peb396

Was driving my 95 SE a few minutes ago and the engine started revving like crazy. I took my foot off of the accelerator and it was accelerating going uphill. Doesn't seem to be a pedal or linkage problem...what could be causing this???

Chad_m

Have you cleaned your throttle body lately? If you do it wrong the cable can get hung up. Start simple, check your cable.

peb396

I have Sea Foam in the tank right now and had sprayed some through the brake vacuum hose inlet earlier today. I had the TB off over the weekend replacing the knock sensor, UIM...LIM...and valve cover gaskets. Replaced the spark plugs with NGK Iridium and cleaned out the egr tube...

...will check linkage first though...THANKS!

peb396

Not cable...I am pulling a 1005 code which is (according to Haynes) an EGR solenoid valve...would that do it?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Verify the installation of the clamp on the TB vacuum hose. The clamp should have the adjusting screw towards the firewall. If it is facing the front towards the radiator, the throttle body cable is getting hooked into that clamp.

peb396

Don't see any clamp in the way...thanks...next?

Chad_m

If you don't see a clamp on your vacuum hoses, you should put a clamp on it. But that's probably not your problem. I don't know for sure, but I don't think that EGR code would cause this prpblem. Look in the EC section of the FSM and troubleshoot that code.

peb396

You guys are geniuses!

Had more time today to check it out and low and behold found the part hitting the screw. Thanks a million!

Now, I have another problem that I hope is obvious...got oil in the #6 spark plug tube...just changed out the VC gaskets and don't really remember oil being in any of them so I am hoping that this is a screw up on my part. Got a code for a #6 misfire...got a coil from a '98 that is original...pulled the old coil and found oil. Will be pulling the VC off, again, tomorrow along with replacing the EGR control valve and putting the TB (screw near firewall this time) and MAF back on (don't know why I didn't clean them last weekend).

Any suggestions on stopping that leak or what else to look out for is greatly appreciated. I am not a mechanic, but I do love this car...I have had it for almost 20 years and want to keep driving it.

Thanks in advance!

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Change the spark plug tube seals if you didn't do it when replacing the VC gaskets. Nissan calls them "oil rocker seals"

http://www.courtesyparts.com/seal-oilr-p-250414.html

peb396

I changed them out...got the Fel-Pro kit...guess that I screwed up putting that one in. Glad to see that they are available as singles...I am guessing that it is ok to use these new guskets over everywhere else...

peb396

OK...got the oil leak stopped in cylinder 6 and replaced the coil...still getting code for misfire...swapped coil with cyl 4 and got code...just replaced plugs with NGKs...iridiums, but not the 'laser' ones...what could be causing this?

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

The code remained in cyl 6 after swapping the coil? In that case, I would probably check the cyl 6 injector next. You can test it with a multimeter.

peb396

It failed the multimeter test...the injector that is...went to LKQ and pulled one from a '98 J30...Liked to have never gotten my old one out...(there were two on Maximas at LKQ that I couldn't remove)...searched and found the allen wrench method (that worked well...even on my old, now damaged fuel injector)...so, thanks for the help.

Last night finally found a thread on here about fixing the brake light in my spoiler (that thing had been out for over 10 years)...that was a quick and inexpensive fix...that trick should be in the "how to's"...

Just put about 50 miles on her and no check engine light...thanks guys!!!

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

No problem, glad to have helped. Congrats on the successful repair

peb396

Now a few more concerns...

*while resetting the idle (which was hovering between 1300 and 1600...now is at about 750...will bring it down a little more later because...) the temp gauge shot up like crazy almost nearing the little line at the top. I had the two TPS sensors unplugged while doing this, but the fans on the rad never cut on...this has never been a problem

*the lights in the doors blink while idling (didn't notice the overhead dome light doing this just the ones in the doors

*I can click on the cruise control on the dash, but cannot get it running from the steering wheel tabs

As always, thanks for your help in advance!

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

For the fans, check the relays, in particular the "rad fan 1" relay. I had this problem when I had my '95, the fans would never cut on at all, even when the AC was switched on. Turns out that relay had burned / melted.

As for the other trouble points, I'm not so sure. When you say they blink, do they actually go off and on, or just dim/flicker? Perhaps there could be a loose connection somewhere? Any lights on on the dash - ie the brake and battery lights?

Bump to see if anyone more knowledgeable on those problems may be able to provide some input to help out.

peb396

The rad thing was a fluke. It acted up that one time and hasn't since. I did make sure that the fuses/relays were connected properly, but I think it was b/c I had been resetting the idle.

The lights blink. That would be the best word for it. I have lights every where else and don't notice it any where else. The lights will do it with and without the engine running.

Again, thanks for your help!