Crank no start p0335
07-28-2017, 05:50 PM
#1
Crank no start p0335
Sup guys so the other day my car didn't start up and had to get it towed. It would crank continuously but wouldn't start I know the alternator and battery are good. Starter was changed maybe a year ago and maf seems good. Once I was home I put the scanner on and it gave me p0335 and p0304(misfire) so I tried going for the p0335 since I know the misfire wasn't the cause. So I searched and found that it was the sensor by the crankshaft sensor by the flywheel and transmission and I went ahead and ordered a new one and I just finished changing but same problem. Any suggestions on what to try next? Might clean grounds but I doubt that will be the problem.
07-28-2017, 09:51 PM
#2
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
Sup guys so the other day my car didn't start up and had to get it towed. It would crank continuously but wouldn't start I know the alternator and battery are good. Starter was changed maybe a year ago and maf seems good. Once I was home I put the scanner on and it gave me p0335 and p0304(misfire) so I tried going for the p0335 since I know the misfire wasn't the cause. So I searched and found that it was the sensor by the crankshaft sensor by the flywheel and transmission and I went ahead and ordered a new one and I just finished changing but same problem. Any suggestions on what to try next? Might clean grounds but I doubt that will be the problem.
07-28-2017, 09:53 PM
#3
Yea that's the sensor that I changed out but I will go for that one next since I have no clue where else to start
07-28-2017, 10:42 PM
#4
If the car is a 99, check and see if the res security led to the left of the steering column is on while you crank.
To check if the MAF is bad, unplug the wires from the MAF and see if the car starts. The engine will start with the MAF unplugged.
Spray some starting fluid/ether or other flammable stuff into the intake manifold while you are cranking the engine. Maybe you are not getting fuel.
To check if the MAF is bad, unplug the wires from the MAF and see if the car starts. The engine will start with the MAF unplugged.
Spray some starting fluid/ether or other flammable stuff into the intake manifold while you are cranking the engine. Maybe you are not getting fuel.
07-29-2017, 07:00 AM
#5
If the car is a 99, check and see if the res security led to the left of the steering column is on while you crank.
To check if the MAF is bad, unplug the wires from the MAF and see if the car starts. The engine will start with the MAF unplugged.
Spray some starting fluid/ether or other flammable stuff into the intake manifold while you are cranking the engine. Maybe you are not getting fuel.
To check if the MAF is bad, unplug the wires from the MAF and see if the car starts. The engine will start with the MAF unplugged.
Spray some starting fluid/ether or other flammable stuff into the intake manifold while you are cranking the engine. Maybe you are not getting fuel.
Where do i spray it into so it can get into the manifold? through the brake booster hose?
Would it be possible for it to be the starter even though the car cranks?
07-29-2017, 09:50 AM
#6
You can spray starting fluid into any opening that goes into the intake manifold. The brake booster hose would work. It takes a little more effort but I believe it is best to spray into the air intake that comes from the air filter and goes into the MAF.
A starter could cause the problem if it were not cranking the engine over fast enough. Cranking speed is 350 rpm, but you can't rely on the car's tach for this, you would need an external tach. Most likely you would be able to tell this by the sound.
The P0335 code should be the definitive indication. Did you clear the code after you replaced the crankshaft sensor and then re-check after trying the start the car? If the P0335 code came back, then maybe you have a broken wire. between it and the ECU.
A starter could cause the problem if it were not cranking the engine over fast enough. Cranking speed is 350 rpm, but you can't rely on the car's tach for this, you would need an external tach. Most likely you would be able to tell this by the sound.
The P0335 code should be the definitive indication. Did you clear the code after you replaced the crankshaft sensor and then re-check after trying the start the car? If the P0335 code came back, then maybe you have a broken wire. between it and the ECU.
07-29-2017, 01:46 PM
#7
Sensor
well I got a replacement sensor for the one next to the oil filter and still didn't fix the problem I erased the codes but no codes are coming up. Took the battery to charge because it was lagging to crank after a while so I'm going to pick it up in a little and see how it acts. Might go for starter in a little if nothing happens. Meanwhile I'll try the fluid in the manifold
07-29-2017, 06:27 PM
#9
Alright guys well i tried cranking the car with the MAF disconnected and still no start. Cranked the car and the security light is not lit so its not the NATS. Going to check the fuel pressure next since im thinking it might be the fuel pump. Any way about going on checking the fuel pump i was just going to disconnect the fuel line when i put the key on acc and see if there is pressure or check the voltage with a multimeter. Anyone know the resistance? Any other suggestions other than the fuel pump? Starter good, sensors good(most likely since replaced), and battery good. Thanks for the help guys dont have much help other than you guys.
07-30-2017, 10:38 AM
#10
One thing you need to know about the fuel pump is that it does not run if the engine is not running. The ECU turns the fuel pump on and off. If the ECU does not detect any pulses coming from the flywheel crankshaft sensor (CKPS[POS]), it will shut the fuel pump off.
07-30-2017, 09:06 PM
#13
Yea I was checking the harness and followed it but it doesn't look damaged. I'm going to have to try and follow the harness. I keep trying to crank the car and checking for codes after but no codes come up.
07-31-2017, 09:05 AM
#14
A visual inspection is a good starting point, but far from 100% proof positive. Continuity testing of a wire is an electrical test. The way to do it is to use a meter.
There are 3 wires on the flywheel sensor and 2 of them are fairly easy. You have a red wire that is 12 volts. Unplug the wire harness connector from the sensor, turn the ignition to the ON position and check for 12 volts in the wire harness.
The black wire is chassis ground. Switch the meter to measure ohms and connect one of the meter leads on the black wire and the other lead to a good ground spot. You should have (ideally) zero ohms. You will probably have 2 - 3 ohms which is OK.
Now the 3rd wire is a little more difficult. This is the white wire in the middle of the connector. This wire carries the signal pulses from the sensor to the ECU. Make sure the ignition key is off and remove the connector from the ECU. There are 3 slightly different ways of doing the continuity test. I'll go with the easiest of the 3.
At the crankshaft sensor connector, connect a jumper wire between the white wire and ground. Go inside the car and measure from the ECU connector pin 85 to chassis ground. The ohmmeter should ideally show zero ohms.
There are 3 wires on the flywheel sensor and 2 of them are fairly easy. You have a red wire that is 12 volts. Unplug the wire harness connector from the sensor, turn the ignition to the ON position and check for 12 volts in the wire harness.
The black wire is chassis ground. Switch the meter to measure ohms and connect one of the meter leads on the black wire and the other lead to a good ground spot. You should have (ideally) zero ohms. You will probably have 2 - 3 ohms which is OK.
Now the 3rd wire is a little more difficult. This is the white wire in the middle of the connector. This wire carries the signal pulses from the sensor to the ECU. Make sure the ignition key is off and remove the connector from the ECU. There are 3 slightly different ways of doing the continuity test. I'll go with the easiest of the 3.
At the crankshaft sensor connector, connect a jumper wire between the white wire and ground. Go inside the car and measure from the ECU connector pin 85 to chassis ground. The ohmmeter should ideally show zero ohms.
07-31-2017, 05:41 PM
#15
A visual inspection is a good starting point, but far from 100% proof positive. Continuity testing of a wire is an electrical test. The way to do it is to use a meter.
There are 3 wires on the flywheel sensor and 2 of them are fairly easy. You have a red wire that is 12 volts. Unplug the wire harness connector from the sensor, turn the ignition to the ON position and check for 12 volts in the wire harness.
The black wire is chassis ground. Switch the meter to measure ohms and connect one of the meter leads on the black wire and the other lead to a good ground spot. You should have (ideally) zero ohms. You will probably have 2 - 3 ohms which is OK.
Now the 3rd wire is a little more difficult. This is the white wire in the middle of the connector. This wire carries the signal pulses from the sensor to the ECU. Make sure the ignition key is off and remove the connector from the ECU. There are 3 slightly different ways of doing the continuity test. I'll go with the easiest of the 3.
At the crankshaft sensor connector, connect a jumper wire between the white wire and ground. Go inside the car and measure from the ECU connector pin 85 to chassis ground. The ohmmeter should ideally show zero ohms.
There are 3 wires on the flywheel sensor and 2 of them are fairly easy. You have a red wire that is 12 volts. Unplug the wire harness connector from the sensor, turn the ignition to the ON position and check for 12 volts in the wire harness.
The black wire is chassis ground. Switch the meter to measure ohms and connect one of the meter leads on the black wire and the other lead to a good ground spot. You should have (ideally) zero ohms. You will probably have 2 - 3 ohms which is OK.
Now the 3rd wire is a little more difficult. This is the white wire in the middle of the connector. This wire carries the signal pulses from the sensor to the ECU. Make sure the ignition key is off and remove the connector from the ECU. There are 3 slightly different ways of doing the continuity test. I'll go with the easiest of the 3.
At the crankshaft sensor connector, connect a jumper wire between the white wire and ground. Go inside the car and measure from the ECU connector pin 85 to chassis ground. The ohmmeter should ideally show zero ohms.
08-15-2017, 07:36 PM
#17
Alright so I got the car checked out by a couple of people no codes and had a key smith confirm it's not immobilized and that they key is programmed. My last thought is that it is going to be the ecu so I am going to take it out sometime this week and get it tested. Any thoughts on the situation?
08-16-2017, 12:41 PM
#19
well I got a replacement sensor for the one next to the oil filter and still didn't fix the problem I erased the codes but no codes are coming up. Took the battery to charge because it was lagging to crank after a while so I'm going to pick it up in a little and see how it acts. Might go for starter in a little if nothing happens. Meanwhile I'll try the fluid in the manifold
Was this the sensor you changed? I normally don't work on the car myself, but the cam position sensor was one of the parts I did swap myself at one point. I just don't recall seeing an oil filter near it when I did....
08-17-2017, 09:36 AM
#20
Sensor
Yea I didn't end up changing that sensor. The one I changed was the CPKS sensor that was near the oil pan and the one near the transmission and flywheel. I think the one you changed was the camshaft sensor which I will try but I'm thinking the problem is with my ECU because I'm not getting any codes.
08-17-2017, 11:35 AM
#21
I had the occasional random cranking with no start issue, along with a CEL code (forgot what it was) before i swapped out the cam position sensor. I no longer encountered the issue after. Worth a try as the part really isn't expensive. I think i picked up a beck arnley one.
08-17-2017, 02:24 PM
#24
08-17-2017, 05:56 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
This is starting to sound like my 99 adventure a few years ago. Did you notice any unburned fuel from the exhaust. Do you have any wet plugs? Have you tried holding the accelerator to the floor at WOT while you try to start it to clear a major flooding problem?
08-17-2017, 07:57 PM
#26
Not really but my car would misfire here and there so I would sometimes smell unburned fuel in the mornings. The plugs were fine when I checked them they weren't wet. And I have yet to try turning it on at WOT but I will try it. Looks like I'm going to just save up some money and track down the problem but it seems like it will be hard to diagnose and will likely end up taking it to Nissan to diagnose.