Gary95

I've seen some people give an extensive list of parts that they have replaced when installing new struts and springs. But I've also heard that a good many won't need replacing. Is there a defacto standard of the parts that should be replaced? Also, are there suspension related parts that are a good idea to get while doing this based on 100k mileage?

1) Dust boots - these are usually cracked to hell by the time 100k rolls around, or near ready to crumble. A definite.
2) Strut mounts - based on wear. How do you tell?
3) CV joints - these are usually worn well enough by 100k to warrant replacing?

Please add to this as you see fit... thanks!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

It all depends on age and miles.

The basics should be:

1) Dust covers
2) Spring isolator sleves
3) Spring perch mount isolators (upper perch front & rear)
4) Rubber bushings (rears)
5) Front sway bar end link bushings

Thats a nice suspension tune up! Makes the car much quieter.

As far as the strut mounts go, I don't think there's to much to ware on them. Just check to make sure the bushing aren't cracked. A quick test would be to push down on the car and watch the piston shaft from the top, it shouldn't move. If it travels up and down a bit, then the strut mounts may need replacing.

sbslacker

iTrader: (1)

I've read a lot about people replacing these things when they do their suspension....I thought this was a totally separate component. Are these things only accessible with the suspension apart? I was thinking of replacing them, but at a later date than my spring/strut install....what do you recommened?

Gary95

I'm having a tough time with terminology. It seems the manuals, FAQs, and user postings use different words for possibly the same thing. Here is a list someone had posted previously, of parts he replaced in conjunction with his suspension:
================================================== ===========
(2)54034-31u01-front spring seat ("*SEAT-RU" on invoice)------$11.19ea.
(6)54034-85e10-front urethane isolator ("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$7.99ea.
(2)54050-31u02-front dust boot ("BUMPER A" on invoice)-------$14.25ea.
(2)54329-39u00-front spacer ("SPACER-F" on invoice)-----------$8.82ea.
(2)55034-31u00-rear spring seat ("*SEAT RU on invoice)-------$9.96ea.
(2)55031-33p10-rear urethane isolator("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$6.63ea.
(2)55240-0m315-rear dust boot ("*BUMPER" on invoice)--------$27.95ea.
(2)55338-0m000-rear spacer (*SEAL-SH" on invoice)-----------$16.66ea.
================================================== ===========
Are the perch mount isolators the same as the "urethane isolators"? And what of the isolator sleeves? Also, are the front sway bar end link bushings different from the front controller arm bushings? I just want to be armed with the right info so I don't get raped by the mechanics (they have a tendency to replace a lot of unnecessary parts around here, CT).

Thanks a lot for your advice...

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Yeah until you do the work it's hard to exactly see what's going on. This isn't exact, but it's very similiar to our setup.

I wouldn't say the front sway bar endlink bushings are necessary as mine still looked ok, but the energy suspension polyurethane bushings are nice. The endlink bushings can be done without taking apart the suspension, but they are very easy to get to while doing the job. The front control arm bushings are very hard to get off so I don't plan on doing them. As far as replacement parts I listen to njmax as he is very knowledgable on the subject.

I didn't replace the urethane wrap because mine isn't very old, and after doing the job it really doesn't fit incredibly well since aftermarket springs tend to be thicker than stock. I would reccomend the rear isolator bushing (it is rubber) and OEM front strut bearings. I replaced some of my washers and such, but if it's metal it's probably ok. Rubber parts are pretty cheap and easy to replace.

I replaced my front strut mounts with the KYBs since I got a discount from Cattman and they are supposed to be a harder rubber than stock. Be sure to wrap the springs well so you don't get noise. I'm still trying to figure out what my noise is
-hype

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Thats a great breakdown in the above post. The urethane isolators are the sleves that go on the springs themselves. The upper perch mount is the thick black rubber isolator that the spring sits on up on the top perch.

Gary95

Hey Hype,

Thanks for going to all the trouble -- that diagram is fantastic. I have a really good idea of how everything fits together now.

I think you're right--all rubber should be replaced. I'm going to make a list of all that because it isn't always clear( e.g. a bushing can be either). I'll also conduct my own inspection and use this to judge the estimates I get.

Any idea of the average cost for spring and strut replacement? One shop that gave me my first estimate was outrageous ($450).

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Glad the diagram helped. It really helped me understand some of the parts before I did my suspension. As far as cost my mechanic does the job for $250, but I don't think it's uncommon to hear 350-400 either. An alignment will run you about 60-70 afterwards as well.
Here's a very useful njmax tip: when the front shocks are being put back together push the bottom in towards the center of the car to get the camber right. Our camber isn't specified as adjustable from the factory and the only way to do it is to push the shock in when you tighten the bolts. After I got my alignment both sides in the front had -.9 degress of camber which is in spec. I was really happy I got my camber even on both sides
-hype

exhip95

I'm the guy who originally posted this list. Yes, the urethane isolators are for the LOWER perch. The spring seats are for the UPPER perches. Please keep in mind that the prices shown here are from my local dealer but with the part numbers shown you can order them online and save yourself some cake. You can save yourself even more by doing the job yourself. Its really not too tough. Buy a good manual and study it for a while to get familiar with everything and then GO FOR IT.

When I ordered my struts the KYB mounts seemed like a good idea because they come with bearings but I think that was a mistake. The mounts seem to transmit more noise than the originals did and the bearings STILL make noise even after driving with them for about six weeks. I thought they would break in but nope. I have decided to take them apart and replace them with new OE parts.

SuDZ, There was a big drop in road noise after installing all this stuff but the FEEL came from everything else. I completely rebuilt the suspension with H&R's, AGX's, an AddcoRSB, a Courtesy FSTB, and new front end link bushings at the the same time. Overall the suspension is quieter than it was. I expect it to get quieter still when I put new OE mounts in.

Good luck...

exhip95

Sounds like a plan. The bearing thing really is my fault. After disassembling my OE struts the bearings felt smoother with 100,000 miles on them then the new KYB's did but like I said earlier I thought they would break-in. "They have to be better, they are new and they are KYB" is what went through my head. ho-hum.

I used the same thought process with the mounts but I'm not sure harder is better. I believe any advantage would be minimal because of the small amount of rubber in the mount. Then there is the noise.
My origials were shot so it saved me a step to order them with the struts, so I thought, but now it seems I have a lot of work ahead of me to replace them again.

Gary95

Thanks for the info and experience sharing, exhip95.

For anyone who has been reading this thread, I stumbled upon this one which also has some great info (especially regarding the spring wraps to reduce noise):

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....threadid=72678

As to which parts aside from the primaries should be replaced, it seems to be a case-by-case basis. But it does seem the general consensus is that rubber deteriorates over time and that any car with 100k miles or so should definitely have all rubber parts replaced.

exhip95

I would get the isolators also. I only bought two when I did the spring install because after looking at the H&R's I didn't think the coils would come into contact with each other. When I lowered the car back to the ground with the new springs the top and bottom coils were indeed touching so I ordered four more (two per side) to keep them from touching at all. I dont think its that big of a deal but over time the coating protecting the spring will get worn through and cause rust. From what I've read Progress spring lower the car a little more than H&R's do so the coils will probably have more of the coils touching.

With only 53,000 miles your isolators are probably still in good shape so you may not need them but they are relatively cheap. They are $6.55 each from nissanparts.cc. If I were you I would order them just to have them on hand in case you did need them.

One other thing. I can remember reading a couple of posts that talked about the KYB boots not fitting very well. If your originals are not torn I would probably just clean them up, treat them with a rubber protectant (brake fluid works great) and reinstall them. The KYB struts are IMHO the best but the other things they make are questionable. I learned the hard way with the strut mounts and bearings. So did Hype.

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Just for a second opinion I love my KYB dust boots They use zip ties to attach at the bottom, but other than that I would say they are better than stock dust boots. The other good feature is that you don't have to cut any bump stops because they are made specifically for their shocks. I didn't replace my urethane isolators because they were still in good shape and OEM parts cost a fortune :P I got a good deal on my shocks and springs, but even with my discount at Courtesy the parts add up. This weekend I went with another .org member to buy dust boots, front strut bearings, etc. and his total ended up over $130. I told him NOT to buy the isolators because that would add even more to the price tag. One day I will fix my noise though
-hype

JsL

iTrader: (5)

If I buy all the below and the Energy Suspension parts from Courtesey, will any parts overlap? What parts don't I need from below if I plan on buying Energy Suspension components? Thanks, JsL

(2)54034-31u01-front spring seat ("*SEAT-RU" on invoice)------$11.19ea.
(6)54034-85e10-front urethane isolator ("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$7.99ea.
(2)54050-31u02-front dust boot ("BUMPER A" on invoice)-------$14.25ea.
(2)54329-39u00-front spacer ("SPACER-F" on invoice)-----------$8.82ea.
(2)55034-31u00-rear spring seat ("*SEAT RU on invoice)-------$9.96ea.
(2)55031-33p10-rear urethane isolator("SEAL-RUB" on invoice)-$6.63ea.
(2)55240-0m315-rear dust boot ("*BUMPER" on invoice)--------$27.95ea.
(2)55338-0m000-rear spacer (*SEAL-SH" on invoice)-----------$16.66ea.

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

i've talked to some people who didn't replace anything other than the dust boots and spring isolators..

and they have no problems... they said the rest of the suspension components were fine even with 100k miles and change.. and that they barely wear, if at all..

i do not mind paying to replace this stuff but is it really that necessary?

some of these things are made out of metal and hard rubber which really can't wear.. especially being sealed up so tight in there..