spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Anyone with posts about their rear brakes dragging, parking brake sticking, etc... post them here.

My experience so far:

Since it started snowing late Thursday, every time my car sits around for a period of time with the parking brake applied, it sticks. You can notice the "sticking" through the parking brake lever--when the parking brake lever is all the way down, you can pull it up with NO resistance whatsoever up to a certain point, where it gets tight again. After driving with the rear brakes dragging (and heating up) for a while, it goes away and the parking brake lever becomes tight again. Usually it becomes even tighter than normal, which is not good (should mean that the caliper piston has adjusted too tight?)

So far I have removed my rear calipers, twisted their pistons back into the bore, applied moly-fortified grease (Valvoline synthetic moly-fortified grease for disc & drum brake systems, CV joints, chassis lubrication, etc... the black **** that comes in a tin) to the caliper piston face, and the backing plate of the inner brake pad. Reinstalled the calipers, put the wheels back on & tightened the lugnuts, lowered the car, torqued the lugnuts to 85 ft/lbs, applied the pedal until it was tight.
So far I've had 1 experience with the parking brake since then. Drove out to the mall, parked with the parking brake, came back 10 minutes later, released the parking brake and it was a little stuck... drove off and within 5 seconds of driving it was back to normal.
Now I'm parked for the night with the parking brake on. I'll see how it is tomorrow morning.

BTW, the car handles (or at least feels) a little better after I did that whole job... guess stuck rear brakes influence the feel/handling of the car more than you'd think...

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Rear brakes got stuck again this morning, and it must've taken 1 hour for the parking brake handle to lose its free-play... car still handles like its rear brakes are dragging. Damnit. I'm contemplating bringing this into the dealer and having the rear brakes replaced/repaired under warranty...

kratz74

Easy answer-don't use the parking brake unless you are on a large hill and need to. Happened to me 10 years ago in my Sentra and I had to drive with the rear wheels locked to a heated garage to let them thaw. No need for a parkign brake unless you are on a big hill so don't use it.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

That's what I'll end up doing, but I'm a freak about keeping my car secure (both putting it in gear & using the parking brake)... is this one of those problems you just give up on and say "**** it"? I just want to use my parking brake in peace!

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm. My brakes might not be permanently over-tight... I did some experimentation this evening with the parking brake. The parking brake still takes around 4-5 notches until it's *tight*, and on a reasonably flat stretch of road, going 10-15MPH in neutral, the car never comes to a stop (it just rolls). It takes roughly 2 notches of the parking brake handle before the car noticeably slows down... and then it takes 10-20 seconds before the car stops.
The parking brake handle became this tight after this morning's stuck parking brake incident. Also, after normal driving, the rear calipers don't really feel hot... so I guess they're not really dragging. Oh well, that is good news, as I priced OEM rear calipers on alldatadiy.com at $415/piece

Now I need to come to understand why the parking brake sticks... whether it's the parking brake cables, or something inside the caliper sticking. Brakes are such a pain in the ***!

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Parking brake was stuck again this morning... had to drive on it for roughly 4 miles, then I got in a parking lot, got underneath and pryed the parking brake loose with a small crowbar... it was the left rear that was sticking.
Still not sure whether it was the parking brake cable, or the caliper... the parking brake cable didn't really seem to have any free play in it, but then I didn't wiggle it to check.
The right rear was fine... I tried prying on it but it didn't go anywhere; apparantly it was already disengaged.

UncleMax98

You can take off the caliper and operate the lever by hand to see if it is rusted inside the caliper. Each time you operate the lever, the piston goes out a little, so turn the piston in first and don't let it pop out. In my car, the lever is very light to operate, thump pressure is enough. If that works, then check the parking cable movement without attaching it to the brake caliper lever.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

gotcha... will do.

I was also considering keeping it jacked up one morning, with the wheel off, lugnuts tight and parking brake on... so I can mess with it right when it happens (see if the cable comes off easily, or if the caliper's stuck)

joebrez

The Parking Brake also keeps you rear brakes in adjustment. One of my buddies is a brake man, he says either use it or don't. I use mine every time I park. Have not experienced this (yet).

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I use it always (can't park without it on some locations). My problem here is that somehow my rear brakes have become over-adjusted (left rear side, it's definitely a tad too tight, but not tight enough to cause immediate operational problems)

I think my problem all along has been water/snow stuck in the parking brake cable assembly... ever since the outside temp went above 32F, the parking brake's been fine. Brakes still need re-loosening (gotta jack her up and twist the caliper pistons back in their bore), and I should get it up on a lift and inspect/lubricate any exposed parts of the parking brake.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Tonight I had the opportunity to take the car up the driveway, lift it up and loosen those brakes some...
Looks like the left rear caliper needs replacement. The rubber seal looks ****ed up (part of it twists with the piston as I turned it, part of it didn't... so it looked a little weird), and the parking brake lever doesn't return nearly as easily as the right rear. (I had the caliper off the pads, turned the piston into its bore, then operated the parking brake lever on the caliper itself... it just doesn't "spring back" nearly as well)
I'll write another reply after all this work is done (thinking of just getting a remanufactured caliper from Advance Auto for $70 or whatever...)

Zero Deuce SE

Or, you have a manual transmission. The parking brake is for use while the car is parked and can also be used to stop the car in an emergency when your normal brakes fail or malfunction.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Update: Changed out the left rear caliper for a rebuild one made by A1 Cardone ($70 through Advance Auto Parts).
Didn't bleed it properly, so there was a mushy pedal, and the parking brake lever never got tight... re-bled both rear brakes very thoroughly just to be sure, and the pedal's as tight as before now. Parking brake handle feels better... with the old caliper it felt a little "quirky" when pulling it up w/ the button depressed, now it's smooth and consistent.
Braking feels a tad more effective for some reason... maybe the old caliper wasn't applying force properly?

Anyway, I'll have to wait a week before I can declare the problem completely SOLVED... but I'm confident this is all it was.

SkyDaver

I don't even play a brake technichian on TV, but I don't think the parking brake has anything to do with keeping your rear brakes adjusted, esp. with discs.

Drum brakes get self-adjusted when you back up and apply the brakes.

SkyDaver

If you have an automatic transmission, and you don't use your parking brake, you're asking for trouble.

There's a pawl in the automatic transmission that engages gears inside when you put the car in Park. If you're not on totally level ground, the car then rolls into that pawl.

If that pawl breaks, you're screwed.

Apply the parking brake on anything except completely level ground (and I suggest even then, just so you don't have to develop two habits)

Make sure your parking brake is strong enough to hold the car so that the Park setting in the transmission doesn't have to.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

For the most part, the hydraulic system adjusts the rear brakes most of the way, but I do believe the parking brake does the final fine-tune adjustment...

I'm not 100% sure how a rear caliper piston & bore is designed, but I do believe it somehow ratchets, since I was playing with the caliper last week... if you move the parking brake lever on the caliper back and forth, the piston comes out further and further.

Eventually there's a happy medium, where the parking brake lever doesn't feel too tight when you begin to lift it up, but becomes firm after a few clicks, however the rear brakes don't drag very much either if you lift the car and spin the wheels, yet the brake pedal feels pretty firm.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Damnit!
Parking brake was still stuck this morning...
This time I know it is the cable for sure.
I pulled on the left-side parking brake cable where it runs along the chassis in front of the rear wheel, and every time I let go, the parking brake lever at the caliper loosened a little...

So I guess my problem was a compound of a stuck parking brake cable, along with a ****ed-up caliper.
Anyone know how hard it is to replace the parking brake cable on one side, and how much a replacement costs?

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Finally replaced the cable. God damn it was a B!TCH. If you ever have to do this, the easiest way to do it is to REMOVE the B-pipe and its metal cover overtop. Otherwise, it will be very tricky, you should bring sufficient lighting, and you will need a 2nd person to hold the B-pipe to one edge to give you enough room to work. The parking brake junction is above the B-pipe resonator's upper cover, and it is covered in either lithium or moly-based grease.

You also need to disconnect the parking brake on the other side to ensure the junction in the middle has enough free-play for pivoting. I did not take any pics of the junction unfortunately.

At that point, you have to disconnect the cable from the junction. If you can pivot the wire part to the side, and push the small stud at the end out of its hole, it will come out easily.

Once that's done, it's a piece of cake to remove the rest of the mounting bolts and install the new cable. Although, installing the cable into the junction is a real pain, and ultimately REQUIRES someone to hold the B-pipe to give you enough room for your hands to work.

At the same time, I discovered my B-pipe is crushed at both the crossmembers that go under the B-pipe... I'll bet that has something to do with my car's relative lack of power... (time for a Cattman or Stillen B-pipe?)

Although after I was done everything, when I got home I did notice the left rear rotor still looked kinda hot... and the parking brake lever did feel a little tight, with a little more resistance at its lowermost position than it should. I guess I'll have to loosen it up. After this, I do plan on turning both rear rotors and putting some better pads on there. I have el-cheapo pads on there right now to hold me off until my parking brake issues are resolved (which, after loosening the parking brake handle, should be resolved now)

twiggy144

I changed a rear cable a few months ago. I didn't remove the B-pipe. I removed only the heat shield. Once unbolted ( 4 screws) the heat shield can be pivoted around the b- pipe and removed. I was not paying attention, and damaged the after cat oxygen sensor while doing it. Damn .

My B-pipe is also crushed right above the cross memebr. I think this is by design. My max is a 4th gen.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Ah, I thought about removing the cover but couldn't move it very well... oh well
I'm definitely interested in changing the B-pipe and removing those crossmembers...

twiggy144

The trick with the heat shield is to bend the right side flap or wing, where one of the fastening screw goes through. Bend down app 90 deg, and pivot the shield around the b- pipe. When reinstalling, bend back in it's original position. Dont break the O2 sensor like I did: make sure you clear it.

I agree the crushed b pipe restricts some HP. Dont know why Nissan designed them that way.

Parthur

I know it is an old threat but I use it to discover and fix my problem, I also have some input on how to fix this.
Well a couple of months ago the rear right brake was getting stuck after applying the E-brake, it took a few minutes of driving to be able to free it and the hand lever inside the cabin felt lose while it was stuck, I thought it was the caliper at the beginning, but this threat make go under the car and while my wife pulled and released the lever the actual mechanism on the right brake was not being released after pulling on the handle until I moved it with a hammer!! then I realize it was the E-Brake cable, bought one and installed; it is pretty easy, the trick with the heat shield is to unscrew the one that covers the E-brake assemble but do not remove it, I also unscrew the one in front of that one (there are 2) and being careful with the O2 sensor slide the back shield between the front one and the car.... pretty easy to do and did not bend anything or removed the pipe, after that is only a matter of a few screws and done.
For the caliper all it took was a little bit of grease on the sliding pins and the brakes are like new.
Hope this help, when you think on rear brake dragging take a close look at the E-Brake cable....

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

So my e-brake handle is very very loose, also comes way up and doesn't seem like it's getting tight. Are you saying this could be the cable? I haven't messed with it or taken a look since I installed new rear calipers and it just started to happen. When I replace the cable, it runs all the way from the handle to the rear caliper correct? Any pics on this? Thanks for the input, I've been meaning to look at this and get it fixed.

Parthur

I don't know about your case, mine the problem was that the right rear wheel was getting stuck after applying the hand brake, like it had frozen, then after a few minutes of driving it got released even smelled like something burning and the rotor was hotter than the other 3. while the brake was frozen I could lift (4-5 points) the lever with no resistance at all. The problem the cable did not release the caliper.....
I am not sure about yours, go under the car while someone pulls + releases the E-brake, if you see the mechanism not moving that is the problem, if not, then you might just have to adjust the E-brake lever ( there is a little nut 10mm when you pull the lever you can try that first....
let us know

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

I'll go under and take a gander. I've adjusted the nut a while back as far as it can go. To no avail.

RustyMax

I'm having the same problem with my 98 Gle, just purchased it and owners said brakes were shot and pedal is mushy, but when taking off the rear wheels i discovered no warping of the rotors and the pads still had at least 50 percent life left? My left parking brake cable has busted dust boots where it meets the caliper and it's rusted to **** and doesnt move one bit, the right cable works as it should. would this explain the mushy pedal?

seastone14

i replaced the sticking caliper and now the new one is frozen, help!!!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Could have posted this new instead of necromancing.
However..... How do you know it is frozen? It would be a few things, improperly installed brake pads, ebrake cable, or the caliper. If it is an improperly installed brake pads, either replace them or re-install them correctly. If it's the caliper, then hopefully it has a warrenty. I JUST replaced both rear calipers. The passenger side was broke right out the box...the ebrake mechanism would not engage. Took it back under warrenty.

Could be a sticking e-brake cable (known issue). Reach between the spokes of your rims and see if you can pull the ebrake mechanism back into place. If so, then you need to stop using your ebrake until you get this repaired.

One thing I did was disconnect the ebrake at the rear calipers. Then, have some inside the car pull/release the ebrake repeatedly while I used PB Blaster to spray into the line. You can pull the rubber cover away from the end of the cable to spray inside the sheilding, where the ebrake cable runs. This seemed to fix everything. I imagine the only other option would be to replace the lines, but that seems excessive.

Chunk

Pretty much the same story here. My rear drivers side caliper was sticking so I replaced it. A few months later it is doing the same thing.....

throrope

Appears I'm in the same boat.

Just replaced right rear caliper and checked that the cable goes slack after engaging the hand brake and all is well. Bolted up the wheel and it didn't spin free. Backed off piston and all was free. Mounted wheel and snugged lugs and now it binds. I'm gonna look up axle issues.

From the manual, looks like I'm dealing with a Wheel hub bearing. Oh what fun.

Seventy-three bucks with free shipping from Auto Parts Warehouse. Comes with ABS ring and studs as a complete assembly.

Update - Yup, wheel bearing. I also miss read the Auto Parts Warehouse listing. It didn't come with the ABS ring. I was able to pull the one off the old hub and set it with a roll of caution tape and 3 lb sledge hammer. The job is about as easy as brakes. Now for some more miles.

20(kmax)00

Hi!

I'm having a similar problem with the brakes sticking, however to a lesser degree than most people here, I think (i.e. they're not smoking). I was wondering if anyone could give me a little guidance! Anyhow, here's the issue:

My e-brake cable housing was broken so the cable seized. I got a new e-brake cable installed (by the shop, wayyyy too much $, but I don't have a lift and I'm a car repair noob). The e-brakes seem to work properly, when applied they hold the wheels well and can stop the car. The parking brake actuator lever on both calipers returns to the stopper properly (as in, the cable isn't too tight on the calipers). However, the wheels are quite difficult to turn after applying the e-brake (this was happening before the new cable which I assumed would fix it). The pads aren't smelling or smoking while driving, but I think the brakes might be locking up on icy corners (which is a pretty scary feeling, having the car oversteer suddenly in the middle of curves).

I tried loosening the cable just to be sure it wasn't that, but the wheels are still quite sticky after applying the e-brake. They seem to loosen up a little after driving but can randomly get sticky again. I took apart the calipers and the pistons spin well, as they should.

Is it possible that the seized e-brake cable has damaged the calipers somehow? Is there a way to adjust the brakes so that they back off more?

The shop I took it to mentioned that since the calipers are spinning well it might be a hydraulic problem...

Any thoughts would be appreciated before I go and replace both calipers (for the second time in 2 years). Thanks!

AWeb80

Just replaced both rear rotors, calipers, and pads. The parking brake didn't engage at all before and still won't. I pull it up to its full stop and there is no resistance. How do I adjust it or is there something on the calipers that needs adjusted?