clutch slippin in 1st when floored...
#1
clutch slippin in 1st when floored...
so as the title says, my clutch is slipping bad in 1st....well let me give you a prelude....the clutch i just replaced would slip when i dumped it or floored it in 1st from like a 5 roll...just bad....redline...back down to 4.5...then back to redline....so i thought ide replace the clutch..
i put the new one in, and since then, broke it in correctly, no stupid driving, i granny shifted at 2.5-3000 for ever....i did like 150 city driving, then 330 highway, bout another hundred city then another 330 back home...Then another 300 or so of city....which is plenty for a breakin period.
my new clutch is a eclutchmaster stage 2 with lightweight fly. i first realized it a couple days ago when i punched it from a slow roll just to feel it and said...you have GOT TO BE KIDDING ME!!!!! new clutch and its STILL slipping in 1st! it only slips in 1st, ...it will slip in 2nd if i go from a dig....slam 1st, slip....shift into 2nd...and slip....then i let off and go wtf! im so confused!
i can be going 25 in 5th and floor it and it doesnt slip at all, i can be doing 50 in 2nd and punch it and it wont slip all the way to 144mph through all gears!~!!!!! i have NO idea what the hell is going on! plz help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it grabs hard through normal upshifting and down shifting...and from a normal 1st gear startup....it grabs hard...jerks the car and wala...just fine...but...i cant go from a dig!!!!! UGH! any questions will be answered and advice taken THANKYOU!!!
tim
i put the new one in, and since then, broke it in correctly, no stupid driving, i granny shifted at 2.5-3000 for ever....i did like 150 city driving, then 330 highway, bout another hundred city then another 330 back home...Then another 300 or so of city....which is plenty for a breakin period.
my new clutch is a eclutchmaster stage 2 with lightweight fly. i first realized it a couple days ago when i punched it from a slow roll just to feel it and said...you have GOT TO BE KIDDING ME!!!!! new clutch and its STILL slipping in 1st! it only slips in 1st, ...it will slip in 2nd if i go from a dig....slam 1st, slip....shift into 2nd...and slip....then i let off and go wtf! im so confused!
i can be going 25 in 5th and floor it and it doesnt slip at all, i can be doing 50 in 2nd and punch it and it wont slip all the way to 144mph through all gears!~!!!!! i have NO idea what the hell is going on! plz help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it grabs hard through normal upshifting and down shifting...and from a normal 1st gear startup....it grabs hard...jerks the car and wala...just fine...but...i cant go from a dig!!!!! UGH! any questions will be answered and advice taken THANKYOU!!!
tim
#4
I put a new flywheel in...cleaned it with brake cleaner before hand...and the pressure plate is new also...
...if the slave was acting lazy, wouldn't it slip in all gears? Or high rpms?...cuz its only when its smashed in 1st...
When i looked at the clutch line, it looked like it had been oily at some point...like it had leaked a lil bit...will a slightly leaking clutch line make it engage slower and cause it to slip....and if that's the reason, I still font know why it won't slip any time else...
...if the slave was acting lazy, wouldn't it slip in all gears? Or high rpms?...cuz its only when its smashed in 1st...
When i looked at the clutch line, it looked like it had been oily at some point...like it had leaked a lil bit...will a slightly leaking clutch line make it engage slower and cause it to slip....and if that's the reason, I still font know why it won't slip any time else...
#5
I put a new flywheel in...cleaned it with brake cleaner before hand...and the pressure plate is new also...
...if the slave was acting lazy, wouldn't it slip in all gears? Or high rpms?...cuz its only when its smashed in 1st...
When i looked at the clutch line, it looked like it had been oily at some point...like it had leaked a lil bit...will a slightly leaking clutch line make it engage slower and cause it to slip....and if that's the reason, I still font know why it won't slip any time else...
...if the slave was acting lazy, wouldn't it slip in all gears? Or high rpms?...cuz its only when its smashed in 1st...
When i looked at the clutch line, it looked like it had been oily at some point...like it had leaked a lil bit...will a slightly leaking clutch line make it engage slower and cause it to slip....and if that's the reason, I still font know why it won't slip any time else...
#9
Leaky clutch line would mean no pressure in the line and no stiffness in clutch pedal feel.
Honestly man, u sure u didnt get some crappy parts? BUT if the clutch and flywheel came together then u shdnt have a problem. IDK man. new clutch dont slip.
Exedy is a brand to go with.
Honestly man, u sure u didnt get some crappy parts? BUT if the clutch and flywheel came together then u shdnt have a problem. IDK man. new clutch dont slip.
Exedy is a brand to go with.
Last edited by cashoit; 12-20-2010 at 08:02 AM.
#11
what he said. this sounds more like you're spinning one tire and then it grabs again. not the clutch slipping.
If the clutch were slipping, it would happen at 4-5000rpm in the higher gears first. that's when the load is highest on the clutch, not in 1st gear where the tires will spin before the clutch slips.
If the clutch were slipping, it would happen at 4-5000rpm in the higher gears first. that's when the load is highest on the clutch, not in 1st gear where the tires will spin before the clutch slips.
#13
Leaky clutch line would mean no pressure in the line and no stiffness in clutch pedal feel.
Honestly man, u sure u didnt get some crappy parts? BUT if the clutch and flywheel came together then u shdnt have a problem. IDK man. new clutch dont slip.
Exedy is a brand to go with.
Honestly man, u sure u didnt get some crappy parts? BUT if the clutch and flywheel came together then u shdnt have a problem. IDK man. new clutch dont slip.
Exedy is a brand to go with.
#17
haha im a newb...but not that much of a newb....my speedo doesnt climb when it slips or i know i would be spinnin....rpm will redline...drop back down a bit...then sore again...with it floored...my friends next to me were like...yea....deff. clutch haha ...anyone know the best place for a ss braided clutch line would be?
#18
could my clutch pedal being out of adjustment cause this by chance? whoever gets in my car and just listens to it is just like wth? cuz it holds strong on everthing other than a dig....like 5thgear 20 roll, it will hold all day, from a second roll going slow, fine, even at like a 10 roll in 1st its ok most of the time. it wont slip unless i dump it....so i have no idea. if the clutch was bad, it would slip in all gears or atleast slip more frequently than it does. ANY input is appreciated!
#19
i have another idea possibly....could the 1st and or 2nd gear syncros going out in the trans make it do what its doing? could the trans have anything to do with it? its still the stock trans at 240000 miles....i wouldnt doubt it:/ but thats why im asking you guys cuz i have no idea plz help!
#20
i have another idea possibly....could the 1st and or 2nd gear syncros going out in the trans make it do what its doing? could the trans have anything to do with it? its still the stock trans at 240000 miles....i wouldnt doubt it:/ but thats why im asking you guys cuz i have no idea plz help!
#21
Transmissions either go or they don't. Not an element in this discussion.
With a leaking clutch line or bad clutch hydraulics I would expect your problem to be that it wouldn't release, rather then not engage fully.
Did your new clutch come with a new pressure plate and disc? How did you clean those surfaces before installing?
With a leaking clutch line or bad clutch hydraulics I would expect your problem to be that it wouldn't release, rather then not engage fully.
Did your new clutch come with a new pressure plate and disc? How did you clean those surfaces before installing?
#23
Have you checked the fluid level? If your slave isn't leaking it could be your master going out. If those are good maybe the forks are messed up. Do you have a problem with the pedal getting stuck when it's in/out of gear? More info!!!!
#24
haha i like the "help my trans went out" comment haha actually made me laugh out loud, i will check the levels tomorrow...i feel like a complete newb idiot because....well.....ima just put it out there..and im gonna get laughed/flamed...whatever you all wanna do lol...ok well...i think my problem this whole time....or well partially is that i am dumping from too high of an rpm....if i dump it from like 3 ish....itll grab if i feather it for the most part so the tires grab,..i havent tried just straight up 3 grand, then floor....but i will....soon...just to see if 3 grand is consistant..
--but will dumping it at 4-6 make it slip like that? or should i keep investigating? and the pedal feels fine, shifting is smooth...but i also get like a vibrating feelin that i can hear lol..if i let the clutch out slowly, when i get to a the sweet spot just before it grabs completely, i can literally feel and hear the clutch rubbing on the disk/flywheel etc....should it do this? i dont think so....but idk...im new to the higher performance clutches....
----ima newb it know! but i need help to learn haha ive read and read and read some more but aint finding what i need haha....if the master is going out? what will the symptoms be on that.....? the slave is new and is not leeking itself..the line is stock and has a leak somewhere...but its not major at all....extremely minor....so idk...
--but will dumping it at 4-6 make it slip like that? or should i keep investigating? and the pedal feels fine, shifting is smooth...but i also get like a vibrating feelin that i can hear lol..if i let the clutch out slowly, when i get to a the sweet spot just before it grabs completely, i can literally feel and hear the clutch rubbing on the disk/flywheel etc....should it do this? i dont think so....but idk...im new to the higher performance clutches....
----ima newb it know! but i need help to learn haha ive read and read and read some more but aint finding what i need haha....if the master is going out? what will the symptoms be on that.....? the slave is new and is not leeking itself..the line is stock and has a leak somewhere...but its not major at all....extremely minor....so idk...
#25
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haha i like the "help my trans went out" comment haha actually made me laugh out loud, i will check the levels tomorrow...i feel like a complete newb idiot because....well.....ima just put it out there..and im gonna get laughed/flamed...whatever you all wanna do lol...ok well...i think my problem this whole time....or well partially is that i am dumping from too high of an rpm....if i dump it from like 3 ish....itll grab if i feather it for the most part so the tires grab,..i havent tried just straight up 3 grand, then floor....but i will....soon...just to see if 3 grand is consistant..
--but will dumping it at 4-6 make it slip like that? or should i keep investigating?
--but will dumping it at 4-6 make it slip like that? or should i keep investigating?
It wasn't ment to be funny. You keep driving your Maxima like that and you'll be replacing some high dollar parts real soon.
Dumping a clutch on just about any vehicle is going to cause premature failure of drive trane components.
Keep dumping the clutch, we'll watch for your next thread.
#26
haha then keep your eyes open im sure it will come eventually.....i know that for a fact...as many miles as i have, and the way i drive sometimes...something has to go....these trans' arent indestructable....im suprised something hasnt gone yet
but thanks for the positivity! haha
but thanks for the positivity! haha
#27
fixed that statement for you.
Last edited by asand1; 12-28-2010 at 08:16 PM.
#29
It wasn't ment to be funny. You keep driving your Maxima like that and you'll be replacing some high dollar parts real soon.
Dumping a clutch on just about any vehicle is going to cause premature failure of drive trane components.
Keep dumping the clutch, we'll watch for your next thread.
#31
Not sure at this point there is much reason to post TBH. In the case someone searches or cares to know...
You can "break-in" as much or as little as you want; if not done properly it is to no avail. The purpose of break-in is to 'evenly' deposit metal, from the clutch pad, on the flywheel creating a surface with higher friction coefficient. As a generality, this is referred to as lapping. This is much like breaking in your brakes.
When working a new clutch you want to make sure: You do not overheat the clutch and or flywheel. Both controlling your slip, how long you slip the clutch, and being mindful of slip frequency will avoid this issue. The opposite is also true. If you do not heat the clutch pad matrix enough it will not properly lap with the flywheel. </overusageof’slip’>
Thus any distance given is truly an estimate by the manufacture based on average driving. Obviously they rather error on the side of caution; hence high mileage break-in. (Be mindful that break-in will also vary based on pad compound. I believe someone mentioned this in reference to racing clutches.) If you are not sure about break-in the best idea would be to contact the manufacturer and MAKE SURE you get someone who is knowledgeable. (I doubt many people care or know enough to know your specific application to give you sound advice… other than general information.)
As in the case of the poster, if you are using a full faced clutch, pay close attention to your slip, rpm, and frequency. Note that a full faced clutch will not dissipate the gasses created by high RPM clutch engagement as well as a segmented pad. This is significant as the gas acts as a pseudo buffer to friction. (tsheffler - This is most likely a major factor in the issue you are experiencing.) [Please read the following as constructive criticism.] There is no reason for high RPM clutch ‘dumping’. You should be leveraging your clutch at your TQ peak against slip without risking overheating. I say with the understanding of running my Maxi at PIR all summer for 2 years at “Street Nights” (1/4 mile). AFYI The information about rebuilding your tyranny is correct. My first only lasted 85k where my second is already beyond 200k.
To add to this there are many factors in the process leading up to, and during, clutch slip. Tire grip, gear leverage, surface friction, normal force, torque, rpm, your suspension, etc. So don’t be an ignoramus. Do things the right way and your experience will not only be more enjoyable but more productive.
Have to run into the fab. I will edit this later. GL
You can "break-in" as much or as little as you want; if not done properly it is to no avail. The purpose of break-in is to 'evenly' deposit metal, from the clutch pad, on the flywheel creating a surface with higher friction coefficient. As a generality, this is referred to as lapping. This is much like breaking in your brakes.
When working a new clutch you want to make sure: You do not overheat the clutch and or flywheel. Both controlling your slip, how long you slip the clutch, and being mindful of slip frequency will avoid this issue. The opposite is also true. If you do not heat the clutch pad matrix enough it will not properly lap with the flywheel. </overusageof’slip’>
Thus any distance given is truly an estimate by the manufacture based on average driving. Obviously they rather error on the side of caution; hence high mileage break-in. (Be mindful that break-in will also vary based on pad compound. I believe someone mentioned this in reference to racing clutches.) If you are not sure about break-in the best idea would be to contact the manufacturer and MAKE SURE you get someone who is knowledgeable. (I doubt many people care or know enough to know your specific application to give you sound advice… other than general information.)
As in the case of the poster, if you are using a full faced clutch, pay close attention to your slip, rpm, and frequency. Note that a full faced clutch will not dissipate the gasses created by high RPM clutch engagement as well as a segmented pad. This is significant as the gas acts as a pseudo buffer to friction. (tsheffler - This is most likely a major factor in the issue you are experiencing.) [Please read the following as constructive criticism.] There is no reason for high RPM clutch ‘dumping’. You should be leveraging your clutch at your TQ peak against slip without risking overheating. I say with the understanding of running my Maxi at PIR all summer for 2 years at “Street Nights” (1/4 mile). AFYI The information about rebuilding your tyranny is correct. My first only lasted 85k where my second is already beyond 200k.
To add to this there are many factors in the process leading up to, and during, clutch slip. Tire grip, gear leverage, surface friction, normal force, torque, rpm, your suspension, etc. So don’t be an ignoramus. Do things the right way and your experience will not only be more enjoyable but more productive.
Have to run into the fab. I will edit this later. GL
#32
thankyou very much! i didnt take any critisism out of that at all. merely someone trying to help me. my clutch is a 6 puck so the solid face info is kinda eh? idk tho. you obviously know what your talking about so your information is appreciated, when i get my engine put back in, broken motor mounts fixed, axel replaced and everything done right this time, i will get back on this thread and update my experienced. thanks!
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