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need help bose fuse keeps blowing under dash

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Old 04-23-2013, 10:46 AM
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need help bose fuse keeps blowing under dash

I have a 95 maxima with aftermarket speakers and 2 12 inch subs. 2 days ago my bose fuse blew for my regular speakers and tweeters up front, So all I could hear was my subs in the trunk. I have rear speakers, but none are hooked up and I took the amps off the rears. So I replaced the fuse, and thought everything was good, then about 20 mins later it blows again, I repeat the process and it blows when i turn the key to acc. The head unit still comes on and the subs come on just not the front speakers. SO I took off both door panels, and unplugged both front bose amps, still blew a fuse, so its not the bose amp. I then removed the cd player, and I noticed the purple and black wire that I had hooked up to the blue and white wire was causing the fuse to blow, but its been hooked up like that for over a year now??? The blue and white wire is, if im not mistaken the wire that turns on the bose amps. The audio relay still clicks because I hear it. I dont know if its bad or not. has anyone else had this problem, I am stumped on this one! dont want to go without a radio!!
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:17 PM
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The purple/black and blue/white wires you mention, which of them is on the OE harness? If it's a harness adapter, what pin number or to what OE color does that go?

The BOSE fuse (15a, number 22) does nothing but power all 4 speakers when switched on by the audio amp relay (triggered by the 'amp on signal' from the radio, factory color G/W). I assume this is the wire you disconnected to keep the fuse from blowing.

Have you done anything, had anything done, or has anything happened to the vehicle immediately before you noticed the problem?

Ensure the harness is disconnected at all 4 speakers and there's no obvious chafing of the harness or wires near the speaker locations and try it again, see if it still blows (a fuse style circuit breaker would come in handy here, so you don't waste so many fuses).

If you can put in a circuit breaker and use an inductive ammeter, it should be rather simple to find where your short is. If not, you're pretty much left with examining the harness to find where it's shorting to ground.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:27 PM
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the white and blue wire is on the oe harness, the purple and black wire is the aftermarket cd player harness. the only thing ive done recently was add a different tweeter in the passenger side from a 99 maxima in which they are in different places on the 95 and 99 but was just plug and play
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:43 PM
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well just looked again and the blue and the blue and white wire is actually from my cd player harness
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
well just looked again and the blue and the blue and white wire is actually from my cd player harness
You've mentioned blue, blue/white, and white/blue, all three of which are completely different. The FSM shows a G/W to the relay.
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:03 AM
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which color wire do i need to connect for the bose amps to turn on. i went to nortons and they told me i had my rear speaker wires connected to the remote wire/ amp turn on, which is why the fuse kept blowing. so i connected the two rear speaker wires, but now i still dont get any sound, not even a click from the audio relay
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:48 PM
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still havent figured out whats wrong yet!! are the tweeters considered to be part of the bose system too?
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
which color wire do i need to connect for the bose amps to turn on. i went to nortons and they told me i had my rear speaker wires connected to the remote wire/ amp turn on, which is why the fuse kept blowing. so i connected the two rear speaker wires, but now i still dont get any sound, not even a click from the audio relay
One last time, factory color is a G/W wire to trigger the audio amp relay.

Originally Posted by maxinout93
still havent figured out whats wrong yet!! are the tweeters considered to be part of the bose system too?
Yes, the tweeters are run directly through the front speakers.

Have you followed any of my previous instructions? You need to check the harness for where it's shorting to ground.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
One last time, factory color is a G/W wire to trigger the audio amp relay.



Yes, the tweeters are run directly through the front speakers.

Have you followed any of my previous instructions? You need to check the harness for where it's shorting to ground.
I had someone else look at it and tore everything down again, its shorting somewhere but I dont know where, I even changed out the amps and the fuse still blows, So I either look for where the short is, or I just delete the bose system altogather, and rewire the car. I still have audio, just not from the bose system.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:17 PM
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if i delete the bose system, which i most likely will, can i use the factory speaker wires? or do i hav to run my own speaker wires?
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:22 PM
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If you are going to install any kind of a head unit with power, then yes, run wires. The Bose head unit sends a fairly low power level to the speakers, which is why there is an amplifier on each speaker. Because the power level to the speaker is low, the wire in the Nissan harness is thin and can't support high wattage.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:01 PM
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You will be fine splicing into the factory wires. That's what I did and the speakers sound great. Even at high volume it is crisp and clear. No point in running all new wire unless you are powering your speakers with a high powered amp, which at that point you use RCA's anyways. Unless the short is in the original wire, which I doubt, the factory wire will be fine. Just splice into the original wire, but I wouldn't cut the original harness off, just in case you want to put Bose back in.


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Old 04-29-2013, 12:03 AM
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Ok thanks for your responses guys, I really didnt want to have to run new wire through the car unless i just absolutely had to, but spilcing into the factory wire sounds like a good and quick idea, hate to be a pest but what colors are the 2 front +- wires and the 2 rear +- wires to splice into?
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
Ok thanks for your responses guys, I really didnt want to have to run new wire through the car unless i just absolutely had to, but spilcing into the factory wire sounds like a good and quick idea, hate to be a pest but what colors are the 2 front +- wires and the 2 rear +- wires to splice into?
Look for the factory color codes of the wires online. Thats what I did. Make sure it is for the bose unit though. Or you could take a multimeter and check for current.


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Old 04-29-2013, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Aflion
Look for the factory color codes of the wires online. Thats what I did. Make sure it is for the bose unit though. Or you could take a multimeter and check for current.


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ok thanks man will try that first thing in the morning!!!
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:31 AM
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No problem. Good luck!


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Old 04-29-2013, 10:20 AM
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well looks like everything came bak on, i changed both front bose amps and put fuse bak in and its working for now, thanks for everyones help, was about to go crazy without a radio
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:18 PM
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Update bose system fuse blew again, got tired of it and rewired the whole car speakers that is, sounds great works great, im happy now lol! thanks for u guys help and suggestions, First time I ever rewired anything, and didnt think I could do it myself lol, just read the wiring diaghams and color codes and everything works!!
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:25 PM
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Woohoo!!! Congratulations! Bet that's a good feeling of accomplishment. And now you have the wonderful gift of music again.


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Old 05-02-2013, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Aflion
Woohoo!!! Congratulations! Bet that's a good feeling of accomplishment. And now you have the wonderful gift of music again.


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lol yessiirrr sounds alot better now!
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