My impressions of the Hotshot Headers
03-03-2004, 08:57 PM
#82
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 470
Originally Posted by 1SWT02
Thanks, if #'s were corrected my car would be 251HP/237TQ.
03-03-2004, 11:19 PM
#84
I just did this install for an individual tonight in about 5 hours. Overall they fit nicely and do look even better than my Cattman headers but there are a few grips I have with them.
First, the front header has the O2 bung in the WRONG place. It's to far down the runner and the primary O2 sensor will not reach it unless the cord is extended or the plug is removed from it's holder and left to dangle. This is a pretty farkin STUPID thing for Hotshot to do. Why they didn't just locate the O2 bung farther up is beyond me as there is plenty of room for it.
Second, where are the detail paper instructions? I know I don't need them but how on Earth is Joe Blow who's never done them before supposed to know to put the blue corded primary O2 sensors in the headers and only extend the secondary white and red corded O2s to mount behind the main catalytic converter?
Third, apparently they must have run into some quality control issues during manufacture because only one of the header flange holes is the correct size on each side. The rest of the flange holes are well oversized which I presume is to allow for adjustment so it can be made to fit with it's Y pipe. This is really a dumb way to build them because it does not guarantee proper alignment of the exhaust ports where the header mates to the cylinder head. This issue is going to cause many to lose power and end up thinking they wasted their money.
A set of headers needs to have a Y pipe that can be adjusted to fit the headers, NOT the other way around.
Fourth, what is the deal with this cheap **** paper thin flange at the end of the Y pipe that connects to the catalytic converter? It appears to bend with minimal clamping force which isn't enough to crush a gasket thus it leaks like a sift.
Fifth, I noticed that at least one of the header nuts didn't seat on the flange but instead was clamping down on a weld that was in the way. This is another quality control issue that needs to be resolved. My Cattman headers came with special slotted washers to prevent this very problem.
Sixth, yes this one is me being **** but come on. This is a JAPANESE car that is loaded with METRIC bolts. Why is it so dang difficult to include METRIC bolts in the kit? They aren't made of gold or anything and are readily available. It's too annoying to have to dig up SAE sockets when you're already tooled for Metric. It makes no sense at all to mix things up like that. And this goes for the rest of you Y pipe and header manufacturers. There is no excuse you can give me that I will accept on this one. We have Metric cars put together with Metric bolts which we take apart with our Metric tools. STOP GIVING US SAE BOLTS WITH YOUR KITS ALREADY!!!
More on the install;
You do not have to remove the radiator to do a header install. All you really need to do is unbolt the radiator and fan assembly. Then lift the radiator up enough to remove the fan assembly. Once the fans are out of the way there will be more than ample room to remove the front exhaust manifold. It is also wise to cover up the back side of your radiator with cardboard once the fans are gone so that you don't beat the crap out of it when you remove the manifold.
I have taken off the exhaust manifolds of this vehicle in just about every feasible way and my thought is that supporting the engine and removing the engine cradle and the rear engine mount is by far the easiest way to get the rear exhaust manifold off the car.
First, the front header has the O2 bung in the WRONG place. It's to far down the runner and the primary O2 sensor will not reach it unless the cord is extended or the plug is removed from it's holder and left to dangle. This is a pretty farkin STUPID thing for Hotshot to do. Why they didn't just locate the O2 bung farther up is beyond me as there is plenty of room for it.
Second, where are the detail paper instructions? I know I don't need them but how on Earth is Joe Blow who's never done them before supposed to know to put the blue corded primary O2 sensors in the headers and only extend the secondary white and red corded O2s to mount behind the main catalytic converter?
Third, apparently they must have run into some quality control issues during manufacture because only one of the header flange holes is the correct size on each side. The rest of the flange holes are well oversized which I presume is to allow for adjustment so it can be made to fit with it's Y pipe. This is really a dumb way to build them because it does not guarantee proper alignment of the exhaust ports where the header mates to the cylinder head. This issue is going to cause many to lose power and end up thinking they wasted their money.
A set of headers needs to have a Y pipe that can be adjusted to fit the headers, NOT the other way around.
Fourth, what is the deal with this cheap **** paper thin flange at the end of the Y pipe that connects to the catalytic converter? It appears to bend with minimal clamping force which isn't enough to crush a gasket thus it leaks like a sift.
Fifth, I noticed that at least one of the header nuts didn't seat on the flange but instead was clamping down on a weld that was in the way. This is another quality control issue that needs to be resolved. My Cattman headers came with special slotted washers to prevent this very problem.
Sixth, yes this one is me being **** but come on. This is a JAPANESE car that is loaded with METRIC bolts. Why is it so dang difficult to include METRIC bolts in the kit? They aren't made of gold or anything and are readily available. It's too annoying to have to dig up SAE sockets when you're already tooled for Metric. It makes no sense at all to mix things up like that. And this goes for the rest of you Y pipe and header manufacturers. There is no excuse you can give me that I will accept on this one. We have Metric cars put together with Metric bolts which we take apart with our Metric tools. STOP GIVING US SAE BOLTS WITH YOUR KITS ALREADY!!!
More on the install;
You do not have to remove the radiator to do a header install. All you really need to do is unbolt the radiator and fan assembly. Then lift the radiator up enough to remove the fan assembly. Once the fans are out of the way there will be more than ample room to remove the front exhaust manifold. It is also wise to cover up the back side of your radiator with cardboard once the fans are gone so that you don't beat the crap out of it when you remove the manifold.
I have taken off the exhaust manifolds of this vehicle in just about every feasible way and my thought is that supporting the engine and removing the engine cradle and the rear engine mount is by far the easiest way to get the rear exhaust manifold off the car.
03-04-2004, 04:21 AM
#85
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I just did this install for an individual tonight in about 5 hours. Overall they fit nicely and do look even better than my Cattman headers but there are a few grips I have with them.
First, the front header has the O2 bung in the WRONG place. It's to far down the runner and the primary O2 sensor will not reach it unless the cord is extended or the plug is removed from it's holder and left to dangle. This is a pretty farkin STUPID thing for Hotshot to do. Why they didn't just locate the O2 bung farther up is beyond me as there is plenty of room for it.
Second, where are the detail paper instructions? I know I don't need them but how on Earth is Joe Blow who's never done them before supposed to know to put the blue corded primary O2 sensors in the headers and only extend the secondary white and red corded O2s to mount behind the main catalytic converter?
Third, apparently they must have run into some quality control issues during manufacture because only one of the header flange holes is the correct size on each side. The rest of the flange holes are well oversized which I presume is to allow for adjustment so it can be made to fit with it's Y pipe. This is really a dumb way to build them because it does not guarantee proper alignment of the exhaust ports where the header mates to the cylinder head. This issue is going to cause many to lose power and end up thinking they wasted their money.
A set of headers needs to have a Y pipe that can be adjusted to fit the headers, NOT the other way around.
Fourth, what is the deal with this cheap **** paper thin flange at the end of the Y pipe that connects to the catalytic converter? It appears to bend with minimal clamping force which isn't enough to crush a gasket thus it leaks like a sift.
Fifth, I noticed that at least one of the header nuts didn't seat on the flange but instead was clamping down on a weld that was in the way. This is another quality control issue that needs to be resolved. My Cattman headers came with special slotted washers to prevent this very problem.
Sixth, yes this one is me being **** but come on. This is a JAPANESE car that is loaded with METRIC bolts. Why is it so dang difficult to include METRIC bolts in the kit? They aren't made of gold or anything and are readily available. It's too annoying to have to dig up SAE sockets when you're already tooled for Metric. It makes no sense at all to mix things up like that. And this goes for the rest of you Y pipe and header manufacturers. There is no excuse you can give me that I will accept on this one. We have Metric cars put together with Metric bolts which we take apart with our Metric tools. STOP GIVING US SAE BOLTS WITH YOUR KITS ALREADY!!!
More on the install;
You do not have to remove the radiator to do a header install. All you really need to do is unbolt the radiator and fan assembly. Then lift the radiator up enough to remove the fan assembly. Once the fans are out of the way there will be more than ample room to remove the front exhaust manifold. It is also wise to cover up the back side of your radiator with cardboard once the fans are gone so that you don't beat the crap out of it when you remove the manifold.
I have taken off the exhaust manifolds of this vehicle in just about every feasible way and my thought is that supporting the engine and removing the engine cradle and the rear engine mount is by far the easiest way to get the rear exhaust manifold off the car.
First, the front header has the O2 bung in the WRONG place. It's to far down the runner and the primary O2 sensor will not reach it unless the cord is extended or the plug is removed from it's holder and left to dangle. This is a pretty farkin STUPID thing for Hotshot to do. Why they didn't just locate the O2 bung farther up is beyond me as there is plenty of room for it.
Second, where are the detail paper instructions? I know I don't need them but how on Earth is Joe Blow who's never done them before supposed to know to put the blue corded primary O2 sensors in the headers and only extend the secondary white and red corded O2s to mount behind the main catalytic converter?
Third, apparently they must have run into some quality control issues during manufacture because only one of the header flange holes is the correct size on each side. The rest of the flange holes are well oversized which I presume is to allow for adjustment so it can be made to fit with it's Y pipe. This is really a dumb way to build them because it does not guarantee proper alignment of the exhaust ports where the header mates to the cylinder head. This issue is going to cause many to lose power and end up thinking they wasted their money.
A set of headers needs to have a Y pipe that can be adjusted to fit the headers, NOT the other way around.
Fourth, what is the deal with this cheap **** paper thin flange at the end of the Y pipe that connects to the catalytic converter? It appears to bend with minimal clamping force which isn't enough to crush a gasket thus it leaks like a sift.
Fifth, I noticed that at least one of the header nuts didn't seat on the flange but instead was clamping down on a weld that was in the way. This is another quality control issue that needs to be resolved. My Cattman headers came with special slotted washers to prevent this very problem.
Sixth, yes this one is me being **** but come on. This is a JAPANESE car that is loaded with METRIC bolts. Why is it so dang difficult to include METRIC bolts in the kit? They aren't made of gold or anything and are readily available. It's too annoying to have to dig up SAE sockets when you're already tooled for Metric. It makes no sense at all to mix things up like that. And this goes for the rest of you Y pipe and header manufacturers. There is no excuse you can give me that I will accept on this one. We have Metric cars put together with Metric bolts which we take apart with our Metric tools. STOP GIVING US SAE BOLTS WITH YOUR KITS ALREADY!!!
More on the install;
You do not have to remove the radiator to do a header install. All you really need to do is unbolt the radiator and fan assembly. Then lift the radiator up enough to remove the fan assembly. Once the fans are out of the way there will be more than ample room to remove the front exhaust manifold. It is also wise to cover up the back side of your radiator with cardboard once the fans are gone so that you don't beat the crap out of it when you remove the manifold.
I have taken off the exhaust manifolds of this vehicle in just about every feasible way and my thought is that supporting the engine and removing the engine cradle and the rear engine mount is by far the easiest way to get the rear exhaust manifold off the car.
03-04-2004, 04:31 AM
#87
Now my take on the install...
First things first if your wanting stock sounding car with stock exhaust these are not for you. I would stick to a y pipe if you want to keep the silence and have some sort of performance upgrade. The hotshot headers are a little raspy and will take some time to get used to but it doesn't sound bad at all. I might make a little video clip later on tonight.
Now as far as the fittment that was all covered by Matt but one thing left out was the flange on the y pipe runner going to the front header. This peice is useless and doesn't really line up. There where no bolts provided to connect it with and I wouldn't advise connecting it without some form of rubber washers. I am getting pretty bad vibration and I believe thats the cause of it.
Now onto the power, my butt dyno doesn't work so I can't give you an honest answer. I'd like to think the powers there and definately feel a mid range boost around 4500 and no I don't mean the VI kicking in.
Dyno this saturday to see how much HP I lost
First things first if your wanting stock sounding car with stock exhaust these are not for you. I would stick to a y pipe if you want to keep the silence and have some sort of performance upgrade. The hotshot headers are a little raspy and will take some time to get used to but it doesn't sound bad at all. I might make a little video clip later on tonight.
Now as far as the fittment that was all covered by Matt but one thing left out was the flange on the y pipe runner going to the front header. This peice is useless and doesn't really line up. There where no bolts provided to connect it with and I wouldn't advise connecting it without some form of rubber washers. I am getting pretty bad vibration and I believe thats the cause of it.
Now onto the power, my butt dyno doesn't work so I can't give you an honest answer. I'd like to think the powers there and definately feel a mid range boost around 4500 and no I don't mean the VI kicking in.
Dyno this saturday to see how much HP I lost
03-04-2004, 05:11 AM
#88
Gee, I thought mine were pretty nice and fit together really well. However, they are still sitting on the floor maybe thats why.
Oh well I shall soon find out, not sure if I should get the B-Pipe etc on first or the headers. Would be interestng to listen to them with the rest stock first I think.
Matt (Blubyu) I believe you already had a Y and B so that will be what mine will sound like eventually. I am going to run the stock muffler though and then swap to the straight thru at the track. An old guy like me can't take too much noise.
Oh well I shall soon find out, not sure if I should get the B-Pipe etc on first or the headers. Would be interestng to listen to them with the rest stock first I think.
Matt (Blubyu) I believe you already had a Y and B so that will be what mine will sound like eventually. I am going to run the stock muffler though and then swap to the straight thru at the track. An old guy like me can't take too much noise.
03-04-2004, 05:58 AM
#89
Originally Posted by Jime
Gee, I thought mine were pretty nice and fit together really well. However, they are still sitting on the floor maybe thats why.
Oh well I shall soon find out, not sure if I should get the B-Pipe etc on first or the headers. Would be interestng to listen to them with the rest stock first I think.
Matt (Blubyu) I believe you already had a Y and B so that will be what mine will sound like eventually. I am going to run the stock muffler though and then swap to the straight thru at the track. An old guy like me can't take too much noise.
Oh well I shall soon find out, not sure if I should get the B-Pipe etc on first or the headers. Would be interestng to listen to them with the rest stock first I think.
Matt (Blubyu) I believe you already had a Y and B so that will be what mine will sound like eventually. I am going to run the stock muffler though and then swap to the straight thru at the track. An old guy like me can't take too much noise.
Matt
03-04-2004, 06:21 AM
#91
Originally Posted by harmbone2k2
i didn't realize that there were that many issues with these headers...so is it totally necessary to bung weld the o2 sensor behind the cat?
Matt
03-04-2004, 07:21 AM
#94
Originally Posted by Jime
I guess if I don't have a cat I don't to need bother moving them Matt?
Is that a correct assumption.
Is that a correct assumption.
03-04-2004, 12:53 PM
#96
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 177
Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
If you don't want to trip the CEL yes. Hotshot provides the bungs to weld onto the b pipe. None of the issues are really major and cause install problems, just minor annoyances that could have been avoided with about an hour extra of R&D. Overall the headers are nicely made and very very affordable.
Matt
Matt
Agree, Jeff at Maximum Tuning who did the install for me, likes the fit and finish of our product. I just wish we didn't have to weld on those bungs. I've had my headers on for 5 days now and as each day goes by my car feels more and more powerful. Great Job on these Headers Hot Shot.
03-04-2004, 01:09 PM
#97
Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
thats correct but you will still have to weld in the other two bungs but thats a given.
If I have a test pipe I am am going to throw a CEL anyways right?
So why not just install the o2 sensors in the headers and forget about welding in the other two bungs?
What am I missing here?
03-04-2004, 01:28 PM
#98
Originally Posted by Jime
Ok, you lost me, it happens at my age.
If I have a test pipe I am am going to throw a CEL anyways right?
So why not just install the o2 sensors in the headers and forget about welding in the other two bungs?
What am I missing here?
If I have a test pipe I am am going to throw a CEL anyways right?
So why not just install the o2 sensors in the headers and forget about welding in the other two bungs?
What am I missing here?
03-04-2004, 03:23 PM
#99
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 630
Usually on OBDII equipped vehicles there are two sets of oxygen sensors. The "upstream" pair (one per cylinder bank) relay information to the ECU (aka fuel trim values) to help it adjust the air/fuel ratio. The "downstream" O2 sensors make sure the catalyst is still functioning properly. Therefore, the rear O2 sensors are optional if you don't mind a CEL.
On a stock 2002 Maxima the downstream O2 sensors are between the main catalyst and the pre-cats (in the y-pipe). Apparantly ISO 9141 standards were satisfied by the efficiency of the precats. So we get to take our main cat off without tripping the CEL. With the Hot Shot headers, the precats are deleted so the secondary O2 sensors must be relocated behind the main catalyst to register acceptable values.
Jesse
On a stock 2002 Maxima the downstream O2 sensors are between the main catalyst and the pre-cats (in the y-pipe). Apparantly ISO 9141 standards were satisfied by the efficiency of the precats. So we get to take our main cat off without tripping the CEL. With the Hot Shot headers, the precats are deleted so the secondary O2 sensors must be relocated behind the main catalyst to register acceptable values.
Jesse
03-04-2004, 05:04 PM
#101
Thanks guys, I am just a little slow these days. I finally found the diagram in the FSM as well.
2 before the precats and 2 after vs the 4th Gen which has 2 before the precats and 1 after the main Cat.
Also, I did not get any extra bungs with my HS headers but they are easily obtained anyway. I think I will get them put on the race pipe along with another for the wideband. Bungs up the ying yang.
Damm 5th Gens are a pain in the ****. But they sure do have spunk. I took the intake off today and put on a temporay WAI and disconnected the Drop Resistor and it gets rubber in 2nd, however the 2-3 feels a bit softer than the 4th Gen.
2 before the precats and 2 after vs the 4th Gen which has 2 before the precats and 1 after the main Cat.
Also, I did not get any extra bungs with my HS headers but they are easily obtained anyway. I think I will get them put on the race pipe along with another for the wideband. Bungs up the ying yang.
Damm 5th Gens are a pain in the ****. But they sure do have spunk. I took the intake off today and put on a temporay WAI and disconnected the Drop Resistor and it gets rubber in 2nd, however the 2-3 feels a bit softer than the 4th Gen.
03-04-2004, 06:49 PM
#102
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,085
Ok...............I just got back from the dyno. BEFORE the Hotshot headers I had Cattman Y, Budget B, Magnaflow muffler and WeaponR intake and I made 211 hp and 214 tq. WITH the headers, WeaponR intake, Magnaflow muffler and Budget B I made 208 hp and 210 tq. A LOSS of 3 hp and 4 tq. Go figure. This was done on a dynojet dyno. The same dyno I have always gone to. Runs were in 4th gear and are corrected. Every time I modify my car, I lose power. 
It is very irritating. Example:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=283695
These are the only possibilities I can come up with:
1. Something is wrong mechanically with my car. (possible)
2. The dyno is off somehow. (possible)
3. None of the modifications I have done to my car make any more power. (unlikely)
4. The headers do not make power. (unlikely)
My car feels very fast, it runs good and I take good care of it. Where the good horsepower and torque numbers are....
Justin
This was done on a dynojet dyno. The same dyno I have always gone to. Runs were in 4th gear and are corrected. Every time I modify my car, I lose power. It is very irritating. Example:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=283695These are the only possibilities I can come up with:
1. Something is wrong mechanically with my car. (possible)
2. The dyno is off somehow. (possible)
3. None of the modifications I have done to my car make any more power. (unlikely)
4. The headers do not make power. (unlikely)
My car feels very fast, it runs good and I take good care of it. Where the good horsepower and torque numbers are....
Justin
03-04-2004, 09:39 PM
#104
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 470
Originally Posted by MAXINXS
Ok...............I just got back from the dyno. BEFORE the Hotshot headers I had Cattman Y, Budget B, Magnaflow muffler and WeaponR intake and I made 211 hp and 214 tq. WITH the headers, WeaponR intake, Magnaflow muffler and Budget B I made 208 hp and 210 tq. A LOSS of 3 hp and 4 tq. Go figure. This was done on a dynojet dyno. The same dyno I have always gone to. Runs were in 4th gear and are corrected. Every time I modify my car, I lose power. It is very irritating. Example:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=283695
These are the only possibilities I can come up with:
1. Something is wrong mechanically with my car. (possible)
2. The dyno is off somehow. (possible)
3. None of the modifications I have done to my car make any more power. (unlikely)
4. The headers do not make power. (unlikely)
My car feels very fast, it runs good and I take good care of it. Where the good horsepower and torque numbers are....
Justin
This was done on a dynojet dyno. The same dyno I have always gone to. Runs were in 4th gear and are corrected. Every time I modify my car, I lose power. It is very irritating. Example:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=283695These are the only possibilities I can come up with:
1. Something is wrong mechanically with my car. (possible)
2. The dyno is off somehow. (possible)
3. None of the modifications I have done to my car make any more power. (unlikely)
4. The headers do not make power. (unlikely)
My car feels very fast, it runs good and I take good care of it. Where the good horsepower and torque numbers are....
Justin
03-05-2004, 03:44 AM
#105
Originally Posted by MAXINXS
Ok...............I just got back from the dyno. BEFORE the Hotshot headers I had Cattman Y, Budget B, Magnaflow muffler and WeaponR intake and I made 211 hp and 214 tq. WITH the headers, WeaponR intake, Magnaflow muffler and Budget B I made 208 hp and 210 tq. A LOSS of 3 hp and 4 tq. Go figure. This was done on a dynojet dyno. The same dyno I have always gone to. Runs were in 4th gear and are corrected. Every time I modify my car, I lose power. It is very irritating. Example:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=283695
These are the only possibilities I can come up with:
1. Something is wrong mechanically with my car. (possible)
2. The dyno is off somehow. (possible)
3. None of the modifications I have done to my car make any more power. (unlikely)
4. The headers do not make power. (unlikely)
My car feels very fast, it runs good and I take good care of it. Where the good horsepower and torque numbers are....
Justin
This was done on a dynojet dyno. The same dyno I have always gone to. Runs were in 4th gear and are corrected. Every time I modify my car, I lose power. It is very irritating. Example:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=283695These are the only possibilities I can come up with:
1. Something is wrong mechanically with my car. (possible)
2. The dyno is off somehow. (possible)
3. None of the modifications I have done to my car make any more power. (unlikely)
4. The headers do not make power. (unlikely)
My car feels very fast, it runs good and I take good care of it. Where the good horsepower and torque numbers are....
Justin
Matt
03-05-2004, 07:02 AM
#106
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 908
WTH! We open up and smooth out the exhaust and we LOSE power?!?! Is it possible that the Maxima computer system is f*cking up everything for us? Does anyone have headers and the ECU mod for comparison? Can anyone post before and after dyno graphs with the headers for us all to look at? And why aren't the Altima guys complaining like us? This is absolutely frustrating!?!?
03-05-2004, 07:15 AM
#107
Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
Im not sure what to say. Something is way off obviously, I would check with quansung on here he was experiencing the same problem and I believe his VI was malfunctioning. He only dynoed like 180whp and 20xtq modded at one time but since I believe he got the problem resolved. I plan to dyno this weekend if I can get my other two 02 sensors connected and an exhaust leak fixed. Good luck with figuring out what the problem might be.
Matt
Matt
Matt what would happen if you just left the 2 rear sensors out and wired up somewhere? There is not much sense putting them in before the cat because there would be no difference in readings. If the cat is removed there is still no differential so I don't see any reason for me putting them in after either.
Not sure what if any problems would result from them hanging as long as they are well protected from damage. At least there would then be a differential in the readings and maybe no CEL?
03-05-2004, 07:17 AM
#108
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Lumbee1
WTH! We open up and smooth out the exhaust and we LOSE power?!?! Is it possible that the Maxima computer system is f*cking up everything for us? Does anyone have headers and the ECU mod for comparison? Can anyone post before and after dyno graphs with the headers for us all to look at? And why aren't the Altima guys complaining like us? This is absolutely frustrating!?!?
I don't think it has anything to do with his headers. He lost power when he added a y-pipe as well. It's the car. I wouldn't get worried because of his dyno, it's just one case.
03-05-2004, 07:32 AM
#109
Originally Posted by Jime
Matt what would happen if you just left the 2 rear sensors out and wired up somewhere? There is not much sense putting them in before the cat because there would be no difference in readings. If the cat is removed there is still no differential so I don't see any reason for me putting them in after either.
Not sure what if any problems would result from them hanging as long as they are well protected from damage. At least there would then be a differential in the readings and maybe no CEL?
Not sure what if any problems would result from them hanging as long as they are well protected from damage. At least there would then be a differential in the readings and maybe no CEL?
03-05-2004, 09:00 AM
#110
Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
Right now I don't even have the rear 02 sensors connected, but I also don't have them plugged up. If you are going to be running a form of gutted cat or test pipe there really is no need to relocate the 02 sensors behind where the cat would sit. Im not sure what plugging them in and leaving them hanging in open air would do though.
03-05-2004, 11:22 AM
#113
Originally Posted by harmbone2k2
well i won't be connecting any o2 sensors on my test pipe or b-pipe so i will let you all know what happens
DO let us know...since I'm running a straight pipe, I guess it wouldn't matter where I put the last 2 sensors...so we'll see how that turns out with yours...
03-05-2004, 12:21 PM
#114
Guest
Posts: n/a
something is wrong with the car or the dyno...
it has to be
completely stock, in 4th gear (of course) I dyno'd at 204hp and 218lbft
here is the only thing I can think of to REALLY test your cars mods....
GO TO THE TRACK AND SEE IF YOU RUN LOWER THAN A 14.4!
nice time by the way, my best was 14.802 (at 1000 feet elevation)
-vq
it has to be
completely stock, in 4th gear (of course) I dyno'd at 204hp and 218lbft
here is the only thing I can think of to REALLY test your cars mods....
GO TO THE TRACK AND SEE IF YOU RUN LOWER THAN A 14.4!
nice time by the way, my best was 14.802 (at 1000 feet elevation)
-vq
03-05-2004, 12:30 PM
#115
Originally Posted by Triple8Sol
DO let us know...since I'm running a straight pipe, I guess it wouldn't matter where I put the last 2 sensors...so we'll see how that turns out with yours...Matt
03-09-2004, 04:53 PM
#116
Anyone dyno these headers on a 3.0L ?? I been trying to find dyno #s on the Cattman headers vs Hotshots, searching around the forum- I recall someone gained like 17WHP over their 12WHP Cattman Ypipe- with the Cattman headers.. I wanna see ###s, price is not an issue.
03-09-2004, 07:22 PM
#118
Yes in deed it does... I'm a EX Sentra SE-R owner, owned a few of them and I think its the most killer car I ever owned period. In true patronage I still go to all the SE-R conventions- when I can, going to this years in California- I sport the classic SE-R badge- the 02-up Spec V SE-Rs are not real SE-Rs. My car is really a GXE that had no badge....sorry this is off topic, I just wanna know what HP they made on a 3.0L and some Cattman HP figures also, as I can't seem to find anyone with a 3.0 and dynofigures for the headers- eighter ones.
03-22-2006, 01:12 PM
#120
Originally Posted by DUKEE
what gaskets did you guys use for these headers? im waiting to get mine installed. they're sitting in my room. these gaskets i got seem ****ty from hotshot. anyone recommend some better ones?