Spoon_

iTrader: (1)

Hello, I'm having issues with our notorious clutch pedals on my 99 maxima. A couple months ago I replaced my clutch with a spec stage 3 clutch and pressure plate. The flywheel I had purchased from a member here on the forum(oem flywheel) After completing the clutch I started the car up and immediately the car began misfiring. Turned out the tone plate was bent. So I had to do a second clutch job. 2nd time around it went smoothly. I rechecked everything like the fork and throw out bearing. Everything was cool Except for the part where going into gear (especially first was extremely difficult) it became more difficult with my ralco rz short shifter. The clutch pedal would have pressure about half way and stick. I replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and replaced the lines with the ss lines.(oe slave and master) I bled with someone pressing the pedal. I bled with a vacuum pump on the slave. I bled it with a pressure bleeder at the shop I worked at. And now it feels a little better but is still crap. Adjusted the rod on the master and still nothing. So I watched my pedal engage and disengage. I noticed the yellow rubber stopper is not lining up with the sensor that tells when the clutch is pushed in. It seems to come down lower and barely makes contact with the sensor. The spring is in tact but hits the chassis as it twists. The rod on the master comes All the way out of the master when not pushed in(not sure if that's normal) and the rod only gets depressed about half way into the master cylinder. Some advice on this problem would be awesome. I love my 4th gen but such a simple task is being such a pia. My next step is to go to the scrap yard and get another clutch assembly. Let me know what you guys think before I kick a dent in the door. I've done plenty of research along with researching other vehicles other than nissans that have the same problem.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

My guess is that the bracket at the top of your peddle has broken/bent along with your peddle itself.
You have to take out the gauge cluster to get at the bolts for that bracket, but crawl under and check out the peddle bracket at the top with a flashlight and report back.

Spoon_

iTrader: (1)

I thought the surrounding bracket around the pedal was tac welded? So you're saying there's bolts from above the bracket that would allow me to change the entire thing? Do you think the bracket would be bent throwing off the pedal? Or you think I could get away with just replacing the pedal?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

You need to inspect both.

Spoon_

iTrader: (1)

I cant really tell if it's bent or broken. Looks normal to me besides the spring hitting the frame of the car. The only thing I can tell you is that when the clutch is pushed in half way it pulls itself to the ground (in a snapping motion) rather than resisting? Is that normal when bleeding? Some other co workers that are Chrysler/jeep technicians told me that's not normal? You think I should just replace the assembly? I have nothing to lose right now. Next step after this is replace the master again then drop the tranny for a 3rd time.

Spoon_

iTrader: (1)

Just contacted the local nissan dealership and they say there's a production split on 99 maxima clutch master cylinders. I bought mine of ebay based off of year(it is oe)? Maybe this is my my problem. Or the guys just referring to the 4.5gen? The masters looked identical when I matched them up.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

The peddle going to the floor while bleeding is normal.

I use a string to make it easy to pull back up until bled.

I don't think there is or should be a difference in any clutch hydraulics from 95-99.

Spoon_

iTrader: (1)

I went to the junkyard yesterday and looked at a mt 5 speed. Noticed that the rubber yellow piece lined up with the clutch sensor, the spring would spin in place without hitting the frame, and the master cylinder fork/rod was entering the master probably an extra inch or two more than mine. I started the removal process but left when it started raining. It's suppose to rain all day today as well. I was thinking maybe I can drill a hole further back on the pedal arm for the fork and pin that goes through it. Allowing it to compress more when pressed in. But I'm thinking it still might give me a soft pedal up top due to the spring hitting the frame and not functioning as designed? What do you think? The car isn't my daily but I'd like a quick fix to confirm the issue. What do you think?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

That OEM flywheel. Used? Wonder if it was shaved/worn out of spec, causing your clutch to move more than normal to fully engage.

Spoon_

iTrader: (1)

It's engaging fine/not slipping. The problem is the masters not building enough pressure to let me easily put it in gear. The flywheel was resurfaced by carquest. I know the guy who does it and he's great at what he does. He measures everything and makes sure it's in spec. The 2nd time i used my original flywheel that came out of my car.