am i on the right track?
01-31-2013, 05:48 PM
#1
am i on the right track?
It would seem every morning/afternoon/evening. cold or dead of summer. my maxi will start up and bog down to death, now i know of the current tsb relating to the hardstarting in cold. but this applies to all situations. However after its been running for a while it'll bark up no problems. Here's my thought, is it possible the fuel pressure regulator is failing? yet starts up due to residual fuel pressure possibly lingering after being driven for a while? idk, its usually solved with me giving it a lil feathering of the pedal but id like for just a smooth start, less the cold situation. anybody thoughts/opinions.
*forgot to add ive already cleaned the maf, TB, IACV, EGR...*
*forgot to add ive already cleaned the maf, TB, IACV, EGR...*
Last edited by steezmuffin686; 01-31-2013 at 05:54 PM.
02-01-2013, 02:33 AM
#2
When I had your symptoms, I cleaned my TB and IACV which solved my problem...but you've already tried that so I'm not sure what to tell you. I'd look at/replace the PCV valve if you haven't within the last 30,000 miles or so.
Yes, it could be the fpr. Maybe even a failing fuel pump.
No modifications, correct? Bone stock?
When is the last time you changed the PCV valve and fuel filter?
Yes, it could be the fpr. Maybe even a failing fuel pump.
No modifications, correct? Bone stock?
When is the last time you changed the PCV valve and fuel filter?
02-01-2013, 06:58 AM
#3
Thanks for the response wizard, the fuel filter i replaced with a 300zx fuel filter about 10k miles ago. and the pcv valve i have yet to touch so perhaps il try that. only mods i have are bolt ons, (see sig) nothing relating to fuel, or spark so its a wonder. il give the pcv valve a go and report back.
02-01-2013, 06:23 PM
#5
No, that's not it. Stand at the drivers fender at look right at the throttle body. Now look 2" behind the TB and to the left a smidge and there is a hose going into the top of the rear valve cover. The PCV valve is there.
02-01-2013, 09:21 PM
#8
From Google:
There are two methods to quickly determine the health of the PCV valve. The first is to remove the oil cap and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. If the paper is not sucked against the hole, this could be a sign that the valve is faulty.
Another method is to disconnect the valve from the valve cover, while leaving the hose attached. Place a finger over the open end of the hose and you should feel a strong suction, which indicates that the valve is working well. While it's detached, give the auto part a shake. An unobstructed valve will produce a rattling noise.
02-02-2013, 03:35 PM
#9
Take the PCV and shake it. If you here something jiggling inside, it's not clogged. If you don't hear anything, it's clogged.
From Google:
There are two methods to quickly determine the health of the PCV valve. The first is to remove the oil cap and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. If the paper is not sucked against the hole, this could be a sign that the valve is faulty.
Another method is to disconnect the valve from the valve cover, while leaving the hose attached. Place a finger over the open end of the hose and you should feel a strong suction, which indicates that the valve is working well. While it's detached, give the auto part a shake. An unobstructed valve will produce a rattling noise.
From Google:
There are two methods to quickly determine the health of the PCV valve. The first is to remove the oil cap and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. If the paper is not sucked against the hole, this could be a sign that the valve is faulty.
Another method is to disconnect the valve from the valve cover, while leaving the hose attached. Place a finger over the open end of the hose and you should feel a strong suction, which indicates that the valve is working well. While it's detached, give the auto part a shake. An unobstructed valve will produce a rattling noise.
02-04-2013, 04:03 PM
#10
02-04-2013, 04:27 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Clinton Township, MI
Posts: 72
Just changed mine out two days ago. Sucks even with the TB and attached hoses out of the way. Several flat heads on either side prying it up helps some. Mine rattled very little when I inspected it. It may have been the original OEM. Replaced it with a Fram.
02-09-2013, 09:51 AM
#12
well i replace the pcv with oem nissan. and still no dice. also just replace the spark plugs w/ ngk v-power. would there be anything else i could/should check before going ahead w/ the fpr and after that fuel pump? gettn close to stumped.
02-09-2013, 12:33 PM
#13
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Check the resistance of the ECT sensor, refer to the FSM for the correct temp vs resistance values.
Also make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working correctly. It's down under and to the left on the throttle body. If its working correctly, it should open the throttle plate slightly when then engine is cool. This helps maintain a faster idle speed when the coolant/engine temperature is low.
Also make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working correctly. It's down under and to the left on the throttle body. If its working correctly, it should open the throttle plate slightly when then engine is cool. This helps maintain a faster idle speed when the coolant/engine temperature is low.
02-09-2013, 12:51 PM
#14
Check the resistance of the ECT sensor, refer to the FSM for the correct temp vs resistance values.
Also make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working correctly. It's down under and to the left on the throttle body. If its working correctly, it should open the throttle plate slightly when then engine is cool. This helps maintain a faster idle speed when the coolant/engine temperature is low.
Also make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working correctly. It's down under and to the left on the throttle body. If its working correctly, it should open the throttle plate slightly when then engine is cool. This helps maintain a faster idle speed when the coolant/engine temperature is low.
02-10-2013, 02:36 PM
#15
That's gotta be it! That's what controls your car's fuel injection when the car's temp is cold from setting up....If the ECT or water temp sensor is bad or it's wiring is faulty you will have a hard time starting when the engine is cold but runs fine once it's up the operating temperture.....Junkyard bound, for you can find dozens of them to test with....
02-10-2013, 02:39 PM
#16
That's gotta be it! That's what controls your car's fuel injection when the car's temp is cold from setting up....If the ECT or water temp sensor is bad or it's wiring is faulty you will have a hard time starting when the engine is cold but runs fine once it's up the operating temperture.....Junkyard bound, for you can find dozens of them to test with....
02-10-2013, 02:56 PM
#17
02-11-2013, 05:29 PM
#18
02-11-2013, 05:34 PM
#19
Check the resistance of the ECT sensor, refer to the FSM for the correct temp vs resistance values.
Also make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working correctly. It's down under and to the left on the throttle body. If its working correctly, it should open the throttle plate slightly when then engine is cool. This helps maintain a faster idle speed when the coolant/engine temperature is low.
Also make sure the cold idle plunger and linkage is working correctly. It's down under and to the left on the throttle body. If its working correctly, it should open the throttle plate slightly when then engine is cool. This helps maintain a faster idle speed when the coolant/engine temperature is low.
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