Electrical Problem...can't figure it out!
09-22-2010, 09:53 PM
#1
Electrical Problem...can't figure it out!
My car has had several electrical issues since I bought it, but I've been pretty good at fixing things...that is until now.
I have had the battery/brake dash lights on pretty much since I bought the car. From what I read that meant that my alternator was going out. I drove the car for three years with the lights on most of the time (you get used to them...
until finally my alternator failed (perfect timing...I just graduated college, got home, have a place to work and plenty of time after work to fix it). I just got my new alternator in the mail today, installed it, and it doesn't work. It is possible that I got a bad reman, but...
Some other problems have plagued my car:
The headlights, stereo lights, essentially all lights in the car would flicker (brighter and dimmer) as well as the radio turning off and on. That stopped about a year ago and it hasn't happened since (didn't really do anything, it just stopped).
Sometimes when I use my turn signals all my gauges will go to zero and my windows stop working. I used to just turn the car off, then back on while in neutral and everything would start working again, but now that isn't working either. I have searched for shorted wires in all of the electrical system (removed everything from the dash including gauge cluster, radio, temp control, everything around steering column (turn signal in particular), and cruise control, security led, dimmer switch, etc.). Under the hood I have traced all visible wires to the extent I am able and nothing seems to be exposed/shorted. The lights flash when I use the hazards, but the bulbs don't function individually when using the turn signals.
My battery voltage reads just under 12 before starting the car. It doesn't have enough juice to start the car, but I can start the car with jumper cables. When I remove the cables voltage goes from 13.8 and gradually drops off until the car dies. If my alternator were working, then the battery would be charging. The battery is just over a year old, so I don't believe it is the problem. I just replaced the alternator, so it shouldn't be the problem. I can't figure out if the turn signal, gauges, windows problem above is related to the electrical system not charging.
Has anyone had similar issues and (more importantly) does anyone have any ideas about how to fix my car?
P.S. I'm going to check my old alternator to see if it really had gone bad tomorrow. I'll check the battery as well and update with further info.
Congrats on reading to the end and Thanks in advance!
I have had the battery/brake dash lights on pretty much since I bought the car. From what I read that meant that my alternator was going out. I drove the car for three years with the lights on most of the time (you get used to them...
until finally my alternator failed (perfect timing...I just graduated college, got home, have a place to work and plenty of time after work to fix it). I just got my new alternator in the mail today, installed it, and it doesn't work. It is possible that I got a bad reman, but...Some other problems have plagued my car:
The headlights, stereo lights, essentially all lights in the car would flicker (brighter and dimmer) as well as the radio turning off and on. That stopped about a year ago and it hasn't happened since (didn't really do anything, it just stopped).
Sometimes when I use my turn signals all my gauges will go to zero and my windows stop working. I used to just turn the car off, then back on while in neutral and everything would start working again, but now that isn't working either. I have searched for shorted wires in all of the electrical system (removed everything from the dash including gauge cluster, radio, temp control, everything around steering column (turn signal in particular), and cruise control, security led, dimmer switch, etc.). Under the hood I have traced all visible wires to the extent I am able and nothing seems to be exposed/shorted. The lights flash when I use the hazards, but the bulbs don't function individually when using the turn signals.
My battery voltage reads just under 12 before starting the car. It doesn't have enough juice to start the car, but I can start the car with jumper cables. When I remove the cables voltage goes from 13.8 and gradually drops off until the car dies. If my alternator were working, then the battery would be charging. The battery is just over a year old, so I don't believe it is the problem. I just replaced the alternator, so it shouldn't be the problem. I can't figure out if the turn signal, gauges, windows problem above is related to the electrical system not charging.
Has anyone had similar issues and (more importantly) does anyone have any ideas about how to fix my car?
P.S. I'm going to check my old alternator to see if it really had gone bad tomorrow. I'll check the battery as well and update with further info.
Congrats on reading to the end and Thanks in advance!
09-23-2010, 06:57 AM
#2
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
The problem is probably in your gauge cluster. The alty. charge signal goes through the gauge cluster. If it's not making a clean connection you'll have all sorts of charging issues, as you already have...
Swap the cluster with a known working unit and see if the alty starts charging.
Swap the cluster with a known working unit and see if the alty starts charging.
09-23-2010, 01:07 PM
#3
Some other problems have plagued my car:
The headlights, stereo lights, essentially all lights in the car would flicker (brighter and dimmer) as well as the radio turning off and on. That stopped about a year ago and it hasn't happened since (didn't really do anything, it just stopped).
Sometimes when I use my turn signals all my gauges will go to zero and my windows stop working. I used to just turn the car off, then back on while in neutral and everything would start working again, but now that isn't working either. I have searched for shorted wires in all of the electrical system (removed everything from the dash including gauge cluster, radio, temp control, everything around steering column (turn signal in particular), and cruise control, security led, dimmer switch, etc.). Under the hood I have traced all visible wires to the extent I am able and nothing seems to be exposed/shorted. The lights flash when I use the hazards, but the bulbs don't function individually when using the turn signals.
My battery voltage reads just under 12 before starting the car. It doesn't have enough juice to start the car, but I can start the car with jumper cables. When I remove the cables voltage goes from 13.8 and gradually drops off until the car dies. If my alternator were working, then the battery would be charging. The battery is just over a year old, so I don't believe it is the problem. I just replaced the alternator, so it shouldn't be the problem. I can't figure out if the turn signal, gauges, windows problem above is related to the electrical system not charging.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-23-2010 at 01:48 PM.
09-23-2010, 01:25 PM
#4
Turn signals not working properly may be a bad/wrong connection when you took things apart? Find a link to the FSM and check the wiring diagrams there to make sure you hooked the turn signals up correctly.
For the turn signal issue find the light green / black stripe wire and make sure it is properly connected to the turn signal stalk.
It sounds like you may have removed some of the wiring/connectors and may have introduced some problems.
For the turn signal issue find the light green / black stripe wire and make sure it is properly connected to the turn signal stalk.
It sounds like you may have removed some of the wiring/connectors and may have introduced some problems.
Last edited by Nopike; 09-23-2010 at 01:58 PM.
09-23-2010, 02:06 PM
#5
I also agree with njmaxseltd the gauge cluster could cause charging problems, but I doubt you have a spare to swap. It is probably more important to get the alternator charging the battery properly before you worry about the other stuff.
09-25-2010, 08:08 AM
#6
1997 Nissan Maxima SE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Illinois
Posts: 110
Before swapping out the gauge cluster, I would just remove it and check that all the connection are good on your current cluster. The main thing to check is on the back of your cluster is small screws that make the actual connection to the gauges. Just take a small phillip screw driver and make sure that none of these have vibrated loose. (P.S. I have had to remove these screws all the way out and do a quick polish of the spot where they screw in to help make a better connection.) This is a very easy job to do, before you go and spend any money. Good Luck
09-28-2010, 06:33 PM
#7
Hey everyone. Thanks for the advice. I still haven't figured out the problem, but I think it is related to bad connections from the gauge cluster to the wires. Haven't figured out how to fix it yet. I'm pretty sure all the connections within the cluster (took apart and cleaned/tightened just to make sure) are good. The ignition switch is fine as far as I can tell. My radio, fans, etc. all work when I just turn the key to ACC and it starts and runs fine (except for charging the battery) when moving the key to IGN and normal run position. Currently it starts and runs fine until the battery drains down. All lights work, and radio works, but windows do not. I have checked all fuses. Any chance a relay is bad? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Going to try to clean gauge cluster to wiring harness contacts and continue troubleshooting with voltmeter....
09-28-2010, 07:45 PM
#8
Do you have the window lock switch depressed. That is about then only thing that will prevent the windows from working without other circuits such as doorlock, sunroof, steplamps also not working.
Not sure if you have access to the FSM, but check Fuse #60 and 13
Charging System Description
The alternator provides DC voltage to operate the vehicle’s electrical system and to keep the battery charged.
AC voltage is converted into DC voltage by the diode assembly in the alternator.
Power is supplied at all times to alternator terminal qS through:
I 120A (For California) or 140A (Except for California) fusible link (letter a , located in the fuse and fusible
link box), and
I 7.5A fuse (No. 60 , located in the fuse and fusible link box).
Voltage output through alternator terminal qB , is controlled by the IC regulator at terminal qS . The charging circuit
is protected by the 120A or 140A fusible link.
Terminal qE of the alternator supplies ground through body ground E35 .
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 13 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to combination meter terminal q37 for the charge warning indicator.
Ground is supplied to terminal q30 of the combination meter through terminal qL of the alternator. With power
and ground supplied, the charge warning indicator will illuminate. When the alternator is providing sufficient
voltage, the ground is opened and the charge warning indicator will go off.
If the charge warning indicator illuminates with the engine running, a malfunction is indicated. Refer to “Trouble
Diagnoses” (EL-31).
Not sure if you have access to the FSM, but check Fuse #60 and 13
Charging System Description
The alternator provides DC voltage to operate the vehicle’s electrical system and to keep the battery charged.
AC voltage is converted into DC voltage by the diode assembly in the alternator.
Power is supplied at all times to alternator terminal qS through:
I 120A (For California) or 140A (Except for California) fusible link (letter a , located in the fuse and fusible
link box), and
I 7.5A fuse (No. 60 , located in the fuse and fusible link box).
Voltage output through alternator terminal qB , is controlled by the IC regulator at terminal qS . The charging circuit
is protected by the 120A or 140A fusible link.
Terminal qE of the alternator supplies ground through body ground E35 .
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 13 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to combination meter terminal q37 for the charge warning indicator.
Ground is supplied to terminal q30 of the combination meter through terminal qL of the alternator. With power
and ground supplied, the charge warning indicator will illuminate. When the alternator is providing sufficient
voltage, the ground is opened and the charge warning indicator will go off.
If the charge warning indicator illuminates with the engine running, a malfunction is indicated. Refer to “Trouble
Diagnoses” (EL-31).
09-29-2010, 08:32 PM
#9
I was finally able to get my old alternator (the one I replaced) to the shop today. It tested good and my battery is good. I'm pretty sure the new alternator I just put in is also good.
The windows and sunroof do not work, the window lock is not on. The door locks, all external and interior lights, fan, and radio all work. The car will start and run until the battery is drained. Alt still doesn't seem to be charging. All the gauges on the cluster do not work.
I double checked all fuses (especially the ones listed above) and all electrical connections and grounds. I took out my gauge cluster (again for the who knows how many-th time) and checked all electrical connections (screws, wire harness, etc.) I am becoming more frustrated as I still can't figure out the problem. I appreciate all the helpful suggestions.
The windows and sunroof do not work, the window lock is not on. The door locks, all external and interior lights, fan, and radio all work. The car will start and run until the battery is drained. Alt still doesn't seem to be charging. All the gauges on the cluster do not work.
I double checked all fuses (especially the ones listed above) and all electrical connections and grounds. I took out my gauge cluster (again for the who knows how many-th time) and checked all electrical connections (screws, wire harness, etc.) I am becoming more frustrated as I still can't figure out the problem. I appreciate all the helpful suggestions.
10-01-2010, 07:45 PM
#11
as stated above, I have checked, double checked, and yes even triple checked every fuse in the entire car. They are all good. This problem is driving me crazy!!! I am a licensed A&P mechanic (aircraft) and grew up working on cars my whole life with my dad. None of this makes any sense. I don't know how many hours I've spent trying to fix the problem, but nothing I do works. The battery is good, the alternator is new, and the old one I took out tested good. I just want my maxima back 
10-01-2010, 08:16 PM
#12
check your grounds.
it might be a good idea to add a few more ground strips with thick gauge wire from motor to frame, alt. to frame, and battery to frame. Also, doable check other grounds around engine bay.
inside fuse box by the driver side, check and/or replace/swap places the three blue relays. One of the relays is for the gauges and if it has a bad connection or doesn't work, will give you havoc with the cluster.
check all the wires from the alternator to their respective places for continuity based on the FSM.
Hope this helps.
it might be a good idea to add a few more ground strips with thick gauge wire from motor to frame, alt. to frame, and battery to frame. Also, doable check other grounds around engine bay.
inside fuse box by the driver side, check and/or replace/swap places the three blue relays. One of the relays is for the gauges and if it has a bad connection or doesn't work, will give you havoc with the cluster.
check all the wires from the alternator to their respective places for continuity based on the FSM.
Hope this helps.
10-03-2010, 04:34 PM
#16
10-03-2010, 10:01 PM
#17
Grounds have all been cleaned and firmly reattached. I may consider adding some others, but I really don't think that is the problem. I've been checking continuity of wires and have yet to find any problems. I'll try swapping some relays tomorrow and see if that changes anything.
load testing the alternator: with the car running I measured voltage at the battery to be a little over 12.2v. Turned on all lights, radio, etc. and voltage dropped to about 11.8v. Battery is good, but swapped with a different one just to make sure.
I'll post resistance tomorrow (good call on not having voltage in the line, don't want to fry my multimeter). I will say that with the car running, from the alternator positive to engine ground reads battery voltage.
Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions. Please keep them coming!
load testing the alternator: with the car running I measured voltage at the battery to be a little over 12.2v. Turned on all lights, radio, etc. and voltage dropped to about 11.8v. Battery is good, but swapped with a different one just to make sure.
I'll post resistance tomorrow (good call on not having voltage in the line, don't want to fry my multimeter). I will say that with the car running, from the alternator positive to engine ground reads battery voltage.
Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions. Please keep them coming!
10-04-2010, 02:54 AM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 41
If you measure resistance, be sure there is no voltage on that line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtech
when you get a chance, grab a multi-meter and find out what the the ohm reading is for positive cable going coming from the alt. post your findings...
sorry, i thought it was implied that when measuring resistance, the cable would have been disconnected to get true measurement of ohm reading (resistance).
thanks for clarifiying...
oldtech
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtech
when you get a chance, grab a multi-meter and find out what the the ohm reading is for positive cable going coming from the alt. post your findings...
sorry, i thought it was implied that when measuring resistance, the cable would have been disconnected to get true measurement of ohm reading (resistance).
thanks for clarifiying...
oldtech
10-04-2010, 06:27 PM
#19
check your grounds.
it might be a good idea to add a few more ground strips with thick gauge wire from motor to frame, alt. to frame, and battery to frame. Also, doable check other grounds around engine bay.
inside fuse box by the driver side, check and/or replace/swap places the three blue relays. One of the relays is for the gauges and if it has a bad connection or doesn't work, will give you havoc with the cluster.
check all the wires from the alternator to their respective places for continuity based on the FSM.
Hope this helps.
it might be a good idea to add a few more ground strips with thick gauge wire from motor to frame, alt. to frame, and battery to frame. Also, doable check other grounds around engine bay.
inside fuse box by the driver side, check and/or replace/swap places the three blue relays. One of the relays is for the gauges and if it has a bad connection or doesn't work, will give you havoc with the cluster.
check all the wires from the alternator to their respective places for continuity based on the FSM.
Hope this helps.
I swapped the blue relays underneath the dash. After the first swap, everything worked again, but the car wouldn't start. The next swap resulted in gauges working and car starting, but not blower. The three relays are labeled ACC top relay(accessories-the one that was bad on my car), Blower (bottom right), and I couldn't see the other one, but I assume it is Start or something (bottom left). I stole a relay from the box under the hood on the left side near the powersteering fluid labeled Horn 3. Not sure what it does b/c my horn still works. I'll replace it when I get a new relay from someone.
Everything on my car works again! Thanks nsnrider and everyone else for your suggestions. To anyone else having this problem I hope this fixes it for you as well!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10-04-2010, 09:20 PM
#20
That relay makes the horn in the engine compartment by the power steering reservoir blow when the car alarm goes off.
10-04-2010, 09:40 PM
#21
10-17-2010, 10:57 AM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 62
I wish I could say that it was the relay, but my alty is dead. Bad diode. For some reason Oreilly's said it was okay, but when I took it to AZ it checked bad. OF course, this was after my car stalled out. New alty is in place and battery is charge, so hopefully no more problems. Thanks for posting this.
11-22-2011, 05:22 AM
#25
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 8
I read through this thread as my son's '96 has been having electrical issues as of late. The bulk of the problem was mostly resolved after I replaced the alternator (which is not the easiest to get at). I also had to replace the 120 amp fusible link which may have blown when he tried to jump start it the last time. That got the blower, wipers and driving lights working. The radio, cruise control and windows are still not working. Will chase that problem down tonight.
Any thoughts on where this problem might be coming from? I doubt that the individual fuses are blown. There must be a relay or main fuse that controls these functions.
Any thoughts on where this problem might be coming from? I doubt that the individual fuses are blown. There must be a relay or main fuse that controls these functions.
04-18-2012, 10:17 PM
#26
I have this same problem with my maxi. Its the 2nd alternator i bought and my battery wont charge. Just after readijg this thread tonight i went on and switched my blue relays around my instrument cluster wont show the time but a/c and blower work' could this be affecting the signal from alty to w.e it goes? I ned help i replaced ground and and checked the 7.5a fuse and 140a fusible
I got my battery light showing aswell as air bag n brake light, any hits to where i can look into?
I got my battery light showing aswell as air bag n brake light, any hits to where i can look into?
04-23-2012, 04:51 AM
#29
All fuses check respective voltage. All i cant think of is a short. Whe i hit my breakes my corner lights go on.?? No clue but im assuming this has something to do with it. Thanks..more info will be appreciated
04-23-2012, 06:33 AM
#30
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Anyone out there know where I can get a Bose setup from a wrecked 2010 maxima and some nissan 370 wheels? anydifection would help. Also whats the widest tire you can put on the max and still stay tucked in the wheel well?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Unclejunebug
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
10
04-02-2016 05:42 AM
fx4five
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
8
10-18-2015 06:57 PM
HerpDerp1919
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
2
09-29-2015 02:02 PM