Redundant Max problem
#1
Redundant Max problem
I know You guys have probably heard and seen it all. Up until recently when the weather starting getting cold My 95 max JUST out of the blue would "not" start no matter how much I kept at it. It just flat out pist me off. So I left her for a day and came back to her. Why are the plugs wet with fuel? she pops in the intake and I have a P0340 code that "keeps" returning. I have checked the CPS and it is right within the Nissan spec of 1455 Ohms of resistance. Just to be sure I went and bought a new unit from nissan and swapped it out. Still the same thing. I am getting a bright blue spark on all six cylinders. I am getting gas, way too much, and the pressure regulator is a new nissan unit because I do not have faith in the Parts houses sending out for Cheap garbage. Popping the clutch is good and she picks up takes off just like there is no problem, she is quiet and responsive just will not start with the key. All relays have been checked And I even added a new grounding system from frame rail to frame rail and back to engine I am getting continuity with the grounding system, i.e. no resistance for path to ground from engine to starter and back to negative lead on battery. Coils are fine, timing is right on cue, starter motor cranks over the motor ok but when it wants to act up it will slow it down like its having pissy fit. I had to change the oil because of gasoline watering down the oil so obviously somethings going on. Timing chain tensioners are fine, with 50 PSI oil pressure at 2000. chain is good and absolutely silent. Fuel pressure is good at nominal 43 PSI The p 0340 code tells me to look within the CPS crcuit, ok fine I have done that with ground as the black wire and no resistance. White wire leads directly from the ECM pin #46&47 with continuity. Good there too. As I said SHE runs Beautifully and sounds like a switch watch. This problem is seriously starting to **** me off. I am about to off the car if this issue is not addressed Any thoughts?
#2
I take it you never pulled the trans and sanded the bell housing? Like I said in your other thread adding wires is only a temp fix.
Grounding problem isn't with continuity, It's with the voltage dropping to low and disrupting the signal of the CPS.
Grounding problem isn't with continuity, It's with the voltage dropping to low and disrupting the signal of the CPS.
#4
I think Maxima_Joe is probably right, i don't have have a 4th gen myself but i heard if rust develops around the bellhousing and your starter it will cause it not to start.Take your starter off and check'er out.. if there's corosion shave it away. Good luck man
#5
Max Joe, that's the thing I did exactly as you had described, And the starting problem went away! That's what has me so Stumped! Although your suggestion of voltage drop does make sense! I'll look into it and let you know. If I didn't say it before Thank you
Last edited by 89newporker; 11-21-2012 at 08:09 AM. Reason: spelling
#7
I have had problems before even with sanding the mating surfaces. It normally creeps up when the weather gets cold as well. I don't know if its from the metal shrinking and expanding or what the deal is. Have you tried tightning the mounting bolts at all?
#8
Not Yet, I went ahead and pulled the trans again because I had a dry throwout and there is oxidation at the mating surface yet again. So I was curious if I use some No-ox (corrosion/oxidation inhibitor) would that hurt more than help? Just wanted to add a tidbit of info, a few weeks ago we had a pretty decent snow storm come through and the city did Salt the roads!, which btw is VERY rare here! My thought is it possible if some of that crap caused the process to start all over again? Either way, Trans is out "again" to clean her up from the white crusty crap. Uggh! will update as soon as she is back together.
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