Who has Raxles? Issues?
09-21-2012, 10:11 PM
#41
09-22-2012, 06:37 AM
#43
I did not, but only because it was replaced not long ago by a shop due to the leak. $200 that I could have saved if the axle failed first. But on the other han, if I had a spare in hand I would change it again. iMHO, the seal is just cheap enough that not worth a job just for itself.
09-22-2012, 08:27 AM
#44
I did not, but only because it was replaced not long ago by a shop due to the leak. $200 that I could have saved if the axle failed first. But on the other han, if I had a spare in hand I would change it again. iMHO, the seal is just cheap enough that not worth a job just for itself.
09-22-2012, 08:59 AM
#45
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
I just know it's gonna be a b1tch to do and I don't have a seal puller.
I found dropping driver side strut helped with getting the spline to seat properly, you can push it right in.
Passenger side - I used a combo of flex head ratchet and flex end box wrenched to get to the collar that holds the axle in. Its a tight squeeze to get I'm there. Air ratchet will not fit in there.
09-22-2012, 10:29 AM
#47
Last edited by wxm; 09-22-2012 at 11:00 AM.
09-22-2012, 11:18 AM
#48
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 29
i replaced both my CV axles and seals. got mine at rock auto. they are remanufactured but for the 60 bucks it cost me apiece i'll take my chances. i thought i saw 200 apiece on the raxles site. no more leak and no issues since i installed 2 weeks ago.
Seal puller is a handy tool. but you can use a screwdriver just as well. i started the seal by hand and used a 2x4 and hammer against the seal to drive it home. no issues and no more leak.
Seal puller is a handy tool. but you can use a screwdriver just as well. i started the seal by hand and used a 2x4 and hammer against the seal to drive it home. no issues and no more leak.
09-22-2012, 04:17 PM
#49
The raxles come with all new seals. Just remove old and replace. I found dropping driver side strut helped with getting the spline to seat properly, you can push it right in. Passenger side - I used a combo of flex head ratchet and flex end box wrenched to get to the collar that holds the axle in. Its a tight squeeze to get I'm there. Air ratchet will not fit in there.
Both coilovers will be removed.
Seal pullers are inexpensive. Here is one on sale now(http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5741-Se...ds=seal+puller). If you don't have one, it might be a good idea to keep on in the tool box anyway. Setting the new seal however is a bit tricky if you don't have seal setting tools, but you might be able to get away with a large size socket...
09-22-2012, 06:14 PM
#51
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
Are you sure they come with new seals? I'll have to ask.
Both coilovers will be removed.
I'll probably buy that if I can't find one at the shop. I am worried about seating them. I'll see about those too.
09-22-2012, 09:30 PM
#55
09-23-2012, 07:05 AM
#56
09-23-2012, 10:27 AM
#58
Parts only go in one way or they don't fit. .......No need to remove anything really .... just slip the brake line holder off the strut and you can spin the strut 90º out of the way to clear the axle from the hub. Easy easy easy ....
Mine did NOT come with new seals .... either time.
Wow ... ur brave! LOL Spin the 36mm socket around like I said before and it fits perfectly against the seal, this way you don't run a chance of tearing the rubber and having a leak in the future.
09-23-2012, 04:43 PM
#59
My civic has raxles. A friend of mine did it. When he installed the 1st time, my car would go into gear, but the gears would spin like they were in neutral. No connection to the wheel yet everything came back together. He took things apart and got it right the next time. Go figure
DW
09-23-2012, 05:50 PM
#60
I figured but I'll call and ask anyway. Sounds like I'll be making a trip to the dealer.
My civic has raxles. A friend of mine did it. When he installed the 1st time, my car would go into gear, but the gears would spin like they were in neutral. No connection to the wheel yet everything came back together. He took things apart and got it right the next time. Go figure.
09-23-2012, 08:35 PM
#61
Anyone know if these are the two seals?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/38342p-...-p-189636.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/38342q-...1784_1851_1858&
If not, does anyone know the part numbers? Car is a '96, auto, non-LSD and ABS if that matters.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/38342p-...-p-189636.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/38342q-...1784_1851_1858&
If not, does anyone know the part numbers? Car is a '96, auto, non-LSD and ABS if that matters.
09-24-2012, 07:25 PM
#62
There's room for that 36mm socket to set up in there, I used a long (very long) extension to seat the PS seal. Actually, I had my wife use the hammer and I held the socket on the seal to guide it.
09-24-2012, 07:28 PM
#63
Also, just going to be changing the driver side. The passenger side clunking is from a bad tie rod end. I might change the driver side tie rod end too.
09-24-2012, 09:09 PM
#64
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by JtzMax
Not sure Chris ... I'd not want to risk the chance they didn't seat properly or that I tore the seal during install. Call me old fashioned I guess.
There's room for that 36mm socket to set up in there, I used a long (very long) extension to seat the PS seal. Actually, I had my wife use the hammer and I held the socket on the seal to guide it.
09-26-2012, 10:36 AM
#65
09-26-2012, 07:55 PM
#66
Nothing wrong with doing them one at a time. I did .... have had to do that many times due to $$$ or time.
09-26-2012, 08:03 PM
#67
Hopefully I can remove the driver side without pulling the passenger side. I have an auto.
09-26-2012, 08:27 PM
#68
09-26-2012, 08:31 PM
#69
lol I'll be ordering it early next week and already have the Moog tie rod end on the way. I'll update this whenever I get everything done. Thanks a lot for everything guys! This is why I still love the org
09-28-2012, 08:02 PM
#71
Not a bad idea .... but, I hope you have a press and a grinder. There's a way to do it that an old Nissan tech showed me on mine. You'll need to use the outer race to insert the new outer race of the bearing.
Maybe this should be a diff thread, but hey ... it's your thread. hehehehe Basically, you'll need to grind down the outer race (old one of course) and it'll need to be 1/2 the width ground down. Grind off about 1/2 the thickness. Use that to seat the new bearing, DO NOT USE A HAMMER .... long story and somewhat embarrassing.
This is where the press comes in ... At any rate, it's not a hard job really, just time consuming.
Maybe this should be a diff thread, but hey ... it's your thread. hehehehe Basically, you'll need to grind down the outer race (old one of course) and it'll need to be 1/2 the width ground down. Grind off about 1/2 the thickness. Use that to seat the new bearing, DO NOT USE A HAMMER .... long story and somewhat embarrassing.
This is where the press comes in ... At any rate, it's not a hard job really, just time consuming.
09-28-2012, 08:07 PM
#73
09-28-2012, 08:26 PM
#74
Not a bad idea .... but, I hope you have a press and a grinder. There's a way to do it that an old Nissan tech showed me on mine. You'll need to use the outer race to insert the new outer race of the bearing.
Maybe this should be a diff thread, but hey ... it's your thread. hehehehe Basically, you'll need to grind down the outer race (old one of course) and it'll need to be 1/2 the width ground down. Grind off about 1/2 the thickness. Use that to seat the new bearing, DO NOT USE A HAMMER .... long story and somewhat embarrassing. This is where the press comes in ... At any rate, it's not a hard job really, just time consuming.
Maybe this should be a diff thread, but hey ... it's your thread. hehehehe Basically, you'll need to grind down the outer race (old one of course) and it'll need to be 1/2 the width ground down. Grind off about 1/2 the thickness. Use that to seat the new bearing, DO NOT USE A HAMMER .... long story and somewhat embarrassing.
This is where the press comes in ... At any rate, it's not a hard job really, just time consuming.First I removed the hub with a slide hammer after removing the axle nut.
Then Then I removed the seals and circlips.
Then I removed the knuckle from the car and drove the bearing out with a large drift and shop hammer, working around and around the bearing.
Last edited by asand1; 09-28-2012 at 08:40 PM.
09-28-2012, 08:41 PM
#75
09-30-2012, 10:08 AM
#77
heheheheheehhe
it could be done .... if you had some help maybe. I can do both axles (on a lift with air / power tools) in like 30 min's. But ... i've done a FEW!
And I totally understand the lazy part, hell .... it's my middle name!
it could be done .... if you had some help maybe. I can do both axles (on a lift with air / power tools) in like 30 min's. But ... i've done a FEW!
And I totally understand the lazy part, hell .... it's my middle name!
10-02-2012, 02:50 PM
#79
For those with Raxles:
Did yours come with a cotter pin? I see the new nut in here but no pin. I figured it would've came with one.
I must say, this thing is beautiful. Very solid piece. You can just tell it's super high quality.
Did yours come with a cotter pin? I see the new nut in here but no pin. I figured it would've came with one.
I must say, this thing is beautiful. Very solid piece. You can just tell it's super high quality.
10-02-2012, 03:19 PM
#80
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
For those with Raxles:
Did yours come with a cotter pin? I see the new nut in here but no pin. I figured it would've came with one.
I must say, this thing is beautiful. Very solid piece. You can just tell it's super high quality.
Did yours come with a cotter pin? I see the new nut in here but no pin. I figured it would've came with one.
I must say, this thing is beautiful. Very solid piece. You can just tell it's super high quality.