THEKNITE

iTrader: (1)

I've changed brake pads on my previous car and my moms car, so I'm not new to this, is there anything special about the maxima??
I've decided to change rear pads myself since dealer costs are crazy.
Did anybody do it themselves?? What pads did you use, where did you get it, and how much?
thnx

Maximax2

There are how-to's on this if you search. It's almost as easy as the front brakes (i.e. very easy) - the one difference is you need a special tool to screw the pistons back in. Something like $5 at an auto parts place.

MajesticBlueNTO

iTrader: (6)

www.motorvate.ca has pics on how to remove the front brakes. the rears are exactly the same. 14mm bolts on the caliper and 17mm bolts for the torque member.

my finding in removing the rear caliper is to remove the 14mm bolt that connects the caliper to the bracket that allows the parking brake assembly to pivot. if the words are vague, look under the brake assembly and you'll see the lone bolt.

most instructions for the rear call for removing the parking brake cable spring to remove the cable from the caliper assembly...don't bother, removing that bolt is a lot easier.

as for turning the pistons back in, if you don't have the special tool, use a set of needle nose pliers...takes longer but it works

cabernet

My dealer wanted about $240 for the rears but it depends on what part of the country you're in. In the Bay area , Calif, my dealer jacks up the list price of parts by 25% and the labor too ($105 per hour). I think with all the warping problems Maximas have, you'd probably want to take the rotors out and have them turned. Next time I'm having Raybestos QS pads put on.

WaarrEagle

iTrader: (1)

I paid that $200 earlier this week to get the rear pads done. I installed my front pads myself but didn't want to mess with the rear. For that price I got new pads and the rotors resurfaced.

THEKNITE

iTrader: (1)

Since, the local dealer wanted $225, I bought just the pads and did it myself. I disconnected the emergency brake line by removing one bolt that's underneath the caliper, opened the brake fluid reserve under the hood and turned (pushed) the caliper in with regular pliers, with one half of the nose in the indent in the caliper and the other on the outside of the circle, and just turned clockwise until it was all the way in. I couldn't get the rotor off, so I just cleaned it up with some sand paper, and reinstalled everything. So far so good, brakes work great and dont' squeek.
peace

MadMax1996

iTrader: (1)

If you have the tool to push the piston back into the caliper it makes life soooo much easier. Don't bother buying it! You can usually borrow the tool for free from an auto parts store. You pay for it, use it, and when you're done you get your full money back.

When I did the brakes on my previous car it looks like someone did a half-assed job. The seals around the piston were all effed up. Having the tool will ensure you don't do any damage to the caliper.

Sheeh - $200 for pads at a dealer? They must be smokin crack!