2.25 or 2.5 exhaust?
02-06-2011, 10:45 AM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 79
USIM = US Intake Manifold
It's the stock intake manifold that comes on our cars in the US.
As to your other questions, give more specifics about what you want.
For instance, I wanted performance, and I nice, loud tone, so I went with a Magnaflow straight-through muffler. But if you are wanting a quiet tone, go with the stock muffler.
Try to give us more of an idea what you expect and we can help you out a little better.
It's the stock intake manifold that comes on our cars in the US.
As to your other questions, give more specifics about what you want.
For instance, I wanted performance, and I nice, loud tone, so I went with a Magnaflow straight-through muffler. But if you are wanting a quiet tone, go with the stock muffler.
Try to give us more of an idea what you expect and we can help you out a little better.
02-06-2011, 12:03 PM
#42
When it comes to the GM LS series engines, I highly doubt it took them much deliberation to decide that a single 3" will make more power for them than a single 2.5" (the debate i'd find more likely is 3" vs 3.5"). Now when it comes to duals, it may be the case that on the more mild builds a dual 2.5" would turn out better than a dual 3", but in either case there is no reason to compare their results with ours aside from general concepts as there are many factors involved.
But like I said earlier, better for the Maxima community if us old timers were wrong about what we believed.
02-06-2011, 05:41 PM
#43
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@aackshun, what is a USIM?
And I appreciate everybodys input on this topic, it has helped me alot. I believe I will go with the 3" exhaust. Now comes the next question, what kind of muffler should I get because I'll be damned if I drive around ricing it up.
And as for headers, y pipe, and intake. should the intake be 2.5 and the rest be 3? or 2.5 everything except the catback? I have read somethings on here about guys haveing a large intake and it robbing them of power.
And while we are talking about 00VI and MEVI, is it a huge deal to do the swap or should I just save the money?
And I appreciate everybodys input on this topic, it has helped me alot. I believe I will go with the 3" exhaust. Now comes the next question, what kind of muffler should I get because I'll be damned if I drive around ricing it up.
And as for headers, y pipe, and intake. should the intake be 2.5 and the rest be 3? or 2.5 everything except the catback? I have read somethings on here about guys haveing a large intake and it robbing them of power.
And while we are talking about 00VI and MEVI, is it a huge deal to do the swap or should I just save the money?
The point I'm making is not to compare their results to ours. The debate is whether there are gains from going from 2.5 to 3". I've scoured over some threads over the years and found that thru those who have done the dynos, didn't find any gains with their engines.
But like I said earlier, better for the Maxima community if us old timers were wrong about what we believed.
But like I said earlier, better for the Maxima community if us old timers were wrong about what we believed.
The general rule that I've seen on other forums when I had other cars in the past was a 3" pipe worth of cross sectional area for every 300bhp (this does not mean 2.5" for 250, 2" for 200, cross sectional area is not synonymous with diameter). It seems to ring true here so far.
Last edited by sparks03max; 02-06-2011 at 08:07 PM.
02-06-2011, 08:05 PM
#44
The main reason to get a VI is to release the top end of your 3.0 motor, if you are like the majority of maxima owners you will spend very little time above 5k enjoying that extra power (which is why I have not done it yet).
Anyways the base of my 3" hypothesis is the mere fact that I have not seen an untuned VQ30(DE or DE-K) dyno above 200 ft/lbs.
Anyways the base of my 3" hypothesis is the mere fact that I have not seen an untuned VQ30(DE or DE-K) dyno above 200 ft/lbs.
02-06-2011, 10:37 PM
#45
lol, but i'm 2.5 with crush bends and a cheap-*** muffler,
alright OP, here's what you do:
- if you're staying stock - aftermarket y-pipe (equal length if you got the money), 2.25 catback
- mild performance (low boost or want more out of the N/A 3.0) - aftermarket y-pipe (equal length if you got the money), 2.5 catback, high flow cat (if you got the money)
- all out N/A or high boost - headers, equal length y-pipe (or "feed pipe" for turbo), high flow cat, 3" catback
and as always, mandrel bends are preferred
**this is just "IMO" and strictly performance oriented. different parameters need to be taken into account regarding sound**
02-06-2011, 11:12 PM
#46
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
USIM = US Intake Manifold
It's the stock intake manifold that comes on our cars in the US.
As to your other questions, give more specifics about what you want.
For instance, I wanted performance, and I nice, loud tone, so I went with a Magnaflow straight-through muffler. But if you are wanting a quiet tone, go with the stock muffler.
Try to give us more of an idea what you expect and we can help you out a little better.
It's the stock intake manifold that comes on our cars in the US.
As to your other questions, give more specifics about what you want.
For instance, I wanted performance, and I nice, loud tone, so I went with a Magnaflow straight-through muffler. But if you are wanting a quiet tone, go with the stock muffler.
Try to give us more of an idea what you expect and we can help you out a little better.
Well, I want performance (obviously lol). And a nice growl, none of that ricey raspy $#!t. For instance, if I'm in neutral and i give the gas a little push I growl and in idle a low humm can be heard. let me know if any of that makes sence.
And just a random question, but are canadian cars right hand drive? Cuz someone said my car was canadian but I think they are full of it.
02-07-2011, 01:34 AM
#47
Performance + Sound? I did not hear a mentioning of a budget here, so if one wants the best of both worlds, cattman 3" all the way (catback wise).
If you're under a budget, have a locally reccomended shop do it, it'll save you a little bit (but not that much though), what you would want is a good muffler (not something cheap) and a resonator over 20", with a combination of those two you'd get the best out of catback, if you still don't like the sound then work further upstream (cat wise, headers, etc.)
If you're under a budget, have a locally reccomended shop do it, it'll save you a little bit (but not that much though), what you would want is a good muffler (not something cheap) and a resonator over 20", with a combination of those two you'd get the best out of catback, if you still don't like the sound then work further upstream (cat wise, headers, etc.)
02-07-2011, 01:44 PM
#48
Performance + Sound? I did not hear a mentioning of a budget here, so if one wants the best of both worlds, cattman 3" all the way (catback wise).
If you're under a budget, have a locally reccomended shop do it, it'll save you a little bit (but not that much though), what you would want is a good muffler (not something cheap) and a resonator over 20", with a combination of those two you'd get the best out of catback, if you still don't like the sound then work further upstream (cat wise, headers, etc.)
If you're under a budget, have a locally reccomended shop do it, it'll save you a little bit (but not that much though), what you would want is a good muffler (not something cheap) and a resonator over 20", with a combination of those two you'd get the best out of catback, if you still don't like the sound then work further upstream (cat wise, headers, etc.)
otherwise good point,
02-07-2011, 09:07 PM
#49
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
As of right now the budget is undetermined because I should be getting a second job, and with taxes coming I hoping for a good return. If I don't get a second job then 400-500 is the budget, with a second job 700-800. And does anyone know how exhaust shops bend their pipes?
And also as of right now, I dont have a catalyic and the muffler is aftermarket (no idea the company, bought the car with this stuff on it)
And also as of right now, I dont have a catalyic and the muffler is aftermarket (no idea the company, bought the car with this stuff on it)
02-07-2011, 09:38 PM
#51
As of right now the budget is undetermined because I should be getting a second job, and with taxes coming I hoping for a good return. If I don't get a second job then 400-500 is the budget, with a second job 700-800. And does anyone know how exhaust shops bend their pipes?
And also as of right now, I dont have a catalyic and the muffler is aftermarket (no idea the company, bought the car with this stuff on it)
And also as of right now, I dont have a catalyic and the muffler is aftermarket (no idea the company, bought the car with this stuff on it)
02-07-2011, 11:23 PM
#52
As of right now the budget is undetermined because I should be getting a second job, and with taxes coming I hoping for a good return. If I don't get a second job then 400-500 is the budget, with a second job 700-800. And does anyone know how exhaust shops bend their pipes?
And also as of right now, I dont have a catalyic and the muffler is aftermarket (no idea the company, bought the car with this stuff on it)
And also as of right now, I dont have a catalyic and the muffler is aftermarket (no idea the company, bought the car with this stuff on it)
The only way I would say other wise is if you can have a 3" made for under $500, then I could see the few hundred $ of savings worth not having such an easy to bolt on system.
Yes please, AFAIK, Cattman is the first and only manufacturer of 3" catbacks for Maximas
02-08-2011, 08:48 PM
#54
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
I was looking online and found these. I figured if I measured out my exhaust and ordered what I needed, it might be more afforadable. What do you guys think?
http://store.airflo.com/exhaust-tubing.html
http://www.bassani.com/universal/tubing/
http://www.jcwhitney.com/mandrel-ben.../p2006247.jcwx
And does anyone know if I brought in a tube for an exhaust shop to bend, would they? cuz I found a site that sells straight piping
http://www.nextag.com/BORLA-30330-Tu...21/prices-html
http://store.airflo.com/exhaust-tubing.html
http://www.bassani.com/universal/tubing/
http://www.jcwhitney.com/mandrel-ben.../p2006247.jcwx
And does anyone know if I brought in a tube for an exhaust shop to bend, would they? cuz I found a site that sells straight piping
http://www.nextag.com/BORLA-30330-Tu...21/prices-html
Last edited by maxispeed; 02-08-2011 at 09:20 PM.
02-08-2011, 09:30 PM
#56
Still waiting on that UIM of yours...
Just take it to a locally recommended exhaust shop and see what they quote, what I say could be totally off in your situation.
At the HP/$ figures, it's probably one of the worst mods, but if you're looking for every ounce of performance out of your bolt ons, then it's a no brainer.
At the HP/$ figures, it's probably one of the worst mods, but if you're looking for every ounce of performance out of your bolt ons, then it's a no brainer.
Last edited by aackshun; 02-08-2011 at 09:32 PM.
02-09-2011, 04:24 PM
#57
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 22
Wow lots of opinions on the subject. Well lets think about the diameters like this. Try blowing out of a straw and then out of a paper towel roll. You will notice the air leaving the straw is moving at a faster velocity than the air leaving the paper towel roll.
Now when we apply these examples to the diameters of a car exhaust system they both remain true, in the sense that a 2.25 inch pipe will have the exhaust gases leaving the engine at a faster rate then a 2.5 inch. These faster moving gases actually promotes "scavenging", or basically draws air out of the engine more efficiently, and depending on valve timing draws intake air into the cylinders. This will give you good mid range torque while retaining a very good low and top end performance.
A larger diameter pipe will allow a greater volume of gas to exit the engine, although it will be moving slower if the engine is naturally aspirated. If the engine is turbocharged, or supercharged having a bigger diameter pipe is better. This is due to the fact that what ever method of boost you are using, a higher volume of air is being put into the engine, and thus this air must be evacuated as easily as possible. Turbo engines especially don't need to have back pressure behind the turbine, as this will lead to slow spool time.
Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
Now when we apply these examples to the diameters of a car exhaust system they both remain true, in the sense that a 2.25 inch pipe will have the exhaust gases leaving the engine at a faster rate then a 2.5 inch. These faster moving gases actually promotes "scavenging", or basically draws air out of the engine more efficiently, and depending on valve timing draws intake air into the cylinders. This will give you good mid range torque while retaining a very good low and top end performance.
A larger diameter pipe will allow a greater volume of gas to exit the engine, although it will be moving slower if the engine is naturally aspirated. If the engine is turbocharged, or supercharged having a bigger diameter pipe is better. This is due to the fact that what ever method of boost you are using, a higher volume of air is being put into the engine, and thus this air must be evacuated as easily as possible. Turbo engines especially don't need to have back pressure behind the turbine, as this will lead to slow spool time.
Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
02-09-2011, 09:04 PM
#58
trini, you are mostly correct. but... lol...
hook an air pump up to to the straw and the paper towel roll. i know it seems like overkill but here's why
1) the straw, while promoting increased velocity will at some point
begin to restrict flow as most engines don't operate at any single
speed.
2) by the same token the paper towel roll will allow increased flow but reduce velocity which will inhibit scavenging
the key here is to balance the two, find that compromise that works best for each engine.
like i said before:
*- 2.25" for stock replacement
*- 2.5" for performance
*- 3" for HIGH performance
hook an air pump up to to the straw and the paper towel roll. i know it seems like overkill but here's why
1) the straw, while promoting increased velocity will at some point
begin to restrict flow as most engines don't operate at any single
speed.
2) by the same token the paper towel roll will allow increased flow but reduce velocity which will inhibit scavenging
the key here is to balance the two, find that compromise that works best for each engine.
like i said before:
*- 2.25" for stock replacement
*- 2.5" for performance
*- 3" for HIGH performance
Last edited by mightyMax95; 02-09-2011 at 09:07 PM.
02-09-2011, 10:18 PM
#59
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 66
My Z and my old Integra were both boosted and I always went with a .5" larger diameter pipe when I installed the turbo's. I did 2.5" on the Acura and 3" on the 300z, but I would absolutely go with the larger diameter if you plan to boost, even if a little later
02-10-2011, 08:03 PM
#61
More air = more fuel, you can increase the size of your intake, but you can only make it so big before a piggy back is necessary because more than likely you'll be outside of the stock parameters for fuel adjustment.
I know my car is running rich so I can afford to lean it out a little, which is why I'm secretly searching for some intake mods...
I know my car is running rich so I can afford to lean it out a little, which is why I'm secretly searching for some intake mods...
02-11-2011, 02:37 PM
#63
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
I wish I did have the stock intake. The kid I bought it from had a SRI on it so I've been thinking about putting in a CAI. I might just keep the diameter it is now.
02-12-2011, 12:22 AM
#65
More air = more fuel, you can increase the size of your intake, but you can only make it so big before a piggy back is necessary because more than likely you'll be outside of the stock parameters for fuel adjustment.
I know my car is running rich so I can afford to lean it out a little, which is why I'm secretly searching for some intake mods...
I know my car is running rich so I can afford to lean it out a little, which is why I'm secretly searching for some intake mods...
02-12-2011, 10:58 AM
#66
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
02-12-2011, 02:09 PM
#67
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 238
Recharing K&N and alike products is the problem not when it is brand new.
New K&N and alike products are better than new regular paper products.
Recharged K&N and alike products are worst than new regular paper products.
Over oiled filter can damage the MAF. Even if it is perfectly reoiled there is trapped dust in the filter that can not be cleaned off.
Foam filter will have small foam partial coming off with trapped dust off the foam over time and will go into the engine.
Performance paper filter can not fully clean off the trapped dust.
Aftermarket filters will run around 40 bucks.
Minimize car problems and enjoy your ride. Stock air intake is a well balanced intake. With aftermarket intakes, noise can be an issue when taking frequent long trips.
Don’t buy a SS bpip and cut off the rear to replace with an OE and add a resonator.
New K&N and alike products are better than new regular paper products.
Recharged K&N and alike products are worst than new regular paper products.
Over oiled filter can damage the MAF. Even if it is perfectly reoiled there is trapped dust in the filter that can not be cleaned off.
Foam filter will have small foam partial coming off with trapped dust off the foam over time and will go into the engine.
Performance paper filter can not fully clean off the trapped dust.
Aftermarket filters will run around 40 bucks.
Minimize car problems and enjoy your ride. Stock air intake is a well balanced intake. With aftermarket intakes, noise can be an issue when taking frequent long trips.
Don’t buy a SS bpip and cut off the rear to replace with an OE and add a resonator.
02-12-2011, 03:36 PM
#68
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
Update on prices
Cheapest I found for stock pipe with resinator was $150. 3in $190 but I talked to a buddy of mine and he said his guy can do the stock for $50!!
The 3in I have to take the car in for him to see how he is going to bend it and I'll get the price then. Ill keep you guys updated
Last edited by maxispeed; 02-12-2011 at 03:50 PM.
02-13-2011, 04:49 PM
#69
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 238
i meant the catback instead of the bpipe. ws ypipe is good for the money not because it is from ws. it's because it is the cheapest out there. stick with oe direct fit with the rest. a complete set should be ~500. this setup should be good for at least 10 yrs. just be prepare if taking the aftermarket exhaust direction. good luck buddy.
02-14-2011, 01:13 AM
#70
Because you don't recall a 3" vs 2.5" NA dyno on the org doesn't mean it didn't happen. I can direct you to the threads pertaining to said dyno done by merlyn on a I/H/E untuned 3.5 of an aftermarket 2.5" vs a 3".
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...ft-lbs-10.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6241702-post29.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6249980-post34.html
Also, I gained roughly 1.5 MPH and .15 1/10ths in the 1/8th mile going from a 2.5" to a 3" setup. (best ET and trap from 8.42 and 84.10 to 8.24 and 85.42 at the same track with a worse DA on the faster runs and nearly identical '60 foots)
Now with that evidence shown, there has not been any dyno proof that I know of that the 3.0 will also see such gains. However, I do believe a full bolton and tuned 3.0 (especially with mevi or 00vi) would potentially see benefits.
When it comes to the GM LS series engines, I highly doubt it took them much deliberation to decide that a single 3" will make more power for them than a single 2.5" (the debate i'd find more likely is 3" vs 3.5"). Now when it comes to duals, it may be the case that on the more mild builds a dual 2.5" would turn out better than a dual 3", but in either case there is no reason to compare their results with ours aside from general concepts as there are many factors involved.
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...ft-lbs-10.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6241702-post29.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6249980-post34.html
Also, I gained roughly 1.5 MPH and .15 1/10ths in the 1/8th mile going from a 2.5" to a 3" setup. (best ET and trap from 8.42 and 84.10 to 8.24 and 85.42 at the same track with a worse DA on the faster runs and nearly identical '60 foots)
Now with that evidence shown, there has not been any dyno proof that I know of that the 3.0 will also see such gains. However, I do believe a full bolton and tuned 3.0 (especially with mevi or 00vi) would potentially see benefits.
When it comes to the GM LS series engines, I highly doubt it took them much deliberation to decide that a single 3" will make more power for them than a single 2.5" (the debate i'd find more likely is 3" vs 3.5"). Now when it comes to duals, it may be the case that on the more mild builds a dual 2.5" would turn out better than a dual 3", but in either case there is no reason to compare their results with ours aside from general concepts as there are many factors involved.
....I thought the samething b4 I bought and installed a 3" Cattman on my 2003 A/T.....that the 3" was gonna be too extreme in size....and i was gonna lose all my throttle response on the low side!!!! Well I was and still am stoked about how this exhaust awakens the beast in this engine....for instance rolling into the throttle (not flooring it) from a stand still will usually break my 245/40/18 tires loose just b4 the 1-2 gear shift!!!! It never did that with my 2.5" Cattman by just rolling into the throttle,..... It had to be floored!!!!!!!@aackshun, what is a USIM?
And I appreciate everybodys input on this topic, it has helped me alot. I believe I will go with the 3" exhaust. Now comes the next question, what kind of muffler should I get because I'll be damned if I drive around ricing it up.
And as for headers, y pipe, and intake. should the intake be 2.5 and the rest be 3? or 2.5 everything except the catback? I have read somethings on here about guys haveing a large intake and it robbing them of power.
And while we are talking about 00VI and MEVI, is it a huge deal to do the swap or should I just save the money?
And I appreciate everybodys input on this topic, it has helped me alot. I believe I will go with the 3" exhaust. Now comes the next question, what kind of muffler should I get because I'll be damned if I drive around ricing it up.
And as for headers, y pipe, and intake. should the intake be 2.5 and the rest be 3? or 2.5 everything except the catback? I have read somethings on here about guys haveing a large intake and it robbing them of power.
And while we are talking about 00VI and MEVI, is it a huge deal to do the swap or should I just save the money?
If you want to spend that much on a catback, just get the cattman.
The only way I would say other wise is if you can have a 3" made for under $500, then I could see the few hundred $ of savings worth not having such an easy to bolt on system.
Yes please, AFAIK, Cattman is the first and only manufacturer of 3" catbacks for Maximas
The only way I would say other wise is if you can have a 3" made for under $500, then I could see the few hundred $ of savings worth not having such an easy to bolt on system.
Yes please, AFAIK, Cattman is the first and only manufacturer of 3" catbacks for Maximas
I was looking online and found these. I figured if I measured out my exhaust and ordered what I needed, it might be more afforadable. What do you guys think?
http://store.airflo.com/exhaust-tubing.html
http://www.bassani.com/universal/tubing/
http://www.jcwhitney.com/mandrel-ben.../p2006247.jcwx
And does anyone know if I brought in a tube for an exhaust shop to bend, would they? cuz I found a site that sells straight piping
http://www.nextag.com/BORLA-30330-Tu...21/prices-html
http://store.airflo.com/exhaust-tubing.html
http://www.bassani.com/universal/tubing/
http://www.jcwhitney.com/mandrel-ben.../p2006247.jcwx
And does anyone know if I brought in a tube for an exhaust shop to bend, would they? cuz I found a site that sells straight piping
http://www.nextag.com/BORLA-30330-Tu...21/prices-html
Wow lots of opinions on the subject. Well lets think about the diameters like this. Try blowing out of a straw and then out of a paper towel roll. You will notice the air leaving the straw is moving at a faster velocity than the air leaving the paper towel roll.
Now when we apply these examples to the diameters of a car exhaust system they both remain true, in the sense that a 2.25 inch pipe will have the exhaust gases leaving the engine at a faster rate then a 2.5 inch. These faster moving gases actually promotes "scavenging", or basically draws air out of the engine more efficiently, and depending on valve timing draws intake air into the cylinders. This will give you good mid range torque while retaining a very good low and top end performance.
A larger diameter pipe will allow a greater volume of gas to exit the engine, although it will be moving slower if the engine is naturally aspirated. If the engine is turbocharged, or supercharged having a bigger diameter pipe is better. This is due to the fact that what ever method of boost you are using, a higher volume of air is being put into the engine, and thus this air must be evacuated as easily as possible. Turbo engines especially don't need to have back pressure behind the turbine, as this will lead to slow spool time.
Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
Now when we apply these examples to the diameters of a car exhaust system they both remain true, in the sense that a 2.25 inch pipe will have the exhaust gases leaving the engine at a faster rate then a 2.5 inch. These faster moving gases actually promotes "scavenging", or basically draws air out of the engine more efficiently, and depending on valve timing draws intake air into the cylinders. This will give you good mid range torque while retaining a very good low and top end performance.
A larger diameter pipe will allow a greater volume of gas to exit the engine, although it will be moving slower if the engine is naturally aspirated. If the engine is turbocharged, or supercharged having a bigger diameter pipe is better. This is due to the fact that what ever method of boost you are using, a higher volume of air is being put into the engine, and thus this air must be evacuated as easily as possible. Turbo engines especially don't need to have back pressure behind the turbine, as this will lead to slow spool time.
Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
Are you referring to the intake still?
Update on prices
Cheapest I found for stock pipe with resinator was $150. 3in $190 but I talked to a buddy of mine and he said his guy can do the stock for $50!! The 3in I have to take the car in for him to see how he is going to bend it and I'll get the price then. Ill keep you guys updated
Update on prices
Cheapest I found for stock pipe with resinator was $150. 3in $190 but I talked to a buddy of mine and he said his guy can do the stock for $50!!
The 3in I have to take the car in for him to see how he is going to bend it and I'll get the price then. Ill keep you guys updated
Last edited by CMax03; 02-14-2011 at 01:19 AM.
02-16-2011, 01:19 PM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Honestly if u go by all the manufacturer claims of increased HP...Aack's car jus about matches up. Hell, the exhaust mods alone should yield additional 20whp.
And i thought this thread was about 2.25" vs 2.5"
And i thought this thread was about 2.25" vs 2.5"
02-16-2011, 01:26 PM
#72
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
trini, you are mostly correct. but... lol...
hook an air pump up to to the straw and the paper towel roll. i know it seems like overkill but here's why
1) the straw, while promoting increased velocity will at some point
begin to restrict flow as most engines don't operate at any single
speed.
2) by the same token the paper towel roll will allow increased flow but reduce velocity which will inhibit scavenging
the key here is to balance the two, find that compromise that works best for each engine.
like i said before:
*- 2.25" for stock replacement
*- 2.5" for performance
*- 3" for HIGH performance
hook an air pump up to to the straw and the paper towel roll. i know it seems like overkill but here's why
1) the straw, while promoting increased velocity will at some point
begin to restrict flow as most engines don't operate at any single
speed.
2) by the same token the paper towel roll will allow increased flow but reduce velocity which will inhibit scavenging
the key here is to balance the two, find that compromise that works best for each engine.
like i said before:
*- 2.25" for stock replacement
*- 2.5" for performance
*- 3" for HIGH performance
I endorse this statement.
02-16-2011, 06:33 PM
#74
IIRC, Kevlo proved that the 4th gen was actually larger in dia. than the 5 gen.
Either way, it's a moot point, and has been proven time and time again, regardless of the numerous backpressure statements, 3" if heavily bolted + electronically enhanced or obviously atmospherically enhanced.
Modding is a bug, and with each one comes another, I would toss a 3" on my old A32 if I still was modding it.
Either way, it's a moot point, and has been proven time and time again, regardless of the numerous backpressure statements, 3" if heavily bolted + electronically enhanced or obviously atmospherically enhanced.
Modding is a bug, and with each one comes another, I would toss a 3" on my old A32 if I still was modding it.
02-17-2011, 12:44 PM
#75
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
It was lol. But someone brought up the point of a three inch pipe so it became 2.5 vs 3
02-17-2011, 01:22 PM
#76
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
02-17-2011, 03:59 PM
#78
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 162
Its hard to find 3" inlet mufflers with out paying a high price, so I went to ebay and found these. What do you guys think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Inl...item35affd69dd
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Uni...item3f07481c61
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-IN-...item5d2d73d5d6
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Inl...item35affd69dd
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Uni...item3f07481c61
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-IN-...item5d2d73d5d6
02-17-2011, 05:10 PM
#79
the point is you can probably find a stock replacement for the 4th gen easier/cheaper/quicker in 2.25 than 2.0 and the size difference is so negligible that no concern in regards to tune need be addressed.
02-18-2011, 07:07 PM
#80
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
04 exhaust
Have a hole in my exhaust and am going to need to get it repair/replaced. Any1 recommend a good exhaust system? Id rather put alittle extra $ and increase performance than just repair it with factory exhaust