napa parts suck?
03-04-2012, 08:28 PM
#1
napa parts suck?
sup org,
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
03-04-2012, 09:32 PM
#3
Very few aftermarket companies have quality control so even with companies like Greddy and Apexi, parts will prematurely fail. You just never hear about it because people are embarrassed I suppose. Personally, I have always liked the NAPA parts but I have never bought brake components from them. I usually get their best brand, forget what they call it though. Thats the ****ty part about working on your car yourself. **** goes haywire then its all on you lol. Don't they have a warranty though? Calipers shouldn't fail like that so soon. Could be another issue in your braking system though being that it lasted a month....
03-05-2012, 01:56 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
sup org,
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
03-05-2012, 02:46 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
The napa calipers suck they always got there calipers either fail or they needed to be exchanged because they were wrong fitting the vehicle. The napa's quality sucks there brake pads are there best bet. The axles like I stated would be a 50/50 that means you'll have to go through them to get to get through the right one.
03-05-2012, 06:02 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 490
sup org,
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
03-05-2012, 07:41 AM
#8
sup org,
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
heres the deal, last summer my passenger rear caliper froze up on me which is a common problem ive come to find out. so since i didnt want to replace the drivers side a few months later i decided to replace both rear calipers with loaded calipers. i also replaced the rotors just to be on the safe side.
now here we are a few months later and guess what... i have to replace the drivers rear caliper because its seized
has anyone else had an experience like this with napa parts?
i thought napa had some of the best parts out there?
Last edited by CMax03; 03-05-2012 at 07:43 AM.
03-05-2012, 07:54 AM
#10
I got a simple answer for you, yes they suck. I had there axles in my car and they made my car work hard to accelerate. I had nissan oem axles in the car would drive itself in d or atleast the car did not have the dragging issue. This all due to an improper design on there axles. The axle coming in and out of the tranny housing is how the car is supposed to work.
The napa calipers suck they always got there calipers either fail or they needed to be exchanged because they were wrong fitting the vehicle. The napa's quality sucks there brake pads are there best bet. The axles like I stated would be a 50/50 that means you'll have to go through them to get to get through the right one.
my mechanic uses napa and I have have drive cv assemblies fail in the first week and also coil packs that set off codes installed by him and then had to have the parts exchanged- expensive comebacks (in time). napa might buy from the cheapest chinese vendor and then not inspect
03-05-2012, 08:15 AM
#11
^ +1
I replaced both my rear OEM calipers with refurbished ones from autozone in March 2011. This past January with the highs in the 20s the right rear caliper froze. The parking brake cable was still loose after releasing it. I was lucky because it wasn't the cable that seized but the adjusting CAM in the caliper. I banged the lever with a piece of wood to get the piston to release. I'd much rather replace a lifetime warrantied caliper than have to drop the exhaust shields to reach the parking brake cable.
To make up for this caliper failing within a year the manager had me exchange both rear calipers along with all 4 pads and both discs. The ceramic pads have a lifetime warranty but even though the warranty on the discs was expired they still gave me a new set.
The lifetime warrantied refurbished starter I got from advance auto only lasted 8 months. Last Friday the solenoid switch shorted and kept the starter running after I turned the engine off.
Something I learned from this is don't expect aftermarket refurbished parts to last as long as OEM parts.
I replaced both my rear OEM calipers with refurbished ones from autozone in March 2011. This past January with the highs in the 20s the right rear caliper froze. The parking brake cable was still loose after releasing it. I was lucky because it wasn't the cable that seized but the adjusting CAM in the caliper. I banged the lever with a piece of wood to get the piston to release. I'd much rather replace a lifetime warrantied caliper than have to drop the exhaust shields to reach the parking brake cable.
To make up for this caliper failing within a year the manager had me exchange both rear calipers along with all 4 pads and both discs. The ceramic pads have a lifetime warranty but even though the warranty on the discs was expired they still gave me a new set.
The lifetime warrantied refurbished starter I got from advance auto only lasted 8 months. Last Friday the solenoid switch shorted and kept the starter running after I turned the engine off.
Something I learned from this is don't expect aftermarket refurbished parts to last as long as OEM parts.
03-05-2012, 08:25 AM
#12
^ +1
I replaced both my rear OEM calipers with refurbished ones from autozone in March 2011. This past January with the highs in the 20s the right rear caliper froze. The parking brake cable was still loose after releasing it. I was lucky because it wasn't the cable that seized but the adjusting CAM in the caliper. I banged the lever with a piece of wood to get the piston to release. I'd much rather replace a lifetime warrantied caliper than have to drop the exhaust shields to reach the parking brake cable.
To make up for this caliper failing within a year the manager had me exchange both rear calipers along with all 4 pads and both discs. The ceramic pads have a lifetime warranty but even though the warranty on the discs was expired they still gave me a new set.
The lifetime warrantied refurbished starter I got from advance auto only lasted 8 months. Last Friday the solenoid switch shorted and kept the starter running after I turned the engine off.
Something I learned from this is don't expect aftermarket refurbished parts to last as long as OEM parts.
I replaced both my rear OEM calipers with refurbished ones from autozone in March 2011. This past January with the highs in the 20s the right rear caliper froze. The parking brake cable was still loose after releasing it. I was lucky because it wasn't the cable that seized but the adjusting CAM in the caliper. I banged the lever with a piece of wood to get the piston to release. I'd much rather replace a lifetime warrantied caliper than have to drop the exhaust shields to reach the parking brake cable.
To make up for this caliper failing within a year the manager had me exchange both rear calipers along with all 4 pads and both discs. The ceramic pads have a lifetime warranty but even though the warranty on the discs was expired they still gave me a new set.
The lifetime warrantied refurbished starter I got from advance auto only lasted 8 months. Last Friday the solenoid switch shorted and kept the starter running after I turned the engine off.
Something I learned from this is don't expect aftermarket refurbished parts to last as long as OEM parts.
03-05-2012, 08:41 AM
#13
03-05-2012, 08:57 AM
#14
Time is money!!!! I installed my caliper once about 3 yrs ago......Rear rotors older than car.....2003 Maxima with 12 yrs old Stillen X-drilled rotors...those inferior parts will be changed again in less than 2 yrs from now! My 03 is on it's 2nd set of Front and rear pads! Practice does make perfection!
03-05-2012, 09:05 AM
#15
I'm highly impressed with NAPA parts and the rear calipers I acquired from NAPA and installed myself over 2 or 3 yrs ago and they still look new! Are you sure it's not your emergency brake cable seizing your calipers???? The only way to find out is to remove the emergency cable and rotate the hub and release the handle pull cable from each side (that's above the exhaust system heat shields) and push and pull the E-cable by hand....If it moves freely then you know it's your caliper and not your E-brake cables....Believe me it's your cable! NAPA puts out quality if troubleshot and installed correctly!
Just out of curiosity which way does the left rear piston turn to compress?
03-05-2012, 12:13 PM
#16
Before installing the rear calipers I tested them by pushing the piston out with the adjusting cam lever then using pliers to compress them. Well the left rear caliper took excessive force to get it compressed. I took that poorly greased refurbished caliper back to autozone. I tested the 3 left rear calipers they had in stock and took the best greased one.
When I traded starters at advance auto last Friday I had them test it right there in the shop before I took it.
Before purchasing refurbished parts I suggest you fully inspect them first.
Last edited by jholley; 03-05-2012 at 12:51 PM.
03-05-2012, 01:57 PM
#17
The refurb starters can test fine and still fail though. Refurbs, even the best ones from NAPA are a shot in the dark. Ill always buy new if I dont get new OEM from Nissan. Just look how many people on this forum alone have bought refurb, starters especially, and they fail or don't even work.
03-05-2012, 02:49 PM
#18
On both rear calipers you turn the piston clockwise to compress it.
Before installing the rear calipers I tested them by pushing the piston out with the adjusting cam lever then using pliers to compress them. Well the left rear caliper took excessive force to get it compressed. I took that poorly greased refurbished caliper back to autozone. I tested the 3 left rear calipers they had in stock and took the best greased one.
When I traded starters at advance auto last Friday I had them test it right there in the shop before I took it.
Before purchasing refurbished parts I suggest you fully inspect them first.
Before installing the rear calipers I tested them by pushing the piston out with the adjusting cam lever then using pliers to compress them. Well the left rear caliper took excessive force to get it compressed. I took that poorly greased refurbished caliper back to autozone. I tested the 3 left rear calipers they had in stock and took the best greased one.
When I traded starters at advance auto last Friday I had them test it right there in the shop before I took it.
Before purchasing refurbished parts I suggest you fully inspect them first.
Turns out the caliper is seized then cuz it doesn't move in any direction no matter how much force I apply.
But... I have a buddy parting out his max so I guess I got lucky. He's selling me both rear loaded calipers with ceramic pads for 100 bucks
03-05-2012, 04:02 PM
#19
I fixed my stuck rear caliper by removing it from its pins, using steel wool to clean the pins up and then repacking the pins in grease.
Water gets in there, rust forms, and the caliper stops operating smoothly.
Water gets in there, rust forms, and the caliper stops operating smoothly.
03-05-2012, 04:07 PM
#20
03-05-2012, 08:11 PM
#21
Well I did replace the rotors recently that's when I discovered that the piston on my 6 month old caliper would not turn in the mechanism on the caliper for the e brake was so new that I could move it by hand the cable on the other hand I did not check but either way the piston didn't compress.
Just out of curiosity which way does the left rear piston turn to compress?
Just out of curiosity which way does the left rear piston turn to compress?
03-05-2012, 08:23 PM
#22
On both rear calipers you turn the piston clockwise to compress it.
Before installing the rear calipers I tested them by pushing the piston out with the adjusting cam lever then using pliers to compress them. Well the left rear caliper took excessive force to get it compressed. I took that poorly greased refurbished caliper back to autozone. I tested the 3 left rear calipers they had in stock and took the best greased one.
When I traded starters at advance auto last Friday I had them test it right there in the shop before I took it.
Before purchasing refurbished parts I suggest you fully inspect them first.
Before installing the rear calipers I tested them by pushing the piston out with the adjusting cam lever then using pliers to compress them. Well the left rear caliper took excessive force to get it compressed. I took that poorly greased refurbished caliper back to autozone. I tested the 3 left rear calipers they had in stock and took the best greased one.
When I traded starters at advance auto last Friday I had them test it right there in the shop before I took it.
Before purchasing refurbished parts I suggest you fully inspect them first.
03-06-2012, 12:18 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
If you don't want to get a another caliper and you don't want to deal with this remain stuff. You can buy bunch of brake fluid or buy atleast 4-5 bottles and dump it in the bucket and have all the bleeder screw removed and let it soak. This will help brake the built up in the caliper when you compress the caliper. I did this with my calipers they work great. I also Pb blast it to help me brake the deposits down.
03-06-2012, 12:28 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
[QUOTE=CMax03;8388624]I've installed many axles on many cars using NAPA and it was smooth sailing....the axle are rebuilt very well and many of their axles are 100% new...The problem more than likely is the installer!
I've used NAPA parts probably longer than you've been alive and there's not too many places I can name that offer Loaded calipers first of all....second their quality is miles beyond that of AZ, O'rielly etc
ok, installing and removing the axle is icing on the cake,but the axle supposedly is supposed to be rammed up hard in the tranny housing or I can twist it to get it in, but I had to whack the damn thing in there. I got myself wondering was this a wrong axle no. I am currently using the parts authority axles man there smooth, the installation was easy on this axle and it was new.
I've used NAPA parts probably longer than you've been alive and there's not too many places I can name that offer Loaded calipers first of all....second their quality is miles beyond that of AZ, O'rielly etc
ok, installing and removing the axle is icing on the cake,but the axle supposedly is supposed to be rammed up hard in the tranny housing or I can twist it to get it in, but I had to whack the damn thing in there. I got myself wondering was this a wrong axle no. I am currently using the parts authority axles man there smooth, the installation was easy on this axle and it was new.
04-16-2012, 11:20 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 29
Napa parts do suck
It seemed I was always having to replace something on my 2000 I30. I was beginning to think the car was really becoming unreliable until I realized that many of the repairs I was doing were for the 2nd and 3rd times. A couple of examples:
My starter failed and I replaced it with a Napa starter. It was dead out of the box so I pulled and returned it. They sold me a different model that worked OK at first but after a couple of months stopped engaging properly with the flywheel. I finally replaced it with a rebuilt starter from another store - no starter problems since, but the Napa starter did damage my flywheel. I also had a Napa starter fail 3 months after the warranty ended on my Mitsubishi truck.
My I30 idle control valve went bad. Napa had the only one in stock in the area for nearly $300 including tax. 13 months later - 1 month after the warranty expired - the valve failed again. I replaced it with a Hitachi valve purchased online and have had no problems for the last 3 years.
I've had numerous other issues with Napa products, usually just after the warranty on the part ends. I stopped buying anything there and have had very few repeat problems since. Repeated product failures right after the warranty ends is the definition of planned obsolescence.
My starter failed and I replaced it with a Napa starter. It was dead out of the box so I pulled and returned it. They sold me a different model that worked OK at first but after a couple of months stopped engaging properly with the flywheel. I finally replaced it with a rebuilt starter from another store - no starter problems since, but the Napa starter did damage my flywheel. I also had a Napa starter fail 3 months after the warranty ended on my Mitsubishi truck.
My I30 idle control valve went bad. Napa had the only one in stock in the area for nearly $300 including tax. 13 months later - 1 month after the warranty expired - the valve failed again. I replaced it with a Hitachi valve purchased online and have had no problems for the last 3 years.
I've had numerous other issues with Napa products, usually just after the warranty on the part ends. I stopped buying anything there and have had very few repeat problems since. Repeated product failures right after the warranty ends is the definition of planned obsolescence.
Last edited by raincity; 04-16-2012 at 11:28 AM.
04-16-2012, 09:32 PM
#26
they all suck and this is how they gety ou to spend money in labor if you are not doing the work yourself. I slowly started to get rid of all my aftermarket parts and bought OEM including starter and inner tie rods. Calipers I am changing too much and I think Nissan has a rebuild kit for them. I am going to try it out and see if its worth it.
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