ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

I'm putting in a lower mileage 3.0 in a friends 97 I30 this weekend. I've already dropped the old motor & trans out the bottom today. How can I put the motor and trans back in from the bottom being that I usually pull it out the top with trans out... I'm.doing this with handtools and jackstands

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Did you physically drop it out the bottom?
If not, reverse what you did. You'll have to get creative, a few jacks, a few buddies and lots of beer.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Lol.. of course i have a lift...too bad I.wont have help.but ill.get it done

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

beer AFTER you finish the work

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Bolt the Crossmember to the engine.
Set the engine transmission & crossmember on a table. Lower car down onto the engine and secure.

arcticracer

I have used cherry pickers and hydraulic lift tables but this little hoist from snapon is my favorite.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Then you dropped it wrong because you're not supposed to actually drop the engine. You're supposed to use a floor jack under the upper oil pan and use a piece of wood between the jack and the engine. Slide the motor in place, jack it up, put in the mount(s). It's simple just involves physically moving it around so you can put the mount bolts in.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Ok I finished it this afternoon but when I start it I have ti give it gas to stay running... What can that be

CS_AR

Can you set the TPS and IACV adjustment? Keep it running. If the replacement engine has some carbon buildup it may take a few hours to burn off. Did the injectors and coils come from the original engine or the replacement? Also, did the previous engine have an oil burning or fuel flooding problem that may have caused the cats to still be restricting exhaust flow?

I recently had a low mileage replacement engine installed that inherited idling and misfire problems from the previous engine because I requested the original "leaking fuel injectors" with original rails be moved to the replacement. Two different mechanic shops missed diagnosing the bad injectors that were dumping too much into the engine. Also, the cats were clogged up that caused an assortment of run issues that may have been caused by too much unburned fuel.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Ok... I will check it in the morning... The replacement engine was mine which I know had no issues... I did the swap because his old motor had major oil leaks! I'm thinking about rebuilding & stroking the motor, is it worth it

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Any ideas..

PowerTotheMax

Vacuum leak?

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Lol... I just looked and seen that I didn't connect the Pcv valve hose after swapping intake & vac lines... Silly mistake.... But can this be it. Thanks

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

It's time to invest in air tools & a trans jack etc... I pulled the motor up the top the lowered the car gradually then pulled the motor up until I could line the crossmember up...Then put the trans back up... A day & a half won't bad by myself! Thanks members cuz I'm still willing to learn... Any members in Richmond surrounding areas

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Gdmornin Org... I'm double checking everything and I seen that I left the pcv valve hose off I'm hoping this is why the motor cutoff when I let off the gas & not something else...

CS_AR

Vacuum leaks will sure cause idle issues.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Maybe, since you have the motor already. But, in a way, Nissan has done it already. Consider stroking that motor against buying a used 3.5 motor from a newer (2004 or later) maxima from the junkyard. 2002 and 2003 maxima 3.5s had issues with the pre-cats killing piston rings. If you look in the all motor section of this forum, you see lots of people swapping in 3.5s from newer maximas/altimas etc into the older, and considerably lighter, 4th gen Maxima body.

NWP engineering fully swapped a 3.5 (VIAS VTCs ALL operational on 3.5 computer) into his 3rd gen maxima and now its the fastest all motor maxima in the world;

http://www.nwpengineering.com/videos.html

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Ok that was the problem... It's running great!!!

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

The coolant pipes are dripping antifreeze, I may have forget the put silicone on the rear one after swapping the pipes, its in a hard spot, how can I fix this!!!

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Other than that she purrs like a kitten...Thanks for any & all advice

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

It's the coolant crossover pipes... How the heck can I get to It to put sealant on it, maybe a grease gun with a long nossle?

bewrong

Stop-leak in the coolant?

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Will stop leak work? I'm honestly not too big on those stuff but if something works it'll be great!

bewrong

A year ago, I used Barr's Stop Leak on the 7.3L IDI in my 93 F250 instead of replacing a head gasket. However, I can't guarantee that it won't clog your Maxima's radiator.

sergofast

iTrader: (22)

NO NO NO NO NO!

That stuff will sometimes stop the leak but more than likely just clog your radiator and/or your heater core!

"Repair in a CAN" = temporary fix that will cause a bigger issue later. Its like putting a band-aid on a bullet wound.

This goes the same for the crap they sell during the summer to "fix your AC"....dont ever but anything that includes "leak repair" into your AC system unless you want to replace your Condenser, evaporator, dryer and possibly your compressor. Just use the standard straight R134.

Fix it correctly the first time.

bewrong

Did you know that Subaru specifies that stop-leak be added to every coolant fill for their vehicles? This isn't as black and white as you're trying to make it.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

It's not any old stop leak...it's SPECIFIC to the 2.5L motor and it's to avoid head gasket issues. It's a Subaru additive, not parts store crap.

regular stop leak:
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-you...n-your-subaru/



It's not as black and white as YOU're trying to make it :wink:

back on topic now, shall we?

bewrong

Subaru coolant additive is re-branded Holts Radweld, so it's not specifically formulated by Subaru. It's still stop-leak.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

it also is specific to the 2.5l engines only. Also, it is REQUIRED to keep one's engine warranty on those motors as well. It's not relevant to the conversation here though, so let's just let it go.

bewrong

It's stop-leak and it isn't consistently destroying Subie radiators and heater cores, so yes it is relevant to this discussion.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

OP knows what the issue is...he stated it several posts above..it's the crossover pipes.

The stop leak for the Subaru is not for leaking hoses like the case here. it's for attempting to remedy a design flaw in the head gaskets. So NO it's not relevant to this discussion. Besides, YOU said earlier that you "can't guarantee it won't clog your maxima's radiator"...which is one hell of an endorsement for putting it in a car


Ghost - You need to replace those crossover pipes if you can, or JB weld them from the outside. Don't use a can of anything.

bewrong

A leak is a leak, irrespective of the shape of the hole. I let him know that sometimes it works as advertised, but sometimes it doesn't, and left it to him to calculate his risks.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys but as u know its a real tight area, how can I get in there?

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

I believe in doing it the right way...

bewrong

If you want to 'get in there', you gotta disassemble.

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

The customer said use jb weld... What do u guys think & how can I do this?

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Will try to use jb weld tomorrow but I can I get in that tight area?

ghostI30

iTrader: (8)

Off for the next two days... I must get this leak stopped, so I can start on my car, members how can I jb weld that area

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

maybe if you post some pics of the area I'm not sure what sort of access you have...can a few things be removed out of the way to gain better access?