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So it's not a coil pack....it's much much worse...F Me!

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Old 06-01-2011, 04:04 PM
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So it's not a coil pack....it's much much worse...F Me!

Pulled some codes a while back.

6 slows and 5 fast (0605) Cylinder 4 misfire
2 slows and 1 fast (0201) Ignition coil and power transistor
3 slows and 4 fast (0304) Knock sensor

After pulling that madness, I got myself a coil pack, 6 new platinum plugs, a knock sensor and a fuel filter for shyts and giggles.

After dropping my rig off hoping these goodies would make her right as rain, they didn't. Popped the coil pack in and 6 plugs and nope. Mech did a compression test and it was low as *****. Could have bad valves or rings he said. For all that it takes to fix that, might as well get a new motor, he added. shyt...really? Hmmm.

Any idea's as to what else it could be before I start exploring shyt canning the car for parts or getting a new motor (which I'm not to keen on, as I'd just rather get another car with AWD as I live in snow country)

thanks for any help or insights you can provide me with.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:27 PM
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Get w second opinion on compression or do it yourself. If its low, the first mechanical is correct. Low comp is rings or valves. Either way, its cheaper to get a motor.
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:05 PM
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Roger that. 2nd compression test on the order. If it fails again though....guess it'll be time for a little soul searching. All in all the car is in great shape.

What do you y'all suppose I can get for her in this state if I don't wanna go down the new motor road?
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:56 PM
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milage?
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:38 PM
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A for sale sign
It's really not worth it IMO
3.5 swap da biotch
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackwind
milage?
Bout to turn 150K
Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
A for sale sign
It's really not worth it IMO
3.5 swap da biotch
Yup, could 3.5 that ish but would it be worth it? Not up here. The stock torque right now is good in the winter. Beef it up, it'll be too much up front and might as well get an AWD drive, which by the way, I'm craving like a ****. say either in the form of a subaru legacy GT or an infiniti g X.
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:22 PM
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Screw compression test, I would do a leakdown test.
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ef9
Screw compression test, I would do a leakdown test.
Can you further explain please
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:55 AM
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Oh and after said leak test would I basically arrive at the same conclusion (that I need a new motor) or could it be something else?
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:10 AM
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find a used motor for 300 or 400. Drop it in for another 200-300. Boom 600 bucks u back on the road with a younger motor.

Whats the problem here???
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:51 AM
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A leakdown test will tell you whether its the rings or valves. Either way a used engine will be cheaper. You will be paying more diagnostic to get more info than u need.
Low comp=new engine
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by VTonmymind
Mech did a compression test and it was low as *****.
Numbers?
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Old 06-02-2011, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by VTonmymind
Bout to turn 150K

Yup, could 3.5 that ish but would it be worth it? Not up here. The stock torque right now is good in the winter. Beef it up, it'll be too much up front and might as well get an AWD drive, which by the way, I'm craving like a ****. say either in the form of a subaru legacy GT or an infiniti g X.
mmmm legacy GT what year?
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:03 PM
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When doing the compression test, squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, if it helps then its bad rings (oil seals them a little when you squirt it in). To check if its the valves, whichever cylinder your checking, spin the motor so the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (cylinder is top dead center) and put some pressure in the cyl through the spark plug hole. If you hear air leaking through the intake then the intake valve/s are bad, if you hear the air leaking through the exhaust then the exhaust valve/s are bad.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:04 AM
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Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Numbers?
right around 25. Low as *****.
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
mmmm legacy GT what year?
kinda warming up to the new gens (10 and 11) but can't go wrong with 2005-2009
Originally Posted by IslandMax
When doing the compression test, squirt some oil into the spark plug hole, if it helps then its bad rings (oil seals them a little when you squirt it in). To check if its the valves, whichever cylinder your checking, spin the motor so the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (cylinder is top dead center) and put some pressure in the cyl through the spark plug hole. If you hear air leaking through the intake then the intake valve/s are bad, if you hear the air leaking through the exhaust then the exhaust valve/s are bad.
very helpful, thank you

Originally Posted by ef9
Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.
how much do you reckon replacing the heads would cost?
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by VTonmymind
kinda warming up to the new gens (10 and 11) but can't go wrong with 2005-2009

very helpful, thank you


how much do you reckon replacing the heads would cost?
too much. work. time. money.

New VQ.

Just drop in a new 3.0 with something like 20-100K and call it a day.

I'm going to be doing a compression test soon here.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her...
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:27 AM
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I'm sure you can get some decent heads for $200 or less.

Swap them in yourself, save you a ton of cash.
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:09 PM
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I think I may be straight up done with her. Had her for a good 6 years and she has done real good for me. Have been wanting to get into something new though ever since moving back up to VT.

So...if I were to sell her straight up..what do you suppose would be a fair price to ask for her?
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ef9
Just do a leakdown test. If it's the valve seals, just replace the heads, you don't need to replace the entire motor.
Not cost effective. Replacing the motor is easier and cheaper than doing a valve job or even head gaskets on a VQ. That means more down time and work for the DIYer, and more money (hours) at a shop. Gaskets are expensive from what Ive seen, a machine shop will have to re-cut the seats in the head, and dress or replace the valves. Not cheap. A lower mileage motor is $450.00 tops.
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ef9
I'm sure you can get some decent heads for $200 or less.

Swap them in yourself, save you a ton of cash.
Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
Plus gaskets $287.73 from courtesy, NOT WORTH IT!!
You also have to drop the oil pan, pull the outer timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, and inner cover.

Thats if the rings are good.

Last edited by asand1; 06-04-2011 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 06-11-2011, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by FallenOne
too much. work. time. money.

New VQ.

Just drop in a new 3.0 with something like 20-100K and call it a day.

I'm going to be doing a compression test soon here.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her...
How much of a plug and play is the VQ 3.0?
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Old 06-11-2011, 05:45 AM
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Stupid question..sorry..meant to refer to the 2000-2001 A33 DE-K motor v. our DE.
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FallenOne
.. I think 430K miles is all mine's got in her...
DAMN
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