slfalco

I read numerous threads about coolant leaks and such... I am getting a small puddle which seems to be dripping from off the bottom of the A/C compressor. Is the W/P weep hole in that area? Is it possible to see the weep hole without removing anything? I tried in vain to spot any source for the leak, but at 188K miles with the original water pump, it may be finally leaking...

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

It's the pump. I dont think you can see it without removing stuff, but it leaks out between the oil pan and A/C compressor.


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theWalkinator

The weep hole is located between inner and outer O ring seals, you cannot see it without removing the water pump. When you have a coolant leak at water pump, it indicates the O ring seal is bad and you need either replace the O rings or replace the entire water pump. I went through this few months ago and the job is a PITA mainly due to space restriction in the water pump and timing chain tensioner areas.

slfalco

Thanks, I reviewed a nice writeup on this job and will get to it soon. Do you have to drain the radiator for this?

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

I did. I just did all of this 2 days ago. Might as well flush the system out, too.


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slfalco

Thanks, just ordered the pump, I'll drain and fill also... Hopefully she will stay as a small leak till this weekend... I have had this car from new, first water pump replacement...

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

Ordered oem, right? It's not fun to do it a second time. Trust me. I bought a Bosch pump, and installed it. Next thing i know, a month later, coolant is flooding out from the weep hole onto the ground. I put in an Oem one and havent had any trouble from it so far. And that's pretty good. You might as well replace the thermostat while the coolant is out, too.


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slfalco

I ordered from Advance Auto, it seems to be good quality.. I appreciate the advice though.. I am leery about relieving the tension on the chain.. Do I just push in the piston on the tensioner and stick a pin in the hole when it lines up?

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

I hope yours turns out ok. The pump itself can look good, but the seals are what you need to worry about. Turn the engine counter clockwise by wrench, they you push the piston in and use a pin. I used a thumb tack and it worked great.


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slfalco

Thanks, I'll see how the seals look compared to what I pull out, worst case I can pick up a set of seals at the dealer if they look suspect...

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

The smaller seal on the Bosch i got was already flat when i took it out. Im thinking it also would expand and contract, because it wouldn't leak when the car was warm, but would flood out when it was cold.


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Max_Gator

Go find pmohr's video. I think it is on you tube under bordmder

Herald

Ah, so pmohr is boredmder? I'm subscribed to his vids. BTW don't forget the "e" (as in, "boredmder"!)

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Indeed.

Herald

I'll be watching your video on replacing the radiator before doing the same with my '95 Maxima Friday. BTW how has that Spectra Premium treated you (or was that somebody else's car)?

00Lightsout

I just replaced my o-rings this last weekend... I used the superseded OEM o-rings. Needless to say, they didn't hold up either. The brand I used when I did the engine rebuild and bored 20over was Evergreen... Evergreen lasted longer than the OEM replacement.

my curiosity is sparked by the running question of the diameter of the gullies on the pump for the o-rings... are they larger diameters on the OEM pump!

my OEM leak as the motor cools... total PITA because my motor is SPOTLESS and everything is painted!! I'm almost ready to purchase a custom o-ring, ugh! oh, and everything is always torqued to higher end of spec range!

subscribed!!

slfalco

Yikes, this is making me nervous. I am going to monitor my current leak based on how much coolant I have to add to top off the system, and try and put this off for a while until things warm up outside. Sorry to those following this thread to see my experience. Rest assured I will post on the results when I do it. Another question, what is a good sealant to use on the 2 access panels I will have to remove on the TC cover?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Any regular RTV will be fine, I prefer the ultra grey.

00Lightsout

I use RTV black BC it's the highest oil resistance from RTV... Ultra Grey is for high torque applications... and I think the bolts are something like 61-86 in/lbs... too low for Ultra Grey. Not to mention the black releases easier if you need to EVER get into it again