No Crank/start situation
#1
No Crank/start situation
got a 4th gen that will not crank. it has a new ignition switch in it, a new stater and a new fuel pump, it suddenly decided it does not want to start. I hear the starter click as if the gear is engaging but then nothing happens.
#3
i installed the starter which i have done hundreds of times and the battery is fully charged, starter was tested before i bought it. Its something with the car not the starter.
#4
Never assume since it was good when u bought it that it's still good now...it is possible for it to go bad quickly....take it off and have it checked again...you will find that many big box auto parts companies sell reman units that fail prematurely... It happens...
#6
I have seen parts bench test good...but not work on the car..but if u say its good ok...retrace your off and on procedure...maybe you missed something
#7
there have been instances where the starter brand new doesnt work out of the box. would bench test just fine but as soon as a load was applied, it would not spin. Dang reman or AZ starters, cant remember which, but jsut do a SEARCH on it.
could be immobilizer in a 99.
Could be the starting circuit too. From P/N switch to inhibitor relay.
could be immobilizer in a 99.
Could be the starting circuit too. From P/N switch to inhibitor relay.
Last edited by cashoit; 10-23-2015 at 10:43 AM.
#8
Last time I changed my starter I went through 2 aftermarket ones that bench tested fine, but wouldn't start the car. I think it may of had to do with them having fewer teeth on the starter than the OEM. I ended going with an reman Nissan starter which worked.
#9
Get the voltmeter and check the battery voltage while you are trying to crank the engine over. With a good battery, the voltage will drop down into the 11 volt range. If it stays up at 12 volts, the starter solenoid is not making a connection.
Then connect the voltmeter onto the starter solenoid that goes into the starter motor, Test Point B in the photo below.Crank the engine again. The voltage should be the same as the previous step. If it is, the starter motor has a problem. If the voltage reading is less, then the solenoid has a problem.
Then connect the voltmeter onto the starter solenoid that goes into the starter motor, Test Point B in the photo below.Crank the engine again. The voltage should be the same as the previous step. If it is, the starter motor has a problem. If the voltage reading is less, then the solenoid has a problem.
#10
make sure you also put the washers on the right sides, but I do think that the problem may be with how many teeths are on the starter, chances are that the starter can not spin because the teeths don't line up with the flywheel, thus it gets locked up, and won't move
#11
Ok guys again it is not the starter. I replaced the starter becuase i thought it was my last starter that was bad it turns out it was good. the gear was not retracting they way it should so i went ahead and replaced it. The starter is not the issue. I'm trying to figure out what on the car is causing it not to starter. the only click i hear now is from under the dash from the ignition switch, so it is getting signal to turn over but nothing happens. also a few lights on the dash cut off as if it is trying to turnover but silence.
#12
The click from under the dash is probably the ignition relay. You don't normally hear it because the sound of the starter drowns it out. But this relay is not part of making the engine crank over.
To make the starter work, the sequence of events is:
ignition switch --> inhibitor relay --> starter solenoid.
If you look at the photo that I posted (post # 9), connect a meter or a test light to Test Point A. When you turn the key to the START position, you should have 12 volts at Test Point A.
If you have 12 volts, the starter is the problem.
If no voltage, then the ignition switch or the relay or maybe wiring is the problem.
Pull out the relay. It is in the group by the battery, 2nd from the left along the battery.
The cover calls it INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTERLOCK. In the 99s, the name changed to PARK NEUTRAL/CLUTCH INTERLOCK, but it is in the same spot.
Auto trans and manual trans use a different relay from the other. Auto trans uses a 6 pin relay and manual uses a 4 pin relay, so checking things is different.
For Auto trans -
Put the volt meter or test light in pin # 6 of the relay socket and turn the ignition key to the START position. If you get 12 volts here, the ignition switch is OK. If not, either the relay is bad or the circuit that makes it work has a problem.
For Manual trans -
Put the volt meter or test light in pin # 3 of the relay socket and turn the ignition key to the START position. If you get 12 volts here, the ignition switch is OK. If not, either the relay is bad or the circuit that makes it work has a problem.
To make the starter work, the sequence of events is:
ignition switch --> inhibitor relay --> starter solenoid.
If you look at the photo that I posted (post # 9), connect a meter or a test light to Test Point A. When you turn the key to the START position, you should have 12 volts at Test Point A.
If you have 12 volts, the starter is the problem.
If no voltage, then the ignition switch or the relay or maybe wiring is the problem.
Pull out the relay. It is in the group by the battery, 2nd from the left along the battery.
The cover calls it INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTERLOCK. In the 99s, the name changed to PARK NEUTRAL/CLUTCH INTERLOCK, but it is in the same spot.
Auto trans and manual trans use a different relay from the other. Auto trans uses a 6 pin relay and manual uses a 4 pin relay, so checking things is different.
For Auto trans -
Code:
lock tab │ │ ┌───┐ ▼ ┌───┐ │ 1 │ │ 2 │ ├───┼───┼───┤ │ 3 │ 7 │ 6 │ └───┼───┼───┘ │ 4 │ └───┘
For Manual trans -
Code:
lock tab ┌───┐ │ 3 │ ┌───┼───┼───┐ │ 2 │ │ 1 │ └───┼───┼───┘ │ 5 │ └───┘
#14
The click from under the dash is probably the ignition relay. You don't normally hear it because the sound of the starter drowns it out. But this relay is not part of making the engine crank over.
To make the starter work, the sequence of events is:
ignition switch --> inhibitor relay --> starter solenoid.
If you look at the photo that I posted (post # 9), connect a meter or a test light to Test Point A. When you turn the key to the START position, you should have 12 volts at Test Point A.
If you have 12 volts, the starter is the problem.
If no voltage, then the ignition switch or the relay or maybe wiring is the problem.
Pull out the relay. It is in the group by the battery, 2nd from the left along the battery.
The cover calls it INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTERLOCK. In the 99s, the name changed to PARK NEUTRAL/CLUTCH INTERLOCK, but it is in the same spot.
Auto trans and manual trans use a different relay from the other. Auto trans uses a 6 pin relay and manual uses a 4 pin relay, so checking things is different.
For Auto trans -
Put the volt meter or test light in pin # 6 of the relay socket and turn the ignition key to the START position. If you get 12 volts here, the ignition switch is OK. If not, either the relay is bad or the circuit that makes it work has a problem.
For Manual trans -
Put the volt meter or test light in pin # 3 of the relay socket and turn the ignition key to the START position. If you get 12 volts here, the ignition switch is OK. If not, either the relay is bad or the circuit that makes it work has a problem.
To make the starter work, the sequence of events is:
ignition switch --> inhibitor relay --> starter solenoid.
If you look at the photo that I posted (post # 9), connect a meter or a test light to Test Point A. When you turn the key to the START position, you should have 12 volts at Test Point A.
If you have 12 volts, the starter is the problem.
If no voltage, then the ignition switch or the relay or maybe wiring is the problem.
Pull out the relay. It is in the group by the battery, 2nd from the left along the battery.
The cover calls it INHIBIT/CLUTCH INTERLOCK. In the 99s, the name changed to PARK NEUTRAL/CLUTCH INTERLOCK, but it is in the same spot.
Auto trans and manual trans use a different relay from the other. Auto trans uses a 6 pin relay and manual uses a 4 pin relay, so checking things is different.
For Auto trans -
Code:
lock tab │ │ ┌───┐ ▼ ┌───┐ │ 1 │ │ 2 │ ├───┼───┼───┤ │ 3 │ 7 │ 6 │ └───┼───┼───┘ │ 4 │ └───┘
For Manual trans -
Code:
lock tab ┌───┐ │ 3 │ ┌───┼───┼───┐ │ 2 │ │ 1 │ └───┼───┼───┘ │ 5 │ └───┘
#15
What is your voltage drop on the battery when trying to start the car? Is this a problem that has suddenly developed or has it slowly been getting worse? Have you tried jump starting the car? Are the battery terminals clean and tight? Have you tried running 12 volts (please be careful) straight to the starter signal terminal to rule that out?...just throwing things out there
#16
What is your voltage drop on the battery when trying to start the car? Is this a problem that has suddenly developed or has it slowly been getting worse? Have you tried jump starting the car? Are the battery terminals clean and tight? Have you tried running 12 volts (please be careful) straight to the starter signal terminal to rule that out?...just throwing things out there
One of the problems i thought i had solved was the PO installed one of those stuppid clifford alarms. That POS would prevent me from starting the car from time to time, so i disconnected its main unit it never did that again. So this weekend I started to cut it out of the ignition harness under the dash luckily it is just spliced in and runs an interference instead of a interception if you can understand what i mean so i just have to cut the wires, i do not know the technical terms for it. I'm now getting a strong audible click/cluck from the starter but no cranking. I'll try cutting out more of this system see if it happens to be the problem. For the love of God never install one of these bullsh1t alarms.
Last edited by Crusher103; 10-28-2015 at 09:30 AM.
#17
Or you could just swap it with another relay that fits and save yourself the bs.. essentially turn your ignition on and work your way back from the solenoid back to the IS, also clean your grounds btw ive NEVER had a brand new part not work for me out the box, if a starter bench tested fine and then didn't work when installed then the problem is with your vehicle.. lol it doesnt work then not work after install because its faulty
I've had a new starter not work because of a faulty solenoid that extends the gear but it bench tested bad and again thats not the case here.
#18
I was just going to suggest car alarm, but you beat me to it. The starter kill creates a voltage drop that is too much and the car won't even crank.
All car alarms have tapped wires, and at least one to two intercepted wires. If you haven't ripped out the old alarm completely, do so now and see if that fixes the problem.
All car alarms have tapped wires, and at least one to two intercepted wires. If you haven't ripped out the old alarm completely, do so now and see if that fixes the problem.
#19
Try to jump the starter from battery positive terminal directly with a screw driver, if starter spins then it is not the starter. Next, jump inhibitor replay pin 6 and 7 if you have auto trans with a wire, next, swap anti-thief relay with windshield wiper relay.
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