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A few days ago, my 95 max had CEL P0303 and P1320, so I replaced #3 coil with a Hitachi CGC0012, also took out and cleaned the #3 spark plug, Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to fix the issue. If it is not the coil or the spark plug, what else could also potentially cause the #3 cylinder misfire?
Try swapping coil #3 with coil #1 and see if the code jumps to coil #1. I’ve also read that a bad fuel injector can cause a misfire symptom. What’s the mileage?
Try swapping coil #3 with coil #1 and see if the code jumps to coil #1. I’ve also read that a bad fuel injector can cause a misfire symptom. What’s the mileage?
175K miles on the clock. Hopefully it is not a bad fuel injector. I assume #3 injector is under the intake manifold. The location would be a major pain to work on...
In addition, I am also curious on how many of you using Hitachi's coil. I have swap the #1 and #3 coil, and seem to indicate the original #3 was a bad coil, and I then replaced it with the Hitachi coil, but it seems to improve a bit but did not cure the roughness completely.
move the coil around like others have said.
Assume the injector is bad if the problem persists.
Once one injector starts leaking, the others will sooner or later.
the injectors can be rebuilt by Injector RX in Houston for a reasonable price. New injector seals are part of the package. Rebuild or replace all three of the injectors under the manifold. Or you will be removing the manifold another time or two. Better yet, service all 6 of them. The car will run much better.
Also read up on cleaning out the
tube which attaches to the egr valve, and the egr passage. Check the knock sensor for cracks. Might as well clean the throttle body and the intake air control valve while you are in there anyway.
Many of our members have gone through this experience. Yes, it's a pita. Yet the car can be driven an additional 100k miles afterwards.
I've done this task. It's extensive, but doable.
Perhaps moving the coil around might solve your problem. At least we can hope so.
175K miles on the clock. Hopefully it is not a bad fuel injector. I assume #3 injector is under the intake manifold. The location would be a major pain to work on...
Yes, the upper intake manifold would have to be removed to gain access to #3 injector. At 175k miles it’s possible your injector could be the issue. In that case do what JvG has recommended and rebuild or replace all six and also do the other preventative maintenance while you have the manifold off. But before going that far, double check that coil.
Removing the intake is a lot of work, but not that bad. it will be a great opportunity to replace many old gaskets and service a lot of items, and then you will be trouble free for long time.
I know since i did it a couple of years ago and the car runs great since only with fluids/engine air filter replacements
If you do remove the manifold, you should also replace the valve cover gaskets. I didn't do that when I replaced my injectors. So of course the valve civer gaskets started leaking. Which meant that I had to remove the intake manifold again.
The process was easier the second time.
This entire thing is the true definition of a fluster cluck.
There are several items which are much easier to access when the manifold is off. The items will need service sooner or later, or are already over due. Do some research. Learn what to do. Then do everything, all at once. The engine will run amazingly well. It will need little attention afterm all that.
Might as well replace all of the spark plugs if you haven't already. Only NGK brand. Platinum plugs if you will be driving the car for several more years.
Per FSM, P1320 indicates no ignition signal is received in the primary circuit during crank or running.
A coil pack contains a primary circuit and a secondary circuit. In the primary circuit, upon receiving an ECM ignition signal (4volt pulse, equivalent to 0.1-0.3VRMS) it will induce a 20,000-30,000 volt signal in the secondary circuit. This is used to generate sparks at spark plug.
If water or oil get inside spark plug hole (washing engine bay with garden hose or leaking plug tube seal due to high mileage) it can cause short. A misfire will be thrown. When people gets misfire P30# (solid CEL), they (including me) tend to rev the engine or drive around the block. This is bad habit, because this can burn coil pack and cause P1320. This code is irreversible and a permanent fault. You have to replace the damaged/junk coil pack.
If water causes a short: we know water vaporizes at high temp, the cause of short goes away, yahoo! it makes you think driving around helps. Not so fast with oil. It won't vaporize, It sticks around, and you will burn more coil packs.
Another possible cause of P1320 is when there is no ECM signal reaching the PNP power transistor. But at that time you will also get crankshaft codes (POS/speed, or REF/TDC) P335 or P340. However, it seems OP did not get these crankshaft codes.
Snapshot of circuit inside a 99/4th gen coil pack: (Extract from 1999 Maxima FSM EC) An ECM pulse on pin 3 acts as switching signal turning on/off the coil pack. When on, Green shows the current flow in the primary circuit. Red shows the standing voltage in secondary circuit. Short in the secondary circuit may let a large current flow (20k-30k volts). And this may burn/melt coil pack or causes partial melting of internal wiring of the transformer.
Just to follow up. I have done a tuneup with a set of new plugs, fuel filter and PCV valve. It seems help a little, but still not 100%. At this point, I am pretty sure it is the fuel injector. What wound you guys do?
(1) I am pretty sure the issue is on Cylinder #3. Do you guys replace all or just one?
(2) Do you buy new one (Hitachi brand is about $60 each at rockauto? Or you s
My mechanic a couple of weeks ago replaced the rear and front valve cover gaskets on my 1996 Maxima with 282,000 miles. I am retired and have owned the car since new and drive it most of the time. I had asked him if I should have the fuel injectors rebuilt as well and he said not necessary. In retrospect, I should have gone against his advice, but he has been repairing my Maxima for years and has a solid reputation. Does it make sense to just have the front fuel injectors rebuilt or would this cause more problems having three original injectors as well? I hope to keep driving my Maxima for a few more years. I keep thinking I need to sell it before the engine and/or transmission quits on me. Also, I have a long list of lingering problems that need attention, such as worn out struts,=bad motor mount near radiator, disappearing lower control arm bushing due to long-time valve cover leak, badly leaking rear main seal, shot hood supports, crank shaft leak, badly torn front leather seats, original windshield needs replacing; rocker panel and bottom of door dented by trash can top thrown by concrete truck flying by. The body is still in very good shape and I am always getting compliments, but would not get much for it if I let it go.
Do you do some or most of your own mechanical maintenance? Or does your mechanic do most of the work.
Seems like your car is at a crossroad.
It needs a lot of work. Deferred maintenance has piled up.
It would take a whole lot of money to have it fixed if a mechanic does most of the work.
On the other hand, the car could be driven for several more years if all that deferred maintanence has been done. The cost of parts alone will meet or exceed the current value of the car. Or even what it's value would be once the car is all fixed up.
The mechanical tasks could be handled by an experienced hobby mechanic. I've done most of what it needs. Most of it could be done this summer.
My guess is that you have not done much of your own mechanial work on the car since you bought it.
One thought I have is that you might be better off buying another lower mileage similar year Maxima from a rust free part of the country. Chances are that it will have a longer future than the one you own. It's deferred maintenance list might be shorter than your current car.
Do you do some or most of your own mechanical maintenance? Or does your mechanic do most of the work.
Seems like your car is at a crossroad.
It needs a lot of work. Deferred maintenance has piled up.
It would take a whole lot of money to have it fixed if a mechanic does most of the work.
On the other hand, the car could be driven for several more years if all that deferred maintanence has been done. The cost of parts alone will meet or exceed the current value of the car. Or even what it's value would be once the car is all fixed up.
The mechanical tasks could be handled by an experienced hobby mechanic. I've done most of what it needs. Most of it could be done this summer.
My guess is that you have not done much of your own mechanial work on the car since you bought it.
One thought I have is that you might be better off buying another lower mileage similar year Maxima from a rust free part of the country. Chances are that it will have a longer future than the one you own. It's deferred maintenance list might be shorter than your current car.
Come down to Texas the usually don't rust to bad down here...
I'll suggest that WXM use a ole school timing light would help you find you problem a lot faster! Also pulling all your coil pack and using dielectric grease in the spark plug end and connector end would help contain the spark into the plug regardless if it's surrounded and emerged in oil! Get a cheap timing light from Auto Zone, O'Rielly, or Advanced auto parts and connect the leads to the battery and the inductive pickup around the coilpack connector pigtail! Watch the spark events and see it live if it's missing or not!!!
JVG,
You are correct. My mechanic has done most of the repairs to my Maxima over the years. He keeps pushing me to sell the car and stop throwing good money after bad. I have been looking for a 1996 Maxima with lower mileage and that has been maintained better. My trouble is I cannot seem to pull the trigger on getting rid of the Maxima since it still drives great and I love the powerful engine. That craziness goes as well for my 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 that I have owned since new with 121,000 miles and that I have gone overboard in repairs to it in last 4 years - complete new clutch and A/C system, 4 shocks, 4 tires, front suspension and I am still faced with needing to paint passenger side due to badly peeling clear coat ; need to replace the catalytic converter and air bag has been out of commission for several years. Another prime case of might as well fix that too. The has been great for me and for helping out my kids for hauling whatever. I still have my first new car, 1972 Cutlass, that I have tried to sell for some time on the Classic Oldsmobile website. It needs a lot of mechanical and body work and has 192,000 miles on it. Have driven it about 500 miles in last 20 years. Just sits in garage collecting dust and rust!! A couple of years ago, a local shop repair owner wanted to buy the Ranger, Cutlass and Maxima, but practically wanted me to give them to him for what he was willing to pay! My wife said do it, as she has no love for cars like I do. Being retired, I guess I do not have anything better to do, but I would love to do the work myself, but cannot due due to my physical health, 2 car garage and know how limitations. Sorry for rambling on and on, I really do appreciate your vast knowledge and feedback. Tommy
do you live in a part of the country where road salt is used?
I don't know what kind of physical limitations you have. What kind of problems?
Sometimes a late model car makes sense if one can afford it. Especially if one pays a mechanic to service an old car.
Your maxima seems to be near the end of its useful life. It has a lot of miles and it needs work.
Have you looked at maximas on the west coast or in southern states. They are rust free and cheap. A low mileage maxima might be worth considering.
Fly out there, then do a road trip back to where you live.
It's not too late to learn to do stuff if you are able to. Start with easy stuff, then branch out from there. You Tube videos are very useful.
02-01-2020, 01:53 PM
