interior lights don't work
#1
interior lights don't work
I installed the dome, door, & map LED lights that I had ordered (tigersharkdude had sent me links where I could order them off of ebay). I successfully installed the dome and door ones, and I installed one of the map ones and all 3 of these worked. While I was installing the other one, I think I might've heard some kind of electrical crackling, not sure if it's in my mind. Anyways, the second light just wouldn't turn on. And then i looked around and realized that the map and door lights stopped working.....wtf? did i blow a fuse? whats the deal? what fuse would it be? and ive never replaced a fuse before...do I just pull it out w/ my fingers and put a new one in? Dash lights, odometer, etc. all still work.
Last edited by tarun900; 07-22-2011 at 02:45 PM.
#2
I installed the dome, door, & map LED lights that I had ordered (tigersharkdude had sent me links where I could order them off of ebay). I successfully installed the dome and door ones, and I installed one of the map ones and all 3 of these worked. While I was installing the other one, I think I might've heard some kind of electrical crackling, not sure if it's in my mind. Anyways, the second light just wouldn't turn on. And then i looked around and realized that the map and door lights stopped working.....wtf? did i blow a fuse? whats the deal? what fuse would it be? and ive never replaced a fuse before...do I just pull it out w/ my fingers and put a new one in? Dash lights, odometer, etc. all still work.
It's not uncommon to blow that fuse when changing a bulb...I did it when changing one of my map lights.
Also, it's easy to tell if the fuse is blown. When you take it out, look at it to see if the metal wire in it is in tact. If it's blown, it will be broken.
#3
Went out and took a quick picture of mine for you.
The label is "Room L"... number 26, top row, middle column (I highlighted it in red for you). The row in the right has four spares and your puller. If you use the spare to replace the interior one, I'd replace the spare just so you have it if you really need it in a pinch, but that's just me.
Sorry about the lousy cell phone camera quality.
The label is "Room L"... number 26, top row, middle column (I highlighted it in red for you). The row in the right has four spares and your puller. If you use the spare to replace the interior one, I'd replace the spare just so you have it if you really need it in a pinch, but that's just me.
Sorry about the lousy cell phone camera quality.
#5
You can do that...since it's not between two, it's not as difficult for that one. The other thing you can do is use a pair of needle-nose pliers, but DON'T use much force or you'll break the fuse with the pliers...just enough to have grip on it to pull it. It's not the best way, but if you can't quite pull it out with your hands, it'll work.
#6
You can do that...since it's not between two, it's not as difficult for that one. The other thing you can do is use a pair of needle-nose pliers, but DON'T use much force or you'll break the fuse with the pliers...just enough to have grip on it to pull it. It's not the best way, but if you can't quite pull it out with your hands, it'll work.
I replaced the fuse, whala! Lights worked. Unfortunately, I blew out the spare as well lol. Ended up going to a local hardware shop and buying two (one to use and a spare). Just left the dome lights alone for now...haven't found a good way to set up the LED panel for that. Hmm...
#7
I ended up using a flat head screwdriver....probably not the best idea but I have big hands/fingers and trying to do it that way just wasn't working lol.
I replaced the fuse, whala! Lights worked. Unfortunately, I blew out the spare as well lol. Ended up going to a local hardware shop and buying two (one to use and a spare). Just left the dome lights alone for now...haven't found a good way to set up the LED panel for that. Hmm...
I replaced the fuse, whala! Lights worked. Unfortunately, I blew out the spare as well lol. Ended up going to a local hardware shop and buying two (one to use and a spare). Just left the dome lights alone for now...haven't found a good way to set up the LED panel for that. Hmm...
#9
Man, these LED's are so ****ing bright!! Cool white...I made the mistake of staring at the dome one for like 2 seconds....I have a headache now. Do all of you with LED's feel this same thing? Please don't make the mistake of looking directly at the light lol. I'm almost debating changing the color from cool white to something else....I guess I just have to get used to it being so damn bright? Wow.
#10
Ok, well it's gonna keep blowing the fuse. Too much amperage. Either way what ever u do, do NOT put a higher rated fuse in there. You could end up burning up the wires.
EDIT: ok nvm then my bad it was a short.
EDIT: ok nvm then my bad it was a short.
Last edited by T-Mon3y; 07-22-2011 at 07:49 PM.
#11
I blew the fuses because I think I touched part of the metal w/ the metal in the car and shorted it. Otherwise, it was working fine. My eyes still kind of hurt from looking directly at the dome LED from like 6 inches away. wow.
#14
#17
Fuse is good but replaced it anyway and same problem gauges don't light up at all same goes for the gear shifter and manual climate control. I'm starting to think dimmer switch is fried somehow but these don't have a high failure rate. Any suggestions guys ?
#18
Wow thanks my fuse went out for the same reason lol. I guess using LED for the dome isn't the best idea :/ but now after changing the fuse all my lights but the dome light has turned back on. The only way the dome light turns on is if I turn it to the on switch.
#19
To start with, there are a couple of lights that run off the same fuse as the dash lights but do not go through the dimmer switch. They are the ash tray light, the glovebox light and the 2 vanity mirror lights in the sun visors. If these lights illuminate, then its not looking too good for the dimmer switch.
Pop the dimmer switch out of the dash and you will see 3 wires on the back:
The blue/yellow stripe wire has 12 volts from the fuse on it.
The solid black wire is ground.
The red/yellow stripe wire is the variable voltage going to the light bulbs.
Get a voltmeter and do some checking. These first two tests are to preserve your sanity. 1 - measure between chassis ground and the black ground wire on the switch. Continuity means you have a good ground connection to the switch. 2 - measure the voltage between ground and the blue/yellow stripe wire. A reading of 12 volts means that the fuse is good AND that you remembered to turn the parking lights on.
Now measure the voltage between ground and the red/yellow stripe wire. Turn the wheel on the dimmer switch and observe the voltage. The voltage on the red/yellow wire can be anything from zero to 12 volts depending on the wheel position. If you don't get a changing voltage level, then the switch is bad.
Last edited by DennisMik; 08-30-2011 at 07:53 PM.
#21
Make sure that the fuse you put in is good. You can get bad ones. Do you have any lights at all? Like I said earlier, you should have the ash tray, clock and glove box lights even if the dimmer is bad.
If you have absolutely no lights, then you need to check fuse # 66 that is in the fuse block under the hood between the battery and the fender. The cover has the fuse labeled "TAIL" for tail lights. If your tail lights work, then fuse #66 is good.
From fuse #66, the power goes to the headlight switch. when the headlight switch is turned on, the power goes to fuse #18 that has been discussed above.
So the next step is to get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts being present at the dimmer switch. Pop it out of the dash check the blue/yellow stripe wire for 12 volts on it when the headlight switch is on.
Depending on what you find, determines what to do next. Check these things and let us know.
If you have absolutely no lights, then you need to check fuse # 66 that is in the fuse block under the hood between the battery and the fender. The cover has the fuse labeled "TAIL" for tail lights. If your tail lights work, then fuse #66 is good.
From fuse #66, the power goes to the headlight switch. when the headlight switch is turned on, the power goes to fuse #18 that has been discussed above.
So the next step is to get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts being present at the dimmer switch. Pop it out of the dash check the blue/yellow stripe wire for 12 volts on it when the headlight switch is on.
Depending on what you find, determines what to do next. Check these things and let us know.
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