Nugent20

just finished a swap and got it to start basically first try - shut it off after about 10-15 seconds and now wont start again....few issues are:

cranks slowly - battery is charged

when ignition is on and gas is pressed i hear a buzzing (sounds like from fuel pump, if thats whats under hood near brake booster)

and (unrelated) what hose goes on the line coming out of the top of the auto transmission just below the trans mount? - is it a vacuum line, etc?

and lastly, how detrimental is it to run (or try to run) if I dont have the whole evap system routed correctly? I switched from a 96 I30 model to a 97 max engine which has the CA evap system and I tried to route around it....


NGK

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Make sure your connections are clean.
Add grounds to engine block and transmission.
Check the starter, it may be failing.
The buzz is the iacv valve.
The transmission line is a vent, it goes nowhere.
The evap system issue is going to throw codes, it will not effect engine performance.

Nugent20

p.s. just tried to use jumper cables to verify the ground to starter and trans/engine - still cranks slow....

and is the IACV valve buzzing normal/OK?

THX

Nugent20

here's a vid of it trying...

http://youtu.be/aWtm-c-hMWs

Nugent20

thanks NJmax for the advice -

I grounded engine and starter/trans with jumper cables - still slow cranking

found all correct vacuum routing


...any ideas why im still cranking slowly? even tried jumping off my G35 - still slow.
starter is a reman nissan part about 1-2yrs old...

Maxima_Joe

iTrader: (384)

Auto trans normally don't have problems with grounding. That doesn't sound like a charged battery. Whats the voltage at?

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Switch batteries with your G.

Nugent20

thanks for the info on the auto's - I was going nuts to ensure I had enough ground. I'd love to use the G battery however that one needs an alternator and the batt is near death...

so its gets more interesting - I was turning it over as you saw in the video, slowly - then finally quit. just click. click. nada. so I pulled starter and had autozone test starter and battery - both passed. Reinstalled, checked for voltage at the starter (only had power on the main post, didnt have another person to turn key while I checked the switched power) and still nada, wont turn over now...

basically it was turning over slowly, then stopped - is it safe to turn at the crankshaft pulley to see if I'm locked up internally? and if so, better to do in neutral obviously, right>? ...or is it more sensor/voltage related? I checked the 30(?) Amp IGN fuse next to the battery, is there a relay, etc I'm missing>?

Thanks

Maxima_Joe

iTrader: (384)

Yes you can turn the engine over at the crankshaft pulley. Doesn't matter if the car is in park. It would be very odd for the engine to seize up. Do you know the history of the engine?

Nugent20

history - it was purchased from LKQ from a '97 max (CA spec) with 108k, 6 mo warranty for roughly $650- not a bad deal it seems....it was supposedly test run before it was pulled (as the tag was marked) -

i did crank it over manually at the pulley today so no internal damage

next I jumped the terminals on the starter and it turns over, then pop, i think the starter actually died. Weird tho, I had it bench tested at autozone yest, and passed. Do they put it under any load, or just see if it spins? Cause the load seemed to cause it to die again..

im prob going to try a cheap starter from auto store to see if that clears up the slow cranking, if not I have bigger issues I presume...
thanks all


NGK

cashoit

Autozone doesnt (cant) put it under same load as the engine so a bench test at autozone is just to see if the starter spinning. Tells u nothing about whether its weak or strong.

Replace starter.

U have an electrical issue sir with the tranny side crank sensor. First, add a 4 awg or 0awg wire from negative battery termnial to a bolt on the tranny. Check the cranksensor for fouling and/or replace.

TEst the cam sensor per fsm.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

Since your starter is turning over you don't need to have someone turn the key to test the IGN switch nor worry about the relays and fuses. Your problem is either the starter isn't receiving enough AMPs or the starter is worn down and isn't giving enough power.

While at autozone pick up a new 35N or 24F battery. If it still doesn't crank then try that new starter and return the battery.

Nugent20

happy to report - new starter and a solid 4ga ground direct to the starter from battery and she fires up every time. solid idle, no smoke, even drives great. THANKS for the tips

I do hear a slight rattle/vibe coming from cv/axle (i think) at speed, any idea what to check? its all snug, hub is tight, no play in wheel, etc....

jayeyeMax

can u please post a pic of how u directly grounded your starter