RealityCheck

Has anyone ran into an issue of removing rear strut bolts on the bottom? Mine were never touched before because there is really no boot left on either side, and bolts are both stripped, rusted, and frozen. No budge. I might get someone to cut off the bolt in half right next to the strut mount hole. Any thoughts?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Cut ... replace.

RealityCheck

Too bad I don't have a big cutting wheel or torch for the job.

ampire

iTrader: (12)

could try a dremel and cut/grind it

sanford7575

I had the same problem when I changed the rear struts on my '97 I30. I had to cut the suspension pins because I stripped the nuts while trying to remove with impact. I used the Harbor Freight multi function tool (http://www.harborfreight.com/oscilla...8861-8493.html) with the metal plunge cutting blade to cut through the pin. As I recall, space was limited, and that was the only tool that would fit. It took forever, and I went through 5 metal blades as the suspension pin is pretty thick! Courtesy Nissan has the replacement pins and nuts for around $20. Hope this helps...

RealityCheck

I used a Dremel to cut into the head for a slot but ended up just cutting half of it off to make a different shape and hope an impact socket would fit, but no luck.

I do have an oscillating tool, Sanford. Thanks for your input on it. I might grab a 3" metal disc to slice through the bolt. ****ty angle it's at too. As far as a replacement bolt goes... I'm going to measure and grab a new bolt at a hardware store.

nissan99

Yea had to the same thing cut and replace

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

What boots on the bottom??? The strut lower bolts are screwed into a nutplate type item spray plenty of PB Blaster and slap the head with a hammer to free up the corroded threads.... Reinstall with anti seize...

Daniel VQ30life

iTrader: (2)

same problem with mine, it's already been said but cut and replace, i was able to get a sawzall on mine, bolt side

RealityCheck

Both boots on the struts are in half, there is no bottom too it lmao. Anyways, yes either I'll be using an oscillating tool or a sawzall because I do have a bunch of cutting tools.

Believe me, I banged the f**ing sh*t out of it.

JvG

Regarding buying nuts and bolts at the hardware store instead of an auto parts store:
make sure that the parts you buy have the same strength rating or better as the ones in your car. The ones in the hardware store may look the same, yet be nowhere as strong. They are cheaper for a reason.

It would not be cool if a critical bolt should break in your suspension.

RealityCheck

Reason as to why I said hardware and not auto parts store is that I didn't think they sold specific bolts for said car. Only replacement parts regarding things that are common to replace.

JvG

bolts are made with different strength, corrosion protection, etc for differing purposes. Do a Google search for: bolt grade markings, bolt hardness, and you will see what I mean.

For example,a common bolt could deform, stretch, or snap under a certain amount of torque, while a grade 8 bolt could hold up. Some bolts are rust resistant, common hardware stuff, not so much.

Get the right bolts for this.

RealityCheck

Where do I get the right bolts for it locally?

JvG

I suggest you read the information about bolt grades. the stronger ones have markings or lines on the heads. install a new one that is at least as strong as the one you had. I suppose you destroyed the heads of the ones you worked on. maybe a picture of the bolt is somewhere on here. as for where to buy them, a good general hardware store with knowledgeable staff could work. or Lowe's, home depot, the junkyard, nissan.

don't buy the cheapest bolt that fits. it won't last.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

At least 10.9 grade bolts...

RealityCheck

Grade 8 is US and 10.9 is Metric?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Yes