96BLUMAX

iTrader: (3)

I just installed a gauge for AFR and after the car warms up it gives me a reading of 4 bars into stoich. Is that what it should be? Also I am going to install a FPR and I was wondering if I should decrease the pressure so that it runs lean at idle. I haven't been able to test full throttle because I was in a parking garage, but I know when pressing the gas, the meter does not go up that much. Is that normal? And help would be great. Thanks.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

Leaning out the A/F ratio at idle won't do anything for you. Leaning it out at WOT should provide you with small gains though.

96BLUMAX

iTrader: (3)

Can you explain a little more about how I should tune the car, because it was my understanding that you wanted to just be barely in rich at WOT.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

Well, rich is safer than lean, but robs the engine of power. Lean will create more power, but could cause damage to the engine if you go too far.

Personally, I wouldn't "tune" using a cheap AF guage (like autometers), cause they aren't that accurate. If you really want to get a prefect A/F ratio you'll have to get some dyno time and play with it (using their O2 sensor).

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Unless you are running some Power Adders I don't think you're gonna get much from playing with your A/F ratio. The ECU is in closed loop most of the time until you go into WOT... Like stated above, you should do it on a dyno... if you go too lean you'll destroy your engine.

96BLUMAX

iTrader: (3)

so are you saying that the ECU will override my settings and make it stoich? What would happen if i used the FPR to turn down the pressure? Would the ECU adapt?

ejj

iTrader: (5)

No, not at WOT. The ECU has a hard coded map that it follows, and it assumes that stock FP.

JdawgX

Not entirely true..... according to my OBD II scanner, the ECU actually bounces back and forth quite a bit, without going to WOT. Like I said, that's according to the scanner, but it seems to bounce back and forth quite a bit. i can post the file so that you can see it if you'd like.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

OK... technically it's only over around 40% throttle (from someone else's posting)... The point is that the ECU will compensate during times when the engine isn't under "load"... When you 'get on it' you'll notice that the O2 readings stop bouncing back and forth.

96BLUMAX

iTrader: (3)

ok well i have tested it for a few days now and I notice it runs very lean while at high speeds on the highway and then most of the time stays lean when I get off. Sometime though it is so lean that it goes off the scale and then later comes back to the farthest lean LED. What should I do with fuel pressure?

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

While you're cruising on the highway, the A/F gauges should be swinging from lean to rich back and forth. It's normal for it to register lean when you let off on the gas.

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

I installed an Autometer Phantom air/fuel gauge and I was wondering if the readings mean that im running too rich. When the engine it not under load it does the normal bouncing back from lean to stoich/rich. I read in the manual that the gauge is suppose to read rich when under load. When going about 60% throttle to WOT, it goes rich, lighting up LEDs 3,4,5 and sometimes 6 but it is dim (6 leds for rich and the 6th being most rich). What is the normal reading suppose to be at? I was assuming that I may be running rich before the gauge went in because my gas mileage is not so great and recently I noticed a loss in power, mostly in 3rd gear. Can someone clear this up for me? Thanks!

maxima_kid

iTrader: (4)

Thats what mine reads at idle. But then I have a af fuel pump and fmu.

madmax96

iTrader: (1)

ok guys i have this same gauge on my other car and i wish i didnt put it on.to find out from all the speed shops in my area this gauges dont work that great.at first i said ok sure they dont why would they sell them then then we dynoed my car and the lab top showed me that it was worthless except for looks.i am on my way saveing the money up to get the aem gauge for this and the o2 sensor that works great but it is about 600 dollars.so its just for looks

venompwr2

iTrader: (27)

I believe you are talking about a wideband O2 sensor, much better and more useful than a regular a/f gauge

matty

iTrader: (54)

Regular A/F gauge is worth cr*p in my opinion...

Wideband O2 with Datalogging very worth the money...with the add ons of a Boost gauge, EGT gauge and RPM, how can you go wrong

If your not boosted there really isnt any point to a A/F gauge or a Wideband o2....your not adding any extra air or fuel...

-matt

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

I know that the gauge would not be very accurate. I got the gauge with a fuel pressure gauge so I could get an idea of the ratio when I spray nitrous. Running the gauge NA shows that I am rich but I just wanted to make sure where it is suppose to be at when going wot.

maxima_kid

iTrader: (4)

My thoughts exactly but why would you need a RPM? Even with extensive internals, you probably wouldnt want to go over 8000.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Well the stock tach is only so accurate in high RPM's and when you are you reading Air Fuel Ratios that persise you want the best rpm reading possible...plus some of the good wideband o2 sensor controllers, have peak freeze readings where it will store peak readings at whatever rpm...

RPMs are key when your tuning

-matt