Car cranks and crank but doesn't start, runs perfectly if push started.
08-08-2010, 06:45 PM
#1
Car cranks and crank but doesn't start, runs perfectly if push started.
Hey all,
I thought id post this thread up while searching for my cure...
My Maxima as it sits right now will crank and crank and crank without any start. It wasn't like this before, this issue progressively got worse and worse until it wouldn't start at all. This happened over a months period.
I have changed Cam sensor, crank sensor (middle of the block, in front of the radiator), and have not swapped out the other crank sensor beside the oil pan. I used these sensor from my previous motor which where good when pulled out. I'll replace the crank sensor by the oil pan tomorrow but something tells me its OK (reads 570 ohms). Can coils cause a crank but no start unless push started? RPM when cranking don't go above 200-300 rpms, not enough to get the car going at all...
I have no clue where to start, Battery is good, alternator charges the battery when driving (have voltage gauge), starter turns over the motor. Maybe I'm not getting enough power to the spark-plugs?
Damn...
I thought id post this thread up while searching for my cure...
My Maxima as it sits right now will crank and crank and crank without any start. It wasn't like this before, this issue progressively got worse and worse until it wouldn't start at all. This happened over a months period.
I have changed Cam sensor, crank sensor (middle of the block, in front of the radiator), and have not swapped out the other crank sensor beside the oil pan. I used these sensor from my previous motor which where good when pulled out. I'll replace the crank sensor by the oil pan tomorrow but something tells me its OK (reads 570 ohms). Can coils cause a crank but no start unless push started? RPM when cranking don't go above 200-300 rpms, not enough to get the car going at all...
I have no clue where to start, Battery is good, alternator charges the battery when driving (have voltage gauge), starter turns over the motor. Maybe I'm not getting enough power to the spark-plugs?
Damn...
08-08-2010, 07:50 PM
#2
Check your grounds, disconnect them clean them and reconnect. Check the positive the same way. I think you have a bad connection and your starter is drawing all the amps and not leaving enough for ignition. That's just my best guess.
08-08-2010, 08:40 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 242
That sound like what would be the problem... I would check all grounds connection and clean them... Bad grounds can cause alot of problems throughout your electrical system, sensors, etc...
08-08-2010, 08:49 PM
#4
i have the exact same problem with only that i have already checked and cleaned all my grounds.. im checking my coils either tonight or sometime tomorrow but my car will only crank when i press in on the key kinda hard.. could it possibly be my ignition switch is bad? sorry for semi-thread jacking
08-08-2010, 10:15 PM
#6
Cleaning the grounds, and there are many of them, seems like a total shot in the dark. I would consider changing the ignition switch. There is a signal called start that runs from the ignition switch through Fuse # 33 (7.5 Amp) to the Engine Control Module.
I may try this tomorrow, but my guess is that if this start signal was not provided to the ECM the engine will crank all day long but will not start. I can check this by removing fuse #33 and trying to start the car.
I'm sure there are other possibilities that could cause this problem but checking fuse#33 and/or changing the ignition switch is relatively easy and cheap so I would probably give it a shot if this was happening to my Maxima.
Also if the OP has a 99 maybe it's a programmable key issue?
I may try this tomorrow, but my guess is that if this start signal was not provided to the ECM the engine will crank all day long but will not start. I can check this by removing fuse #33 and trying to start the car.
I'm sure there are other possibilities that could cause this problem but checking fuse#33 and/or changing the ignition switch is relatively easy and cheap so I would probably give it a shot if this was happening to my Maxima.
Also if the OP has a 99 maybe it's a programmable key issue?
Last edited by Nopike; 08-08-2010 at 10:17 PM.
08-09-2010, 06:32 AM
#7
I have a 1998, I checked fuse #33 (it isn't blown) but I can put a test light on it and see when I crank if it gets a signal going through it.
There is one ground I know off that is dirty/corroded and is on the starter side. So I'll go ahead and give that a try and check the signal from fuse #33.
There is one ground I know off that is dirty/corroded and is on the starter side. So I'll go ahead and give that a try and check the signal from fuse #33.
08-09-2010, 08:46 AM
#8
Alright, so the POS still doesn't start...
Things tried:
Replaced Cam and both crank sensors
Cleaned ground cable from battery to block
Placed a test signal on fuse #33 (flickers when car is being cranked)
Noticed another issue with the car though. The front exhaust manifold has a small hole and you can see the exhaust come out. The gasket needs to be replaced but I highly doubt this would cause the car not to start.
Next thing I might do is replace this starter....Just don't know what else to look for...
Things tried:
Replaced Cam and both crank sensors
Cleaned ground cable from battery to block
Placed a test signal on fuse #33 (flickers when car is being cranked)
Noticed another issue with the car though. The front exhaust manifold has a small hole and you can see the exhaust come out. The gasket needs to be replaced but I highly doubt this would cause the car not to start.
Next thing I might do is replace this starter....Just don't know what else to look for...
08-09-2010, 11:15 AM
#9
Alright, so the POS still doesn't start...
Things tried:
Replaced Cam and both crank sensors
Cleaned ground cable from battery to block
Placed a test signal on fuse #33 (flickers when car is being cranked)
Noticed another issue with the car though. The front exhaust manifold has a small hole and you can see the exhaust come out. The gasket needs to be replaced but I highly doubt this would cause the car not to start.
Next thing I might do is replace this starter....Just don't know what else to look for...
Things tried:
Replaced Cam and both crank sensors
Cleaned ground cable from battery to block
Placed a test signal on fuse #33 (flickers when car is being cranked)
Noticed another issue with the car though. The front exhaust manifold has a small hole and you can see the exhaust come out. The gasket needs to be replaced but I highly doubt this would cause the car not to start.
Next thing I might do is replace this starter....Just don't know what else to look for...
08-09-2010, 02:30 PM
#10
Alright, so the POS still doesn't start...
Things tried:
Replaced Cam and both crank sensors
Cleaned ground cable from battery to block
Placed a test signal on fuse #33 (flickers when car is being cranked)
Noticed another issue with the car though. The front exhaust manifold has a small hole and you can see the exhaust come out. The gasket needs to be replaced but I highly doubt this would cause the car not to start.
Next thing I might do is replace this starter....Just don't know what else to look for...
Things tried:
Replaced Cam and both crank sensors
Cleaned ground cable from battery to block
Placed a test signal on fuse #33 (flickers when car is being cranked)
Noticed another issue with the car though. The front exhaust manifold has a small hole and you can see the exhaust come out. The gasket needs to be replaced but I highly doubt this would cause the car not to start.
Next thing I might do is replace this starter....Just don't know what else to look for...
08-09-2010, 02:58 PM
#11
Its the only ground that had corrosion...well the only one I saw. The one that's on the transmission was replaced when we did the swap.
The wires seem to be connected and untouched, I checked all 3 sensor for cam/crank.
I'm going to replace the spark plugs tonight/check for compression (might aswell)
Again this was a degrading issue. From perfect start to, crank crank, to 3 cranks, then 4 cranks, then random amount of cranks. Doesn't matter if the motor is hot or cold.
I noticed that it didn't start as fast when I re-gapped the spark-plugs to help stop spark blowout when the meth kit kicked in.
I'll see if it helps tonight...
The wires seem to be connected and untouched, I checked all 3 sensor for cam/crank.
I'm going to replace the spark plugs tonight/check for compression (might aswell)
Again this was a degrading issue. From perfect start to, crank crank, to 3 cranks, then 4 cranks, then random amount of cranks. Doesn't matter if the motor is hot or cold.
I noticed that it didn't start as fast when I re-gapped the spark-plugs to help stop spark blowout when the meth kit kicked in.
I'll see if it helps tonight...
08-09-2010, 03:15 PM
#12
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Location: Alexandria, VA, & Central Jersey
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forgive me if i'm wrong, if the car runs perfectly when its pushed started, and doesn't start when you try to start it using the starter. Isn't the problem in the starter? before you drive yourself crazy, take it out and get it tested. If it's bad, get a new one. if the starter is good, come back and try to start tracing problems. but till then, why not test the starter?
08-09-2010, 03:41 PM
#13
I have a spare starter that I brought with me that I know is good. The reason i'm doing spark plugs first is because the mechanic that is helping me doesn't believe its the starter, that and its about time to swap them with new ones. I Think the starter is the issue, but I'm not the experienced one so...
In any case Starter is next after spark-plugs.
In any case Starter is next after spark-plugs.
08-10-2010, 08:41 AM
#15
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I have a spare starter that I brought with me that I know is good. The reason i'm doing spark plugs first is because the mechanic that is helping me doesn't believe its the starter, that and its about time to swap them with new ones. I Think the starter is the issue, but I'm not the experienced one so...
In any case Starter is next after spark-plugs.
In any case Starter is next after spark-plugs.
and if you put in the cheap sparkplugs, take them out, they're useless. Trust me, i've went that route. Until you change the starter, you're not going to get much help.
08-10-2010, 10:33 AM
#16
ok, first of all, i'm not trying to be mean, jackass, smartass, whatever you want to call it. but i'm just a lil frustrated. if you can push start a car when its fine, but can't start it with a starter. ITS USUALLY THE STARTER!!!! or something involved with the starter. Changing the starter takes almost the same amount of time as spark plugs. Mind you, if you are using the correct spark plugs, they're like $12 each. thats $72 in spark plugs. You're just wasting a lot of unnecessary amount of money. If you can do spark plugs, you can change the starter. Changing the starter takes no more than an hour and half including cleanup. Before you keep on spending money, just replace the starter. I'm not saying that it IS the problem, but i'm 95% sure it is. Otherwise, there's no way you can push start the car!!!
and if you put in the cheap sparkplugs, take them out, they're useless. Trust me, i've went that route. Until you change the starter, you're not going to get much help.
and if you put in the cheap sparkplugs, take them out, they're useless. Trust me, i've went that route. Until you change the starter, you're not going to get much help.
good thing I got these plugs when they first came out and got them for $45 for all 6.
08-10-2010, 12:16 PM
#17
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yea, thats what i thought. So i put in those cheaper plugs. My car started acting all weird after like 5-6k, so i pulled the plugs, and wow, they were done. worse than the plugs i pulled out after 70k. SO i ordered from dave b, and yea....they were considered "cheap" for like $11-$12 a piece
08-10-2010, 01:54 PM
#18
add a ground i had the same issue this solved my problem the starter grounds its self through the transmission if you did a clutch job or swap and did sand the mating surface of the engine and transmission it can cuz a poor ground and a no start issue http://forums.maxima.org/picture.php...ictureid=14855
http://forums.maxima.org/picture.php...ictureid=14854
maxpeed96se had the same issue he could push start it fine find his thread on it
http://forums.maxima.org/picture.php...ictureid=14854
maxpeed96se had the same issue he could push start it fine find his thread on it
Last edited by luke95gxe; 08-10-2010 at 02:04 PM.
08-10-2010, 02:16 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
sounds like the engine isnt getting enough fuel when trying to start.
i had a similar problem when i replaced the clutch on my car. i thought it was the grounds or the sensors. see if your fuel pressure regulator is leaking by letting your car run with the fuel pump fuse pulled. let the lines run out of gas by letting the car just stall, so you remove the fuel in the lines and then:
- unplug negative battery terminal
- remove the intake (just from the throttle body to the air filter)
- unscrew the 4 12mm throttle body bolts and unplug the 2 sensors. this is how i did it because if you dont remove the air intake or the throttle body, its kind of hard to get to the 2 screws on the fuel pressure regulator and what is involved in the next steps.
- you do not need to remove any of the 3 lines that are under the throttle body (you can if you want), just pull the throttle body down and out of the way of the fuel pressure regulator. removing the whole throttle body makes it a lot easier and you can clean it when its off.
- once you have a clear shot of the fuel pressure regulator, take off the vacuum line (the smaller one). if there is fuel that comes out of it, like there was in mine then its faulty. get a new one. they are 69.99 or 64.99 at autozone. be careful of the autozone one though, you will need a new clamp for the gas line because the nipple on the replacement is not as wide as the original. youll also need a new longer vacuum hose as the angle on the replacement regulator is out to the right, not pointing straight down as on the original. didnt realize this until i went to hook up the hoses, good thing i had clamps and vacuum hoses to spare.
- put everything back together and try to start her up. mine took 3 tries then started. drove the car a little bit, turned it off and when i started it again no problems.
now my car idles better, has better throttle response and there isnt anymore lag or hesitation when i get on it.
and before you try and remove the regulator, use liquid wrench or wd40 or something to soak the 2 screws that hold it on. otherwise you are deff going to strip the head of the screw, and youll have to drill the screws out and thats no fun.
all in all it took me 30 mins to change this. just make sure you have all the necessary parts and tools and you let those screws soak so they break free no problem.
those of you that have the 3 or 4 turns or long starts, i bet this is your problem as well. the regulator is the last thing i replaced ( i added 3 grounds, cleaned all the ground surfaces, cleaned and tested all sensors, replaced the fuel pump which wasnt working and the fuel filter, replaced ignition, replaced starter, cleaned iacv and throttle body which were pretty clean to begin with, checked spark plugs. nothing worked. now my car starts like it did before i even had a problem!
hope this helps
i had a similar problem when i replaced the clutch on my car. i thought it was the grounds or the sensors. see if your fuel pressure regulator is leaking by letting your car run with the fuel pump fuse pulled. let the lines run out of gas by letting the car just stall, so you remove the fuel in the lines and then:
- unplug negative battery terminal
- remove the intake (just from the throttle body to the air filter)
- unscrew the 4 12mm throttle body bolts and unplug the 2 sensors. this is how i did it because if you dont remove the air intake or the throttle body, its kind of hard to get to the 2 screws on the fuel pressure regulator and what is involved in the next steps.
- you do not need to remove any of the 3 lines that are under the throttle body (you can if you want), just pull the throttle body down and out of the way of the fuel pressure regulator. removing the whole throttle body makes it a lot easier and you can clean it when its off.
- once you have a clear shot of the fuel pressure regulator, take off the vacuum line (the smaller one). if there is fuel that comes out of it, like there was in mine then its faulty. get a new one. they are 69.99 or 64.99 at autozone. be careful of the autozone one though, you will need a new clamp for the gas line because the nipple on the replacement is not as wide as the original. youll also need a new longer vacuum hose as the angle on the replacement regulator is out to the right, not pointing straight down as on the original. didnt realize this until i went to hook up the hoses, good thing i had clamps and vacuum hoses to spare.
- put everything back together and try to start her up. mine took 3 tries then started. drove the car a little bit, turned it off and when i started it again no problems.
now my car idles better, has better throttle response and there isnt anymore lag or hesitation when i get on it.
and before you try and remove the regulator, use liquid wrench or wd40 or something to soak the 2 screws that hold it on. otherwise you are deff going to strip the head of the screw, and youll have to drill the screws out and thats no fun.
all in all it took me 30 mins to change this. just make sure you have all the necessary parts and tools and you let those screws soak so they break free no problem.
those of you that have the 3 or 4 turns or long starts, i bet this is your problem as well. the regulator is the last thing i replaced ( i added 3 grounds, cleaned all the ground surfaces, cleaned and tested all sensors, replaced the fuel pump which wasnt working and the fuel filter, replaced ignition, replaced starter, cleaned iacv and throttle body which were pretty clean to begin with, checked spark plugs. nothing worked. now my car starts like it did before i even had a problem!
hope this helps
08-10-2010, 02:26 PM
#20
08-10-2010, 03:03 PM
#21
ok, first of all, i'm not trying to be mean, jackass, smartass, whatever you want to call it. but i'm just a lil frustrated. if you can push start a car when its fine, but can't start it with a starter. ITS USUALLY THE STARTER!!!! or something involved with the starter. Changing the starter takes almost the same amount of time as spark plugs. Mind you, if you are using the correct spark plugs, they're like $12 each. thats $72 in spark plugs. You're just wasting a lot of unnecessary amount of money. If you can do spark plugs, you can change the starter. Changing the starter takes no more than an hour and half including cleanup. Before you keep on spending money, just replace the starter. I'm not saying that it IS the problem, but i'm 95% sure it is. Otherwise, there's no way you can push start the car!!!
and if you put in the cheap sparkplugs, take them out, they're useless. Trust me, i've went that route. Until you change the starter, you're not going to get much help.
and if you put in the cheap sparkplugs, take them out, they're useless. Trust me, i've went that route. Until you change the starter, you're not going to get much help.
08-10-2010, 03:34 PM
#22
08-10-2010, 07:42 PM
#24
I don't believe the start signal should flicker. It should be a constant 12vdc when the key is on start so should be no flickering of your test light. If I get a chance I'm going to put my voltmeter on that signal.
I realize what I am suggesting is probably a long shot, but I try to eliminate the easy and cheap stuff before I move on to something complicated and expensive.
I realize what I am suggesting is probably a long shot, but I try to eliminate the easy and cheap stuff before I move on to something complicated and expensive.
Last edited by Nopike; 08-12-2010 at 08:11 AM.
08-10-2010, 08:53 PM
#25
+1. either that, or the starter wire on your ign switch is burnt out, maybe needs to be re soldered back on the ign switch, has something grounding it out, etc. test that wire with a dmm to see if your ign switch gets the 12v upon start.
08-11-2010, 09:27 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bolton, CT
Posts: 199
Based on my recent experience, I would say Nopike is leading you in the right direction though if the the wire he suggests is getting voltage but not enough voltage, it could be your battery. Try just connecting up a jumper battery and see if that does the trick.
My remote starter wouldn't start the car to save it's life but I found that I needed to apply power to the Red/Blue wire at the ignition switch, which I believe is the one Nopike is refering to. Without that connection the car will crank and crank and might start eventually if the battery doesn't die first.
Either way, it's most likely your ignition switch. As a test you could apply power directly to the Red/Blue wire with a cliplead then try starting the car.
My remote starter wouldn't start the car to save it's life but I found that I needed to apply power to the Red/Blue wire at the ignition switch, which I believe is the one Nopike is refering to. Without that connection the car will crank and crank and might start eventually if the battery doesn't die first.
Either way, it's most likely your ignition switch. As a test you could apply power directly to the Red/Blue wire with a cliplead then try starting the car.
Last edited by jdooley; 08-11-2010 at 09:31 PM.
08-12-2010, 03:36 PM
#28
I changed the terminal that connects to the (-) of the battery. Made a new connection from the new terminal to the frame. From the frame to the transmission I added 2 new grounds. The car started 4 times in a row. I think that's a good sign 
Now to clean up the damn 00VI and make her look nice and tidy
Now to clean up the damn 00VI and make her look nice and tidy
08-12-2010, 03:48 PM
#29
any smoke coming out of the exhaust when u try and start it?
for the grounds just go on ebay and buy one of those universal grounding kits, they cost like $10 shipped. I doubt thats the problem but it might help.
for the grounds just go on ebay and buy one of those universal grounding kits, they cost like $10 shipped. I doubt thats the problem but it might help.
08-12-2010, 04:25 PM
#30
09-05-2010, 02:07 PM
#32
Well, the problem is back!
I have added the following:
0 Gauge wire from battery to ground,
2 separate grounding points to transmission,
Added ground to timing chain cover
Car will crank all day long, will not start. We can push start it and at the point will start right away. Removed my EU and just used the stock ECU, no go. EU is back in (made my own harness) Checked for spark by removing a coil and it was ok.
We also removed 3 coils and 3 spark plugs from the front of the car. You would think the motor would spin faster but it didn't really (as we tried cranking). We have fuel, spark. All sensors are good. CKPS, CPS and the other one by the crank pulley.
I'm going to change the starter tomorrow. That is the last thing on the to do list. Everything else checks out.
Any suggestions at what else I can try? Push starts fine, drives fine, can drive for hours and the car will not crank over once you shut it of and try to start it back up.
How fast (RPM) wise should the starter provide to get the car going?
I have added the following:
0 Gauge wire from battery to ground,
2 separate grounding points to transmission,
Added ground to timing chain cover
Car will crank all day long, will not start. We can push start it and at the point will start right away. Removed my EU and just used the stock ECU, no go. EU is back in (made my own harness) Checked for spark by removing a coil and it was ok.
We also removed 3 coils and 3 spark plugs from the front of the car. You would think the motor would spin faster but it didn't really (as we tried cranking). We have fuel, spark. All sensors are good. CKPS, CPS and the other one by the crank pulley.
I'm going to change the starter tomorrow. That is the last thing on the to do list. Everything else checks out.
Any suggestions at what else I can try? Push starts fine, drives fine, can drive for hours and the car will not crank over once you shut it of and try to start it back up.
How fast (RPM) wise should the starter provide to get the car going?
09-05-2010, 05:06 PM
#33
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: temple hills, md
Posts: 453
the ignition switch, not the key cylinder seems to be the problem here. it may be worn or loose from the back of the key cyl. just my .02. take a look, & it's not that costly for just the switch w/o the cylinder.
09-07-2010, 12:25 PM
#34
The ignition switch was fine (checked it out this morning). I put my other starter on the car and well she fired right up. There maybe something inside the other starter thats rusy so i'll open it up and make sure everythign is good. I'll also get it checked out. For now I can say all is good.
09-07-2010, 04:30 PM
#35
The ignition switch was fine (checked it out this morning). I put my other starter on the car and well she fired right up. There maybe something inside the other starter thats rusy so i'll open it up and make sure everythign is good. I'll also get it checked out. For now I can say all is good.
11-26-2010, 09:43 AM
#40