infii30owner

hi

am having exact same issue as you mentioned below. i am original owner of 98 i30 with 150k miles. i recently had fuel injection service at a shop. the mech also cleaned a bit of throttle body at the flap and few inches inside. i felt like its lot smoother at idle. but now this new problem. doesn't sound like coils. i have replaced all coils and spark plugs (NGK platinum) 2 years ago.

it doesn't shake in the morning when i start. after driving for say 10 miles i can see this happening. with parking brake on and transmission in drive, i open the hood and i can see just the TB intake shake every 2 or 3s.

is it possible that injectors have gone bad as you suggest. gosh this car is giving me lot of troubles. just last week both battery and alternator broke. spent over $500 in last 4 weeks.

mileage is terribly low. there are no codes and no check engine light.

thanks for help

maxed_out_99

is your performance not what it used to be?

the first thing that comes to my mind is the knock sensor (common problem and a beotch to replace)

infii30owner

yes, before i replaced coils, spark plugs, i had bad knock sensor and coil misfire. i got a knock sensor from ebay for like $30 or something. i'm not sure how reliable that is. which i never replaced. before all these issues i used to get avg of 23-25 city/hwy combined and over 28 if pure highway.

that is interesting. would a knock sensor cause such shake? before fuel injection service i had rough idling but not this bad shaking/thunking.

maxed_out_99

it could i know it pulls timing and increases the injector pulse width (on time)

its not set in stone just a suggestion since you already replaced it that may not be your problem

check resistance on your injectors. how many miles?

oh and clean your maf

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

A bad knock sensor will give you reduced gas mileage and power, but it won't have any effect on idle smoothness. Something else is the problem.


...

infii30owner

few months ago, i put a half can of sea foam in oil. could that have messed up something? guess i'll have to take it to a shop and let them see

CautiousDriver

iTrader: (2)

SBKMax96
i thank you for describing your problem cause that's what i've been trying to find out myself but i guess was not as fortunate as you because perhaps of my time constraints and my shakng "tug" is precisely the same, the only thing that changed which started this thing was the new rails when i installed the 00vi. now i'm thinking injectors is the only things i didnt change or check. question to you , how did you check them. also did that fix your problem?

surban1

iTrader: (17)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolff2012
This could be just dry rotted engine mount.

+1

especially if you have a gle with the electronically "controlled" front mount. if you do, test it per the fsm ec343-345

rvalente

Hi Guys,

I own a Maxima 98. today I did 2 things in the car :

1st - Removed the IACV for complete cleanup as the ECU gives me the P0505 code.
2nd - Removed the ATF oil from the Auto Gearbox ( it came in brown color with smell "like" gasoline ) and put another 5qt back of Dexron III / Mercon/ Allison C-4 Mineral ( Red Color )

The Problem now is :

I`ve tried to clean the ECU codes turning it clockwise until it stop and back counterclockwise 2 times ( no code cleared ),so, never mind.. continuing... After I got the highway I felt some very strange vibration, only when the Overdrive engages, on 1st,2nd and D3 all ok, but the Overdrive when it engages it stay giving some vibrations, strange "tugs" when keep accelerating... Once in the city I could also feel when stopped in the red light in D the same behavior of the vibration like the Overdrive.

Even with the car is at 2500 rpm @ 60Mph and I put in N and accelerates to the same RPM that the car was on Overdrive, I can`t feel any shaking, then I put back to D, the car put on D3 and then some seconds the Overdrive engages and the shake starts again.

Someone can let me know what can I do to diagnose or let me know if I did something wrong on the oil change? Maybe the Oil type? Syntetic??

Thanks!!!

fuzz58287

could it be bad fuel injectors?

rvalente

So, It maybe can make a sense... coz today I add a STP Injector Cleaner in 10 gallons of GAS ( 87 ).

I should try to use premium ( 91 ) or Podium ( 95 ) gasoline and give a try.

It strange as the car reacts perfect in all rpm in 1,2 and 3rd gear, only starts to vibrates in Overdrive or in D when it is stopped on a Red Light, and by the way, after I turn it on this morning the car just stalled when doing a normal garage maneuver... never it happen...

Another thing that I did was clean the MAF sensor, but, if the MAF is not correct will do problem only on Idle D and Overdrive??? this does not make any sense...

So, let me know your concerns please!

Best Regards!

Rafael Valente

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Rafael. It sounds like a torque converter going out since you mentioned that it's only when you hit Overdrive on your shifter. Check your codes for anything new that might pop up.

As far as your car shutting off while just doing something as simple as moving your car can cause it to turn off if your MAF isn't connected, or responding correctly. Did you clean the sensor inside, and not the terminals with MAF cleaner? It never hurts to double check.

- Axel
Nope. I have an SE and the front motor mount has been disconnected since about half a year ago now. Haven't had issues because of it.
I checked the injectors both visually and electronically with a multimeter, and there is one more method that you could try that's a bit unorthodox but can give you a straight answer, and that is to pull your UIM off, and with the rails off, but not unplugged by the hoses, give your engine a crank to see which injector sprays and which doesn't.

I checked the injector terminals as per the FSM, which I think should read between 10-11ohms at 68*F but I don't want you to try anything radical unless you're up for it, and if you still need help I can take a look at my Haynes manual tomorrow or you could just go to the FSM right here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/ download the manual you need (to make things easier) and follow the steps that WE'RE capable of doing, and not a Nissan Tech

Also, I installed the 01VI on my car, and it hasn't stopped it, but, it's minimal now, so I might have to replace all 6 coil packs for brand new ones by march at the latest.

Best of luck to you, and if you still need help, PM me or let me know of what assistance I can be of to you.

-Axel
Did you change your oil within the first 30-50 miles after doing so?... You shouldn't leave seafoam in for more than 100 miles. Just giving you a heads up

-Axel
You mentioned that you had a shop do your injectors. Are you getting a gasoline smell in the bay? And literally pouring out from the exhaust? If your injectors were good then it could be something as simple as a o-ring from one of the injectors sitting improperly on the rail... Believe me, I didn't realize it until it was almost too late.

Check your o-rings and injectors by using the manual, and making sure that the o-rings are still in good condition; not cracked or seized on the injector tip, by viewing them from the bottom of the fuel rail (the side that goes down into the Lower intake manifold) and also check the grommets from the injectors on the LIM by making sure the groove is facing upward towards the injectors, and not downward into the LIM.

Best of luck to you!

- Axel
Both IACV and TB are in EXCELLENT condition! (minus the issue of them having 120k on them )

Both are from a 5th gen since I went over and swapped the VI into my engine.



UPDATE:::::

So the problem is now minimal to non-existent. I am close to just saying hello to a new engine with low miles and new sensors, coils, injectors, and wires, since the problem still persists, and have somehow lost power with the VI swap

All in all, I am very glad that I did the swap and that the problem went almost completely away since it was done, but I will have to start investing my money into a new engine, or possibly first, new coil packs, fresh from the dealer with the year warranty, to first rule out the problem before I go gaga for a new engine.

Sorry for the late thread replies guys!

Maxima 97 SE

I had the same exact for a long time and just fixed today. Your engine shakes because the idle in drive or reverse is too low. Theres probably nothing with any of your sensor or coils. To fix I had to set my idle from the ecu by turning the screw to the desired idle. Move the screw clockwise a little and then put the car in drive or reverse to see where your idle is at if its too low move it somemore and if too high move it counterclockwise. Now this fixed my 97 maxima se and in park the car idles at 700 and drive 700. No more shaking. The car feels like it not even on at all.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

^^^

Yeah.... I already fixed that problem. Seems to me like I would OVERLOOK a simple fix like the idle screw on the IACV... O.o


I never addressed the issue, but it was bad coil packs and faulty platinum plugs. I've been on coppers ever since and now without issues, other than having to replace them every other oil change to keep them fresh and at peak performance.


Moral of the story, maintenance before mods

Shehzad Ismail

Hello SandyMax96!

I have a 95 Max and am having the same issue. I got a new valve cover gasket, spark plugs and fuel filter. I also cleaned out the MAF. For 2 weeks the car ran beautifully. Now its jerking worse than ever! (It used to jerk before but never this bad). I have no codes.

I was thinking of replacing coil packs, MAF and injectors. I can do the Ohm test for the front injectors to see if something is off. When you swapped out the injector, did it help? Is your car running perfectly now?

If it's coil packs how, is there a way I can check which ones are bad? Or even MAF?

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

Hi. I'm terribly sorry for replaying so late. But let's see what I can help you with.

For both injectors, and coil packs, you're going to have to perform a sound check/feel test.

For coil packs, unplug the harness for each, one at a time and see if you notice a change in engine idle as you do so. It'll slow down or stutter a bit.

Injectors, same thing as coils, but it can also be "good" but not spray/click. Use a phillips and listen for clicking. I know this may sound weird, but place the metal piece on top of the injector cap, and use your ear, like a stethoscope to listen for rapid but pulsing clicking. Also, check to see that they have their pintles on (orange/yellow caps at the bottom of the injectors that impede the small o-ring from falling off) because that can cause your injector flow to malfunction.... drastically (I was getting 8mpg with 2 broken injectors once). If you do this method, take off all the UIM and accessories and unbolt the fuel rail and carefully pry it off and check the bottom of all injectors.

There really isn't a true "ohm/volt" test for either injectors or coil packs, at least not in my experience. If a coil pack is done, the other 2 on that bank are sure to follow. My suggestion is to stock up on coil packs from the JY (junkyard) or straight from the dealership if you don't want to trial and error with JY ones. Injectors, same case, only you need to be very careful not to break the pintle that's at the bottom of each one when you snag them.

I hope that helps some man.



- Axel

kctyphoon101

no a MAF sensor will not always throw a code, and many times YOU CANNOT use a muliti meter to test it as it can still test good.
if you have problems at idle - BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE - just open the hood and unplug the MAF sensor completely. with the sensor DISCONNECTED, start your car. if your idle is back to normal and the car idles good, THEN YOUR MAF IS BAD. the car will not respond to throttle response with the MAF unplugged, so you cant drive it but it will answer your question.

best thing to do IMO if the maf is bad it buy a used OEM on ebay. you can buy one for $50.


when coil packs go bad, you will normally feel a studder or bump while driving, or stopped at a red light. this will also NOT throw a code, because the coil is shorting out, but still firing - even though it is a misfire the ecu cannot tell the difference. easy way to check is by changing them one coilpack at a time with one you know is good and see if there is a differece. most often the car will have to be warm before you notice the "bump" from a bad pack. the car will idle and drive normal when cold.