How to Install a Block Heater in your 4th gen
#1
How to Install a Block Heater in your 4th gen
Yesterday I installed a block heater in my 96 5sp. I have searched the forums and there are a few threads asking about block heaters, but most people seem to think they are useless. Living in Montana, with days frequently being 20 degrees below 0 or lower, I decided that I didn't want it to take 20 mins for my car to warm up. Some members seemed to think that installing a block heater to aid in cold starting is only a "duct tape" solution to a bigger issue (such as needing a new battery, fuel issues, etc.). While other problems may contribute to cold starting issues, they should show up during normal starting conditions as well. All vehicles have more difficulty starting in cold weather. The oil is much thicker and doesn't lubricate as well, fuel doesn't vaporize as easily, clearances are bigger (thermal shrinking), etc. My car starts just fine all year round, but it is slightly more difficult in the winter. Anyway...here are some pictures and a brief writeup of how to install a block heater for those of you that live in a place cold enough to need/want one.
First you will need to purchase a block heater.
There are several options: 1. Block heater (installs in engine block and keeps radiator fluid warm) 2. Lower radiator hose heater (installs around hose and heats the hose at the bottom of the radiator). 3. Oil pan heater (often a magnetic heater that sticks to the bottom of the oil pan or can be a plug that replaces the oil pan drain plug.) 4. Oil dipstick heater (replaces your stock dipstick with a heating element).
Personally I prefer #1. It is a bit of a pain to install (as you will see in a moment), but it is permanent, out of the way, and heats the most thoroughly in my opinion. I searched for block heaters online, but wasn't able to find any that were maxima specific. I went to my local carquest and asked and they had one on the shelf for $47.70. The part number is XPT 3100007 and is made by Zerostart (package labeled "Engine Heater").
After you buy the block heater you will need: 22mm socket, 24mm socket, 1/2" drive rachet, bucket, and pipe thread tape (to ensure a good seal when installing the block heater).
Drain the radiator fluid into a bucket or something (I drained the radiator and still got wet when removing the plug, so have a bucket ready when you are removing the plug).
Use the 22mm socket to remove the engine freeze plug at the right front of the engine (as viewed from the driver's seat). It is located underneath the header just to the left of the y pipe (driver's view). It was extremely tight when I removed it. It was all I could do to get the first little turn. After that I slowly (normally 1-2 teeth on the rachet) removed it. There is very little room to move with the engine mount and the y pipe in the way. I would highly recommend a 3-4 inch extension (not too long or you will run into the radiator fans), but initially the torque required to break the plug loose may not allow the use of an extension. Here are a few pics of the removal/install.
Removal:
Use the 24mm socket and 3" extension to install the block heater. Once again, it takes a while to tighten it down. Don't forget the pipe thread tape before you start. You don't want to have to remove this b/c it is leaking.
Install:
It is a bit difficult to plug the cord into the block heater after you have it tightened down. I had some trouble. I'd recommend getting a friend with small hands . After plugging it in route the cord so it won't come into contact with the header. Last I checked those get a little warm sometimes . I chose to route it through the front engine mount. There were some holes that were perfect to slip the cord through and hold it in place. Then you can route the cord underneath the radiator and out to the front of the car.
Here are a few pictures of the package the block heater came in just in case you want to double check you're getting the right thing.
Packaging:
Hope this helps! Enjoy easier starting and faster warm ups with your maxima!
First you will need to purchase a block heater.
There are several options: 1. Block heater (installs in engine block and keeps radiator fluid warm) 2. Lower radiator hose heater (installs around hose and heats the hose at the bottom of the radiator). 3. Oil pan heater (often a magnetic heater that sticks to the bottom of the oil pan or can be a plug that replaces the oil pan drain plug.) 4. Oil dipstick heater (replaces your stock dipstick with a heating element).
Personally I prefer #1. It is a bit of a pain to install (as you will see in a moment), but it is permanent, out of the way, and heats the most thoroughly in my opinion. I searched for block heaters online, but wasn't able to find any that were maxima specific. I went to my local carquest and asked and they had one on the shelf for $47.70. The part number is XPT 3100007 and is made by Zerostart (package labeled "Engine Heater").
After you buy the block heater you will need: 22mm socket, 24mm socket, 1/2" drive rachet, bucket, and pipe thread tape (to ensure a good seal when installing the block heater).
Drain the radiator fluid into a bucket or something (I drained the radiator and still got wet when removing the plug, so have a bucket ready when you are removing the plug).
Use the 22mm socket to remove the engine freeze plug at the right front of the engine (as viewed from the driver's seat). It is located underneath the header just to the left of the y pipe (driver's view). It was extremely tight when I removed it. It was all I could do to get the first little turn. After that I slowly (normally 1-2 teeth on the rachet) removed it. There is very little room to move with the engine mount and the y pipe in the way. I would highly recommend a 3-4 inch extension (not too long or you will run into the radiator fans), but initially the torque required to break the plug loose may not allow the use of an extension. Here are a few pics of the removal/install.
Removal:
Use the 24mm socket and 3" extension to install the block heater. Once again, it takes a while to tighten it down. Don't forget the pipe thread tape before you start. You don't want to have to remove this b/c it is leaking.
Install:
It is a bit difficult to plug the cord into the block heater after you have it tightened down. I had some trouble. I'd recommend getting a friend with small hands . After plugging it in route the cord so it won't come into contact with the header. Last I checked those get a little warm sometimes . I chose to route it through the front engine mount. There were some holes that were perfect to slip the cord through and hold it in place. Then you can route the cord underneath the radiator and out to the front of the car.
Here are a few pictures of the package the block heater came in just in case you want to double check you're getting the right thing.
Packaging:
Hope this helps! Enjoy easier starting and faster warm ups with your maxima!
Last edited by Decimus Meridias; 02-09-2011 at 07:25 PM.
#5
#8
Ideally it would all be kept warm. I decided on the block heater instead of the magnetic oil pan heater b/c it is more permanent (don't have to take it off/put it on or worry about it being scraped off by not having a lot of clearance under our cars). I didn't choose the oil dipstick heater b/c I don't think that heats as well. If the block is warm, then the oil in the block will also be warm. The oil from the pan will then gradually warm up (quicker than it would've otherwise) as it flows through the already warm block when the car is started. Is it the best, no. Is it better than nothing, certainly. Hope this answers your question.
#10
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Nice write-up, I definitely worked on someones 4th or 5th gen that had a block heater on it, and I assumed it was factory installed, wonder what the price is from Nissan on the block heater?
#11
Blah ive owned maximas in MN for years and have never been left stranded in the cold. And has never failed to start.
But it would be nice to have a plug in for those real cold nights here.
But it would be nice to have a plug in for those real cold nights here.
#12
Mine doesn't have trouble starting either, but it makes it just slightly quicker and much much warmer.
#13
Don't use teflon tape. Its a straight metric thread that seals with a washer. The FSM called for RTV if anything. A straight thread will not benefit from teflon tape anyway, it doesn't get tighter as you go like a pipe plug does.
#16
Its all good. I'm surprised more people don't know about them, but then again I'm used to living where its cold and just about everyone has them. Yes you do plug it into an outlet. I normally leave it plugged in overnight. Plug it in when I'm done driving for the day and don't forget to unplug when I leave in the morning. A lot of people drag extension cords around with them in the morning lol. During the summer you just hide the ugly cord coming out of the front of the vehicle somewhere out of the way and leave it alone. The block heater will then just be a plug.
#19
So i bump this thread every year because the mods on the org don't feel this is a good enough writeup to be a sticky in the how tos. Anyway, hope this helps some more max owners stay a bit warmer this winter.
#20
going back to this, a battery blanket is way better than a block heater. that and a oil pan heater
biggest problem in extreme cold is your battery loses alot of cranking power from the cold, if you bring a warm battery from indoors in extreme cold there is no reason for a engine not to start. i had a 1300CCA batter in my Nissan Hardbody, it started in -50c last winter after sitting outside for over 8 hours. battery was in it as well, no battery blanket, block heater, nothing. people with brand new cars were stranded that day, but because of my battery off i went in my 25 year old crappy beater
main point is a battery blanket is better, plugs in like a block heater and keeps the battery warm. oil pain heater is another good idea to get the oil flowing more freely in the cold. you can get magnetic ones that stick to the oilpan but they can fly off on the highway so you have to install and reinstall it constantly. you can get permanent ones installed as well
biggest problem in extreme cold is your battery loses alot of cranking power from the cold, if you bring a warm battery from indoors in extreme cold there is no reason for a engine not to start. i had a 1300CCA batter in my Nissan Hardbody, it started in -50c last winter after sitting outside for over 8 hours. battery was in it as well, no battery blanket, block heater, nothing. people with brand new cars were stranded that day, but because of my battery off i went in my 25 year old crappy beater
main point is a battery blanket is better, plugs in like a block heater and keeps the battery warm. oil pain heater is another good idea to get the oil flowing more freely in the cold. you can get magnetic ones that stick to the oilpan but they can fly off on the highway so you have to install and reinstall it constantly. you can get permanent ones installed as well
#21
This really doesn't have anything to do with what you're saying. My car starts just fine sitting outside for days in -20 or colder weather...but my heater warms up much faster with this block heater plugged in. If you want a no hassle permanent heater then this is the way to go. If you have trouble starting, then fix your car, but if it already runs well then this makes it that much easier on your engine.
#23
Well I've had it like that for at least 3 years and no problems yet. I was a bit worried at first too, but it seems like the wire that came with the heater has a little bit different insulation than most cords. Either way it has held up to the heat quite well.
#24
Easier on the engine mechanics-that's the point
Excellent write-up Decimus. They were routinely used in MN where I grew up simply because it is much easier on the engine doing a warm start up vs being -15 or worse and having to start up. Obviously, the car will start easier also in the cold weather, but that wasn't our prime motivation. The freeze plug type worked great, much like yours except engines didn't have a dedicated, threaded hole in a boss in which to install the heater in. At least that's one improvement they have made. The lower radiator how ones work great also. You need to cut out a section of the hose and the heater inserts into the hose, then hose clamps go on each side of it---very effective, but possibly more subject to slight leaks, and make sure you have a very good radiator how. If i moved to central or eastern Oregon I would definitely use one. Thanks for the write up.
#26
Great writeup! I have installed a ton of these heaters as its truly needed here where we regularly see temps in the -40 range. One of the biggest hassles with these is the misinformation on heater fitments so thanks for including part #. To completely winterize for the extreme cold I would add two silicone heat pads using rtv one for oil pan and one for tranny, ensure antifreeze is mixed properly(we do a -60 mix) and a small battery trickle charger.
#27
Great writeup! I have installed a ton of these heaters as its truly needed here where we regularly see temps in the -40 range. One of the biggest hassles with these is the misinformation on heater fitments so thanks for including part #. To completely winterize for the extreme cold I would add two silicone heat pads using rtv one for oil pan and one for tranny, ensure antifreeze is mixed properly(we do a -60 mix) and a small battery trickle charger.
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