Alu Wolf

i was driving for about 3 hours or so and i noticed my cats are clogged (niticed the tell tale sulfur smell) but only when going up hills. then about an hour later it started sputtering and backfiring then it would stall. after i let it sit for a few minutes it started again and as soon as i gave it any gas even in neutral it would sputter and backfire then run fine (only in neutral) for about a minute then it would start doing the same again and stall out. spent an hour just getting it home. it didnt want to stay running at all now i got it in the driveway and now it wont start at all.

could the clogged cats be the issue?

also i have 3 cel codes but they have all bee on for a few months now (front right heated O2 sensor, knock esnsor, and crank angle sensor (ref)

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

The problem with driving with the CEL on all the time is that you never know when you have an additional issue.


Replace your crank sensor.


Clogged cats will not behave in the manner you described, so quickly.

Alu Wolf

ok what if the cats have been clogged for a while? could that cause the issue? untill recently i have never driven it for that many miles or hours in one day and havnt hit many hills... could that be an issue or kept the clogs from being noticed? also could bad coil packs or plugs cause this issue? its been a while since they have been changed (unknown miles on current ones)

i also looked at the crank sensor briefly before i got picked up for work tonight and saw the wire loom is covered in oil and dirt... oil level is fine and hasnt dropped since last oil change but could that cause it to ground out?

i also noticed another issue unrelated to this. The boot over what i asume to be the clutch rod was not seated and had a brown milky fluid around it (looked almost like coffe with alot of cream in it lol but felt kinda like oil. any idea onwhere the fill plug is for the tranny? it was to dark to find it

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

It's not the cats, you have no catalyst efficiency codes.
Replace the crank sensor and the front o2, clear the codes and check for the KS code in about a week. If it's back, replace the KS.

Your surfer smell may be caused by the bad o2.

c_elliott

iTrader: (2)

Do what is mentioned above. The ks will throw a code when any of these other issues are detected. It doesn't always mean the ks is bad at all.

Alu Wolf

i had no idea a bad o2 could cause the sulfur smell. i hope that replacing the 2 sensors will help. im going to try to get to the scrap yard for a crank sensor in a few hours.

also theres a max that i know is at the yard that has what i believe to be a warpspeed y pipe (last time i was there at least) i think i might try to get that as well if its still there. looked to be in ok shape.

is there anything i should look for as possible issues besides rust on it? like problem areas or anything?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Check the flanges, welds and flex section.
I would buy the sensor(s) new.

Alu Wolf

okies i will when i get there.

also i would prefer new but i cant afford new right now... i can afford the 25 for the used sensor and might be able to swing a little for the exhaust depending on how much they charge but if they want more then 50 for the pair i will just get the sensor.. hell even that i techniclly cant afford... i have just enough cash for gas for the next 2 weeks... but without the sensor it wont run so it kinda sucks

Alu Wolf

also the flex section on my car currently is completely shot. the braided hose is only there in spirit so to speak. i think only about 1/4 of it is still intact

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You are running overly rich because of the O2 sensor, you likely have a misfire because of the crank ref, and now you have burned out your cats because of it. Fix the codes and then fix your exhaust. All three cats are likely bad. If you are in a smog inspection state you will need to replace them, otherwise warpspeed Y and testpipe.

Had you just fixed your car when the CEL came on, you would have saved a lot of money and time.

Alu Wolf

ok replaced my crank sensor on the front of the engine.... tried cranking it over and still nothing... checked all wiring for the new (used) crank sensor and continuity all checked out fine... checked codes again and found out the other crank sensor was now throwing a code 0802 so i found it and looked at it and found that the red lead was snapped and looked like it had been for a while so i fixed it and now still no start. i checked all the wiring i can follow and test and all checks out. unfortunetly i also accidently reset the comp when checking the codes last time and now have no idea whats wrong since now its throwing 0505 now i have no idea what the issue could be... only thing i can think is the cats still. does anyone have any ideas? im at a loss here and close to just giving up on it and finding a new car and i really dont want to since i cant afford another car right now

c_elliott

iTrader: (2)

0505 is idle air control valve

Possible causes
- Improper idle speed
- The IACV-AAC valve harness is open or shorted
- The IACV-AAC valve circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty IACV-AAC valve
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Alu Wolf

according to the code checker 0505 is no faults detected

could the timing be off now that both crank sensors are repaired?

im at a complete loss here with this. i dont know what to do with this anymore.

c_elliott

iTrader: (2)

When I type in that code the only thing it pulls up is info about the iacv

Also possibly be the cam sensor

Alu Wolf

heres what i get every time i put it in

c_elliott

iTrader: (2)

Scroll down to maxima

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/95ams96-00.shtml

2brosgixxer

For 0505, it depends on how you are checking it...0505 by checking it via the screw on the ECU = no faults, "P"0505 via scanner indicates IACV...just wanted to clarify this since there seems to b some confusion based upon the posts above.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Regarding all those codes, replace the KS last. It does not hurt your car as much as people suggest. If the KS was the only thing wrong with your car, you would have about 89-90% of full power.

I bought my car with a bad KS. Drove all the way from LA to NYC fine. Lived with it for 6 months after that and got 23 mpgs regularly cause i knew that everything else was OK, not in really bad shape.
Wehn I finally replaced the KS I noticed a more power and not much of a mileage improvement.

Anyway, don't worry about your KS for now. Fix all your bigger problems first.

Alu Wolf

i was checking it via the screw on the ecu and all was cleared ( i think i turned the screw back to fast once... but now its still throwing no codes except for 0505 and i am at a loss as to what the issue could be.

could the plugs be fould from cranking and not starting?

a friend of mine whos good with his vg30 in his 300zx (z31) thinks the timing could have went out of wack because the crank sensors were bad and are now fixed... is this even possible? if so ho do i go about adjusting it?

i tried disconnecting the O2 sensor that was throwing the code and it didnt change a thing. disconnected the Y pipe thinking maybe the cats are to clogged for it to run and still cranks but no ignition. So i hooked it all back up. im not to sure where to go from here. could the cam sensor be out of adjustment maybe?

or could there be a ground im missing? or maybe a bad vacume line?

checked the egr valve and it is functioning properly as well as the iacv both are working the way they should.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

The timing isn't adjustable. Bad sensors don't change the timing. Timing is fixed by the pickups and controlled by the ECU.

Pull a plug, see what it looks like.

Alu Wolf

ok checked plugs... there aging but not badly worn... cylinder 2 plug was wet and only plug that was wet (front of engine closest to tirewall and passanger shock tower) all wires are connected and grounds are good. i am at a complete loss here and could lose my job if i dont get it fixed soon.

could my ecm have went? and is there a way to check if its bad or not?

what other possible things could there be wrong?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Maybe your just flooded now. Your wet plugs seem to suggest that. I would try starting the car WOT.

Alu Wolf

tried that didnt change anything... tried feathering it holding it at half and still nothing...

also only 2 was wet... all other cylinders were dry... this is really puzzling me. im going to try letting it sit till tonight and then hopefully it will start

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Spray a good amount of starting flud in the throttle body, see If it starts briefly. If it does, the fuel is your issue. If it doesn't, spark is your issue.

Alu Wolf

well its getting fuel but it smells funny coming out the exhaust... smells like it was partially burnt maybe? battery is now worn down to where it needs to be jumped.

i have no idea what the issue could be. i noticed something sparking when tried jumping it earlier. i thought it was the ground smoking at first but that wasnt it. i cant find any melting wires or anything that could have shorted out.

could i be missing something? like is there a common place that shorts out on the chassis or engine?

Alu Wolf

i will get some starting fluid today and see what happens. hopefully it will help. i know its getting fuel (at least to cyinder 2... was the only one wet when i checked the plugs)

could the ECM have somehow gotten shorted out or died? and if so is there a way to check it?

could a bad IACV or PCV cause this?

like i have said prior ECM is showing no codes.

if i used a diagnostic tool would anything show up as bad even though the by checking the ECM in diagnostic mode shows nothing?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Is the ECU screw back in the center position?

c_elliott

iTrader: (2)

If the screw is back in the center position, then go rent a code reader (if you dont have one). See what the reader tells you as far as codes.

Alu Wolf

the screw is back to where its supposed to be (according to the one thread on checking the ECM the screw goes fully left not center) but i will get right on that and hopefully the scanner will tell me something

and thank you all for the help with this so far

Alu Wolf

could it be a bad relay? and if so is there another less important relay i can pull to replace it with temporarily to test if its the cause?

on my way to get some starting fluid now to see if it helps

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Maybe your fuel pump is dying. When you turn the key to the RUN position (all the idiot lights light up but the car is not running), do you hear any whirring? The fuel pump is under the rear seat cushion. Normally you never hear it, but a bad one may make grinding noises.

What kind of maintenance have you done on this car?

Fuel filter?
FPR?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Where in the world did you read that? The screw needs to be centered.

Wondering if this is the cause of your no start... Let see.

Dave87

I'm not sure if you checked this already, but have you tried actually changing the MAF? My Z31 did the same thing. I was driving it then it went *put put* then died. Turns out it was a combination of a bad MAF and clogged converter. Also the ECU did go bad in the process which threw false codes at me. I replaced the ECU, same deal and I eventually narrowed to down to the previously mentioned items. GOOD LUCK!!

Alu Wolf

replaced both crank sensors cam sensor and iacv with ones from the scrap yard... started right up now only have codes for rear heated O2 and of course the knock sensor.

thanks again for the help on the issue everyone. i would have scrapped the car if the problems persisted without being resolved.

Alu Wolf

ok now i have a new issue... idle is high... around 1500 rpm. adjusting valve on new IACV is closed fully and when i let off the gas and push in the clutch the engine revs 2 or 3 times to about 2500 then goes down to 1k then back up to 1500

could it be the TPS?

or could it be a vacume leak?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I think it's the fast idle cam....there's a good thread on the org somewhere about it....

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Check out this thread........

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...placement.html

Alu Wolf

ok the fast idle cam does look to be the issue. thank you all very much for the help