Nismotic

iTrader: (25)

Just to start, I'm not a dealer nor do I endorse this product (and I don't get any residues or anything to that nature) but I came across a performance brake setup for my M35x and it has worked out very well for myself and a lot of M owners (i'm also on Nicoforums.)

The link below is for brakemotive cross drilled & slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads. I had the oem setup and kept having "pulsating while braking" issues along with squealing from time to time. I did a lot of research on these guys and for the price, it has been worth the 160 bucks shipped.

I googled and researched it, along with researching on the M forum and a lot of guys came up with positive results.


This setup, from what I read, is more so for daily driving and NOT RACING/TRACK setup.


So for those that do not want to spend 1200+ for the BBK, this is a great alternative.

You can install them yourselves, or have it done for about 100 bucks. They have very quick shipping and have excellent customer service (from what I read, I haven't had to call them yet.)

I've had them on my M for about 600 miles and the braking has improved DRAMATICALLY. The pulsating is gone, the vibration and squealing is gone. Some of the other M guys have used it for thousands of miles and haven't had any problems.

I figured I'd share this with everyone. You know that Nissans/Infinitis have pretty crappy OEM brake setup, so this is an alternative.


Good luck everyone.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Drill...Q5fAccessories

98MaximaDriver

iTrader: (8)

I just got rotors and pads!! Maybe next time..

I went with blanks maybe next go around these get the go ahead, zinc coated too.. and good price!!! Never heard of "brakemotive" tho.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Wow, that's a pretty good price for that set up.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

hows the brake dust on the wheels ?? i've noticed the pulsating feeling even after i put a new caliper on and brembo/acebono premiums in the front, and brembos in the rear. all blanks.

cashoit

i had ceramics and they would squeal man. are these better?

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

i'm on my 2nd set of ceramics, never had a squealing problem

Nismotic

iTrader: (25)

I don't have any squealing problem whatsoever. I know it's tough to see a setup so cheap work so well, especially from ebay. But I've had nothing but good experiences with this setup

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

yeah, but on a much newer car, and a totally different car. my whips 16+ years old and i think the ms is losing pressure so the brakes still work, but pedal wise i think the ms is the reason for the pulsation.

Nismo95Max

iTrader: (6)

good lookin out man, this is a great setup that i am actually going to try.. ill let everyone else know my opinions as well..

Ninety9gle

I actually have this setup on my 4g. I don't know if u saw them at the v forge meet, but I luv them.

j-dawg

I sometimes feel like the 4th-gen forum's resident brake upgrade skeptic, but something in me feels compelled to post in every thread about how installing brake upgrades is an act of self-deception that will lead to less reliable and none-more-effective brake performance. In this case I dunno, 'cause you're talking about issues with warping, but I will maintain my skepticism regarding the drilled rotors.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

slotted, not drilled is the way to go from what i've been told. putting holes in the rotors does'nt serve a porpose. less mass to asorb heat dispursion, good for looks only.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Warped Rotors? That's not really what's going on, this is worth reading.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

cashoit

good read nj.

Since we talking brakes...

The article brought up an interesting point about brake fluid overboiling and what not. Im pretty sure my car brakes havent been bled in a long time.

Does anyone have a recommendation for how often to replace the brake fluid?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Points to ponder;
Slotting still removes mass.
Drilling evacuates gasses associated with fade to the center of the rotor where centrifugal force and vanes create a vacuum.

OTH, drilling CAN cause cracking. Drilling/slotting does nothing for performance, only reliability and longevity through cooling. Get blanks and ceramic bads, or do BBK, but only if your tires bite hard enough they dont already lock up.

IF I did autoX, I would get drilled rotors and el-cheapo pads. Upgrading the pads would come later if I thought I needed them.