TimW

iTrader: (6)

I should have ordered from Dave, but I forgot to call him and really wanted to do it this weekend. So I paid the price, literally! $80 with tax from NAPA. ouch..

well, I was really beating myself about paying that extra $20 (with shipping)... until I finished and started the car! Oh my god... the first thing I noticed is that the car started in 1/2 the time... and that was after being moved, so I should have had a hard start.. not so, it started immediately.. no I mean instantaneously compared to regular starts. A few more starts were all the same, 1/2 the regular time.. My car has never started like that.

I took it around the block and it was pulling so hard. It was raining so I mainly broke tracting ALOT.. but I could tell it was really pulling harder.

AND FINALLY THE IDLE! smooth as hell.. I havent had an idle like that in 30K miles! AC/lights/fogs going and it was still smooth.. Every once and while I could feel a very subtle vibe, but nothing like the shuddering and loaping as before.

I guess the moral to the story is that if you had your coils replaced, then you may want to check those plugs too. Those bad coils really ate my plugs.. In fact, I think my plugs were toast at 10K. Only took me 30K more to realize it.

Y2KSESteve

iTrader: (22)

I need to do this so bad.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

i like happy endings.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

tell me why my keyless entry freaked out and it will be a truly happy ending :/ I reset (neg term off the battery) and it got better for awhile, not its not reponding again.. well, intermittant. *everything* else on the SECU seems to be fine. Bizarre.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

there is a huge diff. btwn copper and plantium.

I replaced mine 2 weeks ago. I went with copper, 1.59 each. if you dont mind gapping it every 15 - 20k miles, it saves a lot.

Maxman2000

iTrader: (5)

. I found that funny.

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

told you changing them would fix all your problems... hehehe...

maxman00

iTrader: (1)

What plugs did you go with? I only have 30k on my car, but I keep hearing good things about replacing the plugs. I might have to do it soon!

TimW

iTrader: (6)

I got the platinum.. however, now knowing how easy it is to swap them, it would be nothing to go copper and replace them every 30K. But its nice to know I wont have to worry about these for awhile (platinum), as my car has shown itself to be VERY hard on plugs.

saxdogg

Have you tried replacing your remote battery? Maybe? Just maybe???

Go plugs! Glad it worked. I just replaced all the plugs and wires on my Ford. It's idle still sucks a$$.

ARFF

TimW

iTrader: (6)

nope, not the batteries. something is really freaked out. Of course the dealer will probably blame the HIDs

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

very hard on plugs? did you notice any damage on it? when I took out mine, I noticed that insulator was really white because I was running lean. Other than that, the gap was .038 instead of factory .044. Now I am running 1 step colder copper with .038.

IMO, I hated to replace the plugs on the rear bank. I had to remove some bracket to get to cylinder no. 5. after replacing them, my back was hurt and I was sweating like a pig.

other than that, I followed Hayne's manual and used a 8mm fuel hose to insert the plug back in. I would easily notice if I crossed a thread this way.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

Most of my plugs were mushroomed at the tip like this one. Not really bad for a plug, but not in great shape either.

I just moved those cables out of the way on the rear. As far as the plugs going back in, I used the extension and plug socket. I turned it backwards a few turns, then forward. After a few turns, I pulled on it an made sure the plug was threaded in.. then continued finger tightening to the gasket... then popped on the torque wrench. My only shame is that I needed to stand on a block to get to that last rear one.. Being 5'10" can suck..

At last (driver side rear bank) was tough.. I used a 11" extension -> wobble ->6" extension. On torqing, I was *very* careful to keep the extension centered in the hole (when using the unversal joint).

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

how many miles you have on it? that maybe the result of the bad coils you had. let me show you my pictures after work.

Quote:

I just moved those cables out of the way on the rear. As far as the plugs going back in, I used the extension and plug socket. I turned it backwards a few turns, then forward. After a few turns, I pulled on it an made sure the plug was threaded in.. then continued finger tightening to the gasket... then popped on the torque wrench. My only shame is that I needed to stand on a block to get to that last rear one.. Being 5'10" can suck..

I had to loose the bracket that holds the throttle and cruise control cables. I had problem taking them out when the bracket is still attached.

I guess it was a bit easier for me because my car is lowered. I am 5'9, btw. I bet Kevin has no problem with it at all.

Quote:

At last (driver side rear bank) was tough.. I used a 11" extension -> wobble ->6" extension. On torqing, I was *very* careful to keep the extension centered in the hole (when using the unversal joint).

that's the tough one, cynliner no. 5, the last one the fuel rail. I had a bad 11" extension in the beginning. It was a 1/2" extension so I had to use 3/8" to 1/2" socket to connect this extension to the spark plug socket. It kept falling off my wrench and I had to use a magnetic rod or a plier to take out the socket everytime. Finally when I readjusted the gap on the next day, I went to buy a good 3/8" extension.

it is good to work on the car during the night, you get hella tired when it is done and you go straight to a good night sleep.

Igor911

iTrader: (10)

Tim - what plugs did you use? Nissan stock?

TimW

iTrader: (6)

you can use the part number and get them at any napa.. same plug.. but you will pay 50% more than using DaveB

karguy

I guess the moral to the story is that if you had your coils replaced, then you may want to check those plugs too. Those bad coils really ate my plugs.. In fact, I think my plugs were toast at 10K. Only took me 30K more to realize it. [/B][/QUOTE]

I replaced my plugs with OEM NGKs at 50K and had similar results although I did not have coil problems. I have now decided on replacing my plugs every 40K. If you run them longer I think any projected savings go out the exhaust pipe.

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

i'm going to change my plugs too when it gets nice out here in chicago....one question though-- what did u torque it to? thanks

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

17 - 22 lb/ft

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

thanks

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

np..dont set it too tight because you have anti-sieze on it. with anti-sieze, the torque reading will be a bit lower.

karguy

I reduce torque by 1/3 when using anti seize compound so as to not overtighten anything!

TimW

iTrader: (6)

I assumed the NKG's already had some sort of antiseize film.

DAVEB

iTrader: (133)

Nope- NGK's are dry as a bone- Gotta slop on the anti-seize!

TimW

iTrader: (6)

great do I need to pull them out right away? or can I go for a week or two without?

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

I tried a week or two without it.


it will just get tighter and tigher after more use and abuse.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

http://home.earthlink.net/~doctorkiwi/SC/P1010126.JPG

my spark plug, 43k, 9k boosted miles.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

lean and clean!

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

yup, I was running lean for a while.....see how white the insulator is.

DAVEB

iTrader: (133)

You could definitely go a week or two without it, just don't leave 'em in forever!

MadXtreme01

just replaced my plugs, damn they were expensive, i got the denso irridum's, but well worth the money for them, the worst part id have to say was the pain in the *** to install, but at least we dont have to replace wires too