Jake95maxxi

Ok so this post is similar to the "No Spark" post on 9-11.

I finally got my engine in a couple of days ago. But I'm not getting a spark out of any of the plugs. When I try to crank my car, it tries to start, even smoke comes out of the headers(y-pipe not in yet). Also, all the injectors are clicking.

Any ideas?

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

I would start with the same things posted in the other thread first. Then go from there.

Jake95maxxi

Ok, so new crank and cam sensors? My battery terminal looks bad too. Would that be a problem?

AllMaxxedOut

iTrader: (15)

Definitely make sure sensors are good and of course battery & terminals.

Jake95maxxi

Ok, so I changed all my coils and spark plugs. Still no spark. I also switched my crank and cam sensors, still no spark. My dad tested the plug wires with a multimeter and it had 11.something. So need more help.

Thanks

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

Like was stated in the other thread you should see if you have continuity on the crank and cam circuits between the sensors and the ecu. Make sure EVERY ground is connected and has good contact.

Jake95maxxi

So check the crank and cam sensors with a meter too?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You should probably check the FSM EC section related to the ignition signal
TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR DTC P1320. There you will find some flow charts for troubleshooting no spark condition. Since you have a multimeter and appear to know how to use it this may help you make some progress. It also tells you how to check those sensors.


Here is the link:
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

yes

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

Did u sand the tranny/ engine mating surface? Of not, try adding another ground to the bellhousing. Also make sure the two grounds on the front of the im are good.

brettmaia

replace the erminals if there that bad

brettmaia

check the crank too

Jake95maxxi

Yea i sanded it. My dad says the sensor wire on the plug wire is telling it not to spark. We've tried everything. Still no spark.

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

Sensor wire on the plug telling them not to spark? Ill add that one to the books...

Did you check for continuity on the cam and crank circuits?

Jake95maxxi

Doing that today, what other ground wires are on the engine besides the two that are near the injectors?

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

grouunds arent going to majically make your car work. is it a stick ? did you damage the timing ring at all ? even one tooth bent will cause a no start

Jake95maxxi

Yea, it's 5spd. And no, no damage. But even if something is damaged, it still needs a spark to start. Power is getting to the plug wires, just no spark.

cashoit

if power is getting to the wires and no spark then check the coils and harness, cam and both CKPS

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

i disagree.

try adding another ground from the neg terminal to the bell housing.

let me ask you, is it popping? backfiring? anything else when you try to start it?

Jake95maxxi

Yes, it does 'pop' sometimes when i crank it. I just thought that was because my y-pipe isnt bolted on yet. What does that mean? So your saying run a wire from the negative batt terminal to the bell housing? Where at exactly?

I replaced all my coils with the ones from my old engine(because it cranked just fine) I also switched out the sensors too. No difference.

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

ok HOW exactly are you checking for spark?

Jake95maxxi

By taking the plug out and putting it back into the coil, grounding it, and then cranking.

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

Man I'm dealing with the same thing right now, except my problem is no spark to just 2 cylinders. Come to find out I have a break in my engine harness somewhere, so Im running a new harness of just the signal wires to the coils.

Jake95maxxi

Ah man that sucks. I would consider my harness is messed up but it worked fine with my old engine, and I'm getting power to my plug wires. Hope you figure it out.

andrewbrochill

exactly what i was going to say worked for me and i know alot of other dudes on here did the same

Jake95maxxi

I'm going to add a ground to be bell housing tomorrow and see what happens. And I did sand it good.

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

Don'tt rule out a harness issue. Like has been said those 4th gen harnesses are prone to breaking. Plus since the motor has been pulled and the harness had moved all around it would not surprise me if a couple wires broke inside.

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

Exactly. My harness was fine before pulling the engine out too. I was extra careful and didnt touch the harness with the engine at all. The only time it was disturbed was bending it over out of the way.

Jake95maxxi

Really? Daum man that sucks. I moved it just to put the engine in. So you guys think that may have happened? Is there anyway to figure out that for sure if thats it?

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

Just by doing voltage/continuity tests or taking the harness apart and visually checking it.

Jake95maxxi

Whats the best way to check the voltage of all of them?

MAX/GTR

iTrader: (7)

Had the same issue awhile back after a motor swap down to the popping sound, checked and chained everything and it ended up being the ECU I don't know how when it worked fine with the old motor but I swapped that and it started right up. If all else fails give that a shot.

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

Check the 2 ECU ground wires where do u have it grounded to?

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

Maxima 4D you are completely wrong. A good ground is essential especially when his issues appears to be electrical. If the 2 wires for ur ECU aren't grounded your motor isn't going to fire up. Have you connected an OBDII reader and try cranking it? This may help close a circuit and help diagnose a ground issue as it did for my 2K swap