5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Anybody know what these are and how to remedy them?
PO445 = short circuit condition exists in the elec. circuit for the purge control valve in the evap. emissions control sys
P1448 = ELC system 2 fault
4 posts and they are talking about thread bumping.. not actual solutions. thats why there are so many thread on the SAME topic. b/c people complain more than offer solutions. Really, what happened to the nice forums where you actually get help ? i miss those grand am forums i was on 10 yrs ago! <-- thats a joke, relax!
anyway, i have a 1448 code.. came on, i tightened cap, cleared code, 1 month later, light on again... hmm.. i've been searching all forums w/ no luck.
Bump. I had P0455 before, but messed with the gas cap and the SES light went away. Yesterday, about 3 months later SES light kicks back on. I got the codes read and P0455 along with P1448 came up. I know what the codes stand for, but not really sure what I can do to fix the problem. Ive searched and found a few threads on these two codes, but not many solutions.
Ive got 140K+ mileage on the car but have maintained it well since ownership @ 31K mileage. Can I please get some help fellas?
Bump. I had P0455 before, but messed with the gas cap and the SES light went away. Yesterday, about 3 months later SES light kicks back on. I got the codes read and P0455 along with P1448 came up. I know what the codes stand for, but not really sure what I can do to fix the problem. Ive searched and found a few threads on these two codes, but not many solutions.
Ive got 140K+ mileage on the car but have maintained it well since ownership @ 31K mileage. Can I please get some help fellas?
I've got the same codes. Its the valve attached to the canister, its stuck.
The car runs just fine though with these codes, the guy at the nissan dealership told me to just live with it, until I go for emissions(a year away).
I changed the gas cap, and that didn't fix it, I looked over all the hoses and there wasn't any cracks. I even checked the charcoal canister for cracks. The last bet is to replace it, because I tried to take the valve off to clean it, but I ended up snapping the bolts(I could try drilling them out).
The dealer wants around $300 for just the parts(add in $90/hour labour). I'm not doing that, I'm just going to pick one up from the scrapyard for $20 valve + canister its worth the gamble.
I had the p0455 code read out as EVAP system leak large.
I brought the max to a local shop and they ran a "gas or smoke" test by passing a colored smoke through the fuel system and finding out what the problem was. As mentioned before the purge valve/solenoid on the canister was stuck open.
I was experiencing worse gas mileage than usual and the interior of my car was always smelling like gas (not cool)
Dealership prices were about 350. However i went to www.everthingnissanparts.com and bought a new evap can and solenoid for 250 shipped. The install was very easy to do myself
I would have bought just the solenoid but the canister is so poorly designed and located by the rear tire that the bolts that hold the valve on are ALMOST ALWAYS rusted in which was also my experience.
To prevent the rusting of my valve bolts again, i put silicon around the valve as well as on the bolt heads.
the website i mentioned had the lowest price and was easy to deal with
The code has since gone and not come back
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20" chrome VCTs-- Nuvi ashtray install -- D/S rotors w ceramic pads -- clear corners -- basic white LED swap -- clear tails w red, amber and white LEDS -- debaged -- Sarona front bumper w custom fogs-- Flowmaster exhaust -- 12" kicker/300w Audiobahn/JVC mp3/Sirius--FSTB --
Thanks for the help fellas. I need to get this fixed ASAP since I have to pass emissions before Nov.
scottygill, thanks for your post. Can you elaborate on how easy the install/replacement was? Do you have a "how to?" Do you have part #s? I'll take a look at my solenoid and canister and see if the bolts can be turned without breaking the bolts. If so, I may just replace the solenoid as you mentioned.
Jack up your car in front of your rear driverside tire so you can slide in under the rear bumper. Youll need a ratchet w a 10mm EXTENDED socket if you have one, a pair of fat head pliars and thats about it. The pliars are used to pinch the simple metal clamps that attach the hoses to the can. You pinch the tabs and slide the clamp back a ways. Then wiggle the hoses off the tabs/nozzles. Sometimes i used a flat head screwdriver to slowly work the hoses back. Its pretty self explanitory which hoses go to where, but i took a cell phone pic of what my canister looked like installed before i took it off just to be safe. Once the hoses are off, disconnect the one wire clip.
There are three 10mm bolts holding the canister on in a triangular position. Two top one bottom i think. Its doable with a non extended socket but you have a lot less room with the hoses and wheel well in the way.
If you buy your parts from http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...issanparts.com you will need to go to lowes and get two bolts to attach the solenoid to the canister. I believe the thread pattern is soemthing like 6mm. I brought my canister into lowes and used their hardware chart/ loose bolts to figure out which one i needed. MAKE SURE YOU DONT GET ANYTHING TOO LONG OR ELSE IT WILL BOTTOM OUT AT THE BACK OF THE CAN AND WONT PULL THE SOLENOID TIGHT. i dry fit the solenoid in the can then stuck a pentube in there and marked how deep it went and got bolts a little smaller than that.
I attached the solenoid witht he bolts then put a ring of silicon around the part where the solenoid meets the can so water wouldnt go in that way. I also put silicon around the bolt heads. If i ever need to remove it for any reason it should just cut and pick away.
Removal is opposite of install, you might want to wear some glasses or goggles during removal as a lot of crud is going to fall in your face/eyes.
Goodluck
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20" chrome VCTs-- Nuvi ashtray install -- D/S rotors w ceramic pads -- clear corners -- basic white LED swap -- clear tails w red, amber and white LEDS -- debaged -- Sarona front bumper w custom fogs-- Flowmaster exhaust -- 12" kicker/300w Audiobahn/JVC mp3/Sirius--FSTB --
I still have a few quesions so feel free to chime in if anyone has any additional info on this. I just got off the phone with Dave B. and he stated that I can just replace the stuck open valve (part# 14935 5M00B). He said that in the event that the bolts holding the evap canister break, then I would need to replace it, but otherwise the valve is the only thing that needs replacement. On top of that, he said that the solenoid should not need replacing, which is good because it cost $170ish. Im gonna crawl under the car and see if I can loosen the bolts holding the evap canister this weekend and if I can, I guess I'll just replace the valve and call it a day. Got experience or opinions on this matter? Lemme know and thanks in advance.
Even if the bolts break you can you pry the valve off(its not easy but I got mine off), and just slide the new one in and put silicone around the edges and where the bolts were to hold it down.
If your lucky you can clean your old valve and get it working again.
I managed to get the canister + valve + solenoid for $10. It took me a few different scrapyards in the area to find a working one though. It helps to have a little 12 volt battery and a resistance tester(aka voltage tester) to test the valve and coil inside the valve.
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I do things the Polish way.
Currently drive:
2003 Nissan Maxima SE
1986 Pontiac Parisienne
I still have a few quesions so feel free to chime in if anyone has any additional info on this. I just got off the phone with Dave B. and he stated that I can just replace the stuck open valve (part# 14935 5M00B). He said that in the event that the bolts holding the evap canister break, then I would need to replace it, but otherwise the valve is the only thing that needs replacement. On top of that, he said that the solenoid should not need replacing, which is good because it cost $170ish. Im gonna crawl under the car and see if I can loosen the bolts holding the evap canister this weekend and if I can, I guess I'll just replace the valve and call it a day. Got experience or opinions on this matter? Lemme know and thanks in advance.
Getting the P1446 and P1448 codes several times over the past year I've lubricated the valve at least 4 seperate times. Before I removed those 2 rusted bolts I sprayed PB blaster and let it sit for a few minutes. It may make it easier but I didn't have to raise the vehicle nor remove the drivers rear tire. After removing the plastic shield you just need an extended 10mm socket and pliers to get the valve off. Since I need an inspection this month I decided to replace that old rusted valve so I baught a new one on ebay for only $88. The local dealership wanted $150. I purchased it from this website:
Update: I purchased the evap control vavle new from Dave for $81 and change. I installed it this past weekend, reset my ECU and the light never came back on. I went to Auto Zone to check for any pending codes and nothing showed. I went and got emissions done yesterday without any problems. So, in the end, it cost me ~$82 plus shipping and 30 mins of my time to fix this. I have nearly 144K on the odo and my Maxima is still running a champ!
same here.. replace the canister and the valve.. got it from the dealer.. even with dealer discount it still costed a lot.. i didnt wanna deal with junkyard parts.. might have a hairline crack on the canister or something.. but yeah .. best to replace both the canister and the vent valve when this light comes up..
__________________ SHIFT_bboy
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Btw... I DON'T think you need to fix this to pass emissions.
All you do is simply reset your ECU right before the emission test. The SES light will not come back right away. In my experience it takes it at least a couple of hours of driving for the code to appear again. Clear it in the parking lot of the place you get your emission test done. No SES, no problem. This is not actually going to affect your emission results.
Instead of fixing this, I bought myself an OBDII scanner (for a lot less) to check my codes regularly (since my SES is on most of the time because of this).
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dizmaz96 - I wasnt about to purchase/replace the evap canister ($163) if I didn't have to. I would have if the problem was not resolved with the evap control valve. Apparently, the stuck open control valve is a known problem. Unless cracked, the evap canister is usually only replaced because the 2 bolts holding the evap control valve snap off, requiring a new evap canister.
metalpiotr - If that works for you, keep on keeping on. People have been doing that for years and "emissions" has been catching on. I believe right after an ECU reset/code deletion, the #'s are skewed and can be detected by not having enough previous information to properly diagnose. That is why a lot of places like Auto Zone will only read codes and not erase them since people with SES/CEL come into get them turned off instead of getting the problem fixed right before they get their emissions done.
Btw... I DON'T think you need to fix this to pass emissions.
All you do is simply reset your ECU right before the emission test. The SES light will not come back right away. In my experience it takes it at least a couple of hours of driving for the code to appear again. Clear it in the parking lot of the place you get your emission test done. No SES, no problem. This is not actually going to affect your emission results.
Instead of fixing this, I bought myself an OBDII scanner (for a lot less) to check my codes regularly (since my SES is on most of the time because of this).
I guess that depends on state. When you clear codes what you're really doing is an ECU reset. This resets all of your monitors' statuses as well. This takes some driving in order for these monitors to register as 'completed'. At least in Illinois, you need to have these monitors report 'completed' to pass emissions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gotendbz1
can someone post a picture of solinoid and vent control valve?
Look under the car behind the driver's side rear wheel. You'll see a black plastic box...that's your EVAP canister. There's 2 or 3 vacuum tubes & an electrical connector going to that box. The electrical connector connects to the valve, which is secured on the box by two bolts.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | MAF (2k1 w/swapped thermistor)
my engine light came back on P0445 after a while so i said what the heck, might as well replace the gas cap which cost me like 15-20 on ebay. Fixed the code
The messed up part is that i had the smoke test done by my mechanic (who i wasnt that familiar with afterall) and they diagnosed the solenoid i guess trying to "F" me.
my new theory is to always change the cap first. Would have saved me $250
i guess i need to find a new mechanic
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20" chrome VCTs-- Nuvi ashtray install -- D/S rotors w ceramic pads -- clear corners -- basic white LED swap -- clear tails w red, amber and white LEDS -- debaged -- Sarona front bumper w custom fogs-- Flowmaster exhaust -- 12" kicker/300w Audiobahn/JVC mp3/Sirius--FSTB --
An honest mechanic would have suggested new gas cap first or you could have asked here.
HOWEVER, your symptoms did not point to gas cap per say. How many tanks have you ran after replacing the cap? Remember, ECU checks for those codes rarely and only under some specific conditions such as tank over 1/4 full but under 3/4 full etc.
You are not out of woods yet. I am assuming you reset the code by yourself; if the code went off by itself, then you are in clear!
HOWEVER, your symptoms did not point to gas cap per say. How many tanks have you ran after replacing the cap? Remember, ECU checks for those codes rarely and only under some specific conditions such as tank over 1/4 full but under 3/4 full etc.
- Vikas
Thanks for the thought, I do believe im in the clear because its been a while since i got the cap and i created similar fill/mileage conditions from before as after and it has not come back.
As to whether or not it was intentional by the mechanic, i think im just going to start looking for references, i didnt have much history with them to begin with so my loyalty isnt that strong.
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20" chrome VCTs-- Nuvi ashtray install -- D/S rotors w ceramic pads -- clear corners -- basic white LED swap -- clear tails w red, amber and white LEDS -- debaged -- Sarona front bumper w custom fogs-- Flowmaster exhaust -- 12" kicker/300w Audiobahn/JVC mp3/Sirius--FSTB --
so I see alot of Nissan Maxima Vapor Canister Vent Valves on Ebay but none for a 2002? Will the 2001 or 2003 fit a 2002 I35? I'd hate to get the wrong part.
funny thing is after a couple of months with the SES light on, it mysteriously went off for about 30 minutes and then reappeared! I did not touch the gas cap. Sure sounds like a sticky soleniod...
If the anti-polution device is failed what good is it? I think Nissan should pay for replairs since it is A) an emission control device and b) everyone is having the same problem
funny thing is after a couple of months with the SES light on, it mysteriously went off for about 30 minutes and then reappeared! I did not touch the gas cap. Sure sounds like a sticky soleniod...
Those 2 codes were off & on in my case for a while til it stayed on. Changed the canister & valve & hasn't come on since.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | MAF (2k1 w/swapped thermistor)
<-- thats a joke, relax! 
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