Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
07-06-2011, 08:35 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: IN
Posts: 203
Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
Had a growling noise directly associated with speed. Gradually got worse. went away when turning one direction, louder with other. Put on lift and came to the conclusion that the drivers rear wheel bearing was bad. The bearing and hub come assembled.
Because i have ABS i could not find one aftermarket, i order one below for non-ABS. It was WAY cheaper than anything else (i paid like $45 with shop discount). The fit against the spindle was perfect, the size was dead on, stud holes were right.
BUT! the machining where the abs tone ring is supposed to be pressed on is too loose. very tight not not nearly tight enough. Seeing as i could not get the right part for any reasonable price i decided to epoxy the tone ring to the hub. The FSM tells you it needs to be about 13 mm from the end of the bearing, this measured about right to where the ring sat on the old bearing. i cleaned it up and epoxied it i used 4 13mm headed bolts to keep the distance precise.
Bolted all back on, eveything works fine, and nice and quiet to boot. Thought somebody might be able to benefit from this experience.
405.42001E is the part number for my 99 se
http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpag...K/40542001.jpg
brand is centric, or ctek
Good luck,
Chris
Because i have ABS i could not find one aftermarket, i order one below for non-ABS. It was WAY cheaper than anything else (i paid like $45 with shop discount). The fit against the spindle was perfect, the size was dead on, stud holes were right.
BUT! the machining where the abs tone ring is supposed to be pressed on is too loose. very tight not not nearly tight enough. Seeing as i could not get the right part for any reasonable price i decided to epoxy the tone ring to the hub. The FSM tells you it needs to be about 13 mm from the end of the bearing, this measured about right to where the ring sat on the old bearing. i cleaned it up and epoxied it i used 4 13mm headed bolts to keep the distance precise.
Bolted all back on, eveything works fine, and nice and quiet to boot. Thought somebody might be able to benefit from this experience.
405.42001E is the part number for my 99 se
http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpag...K/40542001.jpg
brand is centric, or ctek
Good luck,
Chris
07-06-2011, 09:46 PM
#4
You should know that brakes and wheel bearings are very close to one another and get very warm during operation. The heat from the rotor is sufficient to turn that glue back to goo.
I wouldn't count on that epoxy to hold for very long. Good idea though, just be prepared for the result.
I wouldn't count on that epoxy to hold for very long. Good idea though, just be prepared for the result.
07-07-2011, 03:44 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: IN
Posts: 203
i considered that. the tone ring is only along for the ride, no pressure at all. either way if the wheel bearing gets that hot, all of the grease will melt out.
ill try to remember to update again in a few months if all is going well
Chris
ill try to remember to update again in a few months if all is going well
Chris
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