Odd problem after alternator replacement
01-19-2015, 07:33 PM
#1
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Odd problem after alternator replacement
I am very sorry if this has been discussed, but I searched and found nothing. After replacing the alternator on my '97 Saturday, something odd started to happen yesterday and tonight on my way home from work. When I am driving during the day, the radio turns off when the tach goes past 1,500 RPM and it does not power back on until the RPMs go back down to 600 after I press the clutch. When driving at night, both headlights turn off when the tach goes past 1,500 RPM and they do not come back on until I press the clutch and the RPMs go to 600, just like the radio. If I slowly accelerate up to 1,500 RPMs, the right headlight goes out at 1,000 and the left also goes out when the tach reaches 1,500.
The only things that have been done recently are an alternator replacement, instrument cluster bulb replacement, and getting rid of the CEL for the VSS by tightening the screws on the back of the cluster. This morning, I added a few more grounds from the negative of the battery to the chassis, but it did not help. I checked all harnesses at the alternator and near the alternator. I checked everything near the headlight bulb/HID ballast. All connections were fine. I checked all fuses and none were blown. I have not checked relays yet, but those will be next. Any ideas?
The only things that have been done recently are an alternator replacement, instrument cluster bulb replacement, and getting rid of the CEL for the VSS by tightening the screws on the back of the cluster. This morning, I added a few more grounds from the negative of the battery to the chassis, but it did not help. I checked all harnesses at the alternator and near the alternator. I checked everything near the headlight bulb/HID ballast. All connections were fine. I checked all fuses and none were blown. I have not checked relays yet, but those will be next. Any ideas?
01-19-2015, 08:10 PM
#2
Sounds like your "new" alternator has some bad parts, like a defective voltage regulator. You can test by connecting a voltmeter to the battery terminals.
With the engine running you should read about 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up to 2k rpm and watch the voltage. With a good regulator the voltage should hold steady.
When it comes to replacing alternators, the safest bet is OEM, then rebuilt oem. Members on here also seem to hold Napa rebuilt alternators in high regard, too.
With the engine running you should read about 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up to 2k rpm and watch the voltage. With a good regulator the voltage should hold steady.
When it comes to replacing alternators, the safest bet is OEM, then rebuilt oem. Members on here also seem to hold Napa rebuilt alternators in high regard, too.
01-19-2015, 08:27 PM
#3
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Sounds like your "new" alternator has some bad parts, like a defective voltage regulator. You can test by connecting a voltmeter to the battery terminals.
With the engine running you should read about 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up to 2k rpm and watch the voltage. With a good regulator the voltage should hold steady.
When it comes to replacing alternators, the safest bet is OEM, then rebuilt oem. Members on here also seem to hold Napa rebuilt alternators in high regard, too.
With the engine running you should read about 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up to 2k rpm and watch the voltage. With a good regulator the voltage should hold steady.
When it comes to replacing alternators, the safest bet is OEM, then rebuilt oem. Members on here also seem to hold Napa rebuilt alternators in high regard, too.
The replacement alternator was bought at Advance Auto. The brand is ToughOne (110 amp). Sadly, I never thought to go to NAPA
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