canIlive

So, my car still won't start after changing spark plugs. I'm troubleshooting so I removed each coil and made sure the spark plug was on tight. All of the ignition coils seem regular. When I pulled the last one out on the rear right corner, it seemed to have some type of brownish powder remains as shown below. None of the other coils had this. Is this a bad coil? Could this be preventing my car from starting? Did I mention my my engine shook drastically when I initially tried Bosch Platinum 2's plugs? (which is why I returned them and got NGKs). Help...

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

the simple answer .... NO that will not prevent starting. Pull codes via the OBD II

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

You need to check the starter, whether the mating surfaces are clean, whether it is wired back properly.... You did mention in your other thread that your "bootleg" mechanic who broke and glued back your MAF, also replaced your starter.

The starter may not be your problem, but you do have a starting problem so start there.

And you need to read the CEL codes.

Your starting problem is probably not caused by sparkplugs.

canIlive

Well, when the starter was replaced, the car was completely dead. This was 2 months ago. Since then, the car has been starting just fine. About a month later, it started randomly sputtering and stalling at stop lights. That actual "not starting" problem started 2 days ago when I replaced the spark plugs. BTW, when I turn the key, it cranks up nice and strong, but it just doesn't turn over. I am pretty sure the starter has nothing to do with this issue.

canIlive

Well, I can't drive it to an auto parts store to get codes like I normally do. Is there any other ways to get codes?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Check your CKPS POS and REF sensors. Get them cleaned up and test per FSM. Did you have any codes prior to changing the plugs?

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Read below to check your engine light code yourself, without driving anywhere.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

This is what you posted earlier today in another thread:

canIlive

Ok? Anyway, thanks for the link to get the codes myself. I got 0802 code which is Crank Position Sensor. Time to do some more research. I guess the spark plugs and the MAF sensor replacement was a waste of money!! I should have checked the codes first. I replaced the MAF because I was there when he messed it up and the car stalled everytime the metal didn't touch. So I figured the work around didn't last.

Can anyone tell me exactly where the Crank Position Sensor is and what should I do to it? Pics may help.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

The position sensor is next to the oil filter. You need a 10 mm nut driver to remove it. It has a tiny magnetic tip, which you should wipe off with a rag. Check the harness going to it first, make sure it's connected properly, and none of the cables are frayed or severed.

And, if you can't see the inconsistencies in the above stories that distract from getting the problem solved, then you need to work on it.

In fact, you started three threads, and in each one someone asked you to check the engine light code, and you ignored them. Just saying...

canIlive

Thanks. It's too dark now to check it out but I will in the morning. Sorry for the confusion on the threads. It just been such a hassle that I'm no longer sure which issue was it that actually started the problem.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

My bad, that's not the sensor next to the oil filter (crankshaft position sensor REF). The crankshaft position sensor POS is in the front of the engine, where the engine meets the tranny.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1814_1816.html

This is pretty instructive:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...on-sensor.html

TravisCadello

theirs two of them sensors while your at it clean both them, and have you checked to see why its not firing up? is it fuel problem,spark or compression? gotta narrow it down to help us help you.

canIlive

Awesome links

canIlive

Honestly, I don't know. I will clean them tomorrow but how would I determine whether it's a fuel problem, spark or compression issue?

canIlive

So, this morning I removed and cleaned both Crank Position Sensors that were shown in the above diagram. My car still won't turn on. Any ideas?

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Here ya go ... 2 second Google search - I spent longer looking for a link in the stickyz ...

http://www.wikiautorepair.org/wiki/N...ding_ECU_Codes

I'm gonna say MAF - now that I know you had a 'redneck' (not to offend an of ya'll ) glue it back together. Why and what and ... huh? Glued your MAF back together. Ok, please explain this. I am not familliar with your other thread (I guess you had two?).

edit after re-reading: It will not do any good to 'clean' a bad sensor. It's not some magic that cleaning can fix. If the sensor is 'worn out' or has been dropped / set on a metal bench / next to a magnet / or is not pluged in properly (or it could be a wiring issue too) -this will prevent start. You're best bet is to keep the MAF, it's not a waste of money (but your monkey should pay you for it since he broke it originaly) and replace the CPS.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Did you inspect the harness going to each sensor? Look closely at each wire going into the connector; if it's severed then you need to repair it. Did you plug the harnesses in until the clip secures with a click? Sometimes they look plugged in, but actually they are not. I've done that several times; you need to hear the click.

Did the sensor CEL clear after you repaired it?


So it's cranking but not turning over, correct? How old is the fuel filter? What kind of gasoline do you use regularly?

Check connections to starter. Clean any oxidation off the battery terminals, as in take clamps off and wire brush the terminals and the clamp mating surfaces to clean metal. Make sure all connections are clean.

Any other CEL codes you are throwing?

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Not true. I've cleaned mine, and the code never came back. You will find "cleaning" the crankshaft position sensors recommended all the time in this forum, with success. It takes 10 minutes to clean, and you basically know right away if it worked or not, provided you plugged it in properly.

But, yeah, if it's mangled then it won't work. There are ways to test it. And replacing the MAF is not a waste of money, nor is replacing the spark plugs with NGK's. Once you fix this glitch, you'll have a smile ear to ear when you see how it drives.

canIlive

I jacked up the car and from underneath I had a good view at both sensors. I removed and cleaned them both. I also removed the harnesses to make sure there weren't any severed wires. Everything checks out fine. The did the self-test each time and it kept throwing 0802.

Yes, it cranks very strong but it just doesn't turn over. The fuel filter is fairly new. I changed it myself the day after the starter was replaced. I regularly use 87 octane gas.

The battery was also recently replaced so the terminals are still clean. I double checked. No other codes are being thrown.

Just food for thought: The day I installed the Bosch Platinum 2's, when I turned the car on, the engine was shaking like crazy! I had never seen it shake like that. I took it for a spin around the corner and it had lost all power. I floored it and it slooowwlly picked up speed instead of hauling *** the way it normally does. Did this maybe mess up the engine somehow?

If I am looking to replace one of the sensors, how do I know which one needs to be replaced?

Oh yea, I also removed and cleaned the camshaft position sensor. Probably has nothing to do with it but just thought I'd try.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

No one can answer whether you screwed up the engine. It's possible, but unlikely. Does it have oil in it?

You need to focus on the error code: 0802.

This is where the FSM is at, in the EC section for your year, find the troubleshooting for 0802 code, aka P0335. This code is for the POS sensor, there's only one. You cleaned the REF sensor as preventive maintenance.

But notice that it's not the only problem mentioned under that code. There are a bunch of other problems that can trigger that code. The starter for example.

You can just buy the sensor from rockauto.com, and replace without testing, but you may still have the same problem after you replace the sensor with a new one.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

You did say the the car shut off on you several times at lights before you changed anything, including the starter. A bunch of things can cause that, but you ARE getting the CKPS POS code, which is one of those things that causes bad idle and shut off at low rpm, so your sensor may have been taking a dump already. You say you examined the harness to that sensor, and you cleaned the sensor. Next thing is to test or replace.


By the way, you should not run 87 in this engine. Your manual says that the VQ needs 91 or higher. Search for discussions about this in the forums. Many cars take 87, but this engine is designed for high octane.

cashoit

yes Atrium thanks for giving the kid the FSM. He was in desperate need lol.





CanIlive

Yo man, u gotta do a SEARCH. Cleanin the sensors dont do much. They are magnets and if they have lost magnetic properites they not gonna work properly. Need to jus replace em, check wiring harness and grounds.

This post is gonna get too long if i go into detail about what else could possibly be wrong.

Im not tryin to be a d**K but here is how the site works...

1) FSM
2) REad Stickies and FAQ
3) Search
4) Post a question.

See sig...

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

canIlive

I am going to order the crank position sensor from rockauto.com this weekend. I will post the results in the next week.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Did you check the sensors first? You don't have a code for it but you are going to replace it?

Mistah_M

aint ur ignition coils. mine started buckin between 30-40 mph n one of mine were bad. had to replace all ignition coils n while at it changed all spark plugs (not a hard job) and now it runs fine. lol

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Why would you change out all of your coil packs if only one is bad? Seems a bit tenatious to me - if it's not broke, don't fix it. Plus that, had to have cost you a fortune at ~$80 a pop. Not to mention, you should have had a CEL if you had (a) bad coil pack(s).

He did get a code! Read the thread before posting.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Got me...went back and seen it.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Were you trying to say tedious? Looking at that word was making my head hurt. (tenatious, tedious, tenacious, tenacious D...oh, I see where you were going!)

I don't know why people can't read a few lines of text before posting so we don't have to rehash everything? So, status update on the thread:

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Part out or what?

canIlive

helll nooo!! I bought the part from advance auto parts. The part was listed for $90. I searched online and found a coupon code for $30 off $80 or more purchase. I asked to pick up at the store to avoid shipping fee. My total was $59!! Better than any website I saw it for. Anyway, I picked it up today and will replace it tomorrow morning. I will post the results.

BTW, here's the coupons (I used BIG35)
http://www.offers.com/advance-autopa...clq-gls-100c1a

Enjoy!!

canIlive

So, I replaced the Crank Position Sensor this morning and the car still won't start!! Same dilemma; crank but not start. This time when I did the self-test, I got 0505 instead of 0802. I checked the codes but 0505 doesn't exist!! What do I do now?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Okay so you changed your CKPS REF sensor and you replaced your plugs and your car refuses to start. Let's see...is the engine turning over? If so, when was the last time you replaced your PCV valve?

canIlive

So I cranked again, still no start. Now I'm getting 0802 again! I got the car in 2008 and I have never changed the PCV.

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

That says it all. You need to replace the CKPS REF sensor located on the tranny housing or check the harness for a short.

canIlive

Atriuum's image says the issue is with the POS, not REF, or am I wrong? I replaced the POS. Am I supposed to also replace REF? I just called a mobile mechanic and told him what was going on. He said normally if the Crank Position sensor goes out, the Camshaft sensor goes out as well. He recommended I replace that. Does this sound about right? (The Camshaft sensor would be part 23731M in the diagram located right above REF sensor)

atriuum

iTrader: (3)

No, trini made a typo - you replaced the POS, he is referring to the POS. You need to go down the list. So you did the sensor, you need to recheck the harness going to the sensor. Then check the starter, and all connections to the starter. Go to an auotzone or advanceautoparts, and have the starter tested, I think it's free.

I know you think it's not the starter, but you should check it anyway. Make sure its connections are clean. People get bad new starters all the time. Either way, you have to eliminate one by one.

canIlive

Ok, so I just removed the MAF and accompanying parts to get to the starter. I checked both of the connections going to the starter as well as the little grey plug connector and it all seems fine. I don't see any severed wires or any signs of something wrong. From underneath the car, I checked the harness going to the POS and it seems good too. I also removed and cleaned the Camshaft sensor just in case but that didn't help at all.

I can't go to autozone to get the started checked because the car doesn't start. I have a mobile mechanic coming to look at the car later. Hopefully something will come out of that. I have exhausted my knowledge and research.