AC130_404

I have a 97 Maxima SE, and my front valve cover gasket has had a leak for a while and recently got severe. I figured i’d replace the front and rear while at it, since it’s at about 170,000 miles. I know i have to take some extra stuff off to get to the rear VC, and i prepared with what knowledge i have. I ordered the VC gasket set (Front & Rear, Spark plug rings, and VC bolt grommets), an Intake Plenum gasket, EGR gasket, Throttle Body gasket, and i ordered the knock sensor. I heard to change the knock sensor and injectors, but don’t have extra money to do injectors atm. Any other stuff i should get to prepare, or any other things i should do with everything apart? Any advice or tips for doing all this? I heard using TB cleaner and a rag, or a razor, helps to clean the mating surface of the VC, also to clean out the TB while it’s out. This will be my first time tearing this far into an engine, instead of changing small parts, any advice will be greatly appreciated.

KP11520

A small tube of oil resistant black RTV for the corners of the valve covers.

As far as Fuel Injectors go, these are Re-manufactured OEM and what I used with zero problems.https://www.ebay.com/itm/30278493569...EAAOSwRTtbMnh7
FelPro makes a pack of 6 grommets the injectors seat into. Shop around but should be under $5.
And you'll need 6 of these Injector-Insulators: Nissan 16635-53J0A Shop for best delivered price.
PCV Valve?
Fuel Pressure Regulator?
NGK Plugs?
Coil Packs?
There are 2 different gaskets for the EGR Pipe that will need to be removed and CLEANED

JvG

I would do all that if the REAR VC failed.

Just replace the front VC at this time.

Go ahead and accumulate all the stuff you will need when you chose to remove the intake manifold.
Replace the injectors at that time.

I prefer to do my preventative maintenance when the weather is nice and warm. Not during winter.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Don't forget the PCV valve. Also may want to consider replacing the KS harness while you're in there. Cheap and easy.

Be sure to follow the FSM for torque specs, and torque sequence when putting humpty dumpty back together. Note: the valve cover bolts are in in-lbs, not ft-lbs. They'll snap very easily if you mistakenly use ft-lbs.....

KP11520

Replace the Knock Sensor Harness? My 99 is hard wired to the rest of the Engine Top harness. Yes the plug clip that locks it on has broken so I used nylon ties to secure it. Please add some details cause when I need to change it again I might..... Naaaaaahhhhh. LOL

AC130_404

I have ordered the Knock sensor and the wiring harness with it, ordered some RTV, and i was only disconnecting the egr from the intake plenum, so i i was only changing that one gasket. I’m pretty sure the rear VCG failed as well so that’s why i went ahead and ordered everything for the whole process. Any advice on what to use to clean up the oil and grime from the oil leak so i can detect any new leaks after the repair?

JvG

Part of this comprehensive repair is to remove built up carbon in the EGR tube. It looks like a handle.
also in the egr housing. Crud in these will set off a code.

This fluster cluck might be needed at 100 to 150k.

You really won't enjoy R &R of the intake manifold.
We don't either. That's why you don't want to do this more than once

dsonnylal

iTrader: (3)

You may want to order up the u-shaped coolant hose that’s tucked away behind the manifold. It’s not easy trying to remove it, especially if it’s never been replaced.

caseymaxima

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a part # for that hose?

dsonnylal

iTrader: (3)

part number 14056NB

I believe it’s referred to as a bypass hose