99 Maxima - Weird no start issue
03-21-2014, 07:19 AM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
99 Maxima - Weird no start issue
Hi all,
Just recently ran into an issue with my 99 Maxima. I have been searching before joining/creating thread, but no luck.
My sister was driving and apparantly it stalled on her and would not restart. Had it towed back to the house to check it out. When you go to start it, it does not crank but makes a strange whirring noise. Also occasionally getting some sort of burnt smell coming from the engine bay.
It sounds awfully similar and shares symptoms to this thread I found - http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...html?styleid=2
I did the check one of the members said - during crank, the belts spin and took the oil cap off to see the camshafts spin also. So think this rules out the starter and snapped timing chain (?). In that thread, I believe the issue turned out to be a fuel pump, but I checked yesterday using a multimeter and it looks ok (though not sure if I checked it properly). I checked the ohms on one of the connections on the fuel pump and it steadied out at 1.7 which is in the range of what I found in the FSM.
Background on the car -
Has 2 codes - p0340 and p0325. I had changed the camshaft sensor when that code came up, but did not clear it. From what I've been reading, the knock sensor shouldnt cause the car not to start but the camshaft sensor being faulty would.
Pretty loud rattle from timing chain area which I'm thinking is probably the guides/tensioners. Think this rattle started shortly after I changed out the crank pulley.
I believe the starter was changed at some point by the previous owner, as well as the alternator or power steering pump (cant recall which at the moment).
At this point, not sure which direction to head in. Any idea? TIA!
Just recently ran into an issue with my 99 Maxima. I have been searching before joining/creating thread, but no luck.
My sister was driving and apparantly it stalled on her and would not restart. Had it towed back to the house to check it out. When you go to start it, it does not crank but makes a strange whirring noise. Also occasionally getting some sort of burnt smell coming from the engine bay.
It sounds awfully similar and shares symptoms to this thread I found - http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...html?styleid=2
I did the check one of the members said - during crank, the belts spin and took the oil cap off to see the camshafts spin also. So think this rules out the starter and snapped timing chain (?). In that thread, I believe the issue turned out to be a fuel pump, but I checked yesterday using a multimeter and it looks ok (though not sure if I checked it properly). I checked the ohms on one of the connections on the fuel pump and it steadied out at 1.7 which is in the range of what I found in the FSM.
Background on the car -
Has 2 codes - p0340 and p0325. I had changed the camshaft sensor when that code came up, but did not clear it. From what I've been reading, the knock sensor shouldnt cause the car not to start but the camshaft sensor being faulty would.
Pretty loud rattle from timing chain area which I'm thinking is probably the guides/tensioners. Think this rattle started shortly after I changed out the crank pulley.
I believe the starter was changed at some point by the previous owner, as well as the alternator or power steering pump (cant recall which at the moment).
At this point, not sure which direction to head in. Any idea? TIA!
03-21-2014, 09:08 AM
#4
You made 2 completely opposite statements.
1) When you go to start it, it does not crank
2) I did the check one of the members said - during crank, the belts spin and took the oil cap off to see the camshafts spin also. So think this rules out the starter
In #2, you did not actually say that the camshaft or alternator belt moved, you imply that they did move when you say that the starter is ruled out. Could you clarify please.
If the timing chain were to snap while the engine was running, you would end up with bent/broken valves and maybe broken pistons. And maybe worse. However is is very unusual for a timing chain to break.
If the starter went bad, that would not have made the car stall out. But maybe the starter is bad. The burning smell could be the starter.
Assuming that the engine is cranking over, you need to figure out if you have a spark and if you have fuel for the cylinders. Remove one of the ignition coils, Keep it plugged into the wire harness and crank the engine to see if it sparks.
Then remove a spark plug or 2 and see if the tip is wet. The spark plug will be wet for the cylinder that you removed the coil from, but should be dry on other cylinders IF the spark plugs were firing.
1) When you go to start it, it does not crank
2) I did the check one of the members said - during crank, the belts spin and took the oil cap off to see the camshafts spin also. So think this rules out the starter
In #2, you did not actually say that the camshaft or alternator belt moved, you imply that they did move when you say that the starter is ruled out. Could you clarify please.
If the timing chain were to snap while the engine was running, you would end up with bent/broken valves and maybe broken pistons. And maybe worse. However is is very unusual for a timing chain to break.
If the starter went bad, that would not have made the car stall out. But maybe the starter is bad. The burning smell could be the starter.
Assuming that the engine is cranking over, you need to figure out if you have a spark and if you have fuel for the cylinders. Remove one of the ignition coils, Keep it plugged into the wire harness and crank the engine to see if it sparks.
Then remove a spark plug or 2 and see if the tip is wet. The spark plug will be wet for the cylinder that you removed the coil from, but should be dry on other cylinders IF the spark plugs were firing.
03-21-2014, 09:26 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
You made 2 completely opposite statements.
1) When you go to start it, it does not crank
2) I did the check one of the members said - during crank, the belts spin and took the oil cap off to see the camshafts spin also. So think this rules out the starter
In #2, you did not actually say that the camshaft or alternator belt moved, you imply that they did move when you say that the starter is ruled out. Could you clarify please.
If the timing chain were to snap while the engine was running, you would end up with bent/broken valves and maybe broken pistons. And maybe worse. However is is very unusual for a timing chain to break.
If the starter went bad, that would not have made the car stall out. But maybe the starter is bad. The burning smell could be the starter.
Assuming that the engine is cranking over, you need to figure out if you have a spark and if you have fuel for the cylinders. Remove one of the ignition coils, Keep it plugged into the wire harness and crank the engine to see if it sparks.
Then remove a spark plug or 2 and see if the tip is wet. The spark plug will be wet for the cylinder that you removed the coil from, but should be dry on other cylinders IF the spark plugs were firing.
1) When you go to start it, it does not crank
2) I did the check one of the members said - during crank, the belts spin and took the oil cap off to see the camshafts spin also. So think this rules out the starter
In #2, you did not actually say that the camshaft or alternator belt moved, you imply that they did move when you say that the starter is ruled out. Could you clarify please.
If the timing chain were to snap while the engine was running, you would end up with bent/broken valves and maybe broken pistons. And maybe worse. However is is very unusual for a timing chain to break.
If the starter went bad, that would not have made the car stall out. But maybe the starter is bad. The burning smell could be the starter.
Assuming that the engine is cranking over, you need to figure out if you have a spark and if you have fuel for the cylinders. Remove one of the ignition coils, Keep it plugged into the wire harness and crank the engine to see if it sparks.
Then remove a spark plug or 2 and see if the tip is wet. The spark plug will be wet for the cylinder that you removed the coil from, but should be dry on other cylinders IF the spark plugs were firing.
I should also add, before this no start condition, it would start after giving it gas and would run rough. This had started recently and quickly changed to this no start.
03-21-2014, 10:03 AM
#6
Thanks for the clarification.
If you see the camshaft moving, then the timing chain is not broken. The alternator belt is moved by the crankshaft pulley, so it would move even if the belt was broken. The starter drives the flywheel that is bolted to the crankshaft and the timing chain and alternator belt are then moved by the crankshaft.
Even though the starter is cranking the engine, the question becomes: is the engine cranking over fast enough to start? If it isn't, then the crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) will not generate a signal to the ECU.
This happened to me on my 97. I first noticed that it didn't sound right when I started the car. It slowly got louder then I realized that it seemed that the engine was cranking slower as if the battery wasn't fully charged. It turned out to be the starter, there is a gear reduction setup inside it where the lubrication had dried up and everything was binding. I had the starter tested by autozone and they said it was just fine, even though it made so much noise you couldn't hear yourself think.
If you do need to get another starter, check the gear on it that it has 11 teeth. Nissan originally had only 8 teeth and it was discovered the the crankshaft sensor signal was just barely triggering the ECU. The used 10 teeth for a while but settled on 11 teeth.
I kind of think the starter is on its way out, but I also wonder if the MAF is your real problem. They don't always throw a code, but shut the car down. The problem with the MAF is that no one seems to know how to test it other than try another one.
If you see the camshaft moving, then the timing chain is not broken. The alternator belt is moved by the crankshaft pulley, so it would move even if the belt was broken. The starter drives the flywheel that is bolted to the crankshaft and the timing chain and alternator belt are then moved by the crankshaft.
Even though the starter is cranking the engine, the question becomes: is the engine cranking over fast enough to start? If it isn't, then the crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) will not generate a signal to the ECU.
This happened to me on my 97. I first noticed that it didn't sound right when I started the car. It slowly got louder then I realized that it seemed that the engine was cranking slower as if the battery wasn't fully charged. It turned out to be the starter, there is a gear reduction setup inside it where the lubrication had dried up and everything was binding. I had the starter tested by autozone and they said it was just fine, even though it made so much noise you couldn't hear yourself think.
If you do need to get another starter, check the gear on it that it has 11 teeth. Nissan originally had only 8 teeth and it was discovered the the crankshaft sensor signal was just barely triggering the ECU. The used 10 teeth for a while but settled on 11 teeth.
I kind of think the starter is on its way out, but I also wonder if the MAF is your real problem. They don't always throw a code, but shut the car down. The problem with the MAF is that no one seems to know how to test it other than try another one.
03-21-2014, 10:04 AM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Queens,NYC
Posts: 8
99 maxima's were the first year with the NATS that had the chip in the key.
I had a problem Where my key just didn't/wouldn't work anymore until it was reprogrammed.
Is the Security light on solid red? Not Blinking but stays on? if it is then your car wont start without having the keys & Car Reprogrammed.
I had a problem Where my key just didn't/wouldn't work anymore until it was reprogrammed.
Is the Security light on solid red? Not Blinking but stays on? if it is then your car wont start without having the keys & Car Reprogrammed.
03-21-2014, 10:45 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
Thanks for the clarification.
If you see the camshaft moving, then the timing chain is not broken. The alternator belt is moved by the crankshaft pulley, so it would move even if the belt was broken. The starter drives the flywheel that is bolted to the crankshaft and the timing chain and alternator belt are then moved by the crankshaft.
Even though the starter is cranking the engine, the question becomes: is the engine cranking over fast enough to start? If it isn't, then the crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) will not generate a signal to the ECU.
This happened to me on my 97. I first noticed that it didn't sound right when I started the car. It slowly got louder then I realized that it seemed that the engine was cranking slower as if the battery wasn't fully charged. It turned out to be the starter, there is a gear reduction setup inside it where the lubrication had dried up and everything was binding. I had the starter tested by autozone and they said it was just fine, even though it made so much noise you couldn't hear yourself think.
If you do need to get another starter, check the gear on it that it has 11 teeth. Nissan originally had only 8 teeth and it was discovered the the crankshaft sensor signal was just barely triggering the ECU. The used 10 teeth for a while but settled on 11 teeth.
I kind of think the starter is on its way out, but I also wonder if the MAF is your real problem. They don't always throw a code, but shut the car down. The problem with the MAF is that no one seems to know how to test it other
than try another one.
If you see the camshaft moving, then the timing chain is not broken. The alternator belt is moved by the crankshaft pulley, so it would move even if the belt was broken. The starter drives the flywheel that is bolted to the crankshaft and the timing chain and alternator belt are then moved by the crankshaft.
Even though the starter is cranking the engine, the question becomes: is the engine cranking over fast enough to start? If it isn't, then the crankshaft sensor CKPS(POS) will not generate a signal to the ECU.
This happened to me on my 97. I first noticed that it didn't sound right when I started the car. It slowly got louder then I realized that it seemed that the engine was cranking slower as if the battery wasn't fully charged. It turned out to be the starter, there is a gear reduction setup inside it where the lubrication had dried up and everything was binding. I had the starter tested by autozone and they said it was just fine, even though it made so much noise you couldn't hear yourself think.
If you do need to get another starter, check the gear on it that it has 11 teeth. Nissan originally had only 8 teeth and it was discovered the the crankshaft sensor signal was just barely triggering the ECU. The used 10 teeth for a while but settled on 11 teeth.
I kind of think the starter is on its way out, but I also wonder if the MAF is your real problem. They don't always throw a code, but shut the car down. The problem with the MAF is that no one seems to know how to test it other
than try another one.
99 maxima's were the first year with the NATS that had the chip in the key.
I had a problem Where my key just didn't/wouldn't work anymore until it was reprogrammed.
Is the Security light on solid red? Not Blinking but stays on? if it is then your car wont start without having the keys & Car Reprogrammed.
I had a problem Where my key just didn't/wouldn't work anymore until it was reprogrammed.
Is the Security light on solid red? Not Blinking but stays on? if it is then your car wont start without having the keys & Car Reprogrammed.
Also - did I test the fuel pump correctly? I checked the ohms on the connection of the fuel pump. When you turn the key I do hear a faint noise coming but cant recall if its changed.
Last edited by Muzo; 03-21-2014 at 10:53 AM.
03-21-2014, 12:31 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
Never underestimate the power of coincidence--she can be a real b**ch. You may well have two separate problems.
03-21-2014, 01:56 PM
#10
If you believe the Nissan FSM, the fuel pump should ohm out at between 0.2 an 5.0 ohms. If you unplugged the 2 wire wire harness on the top of the fuel tank and metered between the 2 pins in the fuel tank sending unit, then you are OK. Combine that with the fact that you can hear it when you turn the key on. How loud it is varies from car to car.
Also - the way the fuel pump works is that it starts running when you turn the key on. If the ECU does not detect pulses from the crankshaft sensor within about 2 seconds, the ECU turns the fuel pump off.
Definitely check the red security led before you take anything apart. Quick and simple check.
Also - the way the fuel pump works is that it starts running when you turn the key on. If the ECU does not detect pulses from the crankshaft sensor within about 2 seconds, the ECU turns the fuel pump off.
Definitely check the red security led before you take anything apart. Quick and simple check.
03-22-2014, 09:23 AM
#13
Clean the negative battery wire on the side where it grounds to the engine block. Follow the wire from the engine to a small ground on the frame of the car then it goes to the engine block. Easy to get to, remove it, clean it so it's shiny on both the wire and the bracket, bolt, nut, engine block and put it back on. This was my issues. I Replaced my starter and battery before doing this. As well as removing my ignition switch and jumping the relay. One thing I didn't do was clean the starter body and trans starter hole for better contact, oops. Good luck with the noise.
03-22-2014, 01:23 PM
#14
03-23-2014, 10:32 AM
#16
Did you ever check to see if you are getting a spark at the plugs?
I'm beginning to wonder if maybe the crankshaft sensor for the flywheel, CKPS(POS), is bad. It would certainly cause the engine to die if it happened while running and then prevent the engine from starting.
The FSM in section EC has a test for the CKPS(POS). The section starts on page 304 but the test is on page 310. I would suggest reading the whole section as there are ground connections to check.
Also, right after page 310 is a section on the camshaft sensor. Read it and check the camshaft sensor while you are at it.
I'm beginning to wonder if maybe the crankshaft sensor for the flywheel, CKPS(POS), is bad. It would certainly cause the engine to die if it happened while running and then prevent the engine from starting.
The FSM in section EC has a test for the CKPS(POS). The section starts on page 304 but the test is on page 310. I would suggest reading the whole section as there are ground connections to check.
Also, right after page 310 is a section on the camshaft sensor. Read it and check the camshaft sensor while you are at it.
03-24-2014, 10:48 AM
#19
I asked that question in post # 4 and the op answered it in post # 5. The car is cranking over, but it is not starting. His knowledge of cars and the associated terminology is not that good, so we have to have a little bit of patience to work with him.
03-29-2014, 05:52 AM
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
Guys - sorry again for the confusion of my wording. The sound it is making sounds like the clip in the link I referenced in the op. I tried starter fluid and no go nor the few secs of running then dying as an fyi.
I just tried testing the harness for the crankshaft sensor and can't get a reading to show for anything. Not fully sure I'm doing it right I tried the harness next to it and did get it show some numbers tho not sure if they're right of course.
So, would this bad/no crankshaft reading cause the initial rough start/running, eventual stall while driving, and the final no start condition its in now??
Thanks for the help guys
I just tried testing the harness for the crankshaft sensor and can't get a reading to show for anything. Not fully sure I'm doing it right I tried the harness next to it and did get it show some numbers tho not sure if they're right of course.
So, would this bad/no crankshaft reading cause the initial rough start/running, eventual stall while driving, and the final no start condition its in now??
Thanks for the help guys
04-05-2014, 09:45 AM
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
So I cleaned both crankshaft sensors and still no go. Only hearing the starter spin when trying to start it.
Anybody got any ideas? Tia
Also, forgot to mention that I took off a coil pack and did not see any spark or anything happen with it. I assume I needed to see a spark in the coil boot?
Anybody got any ideas? Tia
Also, forgot to mention that I took off a coil pack and did not see any spark or anything happen with it. I assume I needed to see a spark in the coil boot?
Last edited by Muzo; 04-05-2014 at 12:29 PM.
04-05-2014, 03:55 PM
#22
We still need to get our language and the words we use synchronized.
The starter spins - this is strictly talking about the starter. It does not mean that the starter will start the car. There are other parts in the starter that could break. It only means that the motor part of the starter works.
The engine cranks - The starter is capable of making the engine turn over.
You say that the engine starts for a few seconds and then stops. OK.
Then you say that you took a coil pack off and did not see any spark.
Those are sort of contradicting statements. If the engine started and ran for 2 seconds, you had spark. So I have to think that the way you tested the coil was incorrect.
You need to have something in the end of the coil where the spark plug goes. A spark plug works real good for that, but a screwdriver will be OK. If you use a spark plug you have to have the metal body of the spark plug touching the metal part of the car engine or body. If you use a screwdriver, then you have to have the metal shaft of the screwdriver about 1/4 inch away from the engine or car body, you cannot let it touch.
The crankshaft sensor for the flywheel is very important. The ECU determines when to fire a spark plug based on the signal from the crankshaft sensor. Cleaning the crankshaft sensor works/helps maybe 1/4 the time or less. There are other tests in the service manual that will be of more value. But the crankshaft sensors either work or don't work. Rarely do they become intermittent.
You have a car that starts but will not stay running. Unfortunately, I don't know what to suggest. I am stumped. You might have a MAF problem, but I don't really know. Sorry.
The starter spins - this is strictly talking about the starter. It does not mean that the starter will start the car. There are other parts in the starter that could break. It only means that the motor part of the starter works.
The engine cranks - The starter is capable of making the engine turn over.
You say that the engine starts for a few seconds and then stops. OK.
Then you say that you took a coil pack off and did not see any spark.
Those are sort of contradicting statements. If the engine started and ran for 2 seconds, you had spark. So I have to think that the way you tested the coil was incorrect.
You need to have something in the end of the coil where the spark plug goes. A spark plug works real good for that, but a screwdriver will be OK. If you use a spark plug you have to have the metal body of the spark plug touching the metal part of the car engine or body. If you use a screwdriver, then you have to have the metal shaft of the screwdriver about 1/4 inch away from the engine or car body, you cannot let it touch.
The crankshaft sensor for the flywheel is very important. The ECU determines when to fire a spark plug based on the signal from the crankshaft sensor. Cleaning the crankshaft sensor works/helps maybe 1/4 the time or less. There are other tests in the service manual that will be of more value. But the crankshaft sensors either work or don't work. Rarely do they become intermittent.
You have a car that starts but will not stay running. Unfortunately, I don't know what to suggest. I am stumped. You might have a MAF problem, but I don't really know. Sorry.
04-06-2014, 09:17 AM
#23
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Posts: 22
My fault for the confusion. I took a video of what it sounds like now so hopefully no more confusion - https://youtu.be/XoEWaYrWVl0
Also just checked the codes again, have a new one for p0335. Not sure if I caused that trying to clean them yesterday tho.
Also just checked the codes again, have a new one for p0335. Not sure if I caused that trying to clean them yesterday tho.
04-06-2014, 01:11 PM
#24
The P0335 is for the crankshaft sensor on the flywheel, CKPS(POS). Maybe that is your problem.
But that starter does not sound right at all. I'm wondering if the pinion gear on the starter that meshes with the flywheel is chewed up or something. That starter needs to be replaced. Once the engine is cranking correctly, maybe the P0335 will go away.
But that starter does not sound right at all. I'm wondering if the pinion gear on the starter that meshes with the flywheel is chewed up or something. That starter needs to be replaced. Once the engine is cranking correctly, maybe the P0335 will go away.
04-13-2014, 06:35 PM
#28
With that noise, I can't believe that the starter is turning the engine over. Since you have changed the starter, I would take the starter out and examine the teeth on the flywheel. That noise sounds like the starter gear and the flywheel gear are not meshing.
04-21-2014, 07:59 AM
#30
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
Quick update for anyone interested -
I had the car towed to the dealer for a diagnostic and they came back with the timing chain being broke. I was under the impression if the belts and the camshaft under oil cap are spinning, timing chain shouldnt be broken? Also, I was having problems prior the no start so unless the chain gradually broke, it doesnt make much sense to me?
BTW - quoted me $35xx for new engine. I assume new = used but asked him to double check anyway. From what i've been seeing on the forums, $2K seems like a more reasonable price for engine swaps.
I had the car towed to the dealer for a diagnostic and they came back with the timing chain being broke. I was under the impression if the belts and the camshaft under oil cap are spinning, timing chain shouldnt be broken? Also, I was having problems prior the no start so unless the chain gradually broke, it doesnt make much sense to me?
BTW - quoted me $35xx for new engine. I assume new = used but asked him to double check anyway. From what i've been seeing on the forums, $2K seems like a more reasonable price for engine swaps.
04-21-2014, 09:43 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
I recently paid $350 + $150 (for the yard to pull the engine and drop it in my pickup) for an engine from a wrecked Maxima with ~75,000 miles. Then another $1,500 for the installation. If you search my recent posts, you can read about my journey and some of the missteps that occurred along the way.
Many years ago, I found some good mechanics in Elizabeth NJ who saved me a lot of money on Toyota repairs compared to the dealer out in Route 22 World..
Many years ago, I found some good mechanics in Elizabeth NJ who saved me a lot of money on Toyota repairs compared to the dealer out in Route 22 World..
Last edited by CS_AR; 04-21-2014 at 10:58 AM.
05-26-2014, 07:22 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 3,041
Unfortunately, unless I wanted to get into a long expensive court battle with in courts with judges who looking for campaign contributions (read payoffs) from big car dealers, the dealer could put a Mechanic's Lean on the car and take possession of it until I settled with them for the original charges.
I've found the multiple brand franchise mega dealers are the worst. Like the ones out on Route 22 near Springfield NJ in what I called Route 22 WORLD.
Last edited by CS_AR; 05-26-2014 at 10:18 PM.
05-26-2014, 09:55 PM
#34
You mentioned you replaced the crank pulley...
Did you fully seat the crank pulley? There is a crank position sensor there that reads off the crank pulley and if it isn't well seated it will give you issues...
Also have you checked all your fuses under the hood?
I assume at this point the dealer has it. I would recommend to get it away from them as quickly as possible and find a smaller reputable shop because dealers will charge $$$$$$ for simple things and they will misdiagnose problems. This has happened to me and I myself have been screwed by them.
Did you fully seat the crank pulley? There is a crank position sensor there that reads off the crank pulley and if it isn't well seated it will give you issues...
Also have you checked all your fuses under the hood?
I assume at this point the dealer has it. I would recommend to get it away from them as quickly as possible and find a smaller reputable shop because dealers will charge $$$$$$ for simple things and they will misdiagnose problems. This has happened to me and I myself have been screwed by them.
05-27-2014, 06:53 AM
#35
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: CNJ
Posts: 22
You mentioned you replaced the crank pulley...
Did you fully seat the crank pulley? There is a crank position sensor there that reads off the crank pulley and if it isn't well seated it will give you issues...
Also have you checked all your fuses under the hood?
I assume at this point the dealer has it. I would recommend to get it away from them as quickly as possible and find a smaller reputable shop because dealers will charge $$$$$$ for simple things and they will misdiagnose problems. This has happened to me and I myself have been screwed by them.
Did you fully seat the crank pulley? There is a crank position sensor there that reads off the crank pulley and if it isn't well seated it will give you issues...
Also have you checked all your fuses under the hood?
I assume at this point the dealer has it. I would recommend to get it away from them as quickly as possible and find a smaller reputable shop because dealers will charge $$$$$$ for simple things and they will misdiagnose problems. This has happened to me and I myself have been screwed by them.
We must've not put in the crank pulley in correctly when we did it months ago as when I went to take it off this weekend, the bolt was loose and the metal pin was off/loose/came off separately. No good at all i'd imagine.
Now I gotta figure out how to reset timing, probably change water pump (and power steering pump also or anything else??), make sure this pulley is on correctly and see what happens.
I've searched before but is there anything online showing how, preferably video? Couldn't really find anything
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