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Bad idle after fuel injector replacement

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Old 03-29-2014, 12:47 PM
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Bad idle after fuel injector replacement

OK so my problem started with white smoke, fuel smell and misfire. Luckily the check engine light came on and told me it was cylinder #3.

I pulled the intake manifold off and changed the fuel injector. What I found was the pintle cap and o-ring had come off and was causing the misfire. Luckily neither things fell below where the injector seated. I put it all together and started the car up and it idles BETTER but still stumbles. Before this injector mishap it idled perfect.

When I drive it runs fine, no smoke, no missing. If I'm at a light the car will idle good for a few seconds above or at 1000 rpm, then once it settles to 750 or so it starts to stumble really bad.

So I took the MAF off, cleaned it with cleaner. Cleaned the EGR tube that hooks into UIM. And took the IACV off, cleaned that really good. Even took the 3 screw cap off and cleaned all the carbon build-up off of it. Checked to make sure I connected everything and it all is connected properly. Changed spark plugs too, NGK copper. Started car, same deal but now check engine light again. Pulled P0174.


Now I will mention one other thing. While I putting the new injector in, while I was putting the cap to help seat it I noticed I lost the metal piece that is at the end of the rubber piece.. I installed it anyway. Here is the piece I'm talking about
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beck-Arnley-158-0957-Injector-Seal-Kit-/300971160428?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995%7CMake%3ANissan%7CModel%3AMaxima&hash=item461347736c&vxp=mtrIt's the metal one attached to rubber.

Could that be the reason why it's being all crazy?

Anybody had this problem after installing injectors?

Last edited by Nissanserguy; 03-29-2014 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:49 PM
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Yes that is likely the reason.
IMO, don't drive it until you fix it and get new o-rings and pintle caps if they are old whenever removing/replacing injectors.
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Fakie J Farkerton
Yes that is likely the reason.
IMO, don't drive it until you fix it and get new o-rings and pintle caps if they are old whenever removing/replacing injectors.
OK cool, hopefully that will fix it.

Thanks for the reply
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:32 PM
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Sounds like that could just as well be your issue but also check to make sure the injector is seated properly so it's not dumping too much fuel in the cylinder which can eventually get into the exhaust. I'd agree with Fakie and not drive it until you get it resolved.
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ac max 92
Sounds like that could just as well be your issue but also check to make sure the injector is seated properly so it's not dumping too much fuel in the cylinder which can eventually get into the exhaust. I'd agree with Fakie and not drive it until you get it resolved.
Ah good point.. I'm starting to take the manifold off to check it out. Heading to O'Reilys to get an O-ring kit that has that stupid piece in it.

Thanks for your help
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:37 AM
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OK bumping this..

Pulled UIM off, checked injector and it was seated fully. Also got a new metal cap deal "pictured in post 1". Car still idled rough below 1,000 rpm. While I was under I heard a vacuum leak, it was coming from my Evap purge sensor. One nipple broke off, so I replaced that. That seemed to make a world of difference, but still idled high and kind of rough. So I went to the junkyard, it was half price day, got a IACV and MAF for under $20 for both.. Figured couldn't hurt.

Cleaned that MAF with the CRC maf cleaner, then cleaned out the IACV with Carb cleaner. I installed the MAF and that seemed to make a difference slightly to where I was able to drive it. The idle was steady, but high, above 1,000 rpm. Drove perfect, no missing, stuttering, choking, etc.

Drove to my brothers house, about 15 miles away, for his sons birthday party. Was there about 3 hours. Started up the car it was fine. Once I got like 2 blocks down the street it started to idle very high, it was idling at 3,000 rpm and it would not come down from there. I pulled over to check all the hoses, connectors, everything was fine though.

I drove it home, and swapped out for that used IACV I pulled out the junkyard. One thing I noticed is it looks like '98 and lower have 3 sensors on the IACV and my '99 has only 2. BUT, the valve is the same, mounts the same. And at close inspection the one on my '99 is capped off where the sensor would be. So I figured I would swap the cap for the sensor on the other IACV. Did that, mounted it, hooked up the connectors.

Started the car up, idles smooth. But it still idles weird. Now it is revving up and down constantly it seems. From like 1,100 to 1,500 sometimes higher. I took some carb cleaner and sprayed vacuum hoses and where the throttle body and Iacv mount and the UIM, and I could not tell any difference in idle.

So today I am going to test the TPS, and MAF HOPING one is bad.. I'm also going to ohm test the ignition coils..

Also, they are not '99 coils, they are from a '97.

SO, lol, what else could be causing this crap? Could a bad coil cause this? could a bad tps? bad maf?? I don't know what else to check here.

Next thing I'm guessing is maybe I got a bad fuel injector?
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:57 PM
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OK tested MAF. Tested perfect. Pulled every coil off, pulled apart and wire brushed spring inside and used a pick to scrape off old carbon crap inside on all of them. Then did resistance test on them, all were around 1600 except one that was around 1300. replace that with one around 1600 I had in my extra part box.

I then started to test the TPS, found link in our How-To's. My TPS failed the first test, it measured .5 volts when key was in ON position. Warmed up car, same deal.

I have since ordered a new TPS. Hopefully that will solve my idle issue..

EDIT: OK so I followed a different way to test it via FSM. I kept the connector in and turned the key to ON, I probed the wire indicated and it read 5.1 volts. So voltage is good. Tested ground, ground was good. I then drove the car around to warm it up, came home and shut the car off. Put key in OFF position, as indicated in FSM, and probed the signal wire. Ohm's measured in at 670, and as I moved throttle plate it rose steady, maxed out at 1400 ohm. I then adjusted the tps to get it at 500 ohm. Moved plate and it rose steady again, maxed out at 1430 ohm. Reading FSM and link in how-to's states it should read 4000 ohm.. So I'm pretty sure she is bad.

Crazy thing it did was right before it was WOT the ohms went about 1560, then once I was at wot it was 1430.

But have to wait a few days for the part to arrive, luckily I have my TSI to drive around while my wife drives my new Trailblazer SS.. lol

Last edited by Nissanserguy; 04-06-2014 at 07:56 PM. Reason: editing words
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