down if need be), place a bead of clear silicone along the edge where the opaque portion meets the translucent portion of the marker. Let dry for 24 hours, or by the recommendations of the silicone packaging and then you're ready to go!
Delayed headlamps rewire for 00-01s
This rewire will allow the headlamps to have the full 40 second delay (when in 'ON' position not 'AUTO') after you turn off your ignition and will NOT be cancelled when you open one of the front doors. It will also cause your retained accessory power to last the full 30 seconds (approx) and also will not be cancelled when opening either of the front doors.
What you will need:
Wire cutters/stripper
Phillips Screw Driver
About 10' of 18 Gauge Primary Wire
Electrical Tape
Optional: Wire Taps (or just splice and tape)
There are a couple of things that you will lose by doing this mod:
The interior lights will no longer have a delay when you open the driver's door but you will still have the interior light delay when you unlock the doors with the remote.
The 'chime' for key-in-ignition will no longer work but that shouldn't matter since you should always lock your car with the remote (with keys in-hand) anyway. Your anit-lock-out-protection
WILL STILL WORK. (If you try to lock the doors with the key in the ignition and with a door open the doors will still automatically unlock.)
Essentially what you will be doing in this mod is making the SECU (Smart Entrance Control Unit) think that a rear door is being opened when you open one of the fronts.
Directions:
Driver's Side: Open Driver's door and pull off the panel just inside the car where the carpet goes under. (The door seal is next to this panel) Start pulling at the rear of the panel and it should come up easily then pull it the rest of the way off...the forward end goes up towards the fuse box. Also remove the same panel in the left rear floor-board. Behind these you will find a bundle of wires. VERY CAREFULLY expose about 3" of the wires by cutting the tape in the front and rear bundle. Now confirm the color of wires going to your door-open switches. With a screw driver..remove the driver's door door-open switch. The wires going to this switch should be BLACK and a SKYBLUE W/WHITE STRIPE. Remove the rear door-open-switch. There should only be one wire going to the rear door switch: RED W/WHITE STRIPE. Replace switches. Go back to bundle of wires IN FRONT and CUT the SKYBLUE W/WHITE STRIPE wire. Tape off the end of the wire going towards the front of the car--it will no longer be needed. Strip the other end of the wire (switch side) and splice about a 4' long piece of wire to it. Run the wire under the B-pillar to where the wires are exposed in the rear. Cut off any of the excess of wire that you ran and splice & tape/or tap into the RED WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE.
Test: Turn ignition until all the dash lights come on--Turn headlamps all the way to the "ON" postion--Turn ignition to off--Headlamps should stay on for 40 seconds even if you open the driver's door. The retained accessory power will also stay on for the full 30 seconds allowing you to operate windows or sunroof even if you open the driver' door. Tape all of the wires up and scure them and re-install panels.
Passenger's side: Remove panels and expose wires like you did on the driver's side. Confirm wire colors going to both passenger's side switches. Front passenger's should be BLACK and a RED W/DARK BLUE STRIPE (different from driver's side). Rear should be RED W/WHITE STRIPE (like the driver's side). Cut the RED W/DARK BLUE STRIPE in front and tape off the part going to the front of the car. Strip the other end of the wire (switch side) and splice about a 4' long wire to it. Run wire to rear (like you did on driver's side) and splice/tap into RED WIRE W/WHITE STRIPE.
Test: Now the headlamps and retained accessory power should not be cancelled when you open the front passenger's door. Tape up and secure all wires and re-install panels.
Exporting OBD-II logs into Excel
Only applies to
Alex Peppers' software from
http://www.obd-2.com.
The advantage of exporting the data to Excel once your back home on your PC, is that you can use Excels' graphing capabilities to plot RPM vs. TPS, RPM vs. Spark Advance, etc.. or ANY two variables for that matter. There are ENDLESS possibilities to what you can do with this information. It may take some time to figure out what's useful and what's not, but I think this can be a HUGE help on tuning a car to it's maximum potential withOUT the use of a dyno.
The information is available, we just need to figure out how to use it!
Notes:
*You MUST already have a *.log file from a scan to do this.
*I recommend you perform this in a "Top-Down" order or else you might not end up with the same results.
Part 1(Converting your *.log file to a comma delimited *.prn file):
-----------------------------------------------------------------
1)Start the OBD Scanner.(obd2.exe)
2)Choose File->Open from the drop down menu.
3)Choose Your_File_Name.log that you want to export to Excel to graph.
4)Once the player opens, press "Play".(Sometimes it says "No vehicle info here try again", but press "Play" anyways)
5)Once it's finished, choose File->Export from the drop down menu.
6)Select your file and change the drop down window "Save file as type:" to ","delimited",data *.prn".
7)Change the "Folders:" window to where you want Your_File_Name.prn file to be saved.(just put it on your desktop)
8)Choose "OK".
9)On the "data export" pop-up window click on the "scale" arrows and choose your desired time stamp units, an example I choose is "h:m:s"(hours:minutes:seconds). However, if you choose a large amount of data to graph, it gets too crowded to read, so you might use just “s”(seconds) or “m”(minutes), etc..
10)Choose "OK" and check that Your_File_Name.prn is located on your desktop.
11)Close the OBD Scanner(obd2.exe).
Part 2(Importing the comma delimited *.prn file into an Excel spreadsheet):
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1)Open Excel(I’m using Excel from Office 2000, so yours might be slightly different)
2)Open Your_File_Name.prn from your desktop.
3)Choose "Delimited" from the "Text Import Wizard" Pop Up Window.("Start import at row:" = 1 and "File origin" = Windows by default)
4)Choose "Next".
5)Only check the "Comma" box under the "Delimiters" section.(Nothing else should be checked!)
6)Choose "Finished".(Don't worry about the next step, just choose "Finished")
Your data is now sorted in an open Excel spreadsheet. The first 2-columns and some of the rows are usually empty. Now it depends on what you want to graph and how good you are with Excel. Excel does NOT like me, so don't expect me to give you too many pointers. Just mess around with it till you get something useful.
Part 3(One of MANY different ways to graphically view log data):
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
First, there are two columns for each variable(RPM, TPS, IAT, etc..). The LEFT column is the time stamp, ET(h:m:s), and the RIGHT is the variables name such as, RPM(rpm).
Second, you should delete ANY holes(blank spots) in the columns your about to graph. For example, if I choose RPM, I have to scroll down the RPM column and delete the blank cells in both the ET and RPM column(DELETE as pairs or you'll change the data!). You don't want these blank cells, because they will end up as zeros(invalid points) in your graph. Just highlight both empty cells, right click, select delete, and choose ok. Do this for any columns you plan on graphing.
Example(CRUDE!) to show how to graph 2-variables, RPM and SPKAD, on the SAME chart(RPM = Revolutions Per Minute and SPKAD = Spark Advance in degrees):
-----------------------------------------------------------------
RPM
1)Choose Insert->Chart from the drop down menus.
2)Choose the "Custom Types" Tab from the Pop-Up Window.
3)Choose "Lines on 2 Axis" actually Microdork spelled it Axes.
4)Choose the "Series" Tab from the Pop-Up Window.
5)There should NOT be anything listed in the "Series" window, if there is, select it and chose "Remove". Otherwise, it will screw your graph up.
6)Now choose "Add" to add your first series(column).
7)Click in the "Name" field and type RPM.
8)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Values" field.
A "Source Data - Values:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
9)Click on the first RPM numerical value(NOT the column header) in the RPM column and drag the stretchy box to include all the RPM values listed.
10)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data - Values:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.
11)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Category (X) axis labels:" field.
A "Source Data - Category (X) axis labels:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
12)Click on the first ET numerical value(NOT the column header) in the ET column
to the LEFT of the RPM column and drag the stretchy box to include all the ET values listed.
13)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data - Category (X) axis labels:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.
SPKAD
14)Repeat Steps 6) - 10) for SPKAD .
15)Click on the mini Excel Icon next to the "Second category (X) axis labels:" field.
A "Source Data – Second Category (X) axis labels:" window appears and now your at your spreadsheet.
16)Click on the first ET numerical value(NOT the column header) in the ET column
to the LEFT of the SPKAD column and drag the stretchy box to include all the ET values listed.
17)Click on the mini Excel Icon of the "Source Data – Secondary Category (X) axis labels:" window and your back to your "Soure Data" window.
Optional Steps(Helps to clarify data)
1)Click “Next”.
2)Add RPM vs. SPKAD in the “Chart title:” field.
3)Add Elapsed Time(h:m:s) in the “Category (X) axis:” field.
4)Add RPM(rpm) in the “Value (Y) axis:” field.
5)Leave “Second category (X) axis:” field blank.
6)Add SPKAD(degrees) in the “Second value (Y) axis:” field.
Cont’d
-------------
18)Click “Next”.
19)Choose “As new sheet”.
20)Click “Finish”.
Questions&Answers:
Thread 1 Thread 2
How to install SMC STS on 00-01 w/o removing cat
00-01 SMC STS w/o removing the Cat~!
I believe this got deleted, so I'll post it up again
Thanks to Champs Tech NYC, for use of facilities.
Angel R.
Richie P.
Hogan J.
Victim's Car: ToyLet 902
Tools:
3/8" Air Gun or Long Handle Rachet
3/8" 10mm Socket
3/8" 12mm Socket
3/8" 14mm Flex Joint Socket
3/8" 14" extension
Philips head Screwdriver
Slotted Screwdriver
#1 PUT CAR INTO 4th GEAR~!~!~!~!~!~!
Shift Knob removal:
Pull down boot, use Vise Grips to clamp on to the shifter.
Use Channel Lock Pliers, and a shop rag. Wrap the shop rag around the shift knob, and use the Channel Lock Pliers, and twist left to loosen.(Righty Tighty,Lefty Loosen..)
Remove Shift knob, you will need to use the Channel Lock to turn the shift knob since it is very stubborn to come off.
SMC's CONSOLE REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Remove shifter console by pulling up on the edges of where the shift boot is facing the cup holders.
Open Ash tray, and remove, there is a screw beneathe it and remove it.
The shifter console should be able to be pulled out and freed using a pull towards you and lift the end of where the cup holders are.
Move to passenger side.
LIFT THE CAR UP.
Remove the (8) 12mm Bolts so that the crossmember can be dropped that is covering (2) of the (5) 10mm bolts retaining the heatshield.
Move to heatshield out of the way.
Looking at the shifter mechanism, remove the rear(most) bolt that retains the shifter's "axis point." 14mm 3/8" Gun w/ 14" extension and "flex" 3/8" 14mm socket.
Remove the 13mm Nut and bolt that retains the shifter linkage to the shifter unit.
Pull down on the shifter linkage and there is a spring attached to it, so becareful. Move it to the driver side of the car, allowing slack on the spring.
(2) 10mm nuts retain the shifter "pivot point", and remove those. The Shifter Unit is still retained by the Stabilizer Linkage.
THE TRICKY PART. (PITA)
With everything tucked away, and all retaining of the shifter are free, turn the shifter 90 degrees right.
If you had put the car into 4th gear in the beginning, this will be easy.
Push the Stabilizer Linkage up with the Shifter Unit, and push the bottom of the shifter unit up, so it will slip through the Stabilizer Link's Hole. Once it is through, the shifter is free.
THE PROBLEM, and THE FIX.
You will be looking at the shifter mechanism, and see the pivot point and retainer seem to be one piece.
From the top of the Shifter Retainer, use a medium sized Flat Head Screwdriver, and start working in a circle along the inside of the Shifter Ball Retainer. After a few minutes the Shifter Ball Retainer, and Shifter unit will pop through.
RE-INSTALL.
Adjust the SMC to desired height, and throw.(All the way up on ToyLet's Car.)
Lube the Shifter Ball Retainer.
EASY WAY:
Place Shifter Retainer on top of Stabilizer Linkage. No nuts yet.
Place STS up the Stabilizer Linkage Hole.
The STS Ball will pass through the Stabilizer Linkage hole.
Take Shifter Ball Retainer, and "wrap" around the STS Ball.
Had you lubed the Shifter Ball Retainer on the outside, it should slide into the Shifter Retainer w/o a problem. Wipe off excess grease.
(2) 10mm Retaining nuts, and bolt down the Shifter retainer.
Now that the Stabilizer Link and the STS are in place, return the Shift Linkage to the bottom of your newly installed STS.(Please remember to use SMC's Included Hardware.) 13mm Nut and Bolt.
Push Shifter unit up to re-install the rear "Axis Point" 14mm retaining bolt.
PLEASE REMEMBER THE SHIFTER RETURN SPRING~!~!(I almost forgot.)
THE HEATSHIELD.
If you aren't too tired, or you're frustrated on how much of a task this was, take a hammer, and make a "channel" down the middle for the STS which will probably be lower than your Stock one.
Reinstall (5) 10mm bolts.
FINALLY.
Reinstall Crossmember (8) 12mm bolts.
Drop the car down, and play with your STS.
If will be very stiff, give it about 10-15 minutes of pretending to be some lunatic who just stole the car, and beat on the STS for a while.
After you're done w/ your "session".....go have some fun w/ powershifting, and hell-toe downshifting, double clutching.
Credit: yo_its_ok, ChimpDj aka Hogan
Installing front wheel studs
For a pic of what studs look like..
Click Here
Installation Instructions:
To install studs you have to take off caliper (2 bolts in back 14mm). Take out both brake pads. Take off bracket that caliper was attached to (2 big 19mm bolts behind rotor). Slide rotor off to see plate that studs are attached to. Hammer out stud that you want to replace. Stud will come out from behind plate (I found it better to replace all 5 b/c mine didn't look good, some had ridges that were missing). Once you hammer out the stud, you will have to put car in neutral with e-brake on so you can turn plate. There is a piece of metal behind the plate(which I believe is a dust cover. Best way to describe it is that it is a half circle that has a small circle on the other half. The small circle is where you can pull the stud out at. So you have to turn each one to this small circle, take out old stud and install new one. I sprayed WD40 into each hole that stud goes into before I installed new ones. You will need to hammer the new one in. The edge of the small circle will get bent when you hammer. Once your done you can use the back of hammer to bend it back. Once all studs are in put rotor back on, caliper bracket, brake pads, then caliper. Before you mount wheel you can use antiseize on studs to help prevent studs from breaking again..
02-03 Urethane Motor Mount Swap
This install guide only applies to the 2002 6-Speed Maxima. Although these directions may apply to other models, I do not have experience with any other model. Author is not responsible for installation woes - perform this install at your risk.
Homemade Front and Rear Urethane Motor Mounts using 3M Windo-Weld
1.Unless you can afford 3-4 days of downtime, get new or used front and rear motor mounts.
2.Drill a hole into the center of both of the mounts just below the center bolt. You may want to drill two holes so that it’s easier to get the Windo-Weld in there. Do the same to the pocket above the center bolt.
3.Drain all liquid that is contained in there.
4.Remove as much of the loose rubber on the top half of the mount that you can. Do not remove any of the bottom half (you should only have a hole or 2)
5.Once the mounts are stripped of all loose rubber (I only stripped the loose rubber on the rear) and completely drained, get some brake cleaner and clean the mounts up. You want them as dry as possible.
6.Inject the mounts with as much Windo-Weld as possible. The stuff is thick and hard to get out – but keep filling the top half and the hole in the bottom until there is no more room to add more.
7.Use a putty knife to smooth out as much as possible. Try to remove any air pockets if you can.
8.Let them dry for about 3 days (I did it on Weds and installed them on Saturday).
9.I found that putting them in the oven on low heat (~100 degrees F) worked wonders for hardening them up.
Changing the Front and Rear Motor Mounts for 2k2 6-Speed
Tools needed:
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
17mm socket
WD-40
6” Extension (for the 2 rear center member bolts)
1.Jack up the car by placing the floor jack at the jack point on the center member (page GI-46 in ESM) and putting jack stands on the side jack points.
2.Once the car is jacked up by the jack stands, place the floor jack under the transmission housing close to the center member. Only jack it up until you see the transmission start to rise. DO NOT JACK IT UP ANY HIGHER. You are only looking to remove pressure from the motor mount bolts.
3.Remove the front splashguards if you have them and spray all motor mount bolts with some WD-40 or equivalent.
4.Start to loosen (only loosen – do not take them out) the 2 bolts that are connecting the rear mount to the center member. Do the same for the front mount. *Unlike 4th gen Maximas; you are able to reach all motor mount bolts from under the car. *
5.Remove the center bolt going through the motor mount in the font and rear. You may need to adjust how high you have the floor jack to insure the bolts slide out easily.
6.Once you have both motor mount bolts removed, the center member can now be lowered. To do this, you simply need to take out the 2 bolts in the back and the 2 bolts in the front that hold the center member to the car.
7.Now you should have the center member removed with both mounts still connected. Simply remove the mounts from the center member.
8.Now you are ready to attach the new mounts. Attach the rear mount first and torque the 2 bolts to 70ft-lbs (page EM-60 is a good reference). You will see that it is very difficult to torque the rear bolts down with the center member in place due to the tight space on the passenger side of the motor mount (exhaust in the way).
9.Do the same with front except do not torque the bolts down. You may need the few mm of play to fit it up to the motor.
10.With the rear mount completely attached and the front mount attached fairly snug, put the cross member back into place with the rubber disc on the passenger side inside of the mounting bracket attached to the motor. It helps if you start the front and rear center member bolts just enough to hold the member up.
11.Line up and install your center motor mount bolts and torque them to 70ft-lbs.
12.Once your front motor mount bolt is secure, go ahead and torque the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the center member down to 70ft-lbs.
13.After all motor mount bolts are torqued to 70ft-lbs – you are ready to torque the center member bolts to 70ft-lbs.
14.Once all bolts are torqued to spec – you can remove the jack holding the transmission
15.Have a beer – and check out the new mounts and reduced wheel hop!!
Brian
How To install INJEN intake:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/ColdAir.htm
How To install UR UDP:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/2K2UDP.htm
How To install MT-90 for MANUAL transmission:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/MT-90.htm
More UDP information
I installed a prototype ASP underdrive and here are some instructions I wrote for the job along with the belt lengths I used on my 2K2. If I had it to do again it would be a piece of cake!
1. If a lift if not available jack car up sufficiently to perform work under car. Use jack stands for safety.
2. Remove front passenger wheel and tire.
3. Remove passenger side plastic splash guard for easy access to pulley.
4. Loosen 12 mm locking bolt on power steering adjuster. Head of bolt is facing toward inner fender well, perpendicular to adjuster bolt and just to the rear of power steering pulley. Access to this bolt is best from under car.
5. Loosen 14 mm power steering pump rotator bolt on engine side of pump. It is accessible behind rear precat with a swivel or series of swivels and long extension from center of vehicle. The oil line to the oil filter is directly in line with this bolt.
6. Turn 12 mm adjuster bolt clockwise, as in tightening, to loosen belt. This bolt faces towards the ground and is located on bottom of adjuster. Use a long extension and swivel for access.
7. Loosen 14 mm ac/alternator tensioner pulley bolt. This bolt is in the center of the pulley and holds the pulley to the tensioner bracket. With bolt loose tensioner pulley is free to slide up and down on bracket within the limits of the 14 mm adjuster hex bolt. Turn 14 mm adjuster bolt counter clockwise to loosen belt and clockwise to tighten.
8. With both tensioners in the loose belt position, remove both belts.
9. Use a pneumatic impact wrench remove 19 mm center bolt holding crank pulley to shaft. Pulley is free to remove.
10. Use motor oil to lubricate ASP underdrive crank pulley seal ring on pulley hub. This insures lubrication to the crank seal when installed. Install pulley by hand locating keyway groove to key. Insure that pulley bottoms out on the crank shaft.
11. Reinstall crank bolt and torque to 140 ft/lbs. Locktite 242 thread sealer is recommended on threads.
12. For ease of belt installation, adjust both belt tensioners to insure plenty of free play to belt. Install Gates belt part number K040292 (or equivalent) on power steering and K060408 on ac/alternator. Insure both belts are properly positioned in grooves in all pulleys.
(I'm guessing on this one, I just tighten it until it felt right to me. Might have to refer to shop manual for belt tightening)
13. Tighten belts until belt has 1/4" movement at center of belt. Do not over tighten. Remember the power steering pump 12 mm bolt turns counter clockwise, as in loosening, to tighten belt.
14. Reinstall splash guard and wheel.
HOW-TO INSTALL STREET SCENES MAIN GRILL
(aka SS Grill ; aka stillen grill that they sell on their site for 00-01 maxima) OVER OEM GRILL is now on my webpage @
www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6 (page 7)
02-03 reverse indiglow gauge install
Tools needed:
Screw driver
Wire tap or wire splices
Electrical tape
Parts come with the reverse indiglow gauges
-One white gauge face
-Converter with dimmer and color switch
1- Unscrew 2 screws at the top of the dashboard inside where the instrument cluster is.
2- Pull out the plastic that is around the instrument cluster that is holding in the gauge cluster into the car (need some strength at this part)... after pulling this out you will have to disconect the dimmer switch and mirror plugs from behind it.
3- You will see 3 screws are holding the cluster, unscrew those. Take out the cluster and unplug 3 plugs behind it.
4- The clear plastic cover is attached to the cluster with maybe 10 little snaps all around the whole thing... just release them.
5- Detach the gauge divider, u will see how to detach it right away when u see it
6- THIS IS THE HARDEST PART, YOU MIGHT BREAK YOUR NEEDLES IF YOU DO NOT BE EXTRA CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS!! Pull out 4 needle stoppers (Fuel, MPH, RPM, and Temp) Slide the new gauge on the old gauge. The MPG and RPM needles are hard to slide in, the trick for doing this is try to slide the needles holes underneath all the needles first (make sure ur fuel and temp needles are already slide in), make your MPH and RPM needles point up and carefully pull down the new gauge until the end of the MPH and RPM needles to get in, then pull the gauge up again to the original position. Put back the needle stoppers just simply press them down
7-Do step 5,4,3 inversely to put the cluster back to the car
8-There are 4 little plugs from the converter, connect whatever u want to the new gauge
9-Use the wire tap or wire splices and tab the red wire from the converter with the green-red wire from the dimmer switch plug. Tab the black wire from the converter with the black wire on the dimmer switch plug. Test it and see if the gauge lights up. Wrap the electrical tape on the wire taps.
10-Now try to find a good spot to install the new gauge's dimmer and color switch whereever you feel confertable
11-Do step 2 and 1 inversely to put the plastic surrounding back and you are done.
HOW-TO on installing Clear LED Brake Light on OEM Spoiler.
Check out page 8 @ my homepage:
www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6
How-To Remove OEM Stereo and/or Install FM Modulator to OEM Stereo is Done. Check out my homepage:
www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6 (page 10)
Pads and rotors
My notes from rotor and brake pad swap without disconnecting brake lines or bleeding brakes.
Brake Install Notes:
Tools/Equipment:
- Jack & Jack Stands
- Impact Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench
- 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & ratchet
- C-Clamp
- Rear Piston Compression Tool
- Mechanics Grease or Anti-Seize Grease
- Brake Cleaner
- Rubber Mallet
Front:
- Put the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
- Remove the bolts holding the upper piece of the caliper on...14mm...these came off without any effort...slide the caliper off and hang it on the coil of the spring.
- Remove the brake pads...they pop right off...pay attention to the way they are seated.
- Remove bolts holding the lower piece of the caliper on...19mm...these require some elbow grease to remove, but I did not need any liquid wrench or a breaker bar...slide the second caliper piece off and set aside.
- Remove the rotor...requires some rocking and tapping to remove...my stock rotors did NOT have a bolt hole easy removal so I did some light tapping on the back side with a mallet as I turned the rotor.
- Install new rotor...clean up the wheel hub first and rub some grease around the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting onto the hub like the stock one.
- Reinstall lower piece of caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up 19mm bolts good and tight.
- Install new brake pads...ensure that you remove the backing plates off the old pads and install them to the new pads.
- Compress the piston on the upper piece of the caliper...loosen cap on the brake fluid resevoir by the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay to make piston compression possible...use a clamp and equally distribute pressure as you compress...watch for brake fluid overflow.
- Reinstall upper piece of the caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up the 14mm bolts marginally (remember how easy they were to remove).
You're all done. Differences for the rears:
- You must remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount for the emergency brake cable to get the upper part of the caliper off...underneath the caliper.
- Lower piece of caliper is held on by 17mm bolts instead of the 19mm on the front.
- Piston needs to be turned clockwise to be compressed...I suppose you could use pliers, but you can buy a small piston compression tool which hooks on to a ratchet and makes life really easy...the one they sell at Sears has a piston pattern which fits the rear calipers on the Maxima.
- Make sure you hook the emergency brake cable onto the spring mechanism before reinstalling the upper caliper piece as it will be hard to hook back on after the caliper is assembled.
Quaife install and differential bearings
INSTALL(
Credit JAY25):
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=52
Shortcut(
Credit: ericdwong):
Hi everyone!...looking for first Max
Quote:
Great tranny news- if rebuilding/swapping differential BIG short cut
OK Brian ran this by me last night and today as I was pulling the Quaife I decided to try this. SO- this goes for anyone replacing diffy bearings or the differential all together (quaife). Instead of dissassembling the ENTIRE freaking transmission which can take anywhere between an hour or longer, while you can skip ALL of that.
For those familiar in the tranny this is all you gotta do: Take the outer case off the tranny. Once inside, remove the speed sensor. Turn the tranny to its side and pull on the input and output shafts, to give them enough play. Theres probbaly 1/4" to 1/8" play but its enough. Simply grab a hold of the Quaife/open differential and pull and it comes right out. NO MORE TAKING APART AND REASSEMBLING THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh yeah, and my Quaife will be for sale soon, complete with speedo gear, final drive gear and 2 almost new bearings.
So this also means- if you need your diffy bearings changed and a tranny shop wants to charge you 10 hours of "dissassembly labor" tell them they are FOS.
|
Start removal, re-grease, and install
Just a disclaimer....I am not responsible for any mechanical, electrical, or other damage resulting from following these directions. This is at your own accord.
Start Removal/Installation & Re-greasing:
Estimated Time: 1.5 hours
Tools Needed:
--Metric sockets: 10MM, 12MM, 14MM, & 17MM (deep sockets)
--3/8” (recommended due to tight space) or 1/2” drive with small extension.
--Philips head screwdriver
--Hi-temp multi-lube silicone grease
--Brake or carburetor cleaner
--Nissan ESM or FSM (not required, but highly recommended, look at page SC-19)
All steps consider person at the front of the car facing the engine bay.
Part I: Start removal
Step 1: Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Step 2: Remove intake assembly. (I suggest removing everything up to the throttle body, you will need the room.
Step 3: Detach harness protector that is above the starter and to the left of the battery. This is quite difficult to do without breaking. I ended up breaking mine, but it wasn’t that big of a deal to me because I didn’t feel the need to have the harness clamped in. But if you want to remove without breaking take your time and be patient, you have to separate the protector clip from the mounting bracket.
Step 4: Disconnect starter harness connecting the start solenoid to the power supply wire using a 12MM socket or open ended wrench.
Step 5: Loosen upper 14MM bolt with a deep 14MM socket and 3/8” or 1/2" drive. Requires some force to be removed.
Step 6: Loosen and remove lower 17MM bolt with deep 17MM socket or a 17MM socket and extension. This requires a lot of force to remove.
Step 7: Pull starter away from engine at a slight downward and away angle. This requires some maneuvering to remove from the engine as there is little room to work with. Removal of the battery may help in this situation, but I didn’t end up having to remove the battery.
Part II: Disassembly & Cleanup of the Starter
Step 1: Using brake or carburetor cleaner clean the outside housing of the starter and the solenoid.
Step 2: Remove the solenoid using a 10MM socket on the two 10MM bolts. Loosen the top bolt connecting the power supply cord. Carefully remove the solenoid from the starter. Keep a close track on the parts as to how they came off and where they go. These parts do not need to be re-lubed unless you have excessive mileage (probably 75K or more). Mine did not require to be re-lubed, the grease was still viscous and not hardened.
Step 3: Remove the rear cover from the starter using a Phillips head screwdriver on the two screws. You might notice a lot of copper filing and dried grease in the cover. This should be cleaned.
Step 4: Remove the two 10MM Through-bolts.
Step 5: Carefully pull apart the upper assembly containing the charging elements of the starter. This includes the brush assembly, armature assembly, yoke assembly, and center bracket. Clean the yoke assembly and center bracket with brake or carburetor cleaner. The brush assembly and armature assembly can be cleaned with compressed air, or stiff bristle brush. Keep track of the parts and how they were removed.
Step 6: Remove the internal gear, packing, and planetary gear. These need to be cleaned and re-greased with high temperature grease.
Step 7: The rest of the starter should come out basically as one piece. I would suggest leaving it as is, except for re-greasing the pinion shaft as much as you can. The intricate parts such as the rings requires special tools and in my opinion are not worth acquiring for this task.
Step 8: Clean gear case assembly.
Part III: Starter Assembly
Step 1: Assemble the starter. Keep a close track on the parts. I re-lubed the packing, planetary gears, and internal gear as I re-assembled the starter. Be sure to line up the holes in the center brackets, yoke assembly, and brush holder assembly. They need to be aligned so the Through-bolts can reach the bottom of the starter and be tightened.
Step 2: Replace the starter solenoid. Be sure to assemble all parts in the correct configuration!
Step 3: Tighten all bolts. From the ESM there are torque specifications, but I tightened all bolts finger tight and then 1/4 turn.
Part IV: Starter Installation
Step 1: Put start back in place using the reverse order of removal instructions. Be sure to finger tighten all bolts before tightening them down all the way!! Use the deep sockets to get the bolts started, unless you have small hands and can start the bolts without the sockets. Finger tighten 14MM, 17MM, and 12MM bolts. Tighten 12MM bolt connecting the power harness to ½ turn more than finger tight or per the required torque specification. The 14MM and 17MM bolts tighten with a large amount of force.
Step 2: Re-install harness protector.
Step 3: Re-install intake.
Step 4: Reconnect negative battery terminal.
Start the car and enjoy the whine free sound!
Stillen Aero Kit Install
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=158868&page=7
Credit: 2maxguy
2002-2003 Nissan Maxima UDP Installation Instructions
Change color of ignition light
see page 12 of my homepage:
www.cardomain.com/id/kpazzo6
Engine Compression Test
1. Remove Fuel Pump fuse and then started the car a few times to make sure all the excess fuel has been used (fuse located below the steering wheel to the left, you have to remove the panal to see the fuses)
2. Remove Fuel injector fuse, (located in the same panal as the other fuse, diagram of which fuse is what is on the otherside of the panal)
3. Remove all the spark plugs (check out the "installation / how to" thread for spark plug removal instructions), I don't really think it matters if you remove all of them or take them out one by one.
4. Screw in the compression guage to where your spark plug would normally sit in and crank the engine 5 times. (NOTE: make sure you crank the engine the EXACT same number of times as the other cylinders otherwise your reading will be off! Each extra crank you do, the pressure will go up higher) According to the manual your pressure should be at 185, 145 minimum with an exceptable difference of 14 between each cylinder.
Additional Notes: You can buy this kit at any regular auto store, i.e. Pep Boys, Kragen (I bought mines at Kragen), it was about $40 for the kit. The Kit comes with instructions but are kinda confusing and geared torward older cars. What I listed above are the exact steps I did to perform this test on my 5th gen Maxima.
MOMO shift knob and boot install
i originally wrote this for clipse, but thought it could be beneficial to everybody!
--SHIFT KNOB/BOOT
1)unscrew the stock shift knob (lefty loosey)
2)unbutton the top of the stock shift boot
3)carefully remove the trim piece surrounding the stock shift boot (jus' pry it off)
4)remove the trim piece from the shift boot, and slip it out (don't throw it away, you'll use it as your template for the new shift boot)
NOTE: before cutting, make sure you leave enough room so that you could shift through ALL gears (leather does NOT stretch)
5)using the stock shift boot, carefully cut the new momo boot to the right length leaving about 1/2inch extra, just in case (use something sharp like a utility knife for a clean cut)
6)use this same utility knife to cut the little holes to attach the boot to the stock trim piece
7)on top of the momo shift boot, there is a plastic ring inside the leather...turn the shift boot insdie out and carefully remove this plastic ring (making sure not to pull too hard that you would rip the seams)
8)after the ring is removed, turn the momo boot right-side-out
9)test fit the boot around the reverse lock ring (jus' slip it right over and it should fit snug, very snug)
10)now put the momo shift boot on the trim piece using the holes and lining them up with the tabs on the trim piece
11)slip it over the shifter to make sure you have it in the right way (test fit and shift through ALL gears)
NOTE: before using the super glue, make sure everything is lined up first and that the momo emblem on the shift boot faces you!!
12)once you are confident it will fit, apply a small amt of super glue to the reverse lock ring (where the boot goes around, not your fingers!)
13)carefully put the trim piece back in place and secure with a rubber mallet ensuring there are no gaps between the trim piece and the leather
14)now, for the shift knob, slip the larger spring onto the threaded portion of the shift
15)place the shift knob on the shifter and center
16)tighten the allen screw on the back of the shift knob until the shift knob will not move
--EBRAKE/BOOT
1)use a hairdryer (or heat gun, preferred) on the stock e-brake handle for approx 2-5 min (all areas of the handle must be hot/warm to the touch)
NOTE: be careful just how hard you pull and don't hit your hand on anything like the radio, steering wheel, etc!
2)PULL on the e-brake handle (if it's still too hard to remove, jus' use the blow dryer again)
3)that's all you have to remove
4)slip the momo boot over the e-brake
5)SLIP the momo boot into the rubber trim around the e-brake handle (remember, SLIP it in, you don't need to remove the rubber trim around the e-brake handle)
6)if you had a piece of rubber hose, you could slip it over the e-brake handle and test fit the momo handle, OR you could use thick string to wrap around the handle and then use tape to secure it (jus' remember to test fit the momo handle to make sure it doesn't move around!)
7)slip the rubber adapter piece into the e-brake handle
8)if you've got it snug enough, you'll have to PUSH (and i mean PUSH) the handle into place...if you're simply slipping it into place, add more string!
NOTE: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE ALLEN SCREWS ON THE E-BRAKE!! they will crack!!
9)tighten the allen head screws (only three are needed, choose the long ones)
NOTE: there's a funny looking rubber squarish shaped thing that went around the momo e-brake handle....that won't be used
10)slip the e-brake boot over the e-brake handle and ensure all the allen head screws are covered, and that's it!
hope it helps! if there are anymore questions, jus' ask! sorry i couldn't post step-by-step pictures...
n1cK!
how-to and pics on tinting your taillights:
http://www.kevinfisher.net/web_serve...light-mod.html
FSTB install
Here is my write-up for installing a Front Strut Tower Bar/Brace. (The link to the write-up mentioned on Page 4 didn't seem to work.) Installation is very easy and shouldn't take one more than 20 minutes.
Good luck. Peace.
-----
TOOLS NEEDED:
A. Socket Wrench
B. Torque Wrench (set between 32 to 38 ft-lbs)
C. 14mm Socket (deep)
ADDITIONAL/HELPFUL TOOLS:
A. Additional tool(s) required by the maker of the FSTB
B. Rubber Mallet
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Keep the car on level ground, pop open the hood, and look at your engine bay.
2. With the socket wrench and 14mm socket, remove the three gold nuts from each of the front strut towers. If the nuts will not come off easily, try using a rubber mallet to the wrench.
3. Test fit FSTB brackets over the tower bolts. The bolts are not equal distant from each other so each bracket can only go to a certain tower.
4. Put the gold nuts back on. Tighten them loosely.
5. Attach the FSTB to the brackets. Adjust distance/height accordingly and tighten the bar to the brackets with whatever size tool required by the maker of the FSTB.
6. With the torque wrench and 14mm socket, tighten the gold nuts to the correct torque. Nissan recommends 32 to 38 ft-lbs. Do not tighten more than that or you risk damage to the bolts.
7. Close the hood and start the car.
8. Run the windshield wiper fluid to be sure the FSTB is not impeding the flow of the fluid tubes under the hood.
9. Take the car out for a spin.
NOTE FOR '00/'01 MAXIMAS:
With some FSTBs, the driver-side bracket may not allow the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch to clear. If this is the case, add the following steps between steps 3 and 4 above:
I. The Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch is held in place by a plastic clip attached to a metal bracket. Reach underneath the metal bracket and release the plastic clip.
II. Flip the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch upside-down and attach the plastic clip from the underside of the metal bracket. This should not affect anything, and the clip should remain in place just fine although there is now almost no wire and tubing slack.
III. Now the Swirl Control/Valve Control/Vacuum Check Switch should be underneath the metal bracket instead of over it, allowing the driver-side FSTB bracket to fit.
NOTE FOR '02/'03 MAXIMAS:
For '02/'03 Maximas, there can sometimes be problems where the FSTB will not clear the intake manifold collector when the car is in reverse which will cause a knocking sound. If this is the case, add the following step between steps 2 and 3 above:
- Place a 3/8" or 10mm washer over each tower bolt.
COMMENTS:
- Most people will agree that the FSTB does not provide a night-and-day difference in performance. The bar is there to help reduce chassis flexing when the car corners and to improve steering response a bit. Most people combine this mod with a Rear Anti-Sway Bar (RSB), and it is this mod where one will feel the most difference. For the Maxima owner who doesn't plan on changing the stock springs, shocks, or struts, the FSTB and RSB combo provide a great and relatively inexpensive one-two-punch for suspension improvement.
- FTSB prices can range from $15.00 (generic on eBay) to $190.00 (Stillen) / $195.00 (Cattman). Depending on the make of the bars, they are constructed of either hollow aluminum (RaceSonic, Autobacs1, Bomz, etc.), solid aluminum (Otto, Aerospeed, Stillen), or titanium (Cattman). All the bars do the same thing, so the prices differ more for looks, not performance.
DISCLAIMER:
The above instructions are meant as an installation guide. I cannot and will not be held responsible for any damage or injury caused by the following of this write-up. Always be prepared with the proper equipment/tools and confidence before attempting maintenance, repairs, or modifications to your car. Safety first...urgency of everything else second.
if you dont have a bose from the factory all the wiring is different, its not just plug and play, and no one sells the harness not even the dealer. just put in a nice aftermarket and call it a day. by the way schocse makes a nice dash kit, it matches dash color and has a pocket or double din.
Linear Mode
