MAXIMA's have big problem...easy to steal????
03-17-2002, 02:31 AM
#41
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,431
Why it goes off..
Seems to me that the alarm in my 90GXE /w keypad entry works exactly the same as my 97SE /w remote entry. If you leave the windows down.. get out of the car. Lock it. And then reach in through the window (I guess give it 30 seconds) and unlock and open the door, it will go off. What I am not positive on is if it goes off on any door. Tomarrow I will test my 97SE and see what happens. As I recall on my 90, you could even get in the car while the alarm was going off and start the engine (with the key), but until you unlocked the door from the outside with either the key or the keypad, it would continue to go off.
- Jon
- Jon
03-17-2002, 07:32 AM
#42
Re: break glass
Originally posted by humaras
are there any usual cars out there (aside from the bmws or mercedes) that have a stock break glass feature? I think pretty much all the cars out there have something similar to what the maximas have.
you guys satisfied with your stock alarm? or did you upgraded?
are there any usual cars out there (aside from the bmws or mercedes) that have a stock break glass feature? I think pretty much all the cars out there have something similar to what the maximas have.
you guys satisfied with your stock alarm? or did you upgraded?
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket alarm for my car now though..
-zach
03-17-2002, 07:33 AM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 408
Autolock
I've seen this on TV, and it has been endorsed by a number of different organizations, including the police. It's called the Autolock, and is what someone was previously referring to. It disables the pedals of the car, making it undrivable. It's pretty much impossible to remove.
http://www.autolock.com/
Good Luck!
http://www.autolock.com/
Good Luck!
03-17-2002, 07:42 AM
#44
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 170
Well I agree with everyone on the fact that if a theif wants the car a thief will get the car. One thing I did when istalling my after market alarm was to wire the flashing led to the factory led. So from first glance it looks like a stock alarm but it has full shock sensors. So if a would be thief ever decided to break the back glass or jimmy the door the alarm will sound...hopefully driving them away (or maybe just make them work faster). Just a little suggestion for you guys.
Warbucks
Warbucks
03-17-2002, 10:14 AM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 174
Originally posted by TintDaMax
Is it any coincidence that the most stolen cars are also the most common? Think about that one
DPW
Is it any coincidence that the most stolen cars are also the most common? Think about that one
DPW
03-17-2002, 11:07 AM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Um no the brake pedal is the like the strongest part in the car...I don't think you can simply just brake it off. And I have an autolock...its a pain in the *** just to lock it because it is in such an awkward place. It would be too hard for a thief to try and work on it.
03-17-2002, 02:05 PM
#48
Originally posted by orgasmicNYC
For the club they cut the steering wheel and for the autolock they break off the brake pedal. Saw it on TLC, is the thief knows what he wants he can take the autolock off just as fast as the club.
For the club they cut the steering wheel and for the autolock they break off the brake pedal. Saw it on TLC, is the thief knows what he wants he can take the autolock off just as fast as the club.
Are you sure what you saw on TLC was the Autolock and not the one made by the same people who make the Club, because that one looks to be weaker than the Autolock?
03-17-2002, 04:15 PM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,171
autolock info
I forgot where I saw this, but it was on tv awhile back about the autolock--according to what they say, the metal used in the brake petal is one of the strongest steel parts in the car--
In fact we mentioned this in my operations management class about using various techniques to get parts. One of the parts mentioned was the brake pedal. As it seems my prof's father use to have a company that made these miscellaneous items (in the 60's and 70's) and he commented that the steel for that part is the toughest.
now question, if they hypothetically cut off the brake pedal--how the heck are they going to brake and stop the car while driving it?
I thought that might be a valid question. btw, how much is an autolock?
In fact we mentioned this in my operations management class about using various techniques to get parts. One of the parts mentioned was the brake pedal. As it seems my prof's father use to have a company that made these miscellaneous items (in the 60's and 70's) and he commented that the steel for that part is the toughest.
now question, if they hypothetically cut off the brake pedal--how the heck are they going to brake and stop the car while driving it?
I thought that might be a valid question. btw, how much is an autolock?
Originally posted by kmax
I think you mean they break the Autolock and not the pedal right?
Are you sure what you saw on TLC was the Autolock and not the one made by the same people who make the Club, because that one looks to be weaker than the Autolock?
I think you mean they break the Autolock and not the pedal right?
Are you sure what you saw on TLC was the Autolock and not the one made by the same people who make the Club, because that one looks to be weaker than the Autolock?
03-17-2002, 04:57 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 408
The location of the brake pedal makes it even harder to work with. The thief would need to have the door open for an extended period of time with his legs and body hanging out, while he tried to work from the floor of the car. There's no real room to work a saw down there, either.
The price of the Autolock has come down quite a bit since it first came out. They used to be close to $100. $59 will buy one now... and if you buy a second one at the same time, it's only $39.
http://www.autolock.com
No, I'm NOT affiliated with the company. They just seem to have a good product... which is MILES better than the 'Club'.
Good Luck!
The price of the Autolock has come down quite a bit since it first came out. They used to be close to $100. $59 will buy one now... and if you buy a second one at the same time, it's only $39.
http://www.autolock.com
No, I'm NOT affiliated with the company. They just seem to have a good product... which is MILES better than the 'Club'.
Good Luck!
03-18-2002, 08:26 AM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
autolock DOES work
I spoke to a reputable mechanic at an auto shop and he did agree that the brake pedal arm is extremely strong metal. You will need an arc welder to cut through that thing AND it will take at least 10 minutes. FIRST, a thief is not going to lug around an arc welding set (too damned heavy), and SECOND he will find 10 minutes far too long.
As long as the autolock is installed CORRECTLY, it will work. It is possible to put it in place improperly, so that a thief can wiggle it loose to make the brake pedal usable.
If you employ both an autolock AND a premier club with a metal wheel cap, I'm quite sure no thief is going to bother. Well... unless you were stupid enough to park your McClaren on the street.
I changed my security light to a flashing BLUE LED, which will make a thief wonder if I still have the stock system (is it worth the risk?). Next, I'm going to add a window sticker that says "Guarded by Blue Shocker".
As long as the autolock is installed CORRECTLY, it will work. It is possible to put it in place improperly, so that a thief can wiggle it loose to make the brake pedal usable.
If you employ both an autolock AND a premier club with a metal wheel cap, I'm quite sure no thief is going to bother. Well... unless you were stupid enough to park your McClaren on the street.
I changed my security light to a flashing BLUE LED, which will make a thief wonder if I still have the stock system (is it worth the risk?). Next, I'm going to add a window sticker that says "Guarded by Blue Shocker".
03-18-2002, 03:32 PM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 403
auto lock
i also agree with you guys on the auto lock. it does work but like stated before it can be put on incorrectly. you have to make sure there is no play what so ever on the break. i also heard they can use refrigerent to freeze the lock and bust it off, but there is no room to get a good swing cause its in such a tuff spot.the muti lock is also good but i hear even with that it can be stolen.
i feel secure with my auto lock. i also have other goodies to prevent it from being stolen. the more gadgets you have the better.
Lenny.
i feel secure with my auto lock. i also have other goodies to prevent it from being stolen. the more gadgets you have the better.
Lenny.
03-18-2002, 06:13 PM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 765
Re: auto lock
From what I saw on TLC (The learning channel) they have this device that works somehow on pressure but anyway it can cut the break pedal in less then 30 seconds. They showed it and timed the guy. I'm sure though some punk won't have this but then again people who steal cars usually do this for a living.
03-19-2002, 07:43 AM
#54
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 197
Two systems will help solve this problem.. UNLESS... They decide to tow your vehicle then you have a prob.. Multi-Lock and the Code Alarm... I think the codes ranges something like this...25 to the 4th power.. I'll check on this... That way they can't scan the codes for the alarm like the Viper 550 HF...
03-19-2002, 08:00 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
scanning codes
Originally posted by SonGouko
Two systems will help solve this problem.. UNLESS... They decide to tow your vehicle then you have a prob.. Multi-Lock and the Code Alarm... I think the codes ranges something like this...25 to the 4th power.. I'll check on this... That way they can't scan the codes for the alarm like the Viper 550 HF...
Two systems will help solve this problem.. UNLESS... They decide to tow your vehicle then you have a prob.. Multi-Lock and the Code Alarm... I think the codes ranges something like this...25 to the 4th power.. I'll check on this... That way they can't scan the codes for the alarm like the Viper 550 HF...
I've heard of thieves capturing the signal when you activate your remote. But then they have to be inconspicuously hiding nearby and scan at the right time to get the code.
Well, whatever the case, the thieves who have scanning technology like this are going to be out for more valuable prey. Like BMW's!
03-19-2002, 08:15 AM
#56
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 197
Yes they can scan the codes outside the car...Believe it or not... here in NYC Radio Shack sell an alarm scanner...SO if you have a stock alarm or a relatively old viper, hornet, carbine and a few others you're dead meat if they want your car.. Trust me I should know....
03-19-2002, 11:56 AM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
But what you're talking about is ONLY when the owner activates the remote, right? There should be no way you can easily probe the alarm (like sending it test codes) to eventually discover what combination it responds to. The number of combinations would be huge and could take days of constantly trying.
03-19-2002, 12:35 PM
#58
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 197
Hmmm...Okay... Here goes a little tid bit about alarms... Ex.... I think the Viper 550 HF has something llike 6-7 codes.
Ex: 3456788.. and this is a fact... Using a scanner you can actually get the codes... Once you figure out the first 3-4 digits which takes less than 30 seconds... You're in... that why I believe Viper is comin out with a new alarm SIMULAR to the Code Alarm in which the code will never stay the same EVEN after you turn on the alarm and leave the car.. THAT will make it very hard to figure the code out...
Ex: 3456788.. and this is a fact... Using a scanner you can actually get the codes... Once you figure out the first 3-4 digits which takes less than 30 seconds... You're in... that why I believe Viper is comin out with a new alarm SIMULAR to the Code Alarm in which the code will never stay the same EVEN after you turn on the alarm and leave the car.. THAT will make it very hard to figure the code out...
03-19-2002, 01:00 PM
#59
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 29
95 Max's are OK
Guys, I don't know what you're talking about the passenger door behind the driver not working with the security system. I tried mine yesterday (all doors) and it worked like a charm. Granted, if a thief really wanted to steal it, he (or she) wouldn't have a problem. 95 SE's are good for the back doors though. My previous 85' Max's security system would not work for that back door. You'd think Nissan would learn after 12 years. 
03-22-2002, 12:16 PM
#60
Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 77
Originally posted by gtr_rider
they can just cut your steering wheel you know...Do a little knight rider till they strip the car.
they can just cut your steering wheel you know...Do a little knight rider till they strip the car.
03-23-2002, 04:15 AM
#61
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 197
Re: Re: 95 Max's are OK
Originally posted by Gary95
OK, I'm wondering if maybe the OEM alarm system goes bad after a while? Some people here say their rear doors set off their alarms while others do not.
Well, not only do my rear doors fail, so does my front passenger door as well!! I'm hoping this is just a connector failure of some kind easily corrected... I'm sure DBM would know, but he's nowhere to be found. 
OK, I'm wondering if maybe the OEM alarm system goes bad after a while? Some people here say their rear doors set off their alarms while others do not.
Well, not only do my rear doors fail, so does my front passenger door as well!!
I'm hoping this is just a connector failure of some kind easily corrected... I'm sure DBM would know, but he's nowhere to be found.
How much did you pay for your MAX...amout 10,000 or maybe you bout it new 22,000-25
Well FORGET the factory alarm...stop it
get a after market alarm with a starter disable... it will be one of your better investments for your car.... BUT make sure than when you are buying...ask the dealer if the alarms brain get pulled out if it will still start...?
03-23-2002, 06:03 AM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 108
Hey guys, this thread caught my eye, because my Maxima was recently stolen 2 months ago. Most of the info here is true about the Maxima, I wanted to shoot myself when they found the car, because I realized how easily they took the car. Any Maxima with the factory alarm can be stolen within a couple of mintues by anyone who can break a window/jimmy a lock and break a tumbler or snip and tap some wires. I lost over $10,000 worth of UNINSURED audio/video equipment. The funny this is that I install car alarms, and I was just to lazy to put in an aftermarket alarm and add the extra insurance. I was getting around to it, but they got me first. If you are putting anything into your vehicle that is worth anything, the FIRST thing you should do, even before you put the equipment in is make sure insurance knows about it, then get an aftermarket alarm, THEN put the actual equipment in. Trust me, I found out the hardway, I could've had a check for $10,000 in my hand, but I wanted to get the equipment in my car first and add insurance and the real alarm on my car later. Big Mistake!! So yes we do drive a very vulnerable vehicle, be sure to protect yourself somehow.
03-23-2002, 06:57 AM
#63
When you park your car somewhere that it can be towed, you should turn the wheels all the way to one side. This makes it more difficult for it to be towed by thieves. I'm not saying that it can't be towed, but it makes it more difficult.
I also have the Autolock that was mentioned earlier on in this thread. It definately would make stealing my car more difficult. The position that a thief would have to be in to work on it, would make the job more difficult, so I'm confident when I have that on my car.
I'm also planning on getting an aftermarket alarm as well. I've heard good things about Clifford, but I'm still doing my Alarm Research, so I don't know what I'm getting yet.
I'm also considering a kill switch.
So, if a thief can get my my alarm, get my Autolock off, and then get by my kill switch, they can have my car, because they've probably already done enough damage to the car where I wouldn't want it anymore.
My $.02,
-Nick
I also have the Autolock that was mentioned earlier on in this thread. It definately would make stealing my car more difficult. The position that a thief would have to be in to work on it, would make the job more difficult, so I'm confident when I have that on my car.
I'm also planning on getting an aftermarket alarm as well. I've heard good things about Clifford, but I'm still doing my Alarm Research, so I don't know what I'm getting yet.
I'm also considering a kill switch.
So, if a thief can get my my alarm, get my Autolock off, and then get by my kill switch, they can have my car, because they've probably already done enough damage to the car where I wouldn't want it anymore.
My $.02,
-Nick
03-23-2002, 01:45 PM
#64
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 197
OKAY PEOPLE....What is the deal with yall and the factory alarm... Gary... Matter of fact everyone... When you buy a new maxima becareful... IT IS NOT A ALARM... In order for it to have some sort of protection that's why Nissan offers a passive interface... BUT of course you have to pay extra for this.. bunch of thieves...
03-23-2002, 03:34 PM
#65
Damn, my factory alarm works good. It's a 95, all doors and the hood and trunk trigger the alarm, and according to my FSM the cylinders in the doors and trunk lid all have a tamper sensor as well. I am not testing that but, it is supposed to sound the alarm if someone removes one of the lock cylinders. Don't think that I rely on this though. I also have an Autoloc shift lock and love it.
For those of you getting aftermarket alarms, at least now you can add some other nice features like window modules and stuff.
For those of you getting aftermarket alarms, at least now you can add some other nice features like window modules and stuff.
03-23-2002, 08:33 PM
#67
Originally posted by Nismo98
I have 98' SE and it didn't come with a factory alarm, can you belive that. Who else doesn't have this option.
Andrei
I have 98' SE and it didn't come with a factory alarm, can you belive that. Who else doesn't have this option.
Andrei
I'm also so happy to see that my thread has gone so far...although a great topic, a lot of the haters
have been hating on my skills to perform on this thread...hope this changes their opinion about me
03-24-2002, 04:41 AM
#68
Licensed to Spell
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
:o)
I went out to my car ('96 GLE) immediately after reading this. It's 3:00 am - my poor neighbors! First I read the owner's manual. Just as I had remembered, it says that the alarm will sound if the doors, trunk or hood are opened. I then tested this. I tried multiple tests. First I stayed in the car, armed the alarm, waited the 30 seconds for the alarm LED to go from solid to flashing and then I unlocked the door(s) manually. I repeated this four times. All four doors triggered the alarm. I then armed the car, waited, and pushed the trunk release button, the alarm sounded. Ditto for the hood. Next I stayed out of the car, held down the door pin, armed the car, waited 30 seconds, released door pin. Alarm sounded. I repeated this procedure for all 6 pins. Same result. So I wonder why some of you say the rear doors won't set off the alarm. I have a feeling you are a.) doing it wrong (ex. not waiting 30 secs, etc.) or b.) your alarm is broken. I am pretty positive that the factory alarm sounds for all 4 doors and the hood and trunk.
Some other notes of interest:
I tried to start my car while the alarm was sounding. It did not start (as correctly stated in the owner's manual). I did notice that if I left the trunk or hood open and armed the car, the alarm would NOT sound when I opened the doors. I also noticed the alarm could not be set at all if any of the four doors were left open.
With all that said, I am a big advocate of aftermarket security. Although I haven't done added extra security myself yet (shame on me), I think I better soon after all the thousands I have spent. I beleive in a good, high quality alarm, a combo of security (ex. an alarm AND club) as well as creative ideas (ex. chain your hood down so they can't pop in and cut the horn wire, use security head screws for any stereo stuff, use a fake faceplate over an aftermarket stereo, place additional LEDs, use two wheel locks of different type on each wheel, kill switch(es), etc., etc. - be creative). And don't forget the obvious: park under a light at night, park in a busy area, don't leave things of value on your seats/visible, when having your car serviced give them only the car key (ex. not house key) and take your registration with you (your address is on it), don't go thumping your stereo right before you park, etc., etc.
Hope I helped some.
First I read the owner's manual. Just as I had remembered, it says that the alarm will sound if the doors, trunk or hood are opened. I then tested this. I tried multiple tests. First I stayed in the car, armed the alarm, waited the 30 seconds for the alarm LED to go from solid to flashing and then I unlocked the door(s) manually. I repeated this four times. All four doors triggered the alarm. I then armed the car, waited, and pushed the trunk release button, the alarm sounded. Ditto for the hood. Next I stayed out of the car, held down the door pin, armed the car, waited 30 seconds, released door pin. Alarm sounded. I repeated this procedure for all 6 pins. Same result. So I wonder why some of you say the rear doors won't set off the alarm. I have a feeling you are a.) doing it wrong (ex. not waiting 30 secs, etc.) or b.) your alarm is broken. I am pretty positive that the factory alarm sounds for all 4 doors and the hood and trunk. Some other notes of interest:
I tried to start my car while the alarm was sounding. It did not start (as correctly stated in the owner's manual). I did notice that if I left the trunk or hood open and armed the car, the alarm would NOT sound when I opened the doors.
I also noticed the alarm could not be set at all if any of the four doors were left open. With all that said, I am a big advocate of aftermarket security. Although I haven't done added extra security myself yet (shame on me), I think I better soon after all the thousands I have spent. I beleive in a good, high quality alarm, a combo of security (ex. an alarm AND club) as well as creative ideas (ex. chain your hood down so they can't pop in and cut the horn wire, use security head screws for any stereo stuff, use a fake faceplate over an aftermarket stereo, place additional LEDs, use two wheel locks of different type on each wheel, kill switch(es), etc., etc. - be creative). And don't forget the obvious: park under a light at night, park in a busy area, don't leave things of value on your seats/visible, when having your car serviced give them only the car key (ex. not house key) and take your registration with you (your address is on it), don't go thumping your stereo right before you park, etc., etc.
Hope I helped some.
03-24-2002, 07:13 AM
#69
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 197
Well I never said Nissan did not give an alarm what I said was the passive interface was an option... This interface helps protect the glass and trunk... How many thieves you know actually sit there and open the doors to get in...??
They go for the glass... and if I can break your glass cut the sensor(brain)... I'll be
"Gone In 60 Seconds" ....
They go for the glass... and if I can break your glass cut the sensor(brain)... I'll be
"Gone In 60 Seconds"
....
03-28-2002, 12:24 PM
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
Alarm spec ?
Maybe that's my problem--I didn't wait for the alarm light to go to flashing mode.
Does anyone know if there is an alarm spec anywhere? The Haynes manual conveniently avoids it altogether. I'm wondering if there is any trouble-shooting tips available somewhere also...
If I bought a Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, or other high-end car, I would get the full works... because at that point, the money wouldn't matter much. For my Maxima, I think a kill switch and internal sensor would be enough...
Thanks for the suggestion Toolrocks--I'll go get an FSM.
Does anyone know if there is an alarm spec anywhere? The Haynes manual conveniently avoids it altogether. I'm wondering if there is any trouble-shooting tips available somewhere also...
If I bought a Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, or other high-end car, I would get the full works... because at that point, the money wouldn't matter much. For my Maxima, I think a kill switch and internal sensor would be enough...
Thanks for the suggestion Toolrocks--I'll go get an FSM.
03-28-2002, 12:45 PM
#71
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,406
Re: :o)
Originally posted by ptatohed
I went out to my car ('96 GLE) immediately after reading this. It's 3:00 am - my poor neighbors! First I read the owner's manual. Just as I had remembered, it says that the alarm will sound if the doors, trunk or hood are opened. I then tested this. I tried multiple tests. First I stayed in the car, armed the alarm, waited the 30 seconds for the alarm LED to go from solid to flashing and then I unlocked the door(s) manually. I repeated this four times. All four doors triggered the alarm. I then armed the car, waited, and pushed the trunk release button, the alarm sounded. Ditto for the hood. Next I stayed out of the car, held down the door pin, armed the car, waited 30 seconds, released door pin. Alarm sounded. I repeated this procedure for all 6 pins. Same result. So I wonder why some of you say the rear doors won't set off the alarm. I have a feeling you are a.) doing it wrong (ex. not waiting 30 secs, etc.) or b.) your alarm is broken. I am pretty positive that the factory alarm sounds for all 4 doors and the hood and trunk.
Some other notes of interest:
I tried to start my car while the alarm was sounding. It did not start (as correctly stated in the owner's manual). I did notice that if I left the trunk or hood open and armed the car, the alarm would NOT sound when I opened the doors. I also noticed the alarm could not be set at all if any of the four doors were left open.
With all that said, I am a big advocate of aftermarket security. Although I haven't done added extra security myself yet (shame on me), I think I better soon after all the thousands I have spent. I beleive in a good, high quality alarm, a combo of security (ex. an alarm AND club) as well as creative ideas (ex. chain your hood down so they can't pop in and cut the horn wire, use security head screws for any stereo stuff, use a fake faceplate over an aftermarket stereo, place additional LEDs, use two wheel locks of different type on each wheel, kill switch(es), etc., etc. - be creative). And don't forget the obvious: park under a light at night, park in a busy area, don't leave things of value on your seats/visible, when having your car serviced give them only the car key (ex. not house key) and take your registration with you (your address is on it), don't go thumping your stereo right before you park, etc., etc.
Hope I helped some.
I went out to my car ('96 GLE) immediately after reading this. It's 3:00 am - my poor neighbors!
First I read the owner's manual. Just as I had remembered, it says that the alarm will sound if the doors, trunk or hood are opened. I then tested this. I tried multiple tests. First I stayed in the car, armed the alarm, waited the 30 seconds for the alarm LED to go from solid to flashing and then I unlocked the door(s) manually. I repeated this four times. All four doors triggered the alarm. I then armed the car, waited, and pushed the trunk release button, the alarm sounded. Ditto for the hood. Next I stayed out of the car, held down the door pin, armed the car, waited 30 seconds, released door pin. Alarm sounded. I repeated this procedure for all 6 pins. Same result. So I wonder why some of you say the rear doors won't set off the alarm. I have a feeling you are a.) doing it wrong (ex. not waiting 30 secs, etc.) or b.) your alarm is broken. I am pretty positive that the factory alarm sounds for all 4 doors and the hood and trunk. Some other notes of interest:
I tried to start my car while the alarm was sounding. It did not start (as correctly stated in the owner's manual). I did notice that if I left the trunk or hood open and armed the car, the alarm would NOT sound when I opened the doors.
I also noticed the alarm could not be set at all if any of the four doors were left open. With all that said, I am a big advocate of aftermarket security. Although I haven't done added extra security myself yet (shame on me), I think I better soon after all the thousands I have spent. I beleive in a good, high quality alarm, a combo of security (ex. an alarm AND club) as well as creative ideas (ex. chain your hood down so they can't pop in and cut the horn wire, use security head screws for any stereo stuff, use a fake faceplate over an aftermarket stereo, place additional LEDs, use two wheel locks of different type on each wheel, kill switch(es), etc., etc. - be creative). And don't forget the obvious: park under a light at night, park in a busy area, don't leave things of value on your seats/visible, when having your car serviced give them only the car key (ex. not house key) and take your registration with you (your address is on it), don't go thumping your stereo right before you park, etc., etc.
Hope I helped some.
Hey out of all the replies I have heard, you have made the most sense. I see you tested the alarm. The alarm will sound if doors are open etc as ptatoedhed said. Even thought most maximas do need an after market alarm.
03-28-2002, 01:49 PM
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: :o)
A few months ago my car was broken into i woke up the next morning and saw a gapping hole in my rear back window not the rear one but the one next to the rear passenger over the back door and nothing was stolen fortunately i took off my deck and i had the vallet mode on my trunk so you need the key to pop it or else i would have been out a huge nos bottle and some subs! you guys should all put your trunk on vallet mode if they dont have the key they wont get into your trunk
03-28-2002, 02:30 PM
#73
Re: Alarm spec ?
Originally posted by Gary95
Maybe that's my problem--I didn't wait for the alarm light to go to flashing mode.
Does anyone know if there is an alarm spec anywhere? The manuals conveniently avoid it altogether. I'm wondering if there is any trouble-shooting tips available somewhere also... Personally, I think that if the basics work, along with an added cut-off switch, what more do you need for a car like this?
If I bought a Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, or other high-end car, I would get the full works... because at that point, the money wouldn't matter much.
Maybe that's my problem--I didn't wait for the alarm light to go to flashing mode.
Does anyone know if there is an alarm spec anywhere? The manuals conveniently avoid it altogether. I'm wondering if there is any trouble-shooting tips available somewhere also... Personally, I think that if the basics work, along with an added cut-off switch, what more do you need for a car like this?
If I bought a Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, or other high-end car, I would get the full works... because at that point, the money wouldn't matter much.
03-28-2002, 05:50 PM
#74
Re: Re: Re: :o)
Originally posted by XtremeHKS
A few months ago my car was broken into i woke up the next morning and saw a gapping hole in my rear back window not the rear one but the one next to the rear passenger over the back door and nothing was stolen fortunately i took off my deck and i had the vallet mode on my trunk so you need the key to pop it or else i would have been out a huge nos bottle and some subs! you guys should all put your trunk on vallet mode if they dont have the key they wont get into your trunk
A few months ago my car was broken into i woke up the next morning and saw a gapping hole in my rear back window not the rear one but the one next to the rear passenger over the back door and nothing was stolen fortunately i took off my deck and i had the vallet mode on my trunk so you need the key to pop it or else i would have been out a huge nos bottle and some subs! you guys should all put your trunk on vallet mode if they dont have the key they wont get into your trunk
03-28-2002, 06:38 PM
#75
Re: Re: Re: Re: :o)
Originally posted by meccanoble
how do you do this?
how do you do this?
Just don't lock your keys in your trunk. Oh, and your remote will no longer work on the trunk either.
I just took my door panel off and disconnected the button for trunk release on the door. Now my remote still works, and I'm not always accidentally hitting that button with my hip.
What a stupid place to put that button, by the way.
IanS
03-28-2002, 09:26 PM
#76
Originally posted by Gary95
WOW: I just tried my driver's door too--failed. The panic button sure works. And the remote opens/closes doors and trunk. Why would all doors stop triggering the alarm??
That does it. I'm getting an aftermarket alarm. Certainly seems like a wise move, given the average insurance deductible will cover the cost of the alarm!! Now the trick is to find the right one. Time to search the forum...
WOW: I just tried my driver's door too--failed.
The panic button sure works. And the remote opens/closes doors and trunk. Why would all doors stop triggering the alarm??That does it. I'm getting an aftermarket alarm. Certainly seems like a wise move, given the average insurance deductible will cover the cost of the alarm!! Now the trick is to find the right one. Time to search the forum...
In the owners manual it says the alarm does not completely arm for 30 seconds.
IanS
03-29-2002, 12:48 AM
#77
NE1 use an AUTOLOC on a 5-speed?
Just curious. Thinking about getting one, but it seems like it would be more effective on the auto's b/c apparently, with the 5-speed, you have to use the clutch lever, instead of the brake lever.
My concerns with this are:
1) Wouldn't the clutch start/interlock feature be easier to defeat than the automatic's shifter start/interlock feature? I've never gotten a close look under the dash at it, but my guess is, the clutch interlock switch/circuit may be easier to defeat (just in terms of accessibility) than the auto's shifter-interlock, which I suspect is buried somewhere under the shifter or deep in the center console somewhere.
2) Technically, couldn't someone still drive a manual without using the clutch, if they were able to defeat the clutch/start-interlock?
3) Braking is not an issue, regardless of setup, because if they can get it started, any thief can use your e-brake to slow/stop the car.
I know at the end of the day, nothing's failsafe and all you can do is use preventative measures that make your car a less appealing option to the thief than the next one in the lot with NONE of these precautions but, I'd appreciate some feedback on this. . .I'd rather not spend the $50 and find out this thing is a joke to car thieves when used on a 5-speed Maxima.
Thanks!
My concerns with this are:
1) Wouldn't the clutch start/interlock feature be easier to defeat than the automatic's shifter start/interlock feature? I've never gotten a close look under the dash at it, but my guess is, the clutch interlock switch/circuit may be easier to defeat (just in terms of accessibility) than the auto's shifter-interlock, which I suspect is buried somewhere under the shifter or deep in the center console somewhere.
2) Technically, couldn't someone still drive a manual without using the clutch, if they were able to defeat the clutch/start-interlock?
3) Braking is not an issue, regardless of setup, because if they can get it started, any thief can use your e-brake to slow/stop the car.
I know at the end of the day, nothing's failsafe and all you can do is use preventative measures that make your car a less appealing option to the thief than the next one in the lot with NONE of these precautions but, I'd appreciate some feedback on this. . .I'd rather not spend the $50 and find out this thing is a joke to car thieves when used on a 5-speed Maxima.
Thanks!
03-29-2002, 01:29 AM
#78
Licensed to Spell
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: :o)
Originally posted by iansw
A little switch next to the trunk lock mechanism in the trunk.
Just don't lock your keys in your trunk. Oh, and your remote will no longer work on the trunk either.
I just took my door panel off and disconnected the button for trunk release on the door. Now my remote still works, and I'm not always accidentally hitting that button with my hip.
What a stupid place to put that button, by the way.
IanS
A little switch next to the trunk lock mechanism in the trunk.
Just don't lock your keys in your trunk. Oh, and your remote will no longer work on the trunk either.
I just took my door panel off and disconnected the button for trunk release on the door. Now my remote still works, and I'm not always accidentally hitting that button with my hip.
What a stupid place to put that button, by the way.
IanS
03-29-2002, 09:13 AM
#79
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 724
Another confirmation on NO DOOR PROBLEM
Well, that was it--I simply wasn't waiting the 30 seconds for the "alarm" to fully arm. I ran through ptatohed's test and passed with flying colors. 
Whew!
Seems like a waste of money on an older car to put in a whole new alarm system. I'm thinking a kill switch and a shock sensor would do the trick. Time to search the forums to see if someone has already gone through the pain and has suggestions.
Whew!Seems like a waste of money on an older car to put in a whole new alarm system. I'm thinking a kill switch and a shock sensor would do the trick. Time to search the forums to see if someone has already gone through the pain and has suggestions.
03-29-2002, 10:29 AM
#80
With all said and done....
1. I have a friend who is a Nissan dealer....oem alarm cost $25 bucks....go figure how good it is.
2. Anyone know any websites to get the AutoLock cheap or is it pretty much a standard price everywhere?
3. Does tinted windows help in the sense when someone breaks your windows, it doesn't scatter but stay as one piece, this way it'll take longer for them to get in?
1. I have a friend who is a Nissan dealer....oem alarm cost $25 bucks....go figure how good it is.
2. Anyone know any websites to get the AutoLock cheap or is it pretty much a standard price everywhere?
3. Does tinted windows help in the sense when someone breaks your windows, it doesn't scatter but stay as one piece, this way it'll take longer for them to get in?
