When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I NO ITS ALOT BUT IM JUST TELLING YOU EVERYTHING SO THERES NO CONFUSION. IF SOMEONE ACTUALLY HELPS SOLVE THIS PROBLEM ILL SERIOUSLY SEND YOU MONEY FOR A HUGE CASE OF COLD ONES AND A STEAK!!!!!
so a few weeks ago my car started cutting out/popping/bogging when I pressed the pedal hard. sometimes it would even stall at idle. and sometimes it would surge while holding the pedal down steady. it came and went so a week ago I changed the fuel filter. once I changed the filter it got worse. now its everytime I press the pedal down it either pops and bogs or surged and can smell gas. I cant figure it out I need help so bad. this is what ive done. tested the fuel pump. test fuel pressure. fuel doesn't come out of the fpr vacuum line. I pulled my injectors up and turned the key on for pressure and they didn't leak. and btw when I did that the intake manifold (not the plentum) had gas in a few ports and reeked of gas. I just put new plugs and coils in because I noticed while I was trouble shooting this problem that there was spark plug arking coming from a valve cover bolt to the valve cover (I NO CRAZY RIGHT?) so I figure a coil was cracked or something. I haven't seem it ark since but the problem still remains. the manifold and plentum have new gaskets as do the valve covers. the egr was deleted for months ago so that's not it. the maf is brand new n I just cleaned it today just to see lol. the tps I just changed this weekend. the iavc its clicking but I doubt that's whats causing this to happen while parked or driving. I replaced pcv and adjusted the tps and fuel/air screw so many times to see if it was that. vacuum lines are good. cold air intake on the car. please give me some ideas guys I bought it 4 months ago and did all this work and money into it I cant lose her now lol. the only thing I can think of is the fpr or injectors are bad and they didn't show it when I tested it or maybe crank sensor or crank position sensor or some other sensor or somethings going on with the car electronically. please help!
the only code was tps and cps. replaced tps and did ohm test on cps but for some reason the codes went away and I didn't reset it. and a video wont help. I hit the pedal and it surges up n down and pops n bogs and smells like gas.
Do a resistance test on your IAT sensor. There should be a chart to tell you go-no go based on ohms and temp. Test in in ambient conditions and then heat it up in a pot of water (not completely submerged) just the tip. Verify the IAT sensor is working at both ends of the temperature spectrum.
what is an iat the little intake temp sensor? and the maf was replaced 4 months ago with one of those rebuilt oem ones. could it be crank sensor crank position sensor or something?
i know that but what I am saying is that this problem came and went as a here and there light spudder under throttle then all the sudden showed up one night as a full bang. if u read my entire post u can smell gas and what not so I doubt the maf would come and go n them come blazing and make the car smell like unburnt fuel. I had a check light before this for cps and throttle sensor. I changed the tps. did ohm test on cps but it still could be bad a guess that code has came and went for months now. when my maf went bad last time I got codes and the car just wouldn't rev past 3000rpm. not like what its doing now surging and popping smellin like gas.
I'm still convinced thats a maf issue. Mafs don't always fail immediately. I have a ford that had a rough idle then suddenly would surge like crazy. Not long after, the car wouldn't stay on without revving it, and even so, it still wouldn't rev that high. Replaced maf with oem junkyard maf and that was that.
I posted a WTB on this forum and received an OEM MAF (pink JECS sticker) for a very fair price.
Base-lining your MAF is the only way to get the best helpers here to help you.
+1 - The WTB section is a good place to find a tested used one.
Over the years I've learned to keep a spare working MAF in my garage workshop for the times when I need one to rule out a potential problem. Regardless of what your problem turns out to be, it pays to keep a working MAF on hand. Sooner or later you will need it.
Here's how I do it.
1) Find a local salvage yard that gives a money back or a credit voucher for parts that are found to be non-working. You are in luck on this one. There is a big Pull-A-Part in Charlotte, NC right there on N. Tryon St. Here's the web page --> http://www.pullapart.com/locations/charlotte/
From the P-a-P inventory list, I see nine (9) 4th gen Maximas and one (1) 99 model Q45, and one (1) I30 in their inventory list. The web site lists MAFs at $27. As far as salvage yards go, I really prefer pull-a-part. I've actually driven to Memphis TN a couple of times over the years to collect hard to find Infiniti parts. P-a-P seems to always have the best price. IIRC, for a few bucks extra, I could have purchased an extended warranty. However, I never opted for it.
2) Try to find a wrecked car that still has the MAF or a car that doesn't look like someone has been tearing the engine apart while trying to find a gremlin. Only buy a used MAF that looks like your OEM. Early in my Nissan adventures, I made the mistake of purchasing a couple of new looking MAFs from a salvage yard car to find they were bad aftermarkets. I always wondered if a bad MAF was part of the reason the car went to the salvage yard in the first place. I've seen some decent looking 4th gens in salvage yards with bad MAFs that I'm sure the owner didn't understand how to maintain the car and just gave up.
3) Install the MAF in the parking lot of the salvage yard to see if it works before you leave. If you car runs better, consider yourself lucky and drive it home. If it doesn't run better, take the MAF back for a credit or refund and try another MAF from another car. On average, I have usually have to return 1 out of 2 MAFs that I purchase at a yard to get a good one. One time a few years ago, I hit the jackpot and found two good working MAFs on the same day. That was the winter that a gave one away to a single mom with (3 kids) who was trying to sell her 97 model I30 on Craig's List because nobody could figure out the stalling problem for less than $600. I went to look at the car and could immediately tell she had a bad MAF. So I said to her, I'll be back in a few minutes with the part that will fix your car. I returned, installed the MAF and fixed her I30 that afternoon. She took the car off the market and kept driving it. Also, she couldn't believe that a person who came to look at the car she was attempting to sell fixed it for her -- no charge.
4) If I were to go the that salvage yard in Charlotte, I would head straight for the Q45 and check its MAF first. That car is most likely in the salvage yard because the 1) transmission failed, 2) a fuel pump failed and some unknowing wrench tripped the NATS system causing the ECU to be declared bad, or 3) it was wrecked. Most parts scavenger people don't know the MAF from a 2nd gen Q45 is the same MAF that is used in the 4th gen Maxima. So they will walk right past it and never look or when they do look into the engine compartment it scares them and they run. Also, note the I30 from the same 4th gen years uses the same MAF.
Sounds like a mis-fire. hmmm. I would re-check the new plugs and and coils as well.The intake being wet looking when opened is normal. If you smell raw fuel check the cross over for leaks, you said the injectors weren't leaking koeo, correct? If no leaks, and they all spec. A Compression Test is in Order..Did this happen before or after you installed the Cold air intake ? ..is there a ton of black smoke or just the strong odor of gas? Need a engine pic...Come one, dont be Shy.
Last edited by Reality sucks; 11-02-2016 at 09:07 PM.
thousand for the MAF. You have a cold air intake. Does it have a K&N type oiled filter on the end? If you over oil them, the oil could leak off and kill/damage the MAF as well.
SO guys it wasnt the maf. Any ideas. Also at the same time i did the fuel filter i did the oil pan and gasket change and changed oil. Do u think it could have anything to so with the new pan n oil change. Still think its a sensor or something but maybe oil got somewhere it shouldnt or something.
You not getting an any CEL codes. Right? That's puzzling. I don't see how changing the oil and resealing the little lower oil pan would cause the issue. Were you having any issues that made you want to change the fuel filter?
Is there any chance the wire that runs from the crankshaft position sensor along the front of the engine may be breaking down? I would think you would get a code if that was happening.
Any chance the cable in this picture that runs to the crankshaft position sensor could be loose or losing contact?
No that wire is fine. Its seems that my upper oil pan is leaking way more n there way oil trying to come out of my oil cap. Maybe i over filled the oil after i changed the oil pan. What would happen if the oil way over filled would this cause running issues.
No that wire is fine. Its seems that my upper oil pan is leaking way more n there way oil trying to come out of my oil cap. Maybe i over filled the oil after i changed the oil pan. What would happen if the oil way over filled would this cause running issues.
Get that checked immediately. If it's over by 1 qt or more you're in trouble.
I did it was a tiny bit above the h n i drained it. Why what would happen if it was over filled. I no some cars have extra room for an opps but this motor is so compacted lol. What would happen.
Well i dont think its that bc my upper pan was leaking a little before this. Bc of the steady surge that occurs when i give it throttle whether im moving or not i feel like its a sensor doing that. Or maybe fuel pressure regulator is bad but not leakin out the vacuum line. Im so lost with this one ive figured everything else out i need my baby back.
Well i dont think its that bc my upper pan was leaking a little before this. Bc of the steady surge that occurs when i give it throttle whether im moving or not i feel like its a sensor doing that. Or maybe fuel pressure regulator is bad but not leakin out the vacuum line. Im so lost with this one ive figured everything else out i need my baby back.
you and me both, i have so many little repairs that popped up all at once, i just ordered another coil pack and a right side lca, and i need the egr tube cleaned out and possibly replaced, and an alignment as well. hopefully that'll fix everything for now.
What is the mileage on the car and had the timing chain/tension ever been checked or replaced? I have seen issues such as yours on a few different cars with high mileage when the timing chain starts to stretch and/or the tensioner goes bad. This can throw off your timing and cause similar issues to what you are seeing, many times without actually throwing a code.
Man I've been thinking about this problem all weekend. I wish I had an answer.
Here's some questions below:
Are you running the stock exhaust system? Is there anything that could be obstructing exhaust flow after the engine starts running like a collapsed muffler or clogged cat?
Are you using a Y-pipe that allowed you to delete the cats?
A few years ago I had a real puzzling problem with my 99 model. It turned out to be from clogged cats. I was able to identify it was an exhaust restriction problem by removing the front O2 sensors. I left them plugged in and started the car. The engine could then breathe through the open O2 sensor holes.
Many years before that I had a muffler collapse on a 74 model GM V8 while driving down the interstate at 65 MPH. The car would start and idle for a short while before it the exhaust restriction made it feel like it had jumped timing. That experience is how I got the idea to remove the O2 sensors to allow the engine to breathe when I started having strange problems with the 99 Maxima.
Shes been straight piped since a week after i bought it. No cat res or muffler. Could it have something to do with the oil change i did. It seems like right after i did the new oil pan n oil change its doing this. All new sensors but the knock n cam. Checked while fuel system. Plugs n coils. New. Everythings getting power. Maybe a bad oil pressure sending unit? Maybe not all oil came out when i did the pan n such so it got over filled? Even tho i drained a quart thinkin maybe that was it already no change. Only think i think is timing slipped on the first start after i did the pan n oil change. Or it was over filled n broke the sending unit or something weird like that? Knock sensor. Cam sensor. O2s ugh Idk but i need my car bad. I dont wanna have to go buy a 200 dollar honda to get around till i find the problem. I searched the web n youtube for ever now n havent found anything close except for some 4cyl corolla doing the same exact thing and it was a bad coil pack driver? But this car doesnt have that. Everyone else it was just staying at 3000rpm or something now boggin out or whatever. idk man. Im so lost. Never been defeated like this lol.
Ok. No exhaust restrictions at play on this one. Let's start a checklist for items to rule out.
As a side note, sometime ago I overfilled the oil on one of my 4th gens by roughly 3/4 of a quart while using an additive to help a tensioner issue. It actually made things worse. It didn't take but a minute to detect because the knocking made the engine sound like a Diesel. If you have the oil back to a normal level, I think we can rule that out. If the oil pressure sensor was bad, I think you would be getting an oil light.
1) Are you seeing or smelling unburned fuel coming from the tailpipe after it starts running? The concern here is the O2 sensors may be detecting too much fuel after the engine starts running. Too much fuel could could be setting off changes as the ECU tries to compensate for it and causing running issues.
2) Has the transmission been replaced or separated from the engine in the past?
3) Can you check the ground cable from the battery to the engine block? Need to make sure there is a good ground from the body to the engine block. I've actually hooked a jumper cable from the body to the engine block to rule out a grounding issue.
4) How many miles does your car have on it?
5) You've swapped in an OEM MAF from another car -- no change.
6) Are you sure the check engine light is working? I've seen cases where a "previous owner" would disconnect the CEL light bulb to hide problem from buyer. I've you've seen a CEL and had it reset in the past, then this is ok.
7) How many miles does you car have on it?
About 3 years ago, I changed the valve cover gaskets on did intake plenum removal with a EGR tube cleanup on one of my 4th gens. I didn't touch the injector rails or injectors during that operation. I had no reason to suspect a leaking injector issue at that time so I didn't touch them. Unfortunately, I had leaking injectors that I didn't find until much later and after a lot of money. It seemed like it all surfaced after some unrelated maintenance had occurred. It was a strange coincidence, but it happened.
Yes u can deff smell its running rich. Oem maf. Oem everything. Idk if the tranny has been removed. Check light works fine i use it all the time. Pulled fuel rail up n turned key nothing leaked.
11-01-2016, 08:00 PM
thousand for the MAF. You have a cold air intake. Does it have a K&N type oiled filter on the end? If you over oil them, the oil could leak off and kill/damage the MAF as well.
hopefully that'll fix everything for now.
